Project LandROC (1 Viewer)

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Good job on lots of hard work. I prefer the first page however. Too bad a boned out chevy converted fj40 couldn't have been found instead of this really neat and perfect restoration candidate with original low miles. <wince>

I agree.

However, the quality of your work appears to be top-notch.
 
Awesome job dude!!!! looking great, the camaro 700r4 though has a thin case, I had to switch to a 700r4 out of a blazer with a K case because the camaro one busted front and back. You can feel the difference between the 2 tranny cases in weight and the good ones are stamped with a big K. If you don't plan on wheeling, probably not a big deal.......just tryin' to help -Matt
 
What would this build look like if you had a few under your belt?

Fellow IH8muders, thanks a bunch for all your inspirationally comments!

Thank you, you bring up some very valid points. I have never done anything like this before and I know that there might need to be some changes made to this setup. I greatly appreciate your thoughts and thank you for taking the time to read my thread.
I can't wait to see what you could do with a couple of these under your belt. Your work is amazing!!
 
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Day 101

@ mattcamp, Thank you for the heads up on the 700r4. I did not know there was a difference in strength between a car and 4X4 transmissions. Where would the “K” stamp be located on the 4X4 model?

Moving day, Project LandROC took its first voyage via flat bed to my new shop. It has a lot less space but its only 10 minutes from my house.
 
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ECU

Awesome job, This is going to be an extremely bad ride.
One question, Are you going to use the IROC ECU or are you using an aftermarket and if so which one?
another question: the antiwrap device--did you fab that or source it?
Thanks
Gary
 
@ gwalt584 (Gary), thanks for the support. I plan on using the IROC ECU (SVC# 16198259) because it came with the car and I also have the matching painless wire harness. I most likely will reprogram it though to better match to the vehicle and get more horse power.

The antiwrap device was mixture of fabrication and out sourcing. Ruffstuff sells a kit that includes all the heims, bongs, bushings and axle mounting plates. Those guys at Ruffstuff are great people! I had to create the shackle, arms and cross member. Together it’s a beefy antiwrap system. So far I very happy with it.
 
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@ gwalt584 (Gary), thanks for the support. I plan on using the IROC ECU (SVC# 16198259) because it came with the car and I also have the matching painless wire harness. I most likely will reprogram it though to better match to the vehicle and get more horse power.

The antiwrap device was mixture of fabrication and out sourcing. Ruffstuff sells a kit that includes all the heims, bongs, bushings and axle mounting plates. Those guys at Ruffstuff are great people! I had to create the shackle, arms and cross member. Together it’s a beefy antiwrap system. So far I very happy with it.

Thanks for that information. Your work is extemely inspiring.
Keep it up. I will check out Ruffstuff.
Gary
 
What is the application for the fuel tank, that looks like a really sweet fit. what are your intentions for some sort of a skid plat to protect it. Are your going to remove the front tank or keep it too.

Im also in the bay area.

San Jose
 
@ Bug Gut, I got the gas tank from an 1992 S10. It’s a smug fit and took a little customizing to get it to line up right. I had to move the shock mount cross member forward 1 ½ inches. I used the factory mounts but those also had to modified.

I am not using the FJ40 factory tank and plan to incorporate a skid plate when I build the rear bumper. I was thinking of using an aluminum sheet that bolts to the bumper and wraps the bottom of the tank to the front of the tank.
 
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Whats next, part A

Finally got some time to plan on what’s next on Project LandROC, bumpers! Looked all over mud and borrowed a few ideas (thanks guys) and came up with a few of my own. Threw them all together in CAD software to see how everything was going to look before I broke ground. I order parts from A to Z Fabrication and McMaster Carr and will be using 5” x 3” x 0.25” (front and rear main bumpers) and 2” x 3” x 0.25” (tire carrier) tubing. Hope to have them completed soon. More pictures will follow.

The front bumper.
 
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Bumper plans look good.
 
Part 2

Much thanks for all the kind comments fellow IH8MUDERS!!!
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Finally got some time to plan on what’s next on Project LandROC, bumpers! Looked all over mud and borrowed a few ideas (thanks guys) and came up with a few of my own. Threw them all together in CAD software to see how everything was going to look before I broke ground. I order parts from A to Z Fabrication and McMaster Carr and will be using 5” x 3” x 0.25” (front and rear main bumpers) and 2” x 3” x 0.25” (tire carrier) tubing. Hope to have them completed soon. More pictures will follow.

The front bumper.


Wow, this is exactly what I need! I was considering buying a spare tire carrier bumper with a rear storage basket made by Gappy, but I think he no longer fabs these. Was starting to wonder if these CAD programs are easy to use? I have no metal fab skills, but I'm sure there are welding shops near me. What program are you using? And is this CAD hard to teach yourself? Are you going to fab this up yourself? It looks like it is going to bolt on to your rear crossmember? Ok.. thanks for any tips.
 
@ ARC1, I used Pro Engineer for this model. CAD programs are not hard to use at all once you get the hang of it. There are tons of tutorials online to teach you. If you’re not to computer savvy I would recommend taking a class at your local JC to get the basics down first. Once you have a good foundation the rest will come.

Yes, I am going to fabricate this myself. The plan is to bolt it onto the factory cross member using the holes form the bumperetts. I will need to enlarge the hole to at least to 0.5 inches or more for strength. Let me know if you have any other questions.
 
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Final Bumper Design


I made some changes to the rear bumper design. After mocking it up on the rig I noticed it would contact the rear latch. The new design fixed that problem without compromising the strength. Plus it looks much cooler now. They should be done in a few days from now.
 
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