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That's what I ended up doing. I believe that is exactly how is it supposed to work. Went right in.Is there room for the inner tab and the key to fit in the key way? If so, put the inner tab in the key way and use the outer tabs to lock the nut.
Didn't know someone had come up with a solution for this. I'm still listening to CDs.Went ahead and installed my Grom wireless carplay unit. Pretty easy to get wired up. Honestly the hardest part was getting the mic wire from the overhead console to the unit in the glovebox.
Also put in a wireless charger that takes place of the ashtray. Found one on etsy for ~$80 but it's so worth it.View attachment 3879003
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I heard mostly good reviews about the carplay unit so I decided to bite the bullet. They have 2 to choose from, one with an Android OS underneath you can sideload apps to if you want and one cheaper one without that capability. The expensive one runs $680 which is a lot, but they often do a group buy and I saved ~$130.Didn't know someone had come up with a solution for this. I'm still listening to CDs.
And teaching!Here's an action shot of @CrabCake. Got a bit more practicing to do before these are ready, but a step in the right direction for many future projects
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Went to Toyotas and Coffee on Sunday, and on the way back, I noticed some steam/smoke coming out from the underside of the truck.
Wondering if your breather on the rear axle is clogged and letting it build pressure as everything heats up.
check the easy thing first. if you just got it undercoated make sure they didn't clog up the breather s and the heat is forcing the oil out a already bad seal
Wow, hopefully this will get you fixed up without an axle swap!Had some time this evening so I got under the truck and the issue was certainly the breather valve. The entire hose was covered in undercoating and the valve either wouldn’t open or was stuck in a barely open position. Unbolted the bracket, took the assembly inside and after fiddling with the valve for a bit, it seems to be working normally again.
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Topped up the diff with 1.5 quarts of oil and it’s nowhere near full, I think almost everything spewed out. Hopefully the rear pinion seal is still somewhat functional…
there is only one physical lock on the drivers door? nothing on the trunk?Non Toyota (no yotas atm), but my 2016 pilot had been sitting for approx 2 weeks. Doors unlocked w/ fob about week and half ago. Went to unlock doors a week ago today and nothing.
Mechanical lock doesn't work on this either, hasn't for a few years.
Don't want to waste the service call to AAA to have a lock person come out and potentially have to tow it and have to pay someone to fix.
Any suggestions? Would prefer not to break a window. Alreayd got the hood open enough to try and unlatch it but the hood latch doesn't entirely disconnect unless cable is pulled.
I think there is a way to access hood release by removing wheel well liner...
turning old crusty parts into serviceable parts with minimal cash outlay is my kind of party!Spent my lunch break today getting busy with a crud thug and grinding all the undercoating off the skid plate, also trimmed some rust on it. The plate will do its job, it's not the prettiest but I can't justify the cost of a new one right now. Clean it up, rust converter paint ( I know it doesn't work ) and raptor coat or something equivalent will be good enough.
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I did mine not long ago, totally worth it truck has never stopped better. Hop you get it all figured out soonSunday didn’t go so great… filled up the rear diff, went to park the truck in front of the house, about halfway there the ABS light came on and gave me the continuous beep of death. Parked and turned the truck off, pumped the brakes a few times, restarted it, and as soon as I shifted into D, it lurched forward, even though I was on the brake. To top things off, all the diff fluid I had added over the course of the last few days was weeping out of the diff, that seal is 100% shot.
Haven’t managed to pull TechStream codes. I did a quick check under the hood but it was hard to tell if there was any brake fluid in the system at all.
Regardless, the ticking time bomb item in the 100 braking system is the “brake booster pump assembly with accumulator”, right? I think I’m gonna get that replaced as preventative maintenance even if it wasn’t the issue in this specific scenario.