Trying to fill the fj62 shaped void in my heart. Also did the Delta VS panhard drop bracket.
My arm is mostly working again. Still taking it easy/more slowly
just slowly take it one bolt at a time!
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Trying to fill the fj62 shaped void in my heart. Also did the Delta VS panhard drop bracket.
My arm is mostly working again. Still taking it easy/more slowly
Tried doing that, heat made things a bit easier but the damn hose still didn’t want to go on. I realized that it wasn’t going to come on today so I ended up giving the old airbox a slight beheading and it fit easily.Try heating the outer hose and/or cooling the inner hose.
Did the same to my mother's 2005 VW Passat last winter. As you say, a real nuisance maintenance item. Worst part for me was trying to get the rassa-frassin' boot clamps on. The large side ones were just barely undersized to the point you couldn't get them on the joint if they were "clipped" and couldn't get them clipped if they were on the joint. I think half my entire time on the project was spent dealing with just those two boot clamps. You can see the difference in how much crush there was on each here.
I did get one productive thing done this weekend - we finished painting the bumper with Steel-It. However, when it was time to put it back on the frame, I took a better look underneath to see why some of the bolts weren’t going in. 4/6 of them are mangled to the point that it’s not possible to thread them by hand. Worth just sending it with the impact wrench?
YES, please tap first...if you impact them in, chances are they won't come back out ever again if/when you need them too...you may think that it's going to be a permanent install, but that's almost never the case for some reason or another.If talking about the captive nuts in the frame as pictured... might clean them up with a tap and not risk it.
Yeah, I was quite amped! Still curious to why the compression was so low on the first check...I know that the EGR system was still acting up at the time of the test, but not sure how it could cause that effect. I can only assume (and was suggested by others) that it caused a temporary valve issue as rings aren't going to heal themselves. I had as much power on the road trip as ever, and kept up pretty well with general traffic with some selective OD on/off action on the hills, so I suspect that it's as OEM powerful as it's going to get (or ever was). No problem keeping up with all of the 80's on the trip heading to/from the trails, cruising 65-70 and sometimes a bit more when needed.That is super great news about the misfire I am sure I am not as happy as you are that you don't have to do some major work!
now.... lets get that trailer inspected so it can then get sanded, primed and painted a matching white to the 80! Have to keep up land cruiser appearances as well as it will help you find the trailer after a nice night of "friendship" around the camp fire! That camo will make things harder!
Glad to hear that you are able to get out and wrench just a bit...I absolutely hate being laid up by an injury!Trying to fill the fj62 shaped void in my heart. Also did the Delta VS panhard drop bracket.
My arm is mostly working again. Still taking it easy/more slowly
View attachment 3683342View attachment 3683343View attachment 3683345View attachment 3683346View attachment 3683347
That captive nut inside the frame can also snap off.Worst case, you'll impact them in and the'll either only go half way, or you'll break the bolts and then have a LOT more to do to drill and then re-tap.
If talking about the captive nuts in the frame as pictured... might clean them up with a tap and not risk it.
Noted, I'll see what I can get done tapping-wise. I can probably get a nut on top if necessary as well, hadn't even thought of that option but I like it. This is really helpful!YES, please tap first...if you impact them in, chances are they won't come back out ever again if/when you need them too...you may think that it's going to be a permanent install, but that's almost never the case for some reason or another.
If you don't feel that the bolt grab is strong enough after cleaning up the threads, can you get a nut on the top if needed?
I'm a bit on edge with the bottom unit since it seems like there was certainly some kind of leak in at least a few places... a lot of that can probably be attributed to an improper seal (since half the clips were missing). If I decide to just keep using this one, I'll probably scavenge the remaining clips from the replacement box. For now, it has a new top unit and filter, and of course I cleaned the MAF as well. Damn, that thing was muddy!Airbox wise, as long as the dirt, mud, and bugs are on the dirty side of the filter, that's what it's there for...pop her back on and wheel on!![]()
Noted, I'll see what I can get done tapping-wise. I can probably get a nut on top if necessary as well, hadn't even thought of that option but I like it. This is really helpful!
I thought M8x1.25 was the common thread pitch, but I've been wrong before.
you doing the t-case work yourself?Ordered the 10% under drive gear, time to pull the T-case soon…after I do brakes and rotors on my wife’s Mini first!
Yeah, Tool Man Timmy does a nice 4 part vid on youtube with Jorge from Valley Hybrids/Cruiser Brothers on the full monty rebuild. He thoroughly explains everything and why along with great tips and tool suggestions (common tools that I have). Shouldn't be too tough I expect.you doing the t-case work yourself?
good news on the engine health!
Already has Marlin crawler and 4:56’s thanks to PO…We did a few rigs down in RVA recently. Not too bad. You should do the 3:1 tcase gears at the same time if you haven’t already. You’ll have to pull that shaft out as well