Project: "Not going to do a frame off" Frame Off (1 Viewer)

[nicholastheczar]

So good to see you got it up and running finally Nick! Congrats!

Say, do you have a roller cam or a flat tappet cam? The reason I ask is that flat tappet cams need to be broken in right. I installed a new flat tappet cam in mine so I have to break it in as soon as the engine will start (a long ways out yet).

Soon as you are ready for a road trip come on up here and help me with mine

Steve

Thanks a bunch. I don't know what kind of cam I have. I called the shop that build the engine and they told me to change the oil at 400 miles and drive it "normal" driving conditions (can you be any more vague). So once it's driveable, I just do some easy driving around town and keep the RPMs on the lower end.

Road trip!

Nick

 

[srgould41]

What year is your engine Nick? I think they switched over to roller cams around '86. Roller cams don't have the breakin requirements that flat tappet cams do. You can ruin a flat tappet cam and lifters just by running at idle for 10 minutes or so on first startup. Everyone (and every manufacturer) has a different opinion on breakins, but generally on a flat tappet cam (pre '86) you start the engine and bring it up over 1,500 RPM immediately. Then run it for 30 minutes varrying the RPM from 1,500 to 3,000 (give or take a little). This hardens the cam lobes and lifters... Then go through the normal breakin oil changes.

Fun stuff. I rebuilt my carb too, so I will have fun just trying to get it to run the first time I start it.

Keep it up Nick. Your rig is looking real good.

Steve

 

[nicholastheczar]

What year is your engine Nick? I think they switched over to roller cams around '86. Roller cams don't have the breakin requirements that flat tappet cams do. You can ruin a flat tappet cam and lifters just by running at idle for 10 minutes or so on first startup. Everyone (and every manufacturer) has a different opinion on breakins, but generally on a flat tappet cam (pre '86) you start the engine and bring it up over 1,500 RPM immediately. Then run it for 30 minutes varrying the RPM from 1,500 to 3,000 (give or take a little). This hardens the cam lobes and lifters... Then go through the normal breakin oil changes.

Fun stuff. I rebuilt my carb too, so I will have fun just trying to get it to run the first time I start it.

Keep it up Nick. Your rig is looking real good.

Steve

I've been told the engine is from a '79 Chevy Pickup but was completely rebuilt May 09. I called the company again that built them and asked them about the breakin procedure on the cams. The mechanic said pretty much the same thing that the first guy I spoke with said. He said just change the oil early and run it like "normal". I guess it wouldn't hurt anything to break it in assuming it has flat tappet cams even if it has roller cams?

Nick

 

[srgould41]

I doubt they would have put in a roller cam since aftermarket roller cams and lifters are around $1k. I guess it is up to you. If you already ran the engine for a bit then it is kind of too late to worry about it. I have rebuilt a few engines in the past and never worried about cam breakin. However I never tore them down to inspect the valve train afterwards either. If you only ran the engine for a minute or two then I'd say run it for 30 and constantly vary the RPM's from 1,500 to 3,500. Can't hurt for sure.

If you go to Summit racing and then download the lit on any of their flat tappet cams you will see the breakin procedure listed. Don't forget the breakin oil or additives too.

 

[69 FJ40 ARIZONA]

what up

HEY NICK, its JAMES
i picked up your EZ wiring kit lol needless to say not very easy hahaa but it is comming along even though i have been busy with other things lately... wow you deff do good work nice thread puts mine 2 shame haha we are pretty much at the same stage in our build ups im gonna subscibe 2 yours and follow it keep it up man...

 

[nicholastheczar]

I doubt they would have put in a roller cam since aftermarket roller cams and lifters are around $1k. I guess it is up to you. If you already ran the engine for a bit then it is kind of too late to worry about it. I have rebuilt a few engines in the past and never worried about cam breakin. However I never tore them down to inspect the valve train afterwards either. If you only ran the engine for a minute or two then I'd say run it for 30 and constantly vary the RPM's from 1,500 to 3,500. Can't hurt for sure.

If you go to Summit racing and then download the lit on any of their flat tappet cams you will see the breakin procedure listed. Don't forget the breakin oil or additives too.

I'm going to pick up some break in additive tomorrow morning after work. Do I just add the additive to the oil that is already in the engine?

HEY NICK, its JAMES
i picked up your EZ wiring kit lol needless to say not very easy hahaa but it is comming along even though i have been busy with other things lately... wow you deff do good work nice thread puts mine 2 shame haha we are pretty much at the same stage in our build ups im gonna subscibe 2 yours and follow it keep it up man...

Ya, wiring isn't as EZ as they make it seem. But after doing it and finishing my wiring completely, I can now say that it is really not that bad. Just take a section at a time and pull wire. It makes the big task and breaks it into smaller, more manageable tasks. Keep me posted on how yours progresses.

Nick

 

[69 FJ40 ARIZONA]

sweet

thanks for the tips im sure ill figure it out lol i just added a link of my buildup thread on my user cp it should give a link to my build up below now

 

[CruisinFJ60]

ont he break in additive, just add it to the existing oil.

and where you put your front speakers if covering up the A/C!!! thats not good.

 

[nicholastheczar]

ont he break in additive, just add it to the existing oil.

and where you put your front speakers if covering up the A/C!!! thats not good.

What about the break in additive?

My A/C in the summer time is going to be no top! The kick vents still open up so I'll still get a little bit of cross flow.

Nick

 

[CruisinFJ60]

What about the break in additive?

My A/C in the summer time is going to be no top! The kick vents still open up so I'll still get a little bit of cross flow.

Nick

oh sorry, I was trying to say, on the break in additive, just add it to the existing oil.
as long as it isnt a synthetic. i wouldnt go synthetic till 3000 miles or so

 

[nicholastheczar]

oh sorry, I was trying to say, on the break in additive, just add it to the existing oil.
as long as it isnt a synthetic. i wouldnt go synthetic till 3000 miles or so

I talked with some guys at work that know there way around engines and they suggested I put in some Rotella 15w-40 w/ some GM EOS (Engine Oil Supplement) engine break in additive to make sure the engine has plenty of zinc in it. They said the rotella has more zinc than a standard oil and the EOS will also give the cam a good coating of zinc. I picked up some Rotella today and am going to try to go by my chevy dealer tomorrow and get some EOS.


Nick

 

[CruisinFJ60]

I actually did a bunch of research here not long ago when i was searching fo 80-90% of off the shelf oils as it is around the legal max just like all the others.

I did find that the VR1 valvoline racing oil has more than tripple the zinc as it is intended for a "off highway" usage due to the high zinc levels which can over time wear out a catalytic converter and when the zinc burns it produces higher emissions. but i run it in my bj now as it was diesel approved. they have it in 20/50, 15/40 10/30 and i think 5/30 as well as maybe a few others. they also offer it in a full synthetic, tho i run just the dino stuff.

I liked the rotella and ad run it in both my dodge and the BJ but i switched the dodge to castrol Fleet something or another due to hught zinc and was also a better all around oil not to mention i got it on sale, then in the BJ i went to the valvoline VR1 for the zinc content and since it was offered in a 20/50.

I like rotella and all and have used it for years, but if your looking for zinc there is much better stuff out there even for the street legal stuff there is better stuff.

there is more oil information on the web than i cared to know about and i got sucked into it and made my choice after a couple of weeks of non stop reading on it. either way im sure you will be fine, just letting you know what i have found and why i now use what i do.

 

[srgould41]

Nick,

Sorry for not replying earlier about the oil... You don't need to go overboard on the additives, but some breakin oil or racing oil (like CruisinFJ60 said) will work for the 30 minute breakin period. Then use a high zinc conventional oil, like Rotella, until a few thousand miles. I plan to switch to Mobile 1 synthetic, or another one like Amsoil or Castrol (there are a few to shoose from), as soon as I can. Since my engnine doesn't have O2 sensors or a catalytic I am not worried about fouling issues.

 

[nicholastheczar]

I actually did a bunch of research here not long ago when i was searching fo 80-90% of off the shelf oils as it is around the legal max just like all the others.

I did find that the VR1 valvoline racing oil has more than tripple the zinc as it is intended for a "off highway" usage due to the high zinc levels which can over time wear out a catalytic converter and when the zinc burns it produces higher emissions. but i run it in my bj now as it was diesel approved. they have it in 20/50, 15/40 10/30 and i think 5/30 as well as maybe a few others. they also offer it in a full synthetic, tho i run just the dino stuff.

I liked the rotella and ad run it in both my dodge and the BJ but i switched the dodge to castrol Fleet something or another due to hught zinc and was also a better all around oil not to mention i got it on sale, then in the BJ i went to the valvoline VR1 for the zinc content and since it was offered in a 20/50.

I like rotella and all and have used it for years, but if your looking for zinc there is much better stuff out there even for the street legal stuff there is better stuff.

there is more oil information on the web than i cared to know about and i got sucked into it and made my choice after a couple of weeks of non stop reading on it. either way im sure you will be fine, just letting you know what i have found and why i now use what i do.

Thanks Trent, I appreciate the info. Once I have the engine broken in, I plan on running some type of synthetic in it, maybe Mobil 1 or Royal Purple.

Nick

 

[CruisinFJ60]

im a royal purple and amsoil fan myself.

 

[nicholastheczar]

I got my new flex a lite 19" fan and new standard duty fan clutch installed and have about 1" clearance from the front of the clutch to the radiator.

I did have to notch my radiator support in order to allow my headlight buckets to clear my 26" wide radiator, but it works well and I put in some high density foam which should hold everything in tight.

I decided I am going to attempt to make my own shroud for my fan and after a huge mess w/ antifreeze everywhere, I had my radiator pulled out again.

I bought a piece of sheetmetal and started measuring everything and made a few cuts. I used my welding table as a straight edge to make my breaks in the sheet metal. I've got my upper and lower radiator hose holes cutout and am trying to figure out how I'm going to do the portion that will encircle the fan. I'm going to try and have about 0.5" - 0.75" all the way around the fan from the shroud to give me plenty of wiggle room so that I don't have any fan / shroud strikes. Here's what I have so far.

 

[nicholastheczar]

I'm also working on my saginaw steering conversion right now. I ordered a plate and tube from Kurt @ cruiseroutfitters and started fabbing everything up.

I bought the 4 bolt sag box from Napa. It took a few days to get it as it had to be shipped from Sacramento, CA. I paid $105 + $12 shipping + $55 core. I got a deal on the box at $105 vs $155 as the Napa I've been buying my parts through has started giving me pretty good discounts (I don't know if that is a good thing or a bad thing!! ).

Used my dewalt 18v XRP and 3.25" hole saw to cut my hole in the crossmember.

Unfortunately, my DeWalt didn't make it .... FJ40 - 1, DeWalt - 0. Little too much torque when my hole saw became binded and snap!

Alot of test fitting to make sure everything was lined up and clearanced properly and then I welded up my spacers. I used every bit of the spacer material included, could have actually used about another half inch.

I had to grind my shackle hanger just a bit to allow for my bolt to clear.

I orderd my flaming river u joints and DD steering shaft from summit so they should be here tomorrow. More pictures to come.

Nick

 

[CruisinFJ60]

bling!

 

[chicago]

Lookin AWESOME!
Im itchin to get to this part too.
So you were able to squeeze a 19x 26 in rad. up there?
Interesting. I ended up with a 19x24 griffen. Planning on the Mech. fan as well, but have a taurus fan for back up. With the Vortec, the upper rad. hose is in jeopardy with the fan the way it fits...I may end up having to drop my rad. supports DOWN for better clearance.
Nice seeing this part of the build!

 

[LCHardriver_02]

Nick,

I have been reading your thread for quite some time. Very impressive. I have learned so much about the amount of hard work that goes into the 40. Keep up the great work. I wish I had your talent and ability to put so much of you life and dollars into a machine like this. Awesome!

Jonathan