Did you end up getting the heavier rated or lighter rated springs from Ironman?
Project Low Ryder (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Brandon Ryder
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- Thread starter
- #22
probably the lighter rated. 0-440 lb. i think. i didn't see the different rated springs on sale. i don't have any weight in the back yet so it suits me.
- Thread starter
- #23
bad news gents. my cv shafts are shot
splines are sharp at the top. and the flange looks like saw teeth or sand dunes. much longer and they would probably let go.
compare the end of the shaft after the snap ring with the engagement side. the tops of the splines should look the same.
the PO mechanic was the hack i thought he was. the bearing lock nuts weren't even tight. i unscrewed them with my fingers! and he obviously loosened and tightened them with a chisel and hammer because there were chisel marks all over the lock nuts. the claw washer was severely scored. its amazing i didn't have worse symptoms than just the clunk.
so now I need to order new cvs. but I'm curious. can we still get new cvs froon the dealer? or are they rebuilds? are these new?
if they're new I'll order them and hopefully have them by Tuesday.
meanwhile i'm going about prepping the hubs and inspecting parts. i taped out the old races and drove in new ones and swapped the rotor. at least those holes weren't cross threaded.
what do you make of this grease? its the color of rust but it didn't seem rusty. i cleaned out the middle of the spindle and inspected needle bearing. it looks ok to me. no scoring or discoloration. grease pattern indicates the roller bearing at least had a little grease. it wasn't greased to my liking however.
splines are sharp at the top. and the flange looks like saw teeth or sand dunes. much longer and they would probably let go.
compare the end of the shaft after the snap ring with the engagement side. the tops of the splines should look the same.
the PO mechanic was the hack i thought he was. the bearing lock nuts weren't even tight. i unscrewed them with my fingers! and he obviously loosened and tightened them with a chisel and hammer because there were chisel marks all over the lock nuts. the claw washer was severely scored. its amazing i didn't have worse symptoms than just the clunk.
so now I need to order new cvs. but I'm curious. can we still get new cvs froon the dealer? or are they rebuilds? are these new?
2000 Toyota Land Cruiser Cv axle (left, right, front). Front drive - 4343060040 | Salinas Toyota, Salinas CA
Cv axle (left, right, front). Front drive, left; front drive, right. 2000 Toyota Land Cruiser. Genuine Toyota Part - 4343060040 (43430-60040, 4343060020). Ships from Salinas Toyota, Salinas CA
parts.salinastoyota.com
if they're new I'll order them and hopefully have them by Tuesday.
meanwhile i'm going about prepping the hubs and inspecting parts. i taped out the old races and drove in new ones and swapped the rotor. at least those holes weren't cross threaded.
what do you make of this grease? its the color of rust but it didn't seem rusty. i cleaned out the middle of the spindle and inspected needle bearing. it looks ok to me. no scoring or discoloration. grease pattern indicates the roller bearing at least had a little grease. it wasn't greased to my liking however.
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- Thread starter
- #24
@2001LC
i cleaned up the brass bushing to take a look. it looks ok to me but I'm no expert. the grease around the seal and all over the bushing was the same. it looked undisturbed by water so I'm hoping the seal is good.
i also went ahead and pulled the DS cv and replaced the diff oil seal.
i cleaned up the brass bushing to take a look. it looks ok to me but I'm no expert. the grease around the seal and all over the bushing was the same. it looked undisturbed by water so I'm hoping the seal is good.
i also went ahead and pulled the DS cv and replaced the diff oil seal.
Good job on the work so far and great documentation.
Grease on the spindle looks normal, it discolors, that's common. Good you actually had some in there, it's common for them to be totally dry.
Give a shout when you get to CO.
Grease on the spindle looks normal, it discolors, that's common. Good you actually had some in there, it's common for them to be totally dry.
Give a shout when you get to CO.
- Thread starter
- #26
CVs came in!
new splines are a beautiful thing!
this end has a c clip that needs to open downward as you insert it into the diff. it liked to rotate so i put some grease on it to help it stay while i pushed it in.
these caliper hangers from rock auto where useful in more ways. this was very helpful to hold the shaft up while i shoved it in and served to protect the seal on the end from resting on the LCA.
checking with my phone that the CV is fully inserted. looks about perfect to me.
new splines are a beautiful thing!
this end has a c clip that needs to open downward as you insert it into the diff. it liked to rotate so i put some grease on it to help it stay while i pushed it in.
these caliper hangers from rock auto where useful in more ways. this was very helpful to hold the shaft up while i shoved it in and served to protect the seal on the end from resting on the LCA.
checking with my phone that the CV is fully inserted. looks about perfect to me.
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- Thread starter
- #27
also put some new lower ball joints as preventative maintenance. these were 555 sankei and i ordered them from advance autoparts. almost 40 bucks ea. used standard parts rental ball joint tool which is not adequate to do the job. need some hardware supplies to be able to press it. even then i had to get creative to fit these tools. used some shock bushing washers as my top plates. they're pretty tough and thin.
a bigger c press would be much better but i did it.
btw simply hammered out old LBJ. put a jack under the LCA to support it.
a bigger c press would be much better but i did it.
btw simply hammered out old LBJ. put a jack under the LCA to support it.
- Thread starter
- #28
did my first bearing pack and greased the hub filing the cavity between the bearings with grease. followed 2001LC videos. to do this.
greased the snot out of the spindle bushing and needle bearing since i don't have a way to inject grease from the end of the spinle. should be plenty...
but when the knuckle is attached, leaves a big gap at the axle/hub seal
so after installing the new flange and gasket used this method to pull out the shaft. have to be careful and add washers as you go so you don't bottom out the bolt in the axle shaft. don't use too much pressure. its only grease you're squishing.
again putting shock bushing washers to use
greased the snot out of the spindle bushing and needle bearing since i don't have a way to inject grease from the end of the spinle. should be plenty...
but when the knuckle is attached, leaves a big gap at the axle/hub seal
so after installing the new flange and gasket used this method to pull out the shaft. have to be careful and add washers as you go so you don't bottom out the bolt in the axle shaft. don't use too much pressure. its only grease you're squishing.
again putting shock bushing washers to use
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- Thread starter
- #29
here i am using a luggage scale to check breakaway preload. i found the scale at staples. i like that it's analog.
i had to reuse the old nuts and lock washer that were butchered by POs mechanic until my new parts come ( hopefully tomorrow morning). i filed down the chisel marks and flattened the lock washer. its not best practice to reuse the lock washer. every tab had been previously bent. bend some over away and others toward you to lock the two nuts together.
here is the new flange and gasket
attempting to measure snap ring gap a la 2001LC. at first almost forgot to torque down flange nuts and cone washers. woops. after trying several times with the socket and nut method, i maxed out the gap at 2.4mm a size D snap ring 9052031007. i ordered several different sizes. i almost thought i needed a 2.2mm. if you're replacing bearings you might order those as well for insurance. 9052031008.
i didn't actually button it up. I'lll wait till tomorrow morning. the snap rings are 1 time use and i don't want to use one up just to turn the truck around in the garage so i can start the other side.
i did however mock up the Ironman shocks. they look pretty beefy
i had to reuse the old nuts and lock washer that were butchered by POs mechanic until my new parts come ( hopefully tomorrow morning). i filed down the chisel marks and flattened the lock washer. its not best practice to reuse the lock washer. every tab had been previously bent. bend some over away and others toward you to lock the two nuts together.
here is the new flange and gasket
attempting to measure snap ring gap a la 2001LC. at first almost forgot to torque down flange nuts and cone washers. woops. after trying several times with the socket and nut method, i maxed out the gap at 2.4mm a size D snap ring 9052031007. i ordered several different sizes. i almost thought i needed a 2.2mm. if you're replacing bearings you might order those as well for insurance. 9052031008.
i didn't actually button it up. I'lll wait till tomorrow morning. the snap rings are 1 time use and i don't want to use one up just to turn the truck around in the garage so i can start the other side.
i did however mock up the Ironman shocks. they look pretty beefy
- Thread starter
- #30
i also followed OTRAMMs video on the game plan for how to remove everything and torque the parts after assembly. between OTRAMM and 2001LC I felt very confident i could do this job.
I'll report back after i get the other side done in regards to the clunk. i still have diff bushings coming but no air tools or shop press at my current shelter in place location. so swapping those bushings is going to be hard.
also coming up, the Iron man lift install. torsion bars and rear shocks are next. might put the rear springs in as well. I'm currently thinking I'll go ahead and shoot for the full 2" of lift and put on some 295/70R18. I also will fold over the pinch weld and flatten plastic in wheel well after i put the tires on to demonstrate the difference.
I'll report back after i get the other side done in regards to the clunk. i still have diff bushings coming but no air tools or shop press at my current shelter in place location. so swapping those bushings is going to be hard.
also coming up, the Iron man lift install. torsion bars and rear shocks are next. might put the rear springs in as well. I'm currently thinking I'll go ahead and shoot for the full 2" of lift and put on some 295/70R18. I also will fold over the pinch weld and flatten plastic in wheel well after i put the tires on to demonstrate the difference.
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- Thread starter
- #31
the passenger side CV looked much better than the driver side! this one probably could have just had the flange swapped and been pretty good. i swapped the CV anyway but this one is going to be a trail spare
did you know that the diff oil seal is different for the passenger side than the driver side? and did you further know that napa's part system doesn't know the difference either? i almost was dead in the water after I pulled the seal and my oil seal didn't fit. luckily i found a national seal at oreilys. even says made in japan on the box.
top is driver side. bottom is passenger side.
here is the national brand seal and part number
I updated my parts list on the previous page so someone else doesn't make the same mistake.
did you know that the diff oil seal is different for the passenger side than the driver side? and did you further know that napa's part system doesn't know the difference either? i almost was dead in the water after I pulled the seal and my oil seal didn't fit. luckily i found a national seal at oreilys. even says made in japan on the box.
top is driver side. bottom is passenger side.
here is the national brand seal and part number
I updated my parts list on the previous page so someone else doesn't make the same mistake.
- Thread starter
- #32
Clunk gone.
Compare to previous video. CV play is at the end of this one
But discovered my steering bushings are shot.
Land Cruiser 100 series steering rack bushings bad, excessive movement
also got the ironman lift installed today! finished after dark so pictures will have to wait until tomorrow.
i questioned which spring to use on which side. but the the rear springs were clearly labeled D/S and N/S. According to ironman the driver side goes on the heavy side. regardless of Australia or US, just put the one marked DS on the driver side. they are the same height but they look like they have a different spring rate to me. but now that i look at the pictures they look the same.(see update in post 35. I may switch them)
the torsion bars on the other hand are marked left and right. and that's how i used them. they are already marked from iron man with the white mark and in the right direction. these aren't meant to be switched.
basically just follow the markings. if you over think it you're wrong.
i also was a little confused on the shocks how i was supposed to use all the bushings and washers because my old shocks didn't have them all. just put them in this order with the little bushing sandwiches on top and bottom. i couldn't fit them all on the fronts. you can slide that bump stop bushing inside the dust cover a little lower to get more length but i still had to omit the internal washers (the ones with the bigger ID) on the front shocks. if you need it there is an 8mm turning flat on the top of the shaft.
btw changing those rear shocks sux! i knew i needed a ratcheting 22mm to remove the old shocks but thought i needed a swivel head because of a video i watched. couldn't find one locally so decided to just give it a whirl. the swivel head wasn't necessary. the 22 mm ratcheting wrench they had at home depot would have worked. BUT the ironman shocks use a top nut that is only 19mm. so if you do this lift you need both sizes. i wouldn't have been prepared for that and home depot closed early due to this corona virus business. as it was I suffered for over an hour using 2 open ended wrenches turning at best 1/8th of a turn at a time. it was time consuming but a 1 on the banana scale
.
Compare to previous video. CV play is at the end of this one
But discovered my steering bushings are shot.
Land Cruiser 100 series steering rack bushings bad, excessive movement
also got the ironman lift installed today! finished after dark so pictures will have to wait until tomorrow.
i questioned which spring to use on which side. but the the rear springs were clearly labeled D/S and N/S. According to ironman the driver side goes on the heavy side. regardless of Australia or US, just put the one marked DS on the driver side. they are the same height but they look like they have a different spring rate to me. but now that i look at the pictures they look the same.(see update in post 35. I may switch them)
the torsion bars on the other hand are marked left and right. and that's how i used them. they are already marked from iron man with the white mark and in the right direction. these aren't meant to be switched.
basically just follow the markings. if you over think it you're wrong.
i also was a little confused on the shocks how i was supposed to use all the bushings and washers because my old shocks didn't have them all. just put them in this order with the little bushing sandwiches on top and bottom. i couldn't fit them all on the fronts. you can slide that bump stop bushing inside the dust cover a little lower to get more length but i still had to omit the internal washers (the ones with the bigger ID) on the front shocks. if you need it there is an 8mm turning flat on the top of the shaft.
btw changing those rear shocks sux! i knew i needed a ratcheting 22mm to remove the old shocks but thought i needed a swivel head because of a video i watched. couldn't find one locally so decided to just give it a whirl. the swivel head wasn't necessary. the 22 mm ratcheting wrench they had at home depot would have worked. BUT the ironman shocks use a top nut that is only 19mm. so if you do this lift you need both sizes. i wouldn't have been prepared for that and home depot closed early due to this corona virus business. as it was I suffered for over an hour using 2 open ended wrenches turning at best 1/8th of a turn at a time. it was time consuming but a 1 on the banana scale
.
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I'm excited to hear how they work for you, I just bought the, "Performance Springs," today.
- Thread starter
- #34
i tackled the diff bushing project last night. i have a friend with an air compressor coming over today since i don't have mine with me. but i tried my hand at the hammer and chisel method. removing the old bushing wasn't too bad. but getting the febest replacement back in was a pain. took 20 minutes to get the old one out but 2 or 3 hours to get the new one in. i have a short version of the bushing install video uploaded but I'll upload a longer version to show all the things that didn't work.
sorry for the crapy framing of shots at times.
at the end of the video you can see that there isn't much improvement in the movement of the diff compared to before. i think that is about how much movement is designed into the mounts. but it doesn't clunk though. that was removed by the new CVs and hub flanges.
youtu.be
sorry for the crapy framing of shots at times.
at the end of the video you can see that there isn't much improvement in the movement of the diff compared to before. i think that is about how much movement is designed into the mounts. but it doesn't clunk though. that was removed by the new CVs and hub flanges.
Land Cruiser 100 series driveline clunk
1st shot is rear diff bushing which is completely shot. The driveshaft is rotating quite a bit. 2nd shot is front bushing which shows play 3rd shot is showin...
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- Thread starter
- #35
tested the Land Cruiser and Ironman suspension out today! accidentally discovered a new trail and it was awesome! the ironman suspension felt pretty stiff at first but after the 7 miles of trail it smoothed way out. the 
agress that the ride is almost as good as the stock ride its not quite as soft but the handling improved. the off road ride improved dramatically. i didn't even air down and bumps and ruts were much softer than previously.
I'm not sure if it settled yet but when I first installed the rear springs, the PS was 1" higher than my DS. thought i might have to switch them. but after the trail ride the DS strangely increased to match it seemed. The torsion bars have settled down about 1/2". the rears at 23" hub to fender are more than i was expecting, about 3" over the stock height. I'll turn the TBs up a little more. they were at 19 before the lift. looking for 21 but i don't really want a 2" rake.
pictures!
agress that the ride is almost as good as the stock ride its not quite as soft but the handling improved. the off road ride improved dramatically. i didn't even air down and bumps and ruts were much softer than previously.I'm not sure if it settled yet but when I first installed the rear springs, the PS was 1" higher than my DS. thought i might have to switch them. but after the trail ride the DS strangely increased to match it seemed. The torsion bars have settled down about 1/2". the rears at 23" hub to fender are more than i was expecting, about 3" over the stock height. I'll turn the TBs up a little more. they were at 19 before the lift. looking for 21 but i don't really want a 2" rake.
pictures!
Luke111
Supporting Vendor
You may want to add a diff drop taking the CV's back to the stock angle. Both sides leaked after lifting my truck and with all the worked you've done up front it would be a shame if those new CV's started leaking. Went back and read your earlier post ..you discuss only cranking the TB 1 inch.. which makes sense but you may get tired of the rake which I did. Cranking my TB where I had a 1 inch rake they leaked ...they did not tear tear.
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- Thread starter
- #37
im doing an experiment. i theorize the new CVs won't leak despite the angle since they're new. if they just start leaking I'll tighten up the clamps. i have the tool for it.
i almost bought a diff drop because everyone says you need it. we'll see. leaking boots isn't a big deal IMO. if i can't fix it with my method I'll add one.
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Luke111
Supporting Vendor
I understand and have read about guys tighten the clamps but at $200 for the peace of mind and not checking them every time you drive your truck you should consider it before you move.
If you change your mind Jason at Trail Taylor just received 150 diff drops and they are on sale.
100 Series IFS Differential Drop Crossmember
- Thread starter
- #39
DIY alignment was today's project. I was concerned that my camber might be off and the caster wasnt what it could be. i recently learned that you can get a pretty decent alignment yourself at home. sure the alignment shops have the fancy equipment and are very accurate, but my experience with them is that they are lazy as well, usually only adjusting toe and not even touching the cam bolts. i don't know where to get a good alignment around here. dealer maybe, but i thought id try it myself. bought a kinda expensive digital level that reads to a 1/10th of a degree. and i bought some steel c channel and cut it down to the diameter of my wheels which turns out to be around 20" for these 18" tundra wheels. the level sticks to the steel via magnet. ended up adding a couple disc magnets to the top and bottom where it touches the rim so the channel could clear the hub and i could get the level right in the center of the wheel.
turns out my camber was almost perfect. .1 degree positive on the left and dead on 0 on the passenger side. so next i checked caster. as i understand it you turn the wheel to the right and take the same measurement as you did with the camber then turn it left and subtract the difference in the measurements. here's a video that explains it simply.
that guys tacoma has cam bolts on the LCA but the land cruiser adjusts on the Upper control arm. so we need to move the UCA backward instead of the LCA forward as in the video.
so after measuring what camber and caster already was i took a look at the camber bolts. first though, take a look at these images from the FSM that i found in another thread.
the second image shows the theoretical cam positions at stock ride height. but you can image that if you make the forward cam move outboard and the rear cam move inward, the Upper balljoint will move backwards and in board. this will give us more positive caster but also more camber. almost all my cam bolts were at a neutral position like the first FSM picture. this should theoretically mean that i have some adjustment to gain caster.
my caster before adjustment i measured at 1.8 degrees on the DS and 2.1 on the PS. so i took a look at the DS first. first i removed the splash guards
will continue in next post.
turns out my camber was almost perfect. .1 degree positive on the left and dead on 0 on the passenger side. so next i checked caster. as i understand it you turn the wheel to the right and take the same measurement as you did with the camber then turn it left and subtract the difference in the measurements. here's a video that explains it simply.
that guys tacoma has cam bolts on the LCA but the land cruiser adjusts on the Upper control arm. so we need to move the UCA backward instead of the LCA forward as in the video.
so after measuring what camber and caster already was i took a look at the camber bolts. first though, take a look at these images from the FSM that i found in another thread.
the second image shows the theoretical cam positions at stock ride height. but you can image that if you make the forward cam move outboard and the rear cam move inward, the Upper balljoint will move backwards and in board. this will give us more positive caster but also more camber. almost all my cam bolts were at a neutral position like the first FSM picture. this should theoretically mean that i have some adjustment to gain caster.
my caster before adjustment i measured at 1.8 degrees on the DS and 2.1 on the PS. so i took a look at the DS first. first i removed the splash guards
will continue in next post.
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- Thread starter
- #40
first mark the cam bolts so you can return them if you need to. this is my driver side front before adjustment
next with vehicle on the ground at ride height on a level surface, loosen the cam bolt. its a 19 on one end and a 22 on the other.
you can then use a 27mm wrench or socket wrench to adjust the cam bolt in or out. thus is actually on the passenger side.
i adjusted the front cam all the way out.
i tried adjusting the rear cam all the way on the PS but it resulted on too much camber. .5 degrees. so i adjusted it back out until my camber measured zero again. you can just make an adjustment then check camber immediately
i got another .5 degrees of positive caster on the DS and corrected camber to exactly 0.0
the passenger side i did the same thing but ended up reducing caster down to 1.9. it was already adjusted for max caster it was capable of but it also pulled to the right ever so slightly. iirc now i have 2.3 degrees caster on the DS and 1.9 on the PS. i re torqued the UCA bolts and drove to a parking lot to measure tow. i need to adjust toe a little i believe but wasn't able to loosen the TRE before it got dark. so I'll update that process tomorrow. but it was incredibly close as is.
i took a drive around the block, though not on the highway. seems to track straight and have better return to center than before but it might be in my head.
btw my hub to fender height is now at 21 1/8" on the DS and 21.5" on the PS. it might settle a touch more or i might back off the PS to match but i think the alignment is close enough until i find a specialist or i get some aftermarket UCAs.
next with vehicle on the ground at ride height on a level surface, loosen the cam bolt. its a 19 on one end and a 22 on the other.
you can then use a 27mm wrench or socket wrench to adjust the cam bolt in or out. thus is actually on the passenger side.
i adjusted the front cam all the way out.
i tried adjusting the rear cam all the way on the PS but it resulted on too much camber. .5 degrees. so i adjusted it back out until my camber measured zero again. you can just make an adjustment then check camber immediately
i got another .5 degrees of positive caster on the DS and corrected camber to exactly 0.0
the passenger side i did the same thing but ended up reducing caster down to 1.9. it was already adjusted for max caster it was capable of but it also pulled to the right ever so slightly. iirc now i have 2.3 degrees caster on the DS and 1.9 on the PS. i re torqued the UCA bolts and drove to a parking lot to measure tow. i need to adjust toe a little i believe but wasn't able to loosen the TRE before it got dark. so I'll update that process tomorrow. but it was incredibly close as is.
i took a drive around the block, though not on the highway. seems to track straight and have better return to center than before but it might be in my head.
btw my hub to fender height is now at 21 1/8" on the DS and 21.5" on the PS. it might settle a touch more or i might back off the PS to match but i think the alignment is close enough until i find a specialist or i get some aftermarket UCAs.
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