Project 180 SAS 100 Series

[40Habits]

With everything set into place, I started to work on the radius arms. I used bushings on the axle end and Johnny Joints for the frame end. To ensure no binding when flexed I used a heim joint for the upper link. The heim joint also gives you the ability to adjust the caster. I then tacked in the links to make sure everything moved properly.

After I took the picture I did shorten the upper link about 4".

 

[40Habits]

To mount the ORI struts I ordered some shock towers from another vendor here on MUD. link -----> Barnes 4WD

The shock towers are really nice quality.

I did have to modify the drivers side shock tower to allow the steering to pass through it.

 

[duggy]

The stock steering shaft bolts directly up to the 80 PS box?

 

[40Habits]

The splines on the shafts are the same but the stock 100 shaft is a little to long.

To make it all work, I cut a few inches out and welded the shaft back together. I then replaced the coupler with a U joint where the shaft comes out of the firewall and removed the flexible coupling (rag joint) inside the cab.

 

[bluecruiser]

So this isn't a plug and play operation? [emoji6] very nice work.


Sent from my iPhone

 

[duggy]

The splines on the shafts are the same but the stock 100 shaft is a little to long.

To make it all work, I cut a few inches out and welded the shaft back together. I then replaced the coupler with a U joint where the shaft comes out of the firewall and removed the flexible coupling (rag joint) inside the cab.

Better long than short. Good to know.

 

[40Habits]

So this isn't a plug and play operation? [emoji6] very nice work.

On the contrary, it was all plug and play. I would plug it in and play with it until it worked.

 

[White Stripe]

Isnt the 100 rear axle stronger than the 80 rear axle? I thought the 100 rear axle has a much stronger pinion???

 

[hoser]

Yes, I believe the 100 rear R&P is stronger and the axle shafts are 32 spline vs 30. On the downside, Semi-floater vs FF though.

 

[TheForger]

Also the 100 series LC rear axle has a 5 bolt pattern- an 80 series rear is 6 bolt.

 

[40Habits]

Isn't the 100 rear axle stronger than the 80 rear axle? I thought the 100 rear axle has a much stronger pinion???

The debate on the strength between the axles would be kind of silly.

They both run a 9.5" R&P. The difference is that the 100 ring bolts to the carrier and the 80 bolts through it. I don't see how the 100 pinion could be much stronger. Besides if you are doing a swap like I did.... chances are you will be upgrading the R&P.

The 100 might have some upgrades but if I had an axle break on the trail, I would prefer to have an 80 full float axle any day.

 

[40Habits]

The steering linkage was done with Ruff Stuff's "Y" Link Steering Using GM 1 Ton TRE.

Here is a comparison of the GM TRE compared to a 80 TRE. The over sized steering components makes me feel a little safer on the trails.

 

[White Stripe]

 

[White Stripe]

Here is a pic of the 100 pinion next to the 80. Notice how the 100 pinion necks down less. This is from the nitro axle 70 series cruiser. They used a 80 rear full float housing with 100 series rear diff and chromoly 32 spline full float shafts for the the 80 housing. Not trying to say you should do this, but since you already have a 100 series differential it is an option for you I thought I would let you know about since you have some of the parts already to go this route if you wanted.
Here is a link to the build:
Just Differentials Project "Inigo" 87 bj73 Landcruiser LHD, from Spain - TTORA Forum

 

[40Habits]

That is interesting, but the pinion is still the same on the flange and teeth and that is most likely where the failure would occur.

For me it is a moot point because nobody makes 5.29 gears for the 100 rear diff. If you were to run 4.88 gears, then it would be an option to consider.

 

[White Stripe]

My concern with your build is really the front differential. Especially with 5.29s which makes for the weakest pinion gear. Depends how hard you plan to use this rig though too. Your birfields will be bulletproof, but I think I would rather have the weak link be the birfields rather than the ring and pinion. Sweet 40 btw. How does it run with the supercharged 3.4??

 

[40Habits]

I don't think I will lose any sleep at night using 5.29's gears. When considering gears I went to Zuk's website http://www.gearinstalls.com/ and read up on his installs, IE: Zuks write up on 5.71s. Also Nitro's 5.29's are 29 spline compared to 27 spline on most gear sets.

Another way to look at it is; if you come to an obstacle with 37" tires and 4.88's and I do the same with 5.29's, I will have more torque to crawl up the obstacle when you might have to bump it and that is usually when things break.

Thank you! I have owned three 40's so far and the 3.4 supercharged is my favorite. The S/C gives it enough torque for any rock crawling and enough horse power to make it fun.

 

[40Habits]

The shock towers were welded in and the ORI's were installed.

The brakes were upgraded to drilled and slotted rotors to help stop the bigger tires.

 

[cybrstar]

The splines on the shafts are the same but the stock 100 shaft is a little to long.

To make it all work, I cut a few inches out and welded the shaft back together. I then replaced the coupler with a U joint where the shaft comes out of the firewall and removed the flexible coupling (rag joint) inside the cab.

Would the 80 stock shaft worked?

Also do you have a picture of how you built the panhard mount on the frame. Did you go under the engine or outside the frame?
Is that a stock panhard from an 80?

How was caster measured on the axle? Leveled at 0 (short arm adjustment or factored when welding in brackets)? Where was the radius kit purchased from (brackets/mounts/joints)? Was a double carden shaft needed? Any vibration issues considering it being an all wheel drive?

"If" you were going to do it again would you have just went with a custom front axle to match the stock 100 width/bolt pattern or stay with the 80's axle's.

I just ask because to look for front and rear locked 80 axle's "I" would be in the custom front axle $$ range and less work to move all the bracketry off the rear axle.

Also how many miles have you put in her since it has been built? Is it a dd?

 

[40Habits]

Your questions are why I started the build thread. Hopefully make it easier for the next guy.

Would the 80 stock shaft worked?

I never had a stock 80 shaft so I am not sure. The shaft I made is roughly 18".

Also do you have a picture of how you built the panhard mount on the frame. Did you go under the engine or outside the frame?

I will try to get a picture of the panhard bracket. I made the bracket but you could easily purchase one from any fab shop.
It mounts to the inside and the bottom of the frame.

Is that a stock panhard from an 80?

No, the stock panhard bar is to short. You might be able to buy an adjustable one from Slee but I made one.

How was caster measured on the axle? Leveled at 0 (short arm adjustment or factored when welding in brackets)?

I measured the caster with a magnetic degree finder. Threading the heim joint in and out will rotate the axle & adjust the caster.

Where was the radius kit purchased from (brackets/mounts/joints)?

Most of the brackets were purchased from Ballistic Fab.

Was a double carden shaft needed?

I didn't use a DC shaft but I did purchase a driveshaft spacer from Low Range Offroad.

Any vibration issues considering it being an all wheel drive?

No, if you get the driveline angles right you shouldn't have any vibration.

"If" you were going to do it again would you have just went with a custom front axle to match the stock 100 width/bolt pattern or stay with the 80's axle's.

I would spend the extra $$ and go the custom axle route. I would keep the custom radius arms and the ORi's. List of parts

I just ask because to look for front and rear locked 80 axle's "I" would be in the custom front axle $$ range and less work to move all the bracketry off the rear axle.

The custom axle would take much less work but you would still need to purchase a diff and those cost almost as much as the whole axle.
I wanted to go with 5.29 gears and that would require an 80 rear diff and the 100 spider gears as well.

Also how many miles have you put in her since it has been built?

I have around a 1,000 miles on it but a lot of those miles have been off the pavement.

Is it a dd?

It's not a daily driver but I wouldn't hesitate to use it as one.