He was prob running Petro Canada Diesel 
Project HDFZJ-80.5
- Thread starter themorb
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- Thread starter
- #42
Ya I was thinking I would compile a complete list with Toyota part numbers when I'm done. Except for the bell housing and backing plate (grr) it should be the same list of parts for any USA gasser to swap in a 5 speed.
Thing of it is..... no smoke. Not even at red lights. Go figure.
Disgusting.
But check out the powder coat on my rear bumper!!!
- Thread starter
- #43
Got the clutch pedal installed and pulled the gasser out of my white truck. The clutch pedal is also different LHD vs RHD. Mine was RHD from Australia, so a bit of scoring, bending, and welding was in order to get it into the right position.
I also learned that older manual 80s had clutch boosters on the higher end trim levels, but newer ones did not. In place of a booster they have a spring pack on the pedal itself. The pedal assembly I got from Oz is the one designed for no booster, however my 1996 USDM FZJ has pre-welded studs on the firewall for the pedal that goes with the booster! Go figure... The non-booster setup requires no studs -- only 2 diagonal holes drilled. Buzzing off the studs was a bit tricky under the dash, but I managed to do it with minimal grinder damage to the floor sound deadener. I think it is simpler with no booster, and also avoided the cost of buying a booster itself. The master cylinder is different for a booster as well.
I was pretty methodical pulling the front clip and engine, using ziplock sandwich bags for all the bolts, labelled as to where they go. Hopefully will help with reassembly. I found that it was easier to unplug the harness behind the glove box and pull it with the engine. All the little sensor plugs are a lot easier to see with the engine out. Then I will plug the harness back in through the firewall and graft the ends into the diesel harness.
It has been stated on Mud before that a 1HD-T will bolt into a USDM FZJ80 with no modification to the engine mounts, but I never really understood how. Turns out the 1FZ-FE and 1HD-T share the same left side mount, but the right side is about 2 inches forward on the 1HD-T compared to the 1FZ-FE. BUT Mr. T graciously provides both options on the USDM 80. (See photo.) But it is interesting that my JDM 80 does NOT have the required hole for a 1FZ-FE. So gassers have the option to upgrade to diesel, but not the other way around...
Two differences I noticed today are the transfer case shifter and the transfer case bolts. My manual transmission did not come with a transfer case, and since I already converted my gasser one to part-time, I was planning to keep it. Two of the bolts go the "other direction" ie. the bolt heads face the engine, and screw into the transfer case. But the flange on the H151 is thinner than the flange on the auto, so the bolts were too long. With about 5 mm cut off, they worked fine.
The transfer case shifter on these trucks bolts to the top of the transmission, and has a simple linkage to the transfer case. However the A343 has a completely different mounting design than the A440/442 and H151. My H151 came with a shifter, but it is slightly different for RHD because it has to fit around the gear shifter that is bent the other direction. Fortunately, an A440/442 in RHD or LHD has the correct shifter, so I was able to use the one from my JDM truck.
Tomorrow I will work on swapping the diesel fuel tank, lines, and filter, and removing the charcoal canister and stuff from the gasser. Then comes what I anticipate will be a tricky job to move the transmission crossmember forward about 2 inches. The holes are there, but no brackets and no captive nuts in the frame. I have an idea of how to make it work, but we shall see...
I have come to the conclusion that this swap would take much much longer and require a lot more
if I didn't have the entire JDM truck in my back yard. Stuff like the shifter, fuel tanks and lines, second battery tray, wiring harnesses, etc, etc, etc. Plus an entire truck full of metric bolts that I can go steal instead of ANOTHER trip to the store. On the other hand, Akella has been EXTREMELY helpful being able to supply all the genuine Toyota LHD diesel parts I need, and at very fair prices. Way faster and easier than waiting for stuff from Australia or Japan, and half the time those guys can't get LHD specific parts anyway.
I also learned that older manual 80s had clutch boosters on the higher end trim levels, but newer ones did not. In place of a booster they have a spring pack on the pedal itself. The pedal assembly I got from Oz is the one designed for no booster, however my 1996 USDM FZJ has pre-welded studs on the firewall for the pedal that goes with the booster! Go figure... The non-booster setup requires no studs -- only 2 diagonal holes drilled. Buzzing off the studs was a bit tricky under the dash, but I managed to do it with minimal grinder damage to the floor sound deadener. I think it is simpler with no booster, and also avoided the cost of buying a booster itself. The master cylinder is different for a booster as well.
I was pretty methodical pulling the front clip and engine, using ziplock sandwich bags for all the bolts, labelled as to where they go. Hopefully will help with reassembly. I found that it was easier to unplug the harness behind the glove box and pull it with the engine. All the little sensor plugs are a lot easier to see with the engine out. Then I will plug the harness back in through the firewall and graft the ends into the diesel harness.
It has been stated on Mud before that a 1HD-T will bolt into a USDM FZJ80 with no modification to the engine mounts, but I never really understood how. Turns out the 1FZ-FE and 1HD-T share the same left side mount, but the right side is about 2 inches forward on the 1HD-T compared to the 1FZ-FE. BUT Mr. T graciously provides both options on the USDM 80. (See photo.) But it is interesting that my JDM 80 does NOT have the required hole for a 1FZ-FE. So gassers have the option to upgrade to diesel, but not the other way around...
Two differences I noticed today are the transfer case shifter and the transfer case bolts. My manual transmission did not come with a transfer case, and since I already converted my gasser one to part-time, I was planning to keep it. Two of the bolts go the "other direction" ie. the bolt heads face the engine, and screw into the transfer case. But the flange on the H151 is thinner than the flange on the auto, so the bolts were too long. With about 5 mm cut off, they worked fine.
The transfer case shifter on these trucks bolts to the top of the transmission, and has a simple linkage to the transfer case. However the A343 has a completely different mounting design than the A440/442 and H151. My H151 came with a shifter, but it is slightly different for RHD because it has to fit around the gear shifter that is bent the other direction. Fortunately, an A440/442 in RHD or LHD has the correct shifter, so I was able to use the one from my JDM truck.
Tomorrow I will work on swapping the diesel fuel tank, lines, and filter, and removing the charcoal canister and stuff from the gasser. Then comes what I anticipate will be a tricky job to move the transmission crossmember forward about 2 inches. The holes are there, but no brackets and no captive nuts in the frame. I have an idea of how to make it work, but we shall see...
I have come to the conclusion that this swap would take much much longer and require a lot more
if I didn't have the entire JDM truck in my back yard. Stuff like the shifter, fuel tanks and lines, second battery tray, wiring harnesses, etc, etc, etc. Plus an entire truck full of metric bolts that I can go steal instead of ANOTHER trip to the store. On the other hand, Akella has been EXTREMELY helpful being able to supply all the genuine Toyota LHD diesel parts I need, and at very fair prices. Way faster and easier than waiting for stuff from Australia or Japan, and half the time those guys can't get LHD specific parts anyway.
Yeppers, tough doing this type of conversion without a donour vehicle..
There is a captured nut insert.
There is a captured nut insert.
- Thread starter
- #45
Please elaborate...
Something like this.. Should be a bit stronger than the original nutserts that work on thinner metals.
http://www.rivetsinstock.com/rivet-nuts-threaded-inserts/threaded-inserts.html
- Thread starter
- #47
Hmmmmmm..... do you really think those will be strong enough to hold the transmission?
My other plan was to snake a coat hanger from the hole out through a larger hole (about one inch) that is in the side of the frame about 10 inches away. Then weld a nut to a thick fender washer and thread it on the coat hanger into the frame and wiggle until it lands where I want it. Then weld the fender washer to the frame from outside (would need to slightly enlarge hole in frame first).
Another option would be to tape a bolt and fender washer to the end of a coat hanger and try to get it to come out of the frame like a stud... And then weld it to stop it from spinning...
My other plan was to snake a coat hanger from the hole out through a larger hole (about one inch) that is in the side of the frame about 10 inches away. Then weld a nut to a thick fender washer and thread it on the coat hanger into the frame and wiggle until it lands where I want it. Then weld the fender washer to the frame from outside (would need to slightly enlarge hole in frame first).
Another option would be to tape a bolt and fender washer to the end of a coat hanger and try to get it to come out of the frame like a stud... And then weld it to stop it from spinning...
Hmmmmmm..... do you really think those will be strong enough to hold the transmission?
We did a few diesel conversions and used this method with standard old nutserts as per Kurts advice from Cruiser Outfitters and never had a problem.. The units I posted up are a much better and stronger option, I am pretty sure it would work...
Kinda like those concrete anchors...
I like the idea of a fender washer or maybe a couple of 3/16 piece of flat bar with a hole drilled in it about the size of the nut, weld it to the flat bar..
If you cold find a nut that is a big longer say inch and a half would work best.
Make the hole in the frame a little bigger than the nut and weld around the nut to frame from the bottom. Finish by running a tap through the nut as the heat will of distorted the nut a bit.
If the flat bar or plate is the width of the inside of the frame and a few inches long you could probably drill a small hole on either side of the frame and plug weld the flat bar to frame?
Not sure if this method would work.
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You could also use a hole saw to make an access point on the frame.
- Thread starter
- #51
That had better be a bottle opener
Actually its a hi-lift point. But I'm sure a thirsty individual could figure out how to open a bottle with it
Here's what I ended up with for my transmission crossmember. Instead of nuts, I decided to just thread in some bolts and tack them so they won't spin when I tighten the nut. Welded tie-wire and threaded from the closest large hole..... worked like a hot dang!
- Thread starter
- #52
Got the motor in!!! Man that thing is tight to the firewall...
I like how they have enlarge the jack notch opening. I was informed I should do likewise to mine, as it was cut to closer to size, and the jack could get stuck and bend the bar, which would really suck.
I've yet to use mine though, just use the sliders for jacking.
Man you are ripping through this project at a fast pace...
Good planning
I might have to buy that 80 I mentioned at the pub and do the swap, auto tho...
You are probably out driving it around already from the sounds of pub night.
Rob
Good planning
I might have to buy that 80 I mentioned at the pub and do the swap, auto tho...
You are probably out driving it around already from the sounds of pub night.
Rob
- Thread starter
- #55
Ya I've been working too hard to take any photos, just trying to get the darn thing done and drivable. The electronics that I have hooked up so far are:
-starter
-fuel cut solenoid
-reverse lights
-oil pressure sender
-water temperature sender
-tachometer
-red/green boost pressure lights
I kept the original transfer case, so nothing changes with those electronics... CDL, speedometer... But I did swap to a metric speedometer (which does NOT say "unleaded fuel only" like the USA one), and I had to swap in the diesel tachometer. Tested all bulbs, and removed the unnecessary ones (CEL, AT temp, etc) and I put a piece of black electrical tape over the PRND21 lights. It is slightly shinier than the surrounding black, but it doesn't look too bad. Flat black spray paint might have been better but... Maybe next time I take it apart to change bulbs.
The only lights which are missing compared to the original JDM cluster are glow plugs and water in fuel filter. I will be able to hear the glow plugs click..... wasn't going to look factory if I tried to hook up a light. And that water in the fuel filter one....... I've never seen it come on, and I tend to change my fuel filter more than necessary so I'm probably ok without it.
Lights, bumper, and hood are all on. Dash is more or less together. Shortened drive shafts are installed (thanks Cam!!!) Only things remaining are:
-exhaust! (needs modifying to fit around different sway bar on newer truck)
-sub fuel tank AND filler with larger hole for diesel pumps (these are both on JDM truck)
-glow plug timer (simple box was under JDM dash, will install in engine bay, plugs into JDM engine harness, just needs ignition power and ground)
-tidy up wires under hood (right now everything is done with crimp connectors and zip ties everywhere... will shorten wires and eliminate unused ones, and solder, heatshrink, and split-loom)
-starter
-fuel cut solenoid
-reverse lights
-oil pressure sender
-water temperature sender
-tachometer
-red/green boost pressure lights
I kept the original transfer case, so nothing changes with those electronics... CDL, speedometer... But I did swap to a metric speedometer (which does NOT say "unleaded fuel only" like the USA one), and I had to swap in the diesel tachometer. Tested all bulbs, and removed the unnecessary ones (CEL, AT temp, etc) and I put a piece of black electrical tape over the PRND21 lights. It is slightly shinier than the surrounding black, but it doesn't look too bad. Flat black spray paint might have been better but... Maybe next time I take it apart to change bulbs.
The only lights which are missing compared to the original JDM cluster are glow plugs and water in fuel filter. I will be able to hear the glow plugs click..... wasn't going to look factory if I tried to hook up a light. And that water in the fuel filter one....... I've never seen it come on, and I tend to change my fuel filter more than necessary so I'm probably ok without it.
Lights, bumper, and hood are all on. Dash is more or less together. Shortened drive shafts are installed (thanks Cam!!!) Only things remaining are:
-exhaust! (needs modifying to fit around different sway bar on newer truck)
-sub fuel tank AND filler with larger hole for diesel pumps (these are both on JDM truck)
-glow plug timer (simple box was under JDM dash, will install in engine bay, plugs into JDM engine harness, just needs ignition power and ground)
-tidy up wires under hood (right now everything is done with crimp connectors and zip ties everywhere... will shorten wires and eliminate unused ones, and solder, heatshrink, and split-loom)
- Thread starter
- #56
Oh yeah, and timing belt light is missing too but..... I think I can count 100,000 kms without a light.
Looking good, where did you get that bumper powder coated. I'm sick of black!
- Thread starter
- #58
Do it! You know I was thinking about it more and I bet the swap wouldn't be that bad without the donor truck if you just order the parts you are missing from Akella. Stuff like the fuel filter holder, fuel lines, tachometer... Will cost a bit, but his prices are very good and you can get it in a couple weeks instead of a couple months from Australia.... if you can even find them all on eBay.
- Thread starter
- #59
Um.......... it's a secret. No it's not but they are saving the rest of that "silver vein" for my front bumper. Victoria Powder Coating. They have lots of other cool colours too. Don't steal my silver vein please! I want matching bumpers
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- #60
Let's see if uploading photos works from my ipad... Got the sub tank switch and boost and EGT gauges wired up. I'm pretty happy with how the gauges turned out!
