Pretty quiet in here... what are you working on? (3 Viewers)

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I'm just over 2.5 acres. A tractor would certainly be a want, not a need but over the last 8 years here I've piled up quite a list of projects (literally and figuratively) a tractor would help me knock down. I need to replace over a 1000 feet of fence (posts and wire), got several brush piles I need to move or consolidate, a fairly large garden to till and several trees I'll need to drop and move. Then there's the dirt work associated with a future barn/workshop build I'd like to take on soon. I have a 61in Scag zero turn so no mowing duties for the tractor. I will definitely get the 3rd function and a grapple, undecided on the BH but leaning to go ahead and get it. I could probably get away with rental equipment but I like to work at my own pace so would rather have something that could handle most of what I want to do and then I can do it when I want to do it. Right now I'm leaning towards the Kioti CX2510. It's dry weight is ~2200 pounds so with loader and filed tires it'll be right at 3000. Dimensionally it's only a little bigger than the JD 1025R but quite a bit smaller than the 2032/38 or L2501. Kioti also uses the same 1.6L engine in there 25-34 HP tractors (pre tier 4) so increasing the HP on this engine is a matter of turning up the fueling. Not that I'll do that right off but kinda cool to have that option post-warranty.

I'm torn b/c my 4 year old son bleeds JD green but the Kioti is about $4k less than a comparably equiped 1025R.
 
Kioti makes a good tractor.

Based on your needs I'd hedge towards the BH too since you already got the mowing covered with the scag. For the fencing you might want to rent a mini ex with a hydraulic auger for a day or two. Yank the old posts out real quick and hydraulic augers are reversible which will save you a lot of time redrilling for when the auger inevitably gets stuck on roots or rocks. Then rip out any stumps you have around before returning it.

Will be interested to follow your tractor projects.
 
Go get pricing and sit on them a few times. I would look at dealers south on 81 even as far as down my way. They will really work with you on the price.
 
Installed a set of @LandCruiserPhil 's heavy duty rear sway bar links and some @Delta VS bump stop drop brackets. All this in prep for some beefy Dobinsons IMS shocks I picked up from @crikeymike at Exit Off Road. I only broke off 2 bolts in the process and that's with using the induction bolt breaker. Had to drill one out and the second had enough meat left to get it out with a vice grips.

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iptman said:
Installed a set of @LandCruiserPhil 's heavy duty rear sway bar links and some @Delta VS bump stop drop brackets. All this in prep for some beefy Dobinsons IMS shocks I picked up from @crikeymike at Exit Off Road. I only broke off 2 bolts in the process and that's with using the induction bolt breaker. Had to drill one out and the second had enough meat left to get it out with a vice grips.

View attachment 2533537View attachment 2533540
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Hahaha. Love the photo next to the beer!!
 
What’s in the box(es)?

C4C80022-06DB-444B-A8E7-ABB8DDDE73D4.jpeg


New CV half-shafts (will reboot the old ones and keep as spares) and sliders just waiting for a warm-ish day (or two). Also have new, beefed up front & back swaybar links (also waiting for the same warm-ish day or two)...
 
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Quick jack?
 
OK, so my 40 runs and drives great. My garage is organized and clean. All my bins are stacked and labeled.

It just doesn’t feel right.....

So, I’m gonna pull the motor out of my rig, and address all the mechanical ugliness lurking under the hood which, while functional, is just wrong.

Primary objectives are to:

- Replace Mickey Mouse power steering pump and hoses
- Replace old air pump with Mark C. idler wheel
- Install complete desmog kit
- Fix alternator bracket
- Replace carb top K&N air filter with OEM Toyota air filter housing
- Replace squeaking throw out bearing
- Resurface pressure plate and replace clutch
- Inspect for possible broken/worn teeth on fly wheel
- Fix oil leak in transfer case
- Install correct OEM oil cooler coolant hoses
- Install heater, fan, and associated plumbing/wiring
- Detail and paint engine, make it look pretty.
- Replace crappy incorrectly routed exhaust system.
- Fix the other 437 things I’m forgetting

I figure it’s easier to do all this with the drivetrain out of the truck. I already rebuilt everything south of the transfer case this spring including the axles.

The good news is the motor only has 5000mi on a fresh rebuild. It’s just everything connected to the motor needs attention.

It’ll probably take me a few months. Comments, advice, and wise cracks are encouraged.
 
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I wanted to find out what kind of shape my latest purchase was. A little rusted flakey paint in the rear but solid. I took off the rusted nerf bars and hand polished the paint and took off the visors. Not too bad. I stuck some fuses in and hooked a jump box to it and checked the electronics. Everything seems to work. I shifted the tcase a bunch but can not get the cdl light to come on and the lockers just blink. All in all happy with it so far!

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F55C58EB-DDD1-4D00-A68C-2D5B298D680A.jpeg
 
BullRunOverland said:
It may just nee the uv sensor cleaned.
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The pilot is rusted or cracked. Its releasing gas lower than where the ignitor is. I removed the glass and fake logs and held a lighter to see if it was a gas issue and the pilot was lighting at the base instead of where it should've been. Everytime I let go of the pilot button to switch to "on" it just died. So I'm thinking the gas isn't getting all the way up to where it should because of this leak
 
afgman786 said:
The pilot is rusted or cracked. Its releasing gas lower than where the ignitor is. I removed the glass and fake logs and held a lighter to see if it was a gas issue and the pilot was lighting at the base instead of where it should've been. Everytime I let go of the pilot button to switch to "on" it just died. So I'm thinking the gas isn't getting all the way up to where it should because of this leak
Click to expand...
Remind me not to let you look for fuel leaks on my rig 🤣😂 but seriously man just use some soapy water to check for leaks hell I think Windex even works
 
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