Project - Not so Nice (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter S4Cruiser
- Start date
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Like Jason said, you don't have a crazy long travel setup, so the shop can predict how much compression/extension you'll need. I can't recall, are you shackle reversed up front or no? That's the only thing that will have an impact on the measurement.
No, they give you the tube, slip, and yokes, but you have to weld it together yourself
Yes, flange to flange, as specified when ordered.
Given this, make sure to tell them that, so you'll need extra room on compression. Request a long slip joint as well.
fourtrax
SILVER Star
fricking sweet
Absolutely badass John!
Big spacers. Looking forward to your wiring
S4Cruiser
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- Thread starter
- #510
Big spacers. Looking forward to your wiring
Agreed in the spacers. I ordered them a long time ago when I was naive. Spidertrax only has this size available and I bought them to make the TR bead locks fit.
Now that I realize how wheel back spacing works, how the wheels fit and what space is needed for the disc brakes, I have the facility of knowledge to get some that are not huge.
Probably getting the trailgear ones in 1" but need to measure first.
NCFJ
Supporting Vendor
I love this build, looking great Jon!
S4Cruiser
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- Thread starter
- #513
Day 2 = rerouting some of the work done on day 1, finally realizing the harness isn't supposed to have this one brown wire even though the instructions say it should and being reminded this fxxxing blows. My goal for day 3 is to maintain a level of patience...
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S4Cruiser
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #517
While waiting on a couple wiring goodies to be delivered I refreshed the 60 series igniter and mount then added a new oem coil. Also dismantled, cleaned, painted then installed the blower motor and housing. I've got a new 50w 1ohm resistor in the mail that I'll replace the original one with. The commuter for the blower motor was pretty dis colored so I chucked it in a drill and cleaned up with some 600 then 1500 grit sandpaper. The brushes were still really long so I left them alone.
Also dismantled, cleaned and painted the heater. Still need to muratic acid soak the core before reassembling.
Also dismantled, cleaned and painted the heater. Still need to muratic acid soak the core before reassembling.
S4Cruiser
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- Thread starter
- #518
More fun stuff...not the wiring part though... I worked almost constantly for 3 days but feel like I'm moving at a snails pace. Obviously not gonna be ready for LR and if I don't speed it up then there won't be leaves on the trees once I'm done.
OBA setup is close to being done. Had to make a couple brackets which took some time. One for the coalescing filter and one for a 2.5 gallon tank. I was able to tuck the tank up super high. The rear of a 40 was made for this Viair tank.
I ran the air line inside the frame and plan to sleeve it with some berry compliant nylon webbing to protect it from abrasion.
Need to pick up a couple right angle brass bits and figure out where to mount the secondary filter/regulator. Finally add a quick connects 1 - rear and 1 - front.
OBA setup is close to being done. Had to make a couple brackets which took some time. One for the coalescing filter and one for a 2.5 gallon tank. I was able to tuck the tank up super high. The rear of a 40 was made for this Viair tank.
I ran the air line inside the frame and plan to sleeve it with some berry compliant nylon webbing to protect it from abrasion.
Need to pick up a couple right angle brass bits and figure out where to mount the secondary filter/regulator. Finally add a quick connects 1 - rear and 1 - front.
S4Cruiser
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #519
I did my best on going overboard with the wiring...no wonder it takes me forever to finish
I fabbed up a mount for an auxiliary fuse panel in the engine bay. It uses the 3 bolts from the no longer needed vacuum gadget thingamabob. It sits about 2.5 inches off the firewall and will hide some wire routing. The fuse panel includes (5) 5 pin fused relays and 5 fused accessory slots. I've got it wired to ACC on the ignition via a separate 70 relay. Currently have a breaker in b/w the panel and battery so to easily trip it and work on it vs disconnecting the battery.
Also have a ground bar that will be used for all engine bay grounding needs vs grounding s*** here and there. More work for sure but it will be clean...ill have all the grounds sheathed together too. I'll un mount everything and paint the panel once I've mounted everything.
Wires for in can switches are run under the truck and up into the cab near the trans tunnel. I'll have (2) 4 switch panels mounted in a Tuffy center console with a volt meter and usb plugs for charging stuff. Decided to include the volt meter since I'm not using the stock ammeter since I upgraded to a 80 amp alternator and the later style cluster mounted 50 amp meter is poor at best. It'll just be for looks.
I fabbed up a mount for an auxiliary fuse panel in the engine bay. It uses the 3 bolts from the no longer needed vacuum gadget thingamabob. It sits about 2.5 inches off the firewall and will hide some wire routing. The fuse panel includes (5) 5 pin fused relays and 5 fused accessory slots. I've got it wired to ACC on the ignition via a separate 70 relay. Currently have a breaker in b/w the panel and battery so to easily trip it and work on it vs disconnecting the battery.
Also have a ground bar that will be used for all engine bay grounding needs vs grounding s*** here and there. More work for sure but it will be clean...ill have all the grounds sheathed together too. I'll un mount everything and paint the panel once I've mounted everything.
Wires for in can switches are run under the truck and up into the cab near the trans tunnel. I'll have (2) 4 switch panels mounted in a Tuffy center console with a volt meter and usb plugs for charging stuff. Decided to include the volt meter since I'm not using the stock ammeter since I upgraded to a 80 amp alternator and the later style cluster mounted 50 amp meter is poor at best. It'll just be for looks.
S4Cruiser
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #520
Also for the York, I ended up plugging the oil lubricating hole. I didn't want to deal with all the extra oil these spit out.
There's two ways to do it, the easy or hard way...I chose the easy way. The hard way requires taking off the pulley, clutch and shaft seal parts. Then tap the oil passage making sure you don't get aluminum shavings in the pump while not destroying seals. The easy way requires just removing the top of the pump and plugging the other end of the passage with a machine screw.
One thing to remember is the oil passage also serves to bleed pressure from the pump when the clutch is not engaged, equalling easy starting next time it's engaged. Typically you don't want to release the pressure of an air system when using a tank, etc. One way to allow the pressure to bleed from the pump but not the rest of the system is via a load genie. It acts like a check valve but bleeds pressure in ne direction. Pretty nifty gadget. I installed one on the pump side of my coalescing filter and then a check valve b/w the filter and manifold.
Hoping it all functions as described.
Also, the suction and discharge ports on the top of a York are funky threads. I think they are bspt types...regardless they are not npt. One option is to order some expensive ass fittings from kilby or other venders. The other is to just slightly drill out the inside of the ports (they are male fittings off the shelf) and tap the suction side 3/8 npt and the discharge side 1/4 npt. Easy peezy.
There's two ways to do it, the easy or hard way...I chose the easy way. The hard way requires taking off the pulley, clutch and shaft seal parts. Then tap the oil passage making sure you don't get aluminum shavings in the pump while not destroying seals. The easy way requires just removing the top of the pump and plugging the other end of the passage with a machine screw.
One thing to remember is the oil passage also serves to bleed pressure from the pump when the clutch is not engaged, equalling easy starting next time it's engaged. Typically you don't want to release the pressure of an air system when using a tank, etc. One way to allow the pressure to bleed from the pump but not the rest of the system is via a load genie. It acts like a check valve but bleeds pressure in ne direction. Pretty nifty gadget. I installed one on the pump side of my coalescing filter and then a check valve b/w the filter and manifold.
Hoping it all functions as described.
Also, the suction and discharge ports on the top of a York are funky threads. I think they are bspt types...regardless they are not npt. One option is to order some expensive ass fittings from kilby or other venders. The other is to just slightly drill out the inside of the ports (they are male fittings off the shelf) and tap the suction side 3/8 npt and the discharge side 1/4 npt. Easy peezy.
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