Project Onboard Air: York Compressor

[NaterGator]

Got part numbers for those NAPA hose barbs & such?!
Thanks

I think I can dig 'em out somewhere. Let me snoop around for the boxes in my truck, I think they are there. If not they are in their parts catalog, just have them look the stuff up in the book. IIRC they were listed as like "no.3 fittings" or something a page over from the normal york stuff.

 

[EricG]

I think I can dig 'em out somewhere. Let me snoop around for the boxes in my truck, I think they are there. If not they are in their parts catalog, just have them look the stuff up in the book. IIRC they were listed as like "no.3 fittings" or something a page over from the normal york stuff.

Ok, thanks for looking!

If you can't find it - how did you go about finding it in the first place? In my experience, showing up without a part # or year/make/model is just asking for a deer-in-the-headlights stare. So asking for "hose barb fitting that will work on a york compressor pulled off an old ford van in a junkyard" isn't likely to be productive!

 

[lumpdog]

With the Slee mount you wouldn't be able to do the single belt system because you would not get enough engagement of the A/C compressor and the top of the belt would hit the water pump pulley. My design allows for second battery placement.

Also, I was a bit worried about having the York hanging off the head, but since my bracket is much shorter, there is less leverage, and the mount is rock solid, so know worries. Oh, and I had to pull off the York last weekend because I didn't ever check the oil...... So I fixed it, blocked the oil passage, and added some synthetic air compressor oil to it and all is well.

 

[lumpdog]

I might be able to get a local fab shop to make some of my mounts if there is enough interest.

 

[theferg]

Definitely interested.

 

[Ruadhrigh]

interested also, but may be limited by cost...

 

[lumpdog]

Ok, I will check to see what I can do for you guys.

 

[ranma21]

Hey, I may be interested as well. Keep us update

 

[p8nt]

interested also, but may be limited by cost...

x a billion....

 

[EricG]

I might be able to get a local fab shop to make some of my mounts if there is enough interest.

Put me down on the headcount also - I like this alot better then adding another pulley & belt.

 

[lumpdog]

Perfect then, I will find something out by this weekend then.

 

[AppleTech]

I might be able to get a local fab shop to make some of my mounts if there is enough interest.

doh! count me in as well!

 

[theferg]

Appletech, Any chance you could share the name of the place where you picked up your York?--the one where they have oodles and oodles of Volvos....

-Ferg-

 

[AppleTech]

Appletech, Any chance you could share the name of the place where you picked up your York?--the one where they have oodles and oodles of Volvos....

-Ferg-

PM'd

-Phil

 

[AppleTech]

You are going to want a coalescing filter before your manifold because the yorks blow by alot of oil, and it becomes ALOT of oil at higher revs. Not to mention it will keep moisture and dirt down in the system and protect the switch, etc. It will also keep you from having to open the bung on your tank as often.

OK, so here's my current schematic - let me know if you guys see any potential issues with it! Your feedback is much appreciated since this is my first foray into any type of air system.
QUOTE]

You won't be happy with that design. As mentioned, the Yorks blow copious amounts of oil/water/poop. Have a looksee at my design on my website. I put the tank first in line to collect the liquids and solids, followed by the coalescing filter to remove the airborne poop. That feeds the regulator and then out to the system.

So take a look at Rev 1 - I changed the flow of air:

Compressor -> Check Valve -> .5 gallon "gunk tank" -> Filter -> 2.5G main tank -> Air Manifold -> etc.

I thought using a small tank would be nice because it would be easy to dismount and clean occasionally instead of undoing the whole main tank. Not sure if this will cause any pressure issues? I assume no, as long as it is the same max PSI as the main tank?

Also, a regulator was mentioned - what is the need for this? Any thoughts appreciated here - as I'm just learning this stuff

Thanks,
Phil

 

[jonheld]

No real need for 2 tanks. I drain mine 2 or 3 times a season and empty the bowl on the coalescing filter at the same time. No big deal. One thing to keep in mind when hooking all this up is that many air tanks have several ports to choose from. Keep the main output from the tank as high as possible. This lets gravity help keep the solids/liquids down in the tank and puts less of a load on the filter.

I use a regulator to bring the tank pressure (150 PSI) down to a usable level for air tools (90 psi), filling tires (70 psi), inflating mattresses or toys (20-40 psi).

If you're going to use this air system for air lockers, that pressure should be kept as low as possible to give reliable locking. This will insure the seals in the diffs last forever. ARB specs between 70 and 90 PSI, but the pressure switch that they use is not always calibrated properly. I replaced mine years ago after I put a gauge on it and saw it was way over 90. I run just on the high side of 74 IIRC, but it's been a while since I checked that.

 

[AppleTech]

No real need for 2 tanks. I drain mine 2 or 3 times a season and empty the bowl on the coalescing filter at the same time. No big deal. One thing to keep in mind when hooking all this up is that many air tanks have several ports to choose from. Keep the main output from the tank as high as possible. This lets gravity help keep the solids/liquids down in the tank and puts less of a load on the filter.

I use a regulator to bring the tank pressure (150 PSI) down to a usable level for air tools (90 psi), filling tires (70 psi), inflating mattresses or toys (20-40 psi).

If you're going to use this air system for air lockers, that pressure should be kept as low as possible to give reliable locking. This will insure the seals in the diffs last forever. ARB specs between 70 and 90 PSI, but the pressure switch that they use is not always calibrated properly. I replaced mine years ago after I put a gauge on it and saw it was way over 90. I run just on the high side of 74 IIRC, but it's been a while since I checked that.

OK - makes sense. What is the danger with filling up tires with the full load?

Thanks,
Phil

 

[jonheld]

LOL, no danger. I use a 4 way manifold with a gauge to fill my tires. I can't keep the locking tire chuck on the fill port above 70 or 80. It blows right off. Takes slightly longer to fill my tires, but it stays put while I do other things as I air up. I have a better system in mind. When I have nothing better to do I'll get on it.

 

[lumpdog]

My compressor turns on and off at 90/125 psi. Most shops run 150 psi for air tools and tires air ups, at least all the shops I have worked at have..

 

[dgranth]

Lumpdog - Elegant setup... I might actually have a reason to get that York out of the back of the garage...