Builds Project Lockjaw-1973 Fj40 on Tons (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter bluehawk
- Start date
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Ditcherman
SILVER Star
According to pictures of CCOT and one Mud result that came up you are correct now as they are.
I have no idea how mine are on, I just know I got my bib on right.
I have no idea how mine are on, I just know I got my bib on right.
Mike Shull
Let’s go…
2025:
1995:
1995:
Last edited:
Blue, could you snap a pic of the gap in the side apron with that alignment of hood, bib, fenders ? I have resigned myself to the hood overhang. Sometins bent or my body mounts are not where they used to be from impact, frame twist, hard rocker smashes, etc....
Such a cool build, great build !
Yeah, I saw that and was curious, IMO it's just what hood you got and how the cowl was set with that piece where the vent is which you get what you get.
Could add a bit to the hood, has the brace back along that edge so shouldnt warp, depends on how you like your gaps ?
Could add a bit to the hood, has the brace back along that edge so shouldnt warp, depends on how you like your gaps ?
thatcabledude
GOLD Star
Man, this thing has came together awesomely.
bluehawk
Appalachia Cruisers
- Thread starter
- #732
So we are mocking up the radiator housing and trying to figure out room for an electric fan. Also looking at the Vintage Air AC condenser kit. For those of you running a LS, what are you doing for water pump clearance? Can the snout of the factory water pump pulley be cut off? Should I go to an electric water pump for more clearance?
My LS is running the factory fan clutch. Tons of room between radiator and engine.
I don’t like electric fans but that’s me.
I don’t like electric fans but that’s me.
This gives you an idea of how much room I had.
The ring I welded to the factory 40 shroud was 3” wide,
The ring I welded to the factory 40 shroud was 3” wide,
bluehawk
Appalachia Cruisers
- Thread starter
- #735
Gotcha ya….I’m all custom with the 4Runner frame and making a crossmember for the radiator housing. Vintage Air says the radiator housing needs to be moved back about 1 1/4”. So with the condenser, radiator housing, and an electric fan it all measures about 8.5”. That would put the electric fan into the snout of the water pump pulley. I really don’t want to move the engine back
I forgot about the frame swap.
Ditcherman
SILVER Star
I don’t know anything about LS, but I will share a mistake I made, this might help if you don’t have your radiator yet; when we were mocking up the radiator support and frame we stuck the OEM headlights and buckets in and decided that’s the width we had to work with, the way the OEM headlights stick back in the engine compartment. The City Racer headlights I ended up using were much lower profile to the rear, and had a pigtail, we could have gone wider with the radiator and possibly bigger fans.
I have a stock 40 radiator in stock location, with a LS using stock gm clutch fan. By your pics engine location looks very close, I can measure from front of clutch to radiator and see whats left after the 1/25" for the Vintage cooler, might be plenty. You could also modify the radiator screen to fit the mesh part into bib so same effect from outside and you pick up like 3/4" right where you need it, I bet that mod would allow your elec fan too.
I’m in the Electric fan category. I run a Taurus fan on a stock radiator. The radiator is in the stock position. I really like this fan.
My engine is pretty far back. This is a result of using the old 350 mounts and LS adapters. when I was running the 350, the snout went just barely into the webbing for the fan. I had cut a relief into it and never had any trouble no matter how flex I got.
