Looks like you tried to recess the PS box a little more. Was there a reason for this? Looks fairly easy. This mod is on my list. Thanks for the pics.
Project: "Not going to do a frame off" Frame Off (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter nicholastheczar
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- #162
The reason I wanted to recess it was to allow the sag gear box to clear and sit behind the frame rails. I don't know what kind of front bumper I am going to build so I didn't want to have to worry about a portion of my gear box sticking out past the frame.
Nick
- Thread starter
- #163
I put in a Griffen as well. It is pushed as far forward as I can get it and is a tight fit but after cutting the notches in my rad support, it fits really well. My hoses clear my fan with no problems and should work fine w/ my shroud, but I'll have to see how it fits once I get it finished.
thanks for the comments! It has indeed a lot of work but has been very rewarding and I have learned a TON of information. Can't wait to pull this thing out of the garage under its own power, and more importantly hope it stops under its own power!!
Nick
- Thread starter
- #164
My two steering u joints and DD shaft came in from Summit and I tried to fit my flaming river 36 spline shaft on my sag box and it doesn't fit!!1
I ordered a 3/4" 36 spline to 3/4" DD which was incorrect I found. What I needed was a 13/16" 36 spline to 3/4" DD, I was close but no cigar. So I called summit and ordered the correct u joint (which was the same one John Smith used in his sag conversion thread I just didn't pay attention!
) Borgeson 014940, Summit Part # BRG-014940. My Flaming River 1" DD to 3/4" DD column to shaft joint worked like a champ. I bought a 36" 3/4" flaming river DD steering shaft and it is plenty long, I will probably end up chopping off about 7" or so. I drilled some countersunk holes to allow the bolts on the u joints to sit in.
And a test fitting
I also picked up my rear driveshaft today from Automotive Driveline in Hurst. It took a little test fitting of the flanges before this thing was fabricated because I have the stock TC but a 78 rear diff, so my bolt pattern on my diff side is different. I measured about 18.5" inches from flange to flange.
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I also went by a hydraulic hose supply house today and picked up a different hose than my Napa 38001 for my rear soft brake line. I had them make me a hose w/ a fitting that will fit a standard 3/16" brake line on one end and a Metric 10 on the other end where it fits into my T on my rear axle. I also bought a new T and a few M10 to standard 3/16" fittings to adapt my new brake line. For future reference for anyone looking, the T is made by BrakeQuip and the part number is BQ91A. Here is a link to the product page: BrakeQuip Automotive Fittings; 3 Way Tube Tees
I mocked it up today and it looks like it is going to work like a champ! I'm waiting on some brake tabs to be cutout from my local fabricator. I'm having them CNC some little tombstones w/ a 5/8" hole in them for my hard and soft lines to meet. These will be welding on my axles.
I also finalized my design on my dash cutout and am also finalized a new cutout for where my ashtray goes. I am going to put some switches where my ashtray is but maintain the style of the ashtray. I'm anxious to see how it comes out.
Thats it for now. Just have to hurry up and wait for my new u joint and then measure for my pitman arm and drag link.
Nick
I ordered a 3/4" 36 spline to 3/4" DD which was incorrect I found. What I needed was a 13/16" 36 spline to 3/4" DD, I was close but no cigar. So I called summit and ordered the correct u joint (which was the same one John Smith used in his sag conversion thread I just didn't pay attention!
) Borgeson 014940, Summit Part # BRG-014940. My Flaming River 1" DD to 3/4" DD column to shaft joint worked like a champ. I bought a 36" 3/4" flaming river DD steering shaft and it is plenty long, I will probably end up chopping off about 7" or so. I drilled some countersunk holes to allow the bolts on the u joints to sit in.
And a test fitting
I also picked up my rear driveshaft today from Automotive Driveline in Hurst. It took a little test fitting of the flanges before this thing was fabricated because I have the stock TC but a 78 rear diff, so my bolt pattern on my diff side is different. I measured about 18.5" inches from flange to flange.
Compressed:
Extended:
I also went by a hydraulic hose supply house today and picked up a different hose than my Napa 38001 for my rear soft brake line. I had them make me a hose w/ a fitting that will fit a standard 3/16" brake line on one end and a Metric 10 on the other end where it fits into my T on my rear axle. I also bought a new T and a few M10 to standard 3/16" fittings to adapt my new brake line. For future reference for anyone looking, the T is made by BrakeQuip and the part number is BQ91A. Here is a link to the product page: BrakeQuip Automotive Fittings; 3 Way Tube Tees
I mocked it up today and it looks like it is going to work like a champ! I'm waiting on some brake tabs to be cutout from my local fabricator. I'm having them CNC some little tombstones w/ a 5/8" hole in them for my hard and soft lines to meet. These will be welding on my axles.
I also finalized my design on my dash cutout and am also finalized a new cutout for where my ashtray goes. I am going to put some switches where my ashtray is but maintain the style of the ashtray. I'm anxious to see how it comes out.
Thats it for now. Just have to hurry up and wait for my new u joint and then measure for my pitman arm and drag link.
Nick
I also picked up my rear driveshaft today from Automotive Driveline in Hurst. It took a little test fitting of the flanges before this thing was fabricated because I have the stock TC but a 78 rear diff, so my bolt pattern on my diff side is different. I measured about 18.5" inches from flange to flange.
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Nick
This the little place on 10? and how much did it run you? been wanting to get my rear driveline on the 60 redone... again...
- Thread starter
- #166
This the little place on 10? and how much did it run you? been wanting to get my rear driveline on the 60 redone... again...
Yup, thats the place. It was $300 plus tax so about $325 out the door. I still have to have my front shaft made now but am going to drive the cruiser up there for him to look at it because my 700R4 tranny pan is close to my front TC flange and want to make sure it is made to clear the pan.
Nick
- Thread starter
- #167
I fabbed up a fan shroud for my new flex a lite fan and clutch. This was a pain in the ass but I think it should work. I'm mounting the shroud to my old stock radiator bracket which has been widened to accommodate my 19"x 26" aluminum radiator. I used 22g sheet metal and cut / bent / welded it to fit. I'll post some pics of it installed.
Nick
Nick
Nick,
Jim from Downey and I talked about this clearance issue before. He has (or had) a small diameter flange/u-joint made for this purpose. Give him a PM, he may still have them.
Steve
Jim from Downey and I talked about this clearance issue before. He has (or had) a small diameter flange/u-joint made for this purpose. Give him a PM, he may still have them.
Steve
- Thread starter
- #169
OUCH! seems like alot... but it looks like he made it all from brand new stuff and didnt re use any of the old shaft at all. is that correct? if so then if he uses my ends and re tubes it it should be cheaper ish. last time i had it done (twisted stock rear shaft all up) it as like a bill.
HAHAHA...I was actually thinking that was a pretty GOOD price.
When I had the rear DC shaft built for my 62, it was 450.00. Quite a bit longer though...
Nick,
This is an AWESOME build thread man! Youre doing a GREAT JOB, and making this for a good reference. I cant wait to get back at my 40. The wife informed me that we were NOT going through another summer without the landscaping done...soooo, Im a landscaper for the time being...
This is an AWESOME build thread man! Youre doing a GREAT JOB, and making this for a good reference. I cant wait to get back at my 40. The wife informed me that we were NOT going through another summer without the landscaping done...soooo, Im a landscaper for the time being...
- Thread starter
- #174
Nick,
This is an AWESOME build thread man! Youre doing a GREAT JOB, and making this for a good reference. I cant wait to get back at my 40. The wife informed me that we were NOT going through another summer without the landscaping done...soooo, Im a landscaper for the time being...
I've been wondering where you went. First things first, make sure the
is happy! Should be able to get mine on the road, at least for a test run.I've got to get my pitman arm and new draglink.
Nick
I've been wondering where you went. First things first, make sure the
I've got to get my pitman arm and new draglink.
Nick
LOL...Just got back from an annual Death Valley run. Prep for that has taken a bunch of time running the stocker down there.
Where are you gonna source the pittman and drag link?
- Thread starter
- #176
Keith, I ended up talking w/ Mark at Marks Offroad and ordered his relay rod and pitman arm kit. I hope to get it tomorrow and test fit it. It is a 2.5" drop arm which will hopefully work well w/ my 4" lift and 2.5" extended shackles.
http://www.marksoffroad.net/1specials/1specials.html
Part #: 122-20M
Nick
- Thread starter
- #177
Major Milestone!!!
Well, today was the day. After 10 months of work, I pulled it out of the garage today under its own power, with brakes that work, and power steering. My first time to ever drive my FJ-40 and it was great! Few pics to prove it just in case certain people need proof!!
I also got one of my Iron Pig Offroad fender flares mounted, man these things are BEEFY and heavy to boot! I think it looks good. Had to trim some of my quarter panel, which I was going to have to do anyway. The passenger side is going to be interesting w/ the gas filler.
I also finished my Saginaw steering conversion. The pitman arm and relay rod from Marks Offroad seem like they will work perfect. I seem to have a good angle on my relay arm and my pitman arm missing my springs (but not by much).
I installed my fan shroud and have good clearance all the way around, about 3/4".
I also got my cutouts back for my center dash cluster and ashtray rocker switch cluster but was not happy w/ the tolerances. I called another guy who is going to cut it out with his laser setup, should be much better. Here is the ashtray mockup and what it will look like.
So, today was a very good day. First outting in the 40. I've got a few things I've got to do before I actually get it out on the road, like mufflers (had to where ear plugs while driving it) and a new windshield, but I've been waiting for this day for a while!!!
Nick
Well, today was the day. After 10 months of work, I pulled it out of the garage today under its own power, with brakes that work, and power steering. My first time to ever drive my FJ-40 and it was great! Few pics to prove it just in case certain people need proof!!
I also got one of my Iron Pig Offroad fender flares mounted, man these things are BEEFY and heavy to boot! I think it looks good. Had to trim some of my quarter panel, which I was going to have to do anyway. The passenger side is going to be interesting w/ the gas filler.
I also finished my Saginaw steering conversion. The pitman arm and relay rod from Marks Offroad seem like they will work perfect. I seem to have a good angle on my relay arm and my pitman arm missing my springs (but not by much).
I installed my fan shroud and have good clearance all the way around, about 3/4".
I also got my cutouts back for my center dash cluster and ashtray rocker switch cluster but was not happy w/ the tolerances. I called another guy who is going to cut it out with his laser setup, should be much better. Here is the ashtray mockup and what it will look like.
So, today was a very good day. First outting in the 40. I've got a few things I've got to do before I actually get it out on the road, like mufflers (had to where ear plugs while driving it) and a new windshield, but I've been waiting for this day for a while!!!
Nick
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Congrats!
awesome!!!!! there is nothing quite like driving YOUR FJ40 for the first time, and with all the work you put in it must feel even better. top notch work brother, can't wait to do donuts in the greenwood parking lot in that thing in july!
ok... gotta shut my computer down now and put it in a box... moving out tomorrow... don't worry, i'll have my laptop so you can feel free to post mas pictas.
ok... gotta shut my computer down now and put it in a box... moving out tomorrow... don't worry, i'll have my laptop so you can feel free to post mas pictas.
Congrats Nick. Awesome job getting it on the road. Love that clear windshield!
