Project Low Ryder (1 Viewer)

[Brandon Ryder]

prepared for mounting my new tires which i plan to get next week by trimming the fenders. too many pictures to post here but i made a how to thread. how to trim fenders AKA pinch weld mod

here's a couple though

 

[hoser]

@Brandon Ryder My exhaust never made contact with the skids but I realize every 100 is a bit different, especially after 20 years. Perhaps your rubber exhaust hangers are worn? In any case, glad you worked it out. "Hammer to fit. Paint to match!"

 

[Brandon Ryder]

Who knows. Maybe the PO did exhaust work. I had some trouble first mounting them up with holes not aligning well. After straightening they all lined up perfectly. I'm not complaining. They're skids afterall. I'll probably wait till I get to Colorado to buy the front skid. I gotta get some tires on this thing!

 

[Brandon Ryder]

Tire Day! I had America's tire mount up 4 Cooper Discoverer AT3 XLTs in 285/75R18! 5th wheel is in the mail so that will get mounted up later this week. just got home and only driven on the road so I'll save any reviews until it's appropriate. so far they fit. I'll post details and a couple more pictures in the next post.

 

[Brandon Ryder]

I'll try and update this with more details later, but for now, 285/75/18 cooper AT3 XLT. 2" ironman pro cell lift. tundra wheels. no spacers and stock UCA. Trimmed and pounded pinchweld, see above posts on that. I'm currently 21" hub to fender all the way around. With this setup so far on the road no rubbing. Tomorrow will try to twist it up and see where it may rub. I can tell that without having trimmed the fenders it would rub.
It's hard to get an accurate actual tire dimension but on a mounted wheel on the vehicle it appears to be maybe a hair over 34" at 35psi(would like opinions on what pressure is right for these tires).
Part of the reason I went with this size was that the coopers run small. If they were true to size I might have gone with some 295/70R18s

This picture is a little misleading. Hard to line up camera just right. It's easy to make them look like 33s to 35s depending on angle of the camera.

 

[Brandon Ryder]

My trail tailor shock guard came in today so I painted them up and bolted them on. I ran into two minor details. The passenger side guard ran into the anti sway bar slightly. So I lopped off the offending corner. I expected the same on the other side thinking it had something to do with my lift and lack of extended drop links. But I had plenty of room. instead had to drill out the factory bracket slightly to get a hole to line up. There's no adjustment really in the bracket other than oversize holes. Installing the two bolts into the shock bracket on the back is a little fiddly and I can't get a wrench on one of the nuts inside so can't properly tighten. I would actually prefer to have one through hole ands long bolt that goes all the way through even though it requires drilling. It will make removal of the shock much easier in the future. I may still do this. I think it's possible as is.

Now to go check the tires and suspension for clearance issues!

 

[Brandon Ryder]

I hit some trails and tried to flex it up. I disconnected the sway bars to help. I couldn't make it rub though I didn't quite hit the bump stop though. Glad I trimmed the washer cover. It came very close .

 

[Brandon Ryder]

Over the weekend I bought and installed the somewhat new harbor freight badlands Apex 12k lb winch. It was 599 and with a coupon came to 480. My LC is a 2000 but with an ARB 2003 and up version of their bull bar bumper. This one is supposed to fit a 12k lb winch, which it does. The mounting holes face forward so the winch has to be mounted with its "top" facing back. This necessitates the removal of the control box and usually the rotation of the housing for the clutch. The apex winch comes with a relocation kit for the control box, but doesn't have the ability to clock or rotate the clutch.

I finished up the install today. It took way too long but I really wanted the details to be right.
As said before the housing won't rotate so you have to access the clutch from below. I cut a 4" hole in the splash guard for access and fitted a 50 cent 4" knockout plug from home depot as a cover. It just snaps in.

I wanted the control box to sit on top. The bracket they give you to relocate it is more cumbersome than the box itself. And the box is plenty strong so I got some 50mm/2" long m6 bolts at Oreillys and some 3/4" spacers at Ace hardware and I drilled the bumper where I wanted the box mounted. I then used m6 rivet nuts so I didn't have to through-bolt it which would be a pain. The spacers keep the box from touching the bumper and rattling or wearing through the powder coat. Unfortunately the back bolts ran into a verticle support on the underside of the bumper which was inconvenient. A 1/4" more forward would have been perfect.

The fairlead needs to be mounted right through to the winch mounts and the bolts they give you are the wrong size. I got some m10 1.5 50mm long class 10.9(grade 8) bolts at Oreillys.

I fitted the battery cut off switch both to protect my circuits and to prevent unauthorized use of the winch when I'm not around. The switch is next to the battery under the hood.

I also used some 3/8this hose to protect the heavy battery cables as they passed by or through body panels etc...

If it rotated this would be nearly a turn key deal. The synthetic rope, hook, relocation kit and wireless remote included are a fantastic bargain. About 10 bucks in extra bolts to make it work. You could do this without the riv nut tool but I just bought one so I was happy to find more uses for it.

I bought a recovery kit to go along with the winch as well from 4 wheel parts wholesale. Its just a smitty built kit but has the basics you need to get started. I've never winched before but watched some really great videos on YouTube by Ronny Dahl.

Edit to add video of install and first use

 

[prwillard2]

View attachment 2319128Over the weekend I bought and installed the somewhat new harbor freight badlands Apex 12k lb winch. It was 599 and with a coupon came to 480. My LC is a 2000 but with an ARB 2003 and up version of their bull bar bumper. This one is supposed to fit a 12k lb winch, which it does. The mounting holes face forward so the winch has to be mounted with its "top" facing back. This necessitates the removal of the control box and usually the rotation of the housing for the clutch. The apex winch comes with a relocation kit for the control box, but doesn't have the ability to clock or rotate the clutch.

I finished up the install today. It took way too long but I really wanted the details to be right.
As said before the housing won't rotate so you have to access the clutch from below. I cut a 4" hole in the splash guard for access and fitted a 50 cent 4" knockout plug from home depot as a cover. It just snaps in.
View attachment 2319130View attachment 2319131
I wanted the control box to sit on top. The bracket they give you to relocate it is more cumbersome than the box itself. And the box is plenty strong so I got some 50mm/2" long m6 bolts at Oreillys and some 3/4" spacers at Ace hardware and I drilled the bumper where I wanted the box mounted. I then used m6 rivet nuts so I didn't have to through-bolt it which would be a pain. The spacers keep the box from touching the bumper and rattling or wearing through the powder coat. Unfortunately the back bolts ran into a verticle support on the underside of the bumper which was inconvenient. A 1/4" more forward would have been perfect.
View attachment 2319134
The fairlead needs to be mounted right through to the winch mounts and the bolts they give you are the wrong size. I got some m10 1.5 50mm long class 10.9(grade 8) bolts at Oreillys.
View attachment 2319132
I fitted the battery cut off switch both to protect my circuits and to prevent unauthorized use of the winch when I'm not around. The switch is next to the battery under the hood.

I also used some 3/8this hose to protect the heavy battery cables as they passed by or through body panels etc...

If it rotated this would be nearly a turn key deal. The synthetic rope, hook, relocation kit and wireless remote included are a fantastic bargain. About 10 bucks in extra bolts to make it work. You could do this without the riv nut tool but I just bought one so I was happy to find more uses for it.

I bought a recovery kit to go along with the winch as well from 4 wheel parts wholesale. Its just a smitty built kit but has the basics you need to get started. I've never winched before but watched some really great videos on YouTube by Ronny Dahl.

What battery cutoff switch are you using? I'm looking to put one on my winch.

 

[Brandon Ryder]

What battery cutoff switch are you using? I'm looking to put one on my winch.

IDK? It came with the winch!

 

[hoser]

Are you sure there is no way to clock the clutch? Access from the bottom could be a problem. Ordinarily, you free spool out and winch in. If you have to winch out, the load-holding brake is on and so winching out a long ways will heat things up.

 

[suprarx7nut]

Really nice log of issues and fixes! I have similar steering rack bushing problems (though mine is an 06 with different bushings) and similar CV problems.

Keep up the nice work!

 

[Brandon Ryder]

Are you sure there is no way to clock the clutch? Access from the bottom could be a problem. Ordinarily, you free spool out and winch in. If you have to winch out, the load-holding brake is on and so winching out a long ways will heat things up.

There's nothing in the instructions about clocking it and can't find a reference online. Check out the bolt pattern and shape of the housing.

In the first picture there is as step built into the bottom of the housing. In three second picture the two bolts on top are different spacing than the bottom. So it can't be flipped and certainly not 90 degrees.
There is an end cap that is symmetrical but it doesn't influence the clutch that I can see.
All the harbor freights near me have them on display even if they don't have them in stock. You could check one out in person. I would love to be wrong. Wouldn't be the first time!

 

[hoser]

Oh well, that asymmetrical bolt pattern is a bummer.

 

[Brandon Ryder]

So the very first week I put the tires on, I took the cruiser down to big sur to check out some beautiful dirt trails and take some pictures of the truck. The coast road is windy(curvy) and randomly, on the dry paved road, the VSC activated around a turn and applied the brakes! I was a little shook but it only happened once and didn't cause an accident, but it activated totally inappropriately. I've been on this road dozens of times, even after the lift and all the mods you see in this thread, but as soon as the tires went on, this happened. It started occurring on other twisty roads here in the hills near the coast, scaring me and the wife since the brakes were applied and an alarm sounded. I did some research and found others have had problems with the VSC applying at inopportune times as well. I looked into calibrating the yaw sensor but in the end just decided to disable VSC. There's a few threads on this but I'm going to post a picture one member created that documents what to do if you should also need to do this.
It involves cutting one wire and grounding it. This will light up the VSC OFF light on the dash, which I later removed so as to keep the dash clean. I don't need to be reminded that the automatic death system is off.

I've been driving around for over a week since I did this including on the same curvy roads that caused the VSC activation and all is well. Normal driving. After this was resolved the wife feels very happy with the driveability of the cruiser. She said she was a little nervous about all the mods ruining the ride but is actually very pleased that the ride is basically as good as stock without any compromises.

For reference this connector is under the dash right next to the brake pedal. There are 4 connectors that feed into the *computer?* there and the one you need is the second one down.

From this thread:

VSC OFF switch install.

subb

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Brandon Ryder]

Today I installed my a daytime running lights switch from Cruiser Heads 4x4 ch4x4.com
I really hate that you can't ordinarily turn off the DRLs.
I installed the switch so that it only lights up when the DRLs are also on. I did this by connecting the power for the switch light to the same circuit that activates the relay for the DRLs. If you wire it into acc hot like the instructions say, it will have the words illuminated all the time and the image illuminated when the switch is on. I wanted an indicator that they are ACTUALLY on or off. For example my way the light for the switch will turn off when the headlights come on. This way also keeps the dash completely blacked out if I'm sitting in the vehicle idling at night with the lights off.
Now I can pull into a parking spot or camp ground at night and not be lighting up people who may be sleeping or sitting in their own cars.
The connector that has the DRLs is facing directly down below the dash next to the brake pedal. It's a red wire with blue stripe. I pulled the connector out of the plug because it was easier to work on. There isn't a lot of wire that you can reach.

I wired both red wires to the side that goes into the plug. The green wire goes to the other side of the red blue wire I cut. Black goes to the nearest ground point I could find.

Edit: ok I spoke too soon. When the headlights come on the switch illumination doesn't go off with the DRLs, but at least the switch is unlit when it's turned off!

 

[Brandon Ryder]

Installed my new Owl Expedition fire extinguisher mount made by user @Ramathorn15. This thing is perfectly designed. The bolt pattern matched my buckeye fire extinguisher vehicle mount without me having to drill any new holes. The mount moves with the seat and always stays tucked up under your legs without getting in the way. It places the fire extinguisher in a good position horizontally as well, farther to the right, so I can bend my leg comfortably as well. Great product!
The perfect compliment to my halotron fire extinguisher which is safe to use for a vehicle fire without causing more damage to the car than the fire itself like an ABC extinguisher.

 

[Ramathorn15]

Looks great. Thanks for the share!

 

[Brandon Ryder]

Wrapped up my winch install video by getting a chance to use it at Hollister Hills. I don't really have any editing equipment do sorry for the poorly edited video, but it gets the information across.
Im going to edit this same video into the original winch post above in this same thread so you may have already seen it.


Also here's a video of the wife and I playing at Hollister Hills State Vehicle Recreation Area. It's a great place to get a feel for the vehicle and wheeling with the obstacle courses and various rated trails. We did one "black diamond" trail but steered clear of the double black diamond courses meant for rock buggies and extremely built vehicles. We had a blast. The wife got pretty excited and she drove some obstacles too. Her voice comes through loud so start with volume low.

 

[AlpineAccess]

How are you looking the Cooper's?