- Thread starter
- #81
Ah, yes. This pig will have a roof rack. What I plan to do is make new rails out of heavier gage steel. And then possibly reinforce the mount points further. I will be sure to document that when I do it.
Project MOVIESTAR (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter scorcher1967
- Start date
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Ah, yes. This pig will have a roof rack. What I plan to do is make new rails out of heavier gage steel. And then possibly reinforce the mount points further. I will be sure to document that when I do it.
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Oh Mylanta! That is some beautiful work!
I forgot to call you after Christmas for those Pig parts. Picking up the phone...
I forgot to call you after Christmas for those Pig parts. Picking up the phone...
........inspiring as was your first one......BTW; do you know what media was used for blasting?...have been afraid of warping; also; nice patch work on the doors.....did you mig it? or use OA?........TIA
- Thread starter
- #84
yep mig. (burns through the old steel sometimes, unless I can get a piece of copper behind it) then cleaned with a flap disc on an angle grinder.
and, yeah TJ, give me a call.
and, yeah TJ, give me a call.
Do the A-pillars of that pig have a lot of lead in them? My pass. side comes up almost to the top it seems. Unless I'm totally mistaken??? I'm thinking for that corner section I'm gonna have to JB weld it since I'm leaving the glass in as well.
- Thread starter
- #86
yes, quite a bit of lead. I took the torch to it to find the original welded seam. (still have some of the solder in my bootlaces)
That will be tricky, with the glass in, but there are products on the market that bond metal to metal without welding. (I have never used them, but have seen the work, at it seems fine) Might be worth looking into.
lou-sorry i missed the media blast question. Tracy uses sand in his blasting booth. He is very careful to watch the heat buildup and warping. If a panel seems to thin, he will had sand the center, and just blast the edges.
- Thread starter
- #87
Since we finally got above 0degrees, I got back into the garage today. (fun facts: air compressor lines freeze when it is below 0, and auto darkening welding helmets don't work right below 0.) Guess which two things I really needed last week?
Mostly I did an hour of finish weld and grind/shape on the drivers rear wheel lip.
But, I also thought to do a little modification I thought would be nice.
I took the interior light from Frank, cut it off, flipped it around, and put it above the cargo area in the rear. Relativly easy with the roof skin off. (I imagine this could be done with the roof on, and the headliner out)
Mostly I did an hour of finish weld and grind/shape on the drivers rear wheel lip.
But, I also thought to do a little modification I thought would be nice.
I took the interior light from Frank, cut it off, flipped it around, and put it above the cargo area in the rear. Relativly easy with the roof skin off. (I imagine this could be done with the roof on, and the headliner out)
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So you're going with TWO lights?! Stock location and then the new one in the rear? I dig it, that's brilliant. 
Nice work Jason
- Thread starter
- #90
fj55 Rear Cargo Light
Yep. I always thought cargo areas were too dark. My 64 Fairlane Wagon has a rear cargo light, so I was looking at it, looking at the empty socket on Frank...
Seemed so obvious, I wonder why the factory never did this?
Also, the pics of it were duplicate, I fixed it so there is a different angle. All the welds are accessable from inside/under, so this would be possible to do with the roof skin on and headliner out.
So you're going with TWO lights?! Stock location and then the new one in the rear? I dig it, that's brilliant.
Yep. I always thought cargo areas were too dark. My 64 Fairlane Wagon has a rear cargo light, so I was looking at it, looking at the empty socket on Frank...
Seemed so obvious, I wonder why the factory never did this?
Also, the pics of it were duplicate, I fixed it so there is a different angle. All the welds are accessable from inside/under, so this would be possible to do with the roof skin on and headliner out.
cruiser_guy
Out of Africa / North Africa
I did the same thing on mine. I just have not yet put in the second light. I was going to have them both work together since the second light I have doesn't have the little toggle switch.
What I also did was add the extra bows from the second roof so rather than just two or three bows to support the roof I now have twice as many. If you are careful in the placement you won't see it through the headliner.
- Thread starter
- #92
Started roof rail patching. 4 of 5 drivers side done.
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Jinkies!
This is cool...
I really like the rear cargo light idea.
I notice my dome light has three positions - I wonder if you could take a light with the broken lever and put it in the rear and slave it off the front light with lever?
This is cool...
I really like the rear cargo light idea.
I notice my dome light has three positions - I wonder if you could take a light with the broken lever and put it in the rear and slave it off the front light with lever?
cruiser_guy
Out of Africa / North Africa
That's my plan. Maybe I'll look into that tomorrow.
- Thread starter
- #95
Three positions being Off, Door, and On? It could be wired up a couple different ways.
1. Independant. Works just like the front one. (Off, Door, and ON)
2. Fully Slaved. Matches what the front one is doing always.
3. Partially Slaved. Wired hot ONLY if the front one is in one of the On positions, but with its own switch, can be turned off independantly.
It is kind of a preferance thing. I guess I better ask Elyse how she wants hers wired up.
Last driverside roof patch got put in last night, pictures soon. I started on the drivers rocker panel, but the 20 minutes of sand pouring out of the first cut made it hard to keep going! Ever run an air tool in a pile of sand? Don't. You end up eating a lot of sand.
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Great visual!
Let us know what you do with the light...
I was wondering if you could wire the lights so the Door position up front turns on the rear light?
I am just thinking the rear cargo light option sure would be awfully convenient. Especially at the drive-in movies, camping, etc. I will be replacing my headliner soon, but I do not have a spare light mount or a spare dome light.
cruiser_guy
Out of Africa / North Africa
One problem though. '55's do NOT have door switches, at least mine doesn't (they could be added though)!!
I figure I'll wire it from the front light to be either front only, rear only or off. My extra dome light has a broken toggle switch so I cannot control it from the rear.
Better yet, when I replace my headliner later this year I can wire it to a relay from the rear window lockout switch so that when the tailgate is open the light comes on.
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Since we finally got above 0degrees, I got back into the garage today. (fun facts: air compressor lines freeze when it is below 0, and auto darkening welding helmets don't work right below 0.) Guess which two things I really needed last week?
Mostly I did an hour of finish weld and grind/shape on the drivers rear wheel lip.
But, I also thought to do a little modification I thought would be nice.
I took the interior light from Frank, cut it off, flipped it around, and put it above the cargo area in the rear. Relativly easy with the roof skin off. (I imagine this could be done with the roof on, and the headliner out)
Jason,
Does that hole in the B pillar look like a mount for seatbelt?
- Thread starter
- #99
Good Idea also. Make that 4 ways!
The hole directly above it? That is a headliner bow hole. BUT, if you move back alone the roof support, there is a factory mount point above the rear cargo windows that has a factory threaded hole that is the same size/thread count as a the point for the front seat belts. It was totally covered by the headliner, but given its position, and bolt size, it almost has to be designed for a seat belt point.
I will get a picture of it tonight. I imaginge you could find it with a good measurement.
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
I was refering to the hole on the B pillar - prob slightly above the driver's shoulder. I have seen some Aussie Pigs with the seat belts mounted there.
Wondering if this would be a good place to mount 3 point belts when I replace the headliner...
Wondering if this would be a good place to mount 3 point belts when I replace the headliner...
