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That would make sense, I looked at my records and it turns out that I actually didn't replace the rear pinion seal. The stuff is all over the underside.In the video it sure looks like rear pinion seal. That's a pretty big leak. Usually they sling oil everywhere. Can't say I've seen one drip steadily like that before. Wondering if your breather on the rear axle is clogged and letting it build pressure as everything heats up.
I'm not 100% sure, but I'm pretty sure you'll need the whole rear axle. If it's like the 80 Series E-locker the shape of the flange where the diff bolts in is different. (There's a notch for the locker fork)That would make sense, I looked at my records and it turns out that I actually didn't replace the rear pinion seal. The stuff is all over the underside.
Guess it's time start the hunt for a 98-99 LC diff with locker... don't want to dump money into the LSD knowing I'm gonna replace it at some point.
I wouldn't say that...just kept clean when not on the trails! Knock on wood, I have't had to pull line yet, including on trails where several 100's & 200's needed recovery help to get through...and 2x got @kevin in okinawa back to camp with the drag line...Didn't realize the 80 was a show rig and not a wheelin rig...
check the easy thing first. if you just got it undercoated make sure they didn't clog up the breather s and the heat is forcing the oil out a already bad seal. The video says no longer available but it is a simple thing if it is.Went to Toyotas and Coffee on Sunday, and on the way back, I noticed some steam/smoke coming out from the underside of the truck. This was at a red light a block from home, so I just pulled in to my parking space, where the steam continued. There was a trail of fluid from the street to the parking spot, not a great sign.
View attachment 3874735
Underneath, there seemed to be some kind of residue all over the undercarriage, which wasn’t too surprising, since I had the underside coated with a Woolwax based product almost two months ago. I did powerwash the exterior of the vehicle on Sunday as well, I’m sure I got some water into the frame while washing the rock sliders etc but I didn’t really go underneath.
View attachment 3874741
I did have a leaky transfer case for a while, so there was definitely some transfer case fluid all over, but I haven’t noticed any smoke or puddles before. Transfer case seals, diff seals, and the rear main seal were all replaced around a year ago.
View attachment 3874746
I then swabbed the oily residue on the ground and took a few more samples on the axles and various parts of the frame, and they all matched. Interestingly it seemed like this residue also matched what I swabbed from the AHC globes, which are on the outer side of the frame (and thus would be less likely to end up covered in engine or transfer case oil, I’d imagine).
I guess the only thing to do is to check the engine and transfer case oil levels before driving the truck again? I would hope that the undercoating isn’t washing off in under two months…
Video underneath in case anyone is curious.
I have their kit bumper on the rear of the 100. Lots of help getting it together, but I like it very much. Clean design and functional.Ordered my 4x4 Labs rear bumper do-it-yourself kit. I spoke to Luke at Labs and he has some special cut pieces to account for my LRA tank and has the kits in stock to ship this week. Helping my son @An3 mock up and weld some sliders for his Explorer this weekend for some wire burning practice!
You can’t go wrong with 4x4 Labs. I’ve had 2 sets of there NLA high steer arms. And Luke has been awesome to deal with. There DIY bumper can be daunting to put together but it’s was fun doing @Von HayekOrdered my 4x4 Labs rear bumper do-it-yourself kit. I spoke to Luke at Labs and he has some special cut pieces to account for my LRA tank and has the kits in stock to ship this week. Helping my son @An3 mock up and weld some sliders for his Explorer this weekend for some wire burning practice!
I agree. But, you cannot but the washer on the crank nut without bending the interior tab. I'm assuming it is meant to bent not the key slot inside the crank pulley.The 2F manual isn't very clear, but it says to lock the nut with the lock plate. I'm quessing it works like the star washer on the front hubs.