I seem to recall seeing that pig in the Silver lake area some time ago
Good job on the fixing
Good job on the fixing
Project MOVIESTAR
- Thread starter scorcher1967
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #42
Center Dash Removal FJ55
Center dash removal is much easier if your heater box is out. Not impossible with it in, but easier. Early models have some access, later models, you will have to remove the upper vents at least. You do not need to remove knobs or switches, it is much easier with the whole plate out.
1. disconnect choke cable at carb.
2. remove radio (i have only found aftermarket radios, always hack the dash the same, makes a nice access hole)
3. Remove heater control cables. I find this to be easier to do at the end, rather than the controls. You most likely will have to remove your blower box to get one of them off. This is still easier than trying to fit a very small phillips head inside the dash, upside down, with nowhere for your hand to go.
4. unplug any electrical connections that you can get to.
5.remove the 6 phillips head screws from the face plate. Some of these might be covered up by the aftermarket radio sleeves. another reason to take radio out first.
6. The face plate should come forward some now. You may have to help the heater control cables along the way, and disconnet wires from the back side of the center dash plate.
7. Once all wires and heater control cables are disconneted, radioe is removed, and choke cable is free. Begin pulling the face plate out.
8. Even with everything disconnected, you will have to maneuver the plate to clear the levers behind the heater controls. Do not force it, the plate can bend easily. (see photo for the offending lever)
9. Reinstall is easier the reverse, except I usually install the radio adaptors first, to make it more secure.
a photo of the back side of the center plate. This is from a 73.
a photo showing the drop down lever that has to clear the dash.
Center dash removal is much easier if your heater box is out. Not impossible with it in, but easier. Early models have some access, later models, you will have to remove the upper vents at least. You do not need to remove knobs or switches, it is much easier with the whole plate out.
1. disconnect choke cable at carb.
2. remove radio (i have only found aftermarket radios, always hack the dash the same, makes a nice access hole)
3. Remove heater control cables. I find this to be easier to do at the end, rather than the controls. You most likely will have to remove your blower box to get one of them off. This is still easier than trying to fit a very small phillips head inside the dash, upside down, with nowhere for your hand to go.
4. unplug any electrical connections that you can get to.
5.remove the 6 phillips head screws from the face plate. Some of these might be covered up by the aftermarket radio sleeves. another reason to take radio out first.
6. The face plate should come forward some now. You may have to help the heater control cables along the way, and disconnet wires from the back side of the center dash plate.
7. Once all wires and heater control cables are disconneted, radioe is removed, and choke cable is free. Begin pulling the face plate out.
8. Even with everything disconnected, you will have to maneuver the plate to clear the levers behind the heater controls. Do not force it, the plate can bend easily. (see photo for the offending lever)
9. Reinstall is easier the reverse, except I usually install the radio adaptors first, to make it more secure.
a photo of the back side of the center plate. This is from a 73.
a photo showing the drop down lever that has to clear the dash.
- Thread starter
- #43
Main Wiring Removal FJ55
I little tip on removing the main wiring harness. The fuse box is the center of the harness. On the earlier rigs, it goes across the dash, ending at the wiper motor, in the engine bay, it runs up front, under the radiator, and back around to the starter. The rear harness attatches on the drivers side toe board. Work it from the ends to the fuse box, and take it out on the lower left side of the dash. On the later rigs, the rear harness attatches down the passender side IIRC. Otherwise, quite similar.
on the 73, this is where the harness comes through the firewall, and the rear harness attatches. Feed the underdash to this area, and the whole thing comes out. It is also the best place to start when putting it back.
only wipers and ebrake to go on the dash. Then steering column, and pedal assemblies.
I little tip on removing the main wiring harness. The fuse box is the center of the harness. On the earlier rigs, it goes across the dash, ending at the wiper motor, in the engine bay, it runs up front, under the radiator, and back around to the starter. The rear harness attatches on the drivers side toe board. Work it from the ends to the fuse box, and take it out on the lower left side of the dash. On the later rigs, the rear harness attatches down the passender side IIRC. Otherwise, quite similar.
on the 73, this is where the harness comes through the firewall, and the rear harness attatches. Feed the underdash to this area, and the whole thing comes out. It is also the best place to start when putting it back.
only wipers and ebrake to go on the dash. Then steering column, and pedal assemblies.
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Center dash removal is much easier if your heater box is out. Not impossible with it in, but easier. Early models have some access, later models, you will have to remove the upper vents at least. You do not need to remove knobs or switches, it is much easier with the whole plate out.
1. disconnect choke cable at carb.
2. remove radio (i have only found aftermarket radios, always hack the dash the same, makes a nice access hole)
3. Remove heater control cables. I find this to be easier to do at the end, rather than the controls. You most likely will have to remove your blower box to get one of them off. This is still easier than trying to fit a very small phillips head inside the dash, upside down, with nowhere for your hand to go.
4. unplug any electrical connections that you can get to.
5.remove the 6 phillips head screws from the face plate. Some of these might be covered up by the aftermarket radio sleeves. another reason to take radio out first.
6. The face plate should come forward some now. You may have to help the heater control cables along the way, and disconnet wires from the back side of the center dash plate.
7. Once all wires and heater control cables are disconneted, radioe is removed, and choke cable is free. Begin pulling the face plate out.
8. Even with everything disconnected, you will have to maneuver the plate to clear the levers behind the heater controls. Do not force it, the plate can bend easily. (see photo for the offending lever)
9. Reinstall is easier the reverse, except I usually install the radio adaptors first, to make it more secure.
a photo of the back side of the center plate. This is from a 73.
a photo showing the drop down lever that has to clear the dash.
Awesome!
Thanks for the detail - I appreciate it!
- Thread starter
- #45
Back to work.
The interior is almost apart. Only the doors and windows left now.
A little trick I do when tackling a project. Remove parts as Sub-assemblies whenever possible. Keep the hardware together, or in a labeled container. If you are going to repair, or restore the sub-assembly, do it, then put it back together. It will pay off when you go to put the whole thing back together.
The interior is almost apart. Only the doors and windows left now.
A little trick I do when tackling a project. Remove parts as Sub-assemblies whenever possible. Keep the hardware together, or in a labeled container. If you are going to repair, or restore the sub-assembly, do it, then put it back together. It will pay off when you go to put the whole thing back together.
- Thread starter
- #46
Drivers side doors are now just shells.
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Jason,
Would you be able to post a pic of the driver's door mechanism? I have to push my outer handle all the way in to get the mechanism to open.
I imagine there is a bent piece in there that I could remedy. I would value the picture, but I know you are a busy man...
Thanks!
Would you be able to post a pic of the driver's door mechanism? I have to push my outer handle all the way in to get the mechanism to open.
I imagine there is a bent piece in there that I could remedy. I would value the picture, but I know you are a busy man...
Thanks!
- Thread starter
- #48
gutted passenger side doors, and pulled all the glass out today. Headliner and brake/clutch off the firewall, and the body is ready to pop off.
And for Pablo...
Here is the mechanism. You see the latch assy on the left, follow the rod up to the 2 screw bracket, this bracket is a pivot for the contact plate that the plunger from the door handle engages. This has a threaded adjusting sleeve where the rod joins the pivot. This is one place you can adjust the depth of plunger movement.
The plunger and contact plate
I have found 2 different types of plunger on the exterior door handles. One, is a sold piece, the other is adjustable. This would be another way to adjust your mechanism, if you have the threaded type.
The two vertical holes above the latch are where the bracket/pivot mount. You should be able to get to the two 10mm bolts holding the handle on, if you first remove the pivot.
Good luck, let me know if you need any help.
And for Pablo...
Here is the mechanism. You see the latch assy on the left, follow the rod up to the 2 screw bracket, this bracket is a pivot for the contact plate that the plunger from the door handle engages. This has a threaded adjusting sleeve where the rod joins the pivot. This is one place you can adjust the depth of plunger movement.
The plunger and contact plate
I have found 2 different types of plunger on the exterior door handles. One, is a sold piece, the other is adjustable. This would be another way to adjust your mechanism, if you have the threaded type.
The two vertical holes above the latch are where the bracket/pivot mount. You should be able to get to the two 10mm bolts holding the handle on, if you first remove the pivot.
Good luck, let me know if you need any help.
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
That is Gold Jason - Thank you!
I have never seen the adjustable - are you certain that is a factory configuration?
I have never seen the adjustable - are you certain that is a factory configuration?
- Thread starter
- #50
pulled the brake booster, clutch master, and lines off the front clip. Unbolted the front clip, and argued with the front body mount bolts. They won the day. The clip wont lift high enough to get the bolts out of the frame, and the bolts refuse to come through. They will soak in WD-40. I will defeat them.
- Thread starter
- #51
Victory, over the front clip. Now, if the HOA will get off its a** and approve my storage shed, I can put all this stuff somewhere safe.
- Thread starter
- #52
Doors off. Headliner out. I found two things inside the headliner. Sand, and remarkably, a very intact looking inner roof structure.
- Thread starter
- #53
The body is now just a shell with a tailgate. I will go get an impact screwdriver and fix that tomorrow. The only thing holding the body on the frame now, is gravity.
And in the ARRGGGHHHH
catagory. A little exploration with a wire wheel showed tons of fun. And by fun, I mean bondo. The body looked great, with a little bit of rust bubbles, few dents. Well, no. When the body work was done, no effort was made to pull dents, or fix rust. They drilled holes to anchor the bondo, and squeezed it into the holes. Sloppy, cheap, but it held up for 10+ years. The bondo was so thick in some of the rust holes, it actually prevented the rust from spreading.
my favorite. It looked so good, but its over a quarter inch of bondo.
And in the ARRGGGHHHH
catagory. A little exploration with a wire wheel showed tons of fun. And by fun, I mean bondo. The body looked great, with a little bit of rust bubbles, few dents. Well, no. When the body work was done, no effort was made to pull dents, or fix rust. They drilled holes to anchor the bondo, and squeezed it into the holes. Sloppy, cheap, but it held up for 10+ years. The bondo was so thick in some of the rust holes, it actually prevented the rust from spreading.
my favorite. It looked so good, but its over a quarter inch of bondo.
that's my pig...
These photos are living proof what can go wrong when body work is done by the wrong guy.
Pretty shiny paint is ever so deceiving. I will not name names.
&^#$&*^%!! That's my pig. Group hug for Elyse?
All I can say is thanks to this forum this pig is in good hands now.
Lesson painfully LEARNED.
This is your brain on bondo.
--
Elyse
These photos are living proof what can go wrong when body work is done by the wrong guy.
Pretty shiny paint is ever so deceiving. I will not name names. &^#$&*^%!! That's my pig. Group hug for Elyse?
All I can say is thanks to this forum this pig is in good hands now. Lesson painfully LEARNED.
This is your brain on bondo.
--
Elyse
landcruisnman
1972 FJ55 "Iron Giant"
Scorcher,
Are you sending the whole body out for sandblasting? Check out this rotisserie that I borrowed from 1973Guppie to do my body. Makes life lots easier. Your moving right along with that piggy. I had two once, but the donors life was short. Keep the pics coming. Motivational pictorials
cheers
Pat
Carlsbad
Are you sending the whole body out for sandblasting? Check out this rotisserie that I borrowed from 1973Guppie to do my body. Makes life lots easier. Your moving right along with that piggy. I had two once, but the donors life was short. Keep the pics coming. Motivational pictorials
cheers
Pat
Carlsbad
- Thread starter
- #56
nice. I may build a rotisserie, but I think the blaster has one. Dont know if I can borrow it. But, It will be helpful if I need to flip it, to fix the floors. Not impossible, but nice.
Updates?
Jason will chime in here and with a lot more detail but things are slowly moving along. So, situation normal. The sandblaster revealed more thick bondo, so THAT was a drag. But the real pig is emerging from under all this and that is satisfying, knowing it will be done right this time. We also got a SWELL set of replacement visors from Gary S.
Hey, it's the little things in life.
Now in the perspective gaining department: I rented a car, driving for the first time post pig. Cute little Ford Caliber. Stylish, comfy, but this is LA and EVERYONE is cutting me off. Just walking all over me. Oh I am so missing my pig. Then - oops! I get rear ended. Nice little dent in that plastic fender. Hmmm-mmm. Now we get to run the rental-car insurance paperwork guantlet. What fun!
Thankfully I did not suspend my insurance yet and I am covered but all I could think of was the 3 other times I have been rear-ended while driving the 55. All ended badly, for the other driver. The pig and I just shrugged it off. Like, did you feel something?
Oh how absence makes the heart grow fonder...
Hey, it's the little things in life.
Now in the perspective gaining department: I rented a car, driving for the first time post pig. Cute little Ford Caliber. Stylish, comfy, but this is LA and EVERYONE is cutting me off. Just walking all over me. Oh I am so missing my pig. Then - oops! I get rear ended. Nice little dent in that plastic fender. Hmmm-mmm. Now we get to run the rental-car insurance paperwork guantlet. What fun!
Thankfully I did not suspend my insurance yet and I am covered but all I could think of was the 3 other times I have been rear-ended while driving the 55. All ended badly, for the other driver. The pig and I just shrugged it off. Like, did you feel something?
Oh how absence makes the heart grow fonder...
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
My Pig is down right now as well. I miss it.
Every night, my 2 year old boy asks me where the "Land Cruiser Pig" is...
I feel your pain!
Every night, my 2 year old boy asks me where the "Land Cruiser Pig" is...
I feel your pain!
- Thread starter
- #60
update....sure.
The HOA finally approved the storage shed. It took me a week of all my free time, but its built. I can't tell you how many times I uttered the phrase. "Damnit! I am a mechanic, not a carpenter! Stupid wood!"
The sandblasting is going quite slow. He reported over an 1/8th inch of bondo on the cowl panel. Mind you, there were not dents or rust on the cowl panel, just some gratuitous bondo. So, more time. He was not able to get the doors/fenders done before leaving town, so the main shell still sits, waiting its turn. Other than that, its been total chaos here. Let me quote an excerpt from an email I sent Elyse.
""No battle plan survives first contact with the enemy." -Helmuth von Moltke the Elder, German Field Marshal, WWI
This sentiment has many parrallels with a car restoration!
I apologize for my lack up updates lately, my life seems endlessly diverted....Past couple weeks have been, unusual...My friend borrowed my bronco to move, on the way up, broke the window of his car. I fixed his window, lost 1/2 day. He broke the back window out of my bronco. Gave it back to me, with a new window, not installed, lost another 3/4 day. Lexie went to summer camp, camp got cancelled a week early due to an outbreak of swine flu(5 confirmed cases). She came down with symtoms, so off goes the whole family to the doctor. We dont have it. *phew* But the little ones did get some bug, and spent a couple nights vomiting, awesome. Scotts truck was repossessed, 4 days before his annual family vacation. They go off to live in a 1850s fur trading camp, in a TeePee. They have their own TeePee, and the roof rack I built for his truck was totally custom designed to carry TeePee poles. Basically, I had 4 mornings ( I work in the afternoons ) to custom design, build and install a new rack on his FJ55. Oh, and by the way Jason, can you throw a trailer hitch on that thing while you are at it? Mad scramble, but I got it done, saved the family get away. Our computer melted down last week, and is patched together, barely functional. I can email, but no pics. I did not lose any old pics, but the motherboard is toasty, and wants to die a dignified death. Blew a driveshaft on the Minivan, worked 5 14 hour days last week, while scott was on vacation....He will be walking back in to work, and get told he should be firing 3 of our 8 cooks. "
Awesome. Back on track soon.
The HOA finally approved the storage shed. It took me a week of all my free time, but its built. I can't tell you how many times I uttered the phrase. "Damnit! I am a mechanic, not a carpenter! Stupid wood!"
The sandblasting is going quite slow. He reported over an 1/8th inch of bondo on the cowl panel. Mind you, there were not dents or rust on the cowl panel, just some gratuitous bondo. So, more time. He was not able to get the doors/fenders done before leaving town, so the main shell still sits, waiting its turn. Other than that, its been total chaos here. Let me quote an excerpt from an email I sent Elyse.
""No battle plan survives first contact with the enemy." -Helmuth von Moltke the Elder, German Field Marshal, WWI
This sentiment has many parrallels with a car restoration!
I apologize for my lack up updates lately, my life seems endlessly diverted....Past couple weeks have been, unusual...My friend borrowed my bronco to move, on the way up, broke the window of his car. I fixed his window, lost 1/2 day. He broke the back window out of my bronco. Gave it back to me, with a new window, not installed, lost another 3/4 day. Lexie went to summer camp, camp got cancelled a week early due to an outbreak of swine flu(5 confirmed cases). She came down with symtoms, so off goes the whole family to the doctor. We dont have it. *phew* But the little ones did get some bug, and spent a couple nights vomiting, awesome. Scotts truck was repossessed, 4 days before his annual family vacation. They go off to live in a 1850s fur trading camp, in a TeePee. They have their own TeePee, and the roof rack I built for his truck was totally custom designed to carry TeePee poles. Basically, I had 4 mornings ( I work in the afternoons ) to custom design, build and install a new rack on his FJ55. Oh, and by the way Jason, can you throw a trailer hitch on that thing while you are at it? Mad scramble, but I got it done, saved the family get away. Our computer melted down last week, and is patched together, barely functional. I can email, but no pics. I did not lose any old pics, but the motherboard is toasty, and wants to die a dignified death. Blew a driveshaft on the Minivan, worked 5 14 hour days last week, while scott was on vacation....He will be walking back in to work, and get told he should be firing 3 of our 8 cooks. "
Awesome. Back on track soon.
