Pretty quiet in here... what are you working on? (12 Viewers)

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Deets on the hook replacement. Have you learned how to do the resplice, fid and all? I just found a number of decent vids that walk one through the process. I need to learn that at some point, plus get the necessary splice tools.

I thought I fixed the no idle, however on my recent trial run, it kept dying at stops, (choke was off, but needed higher revs) so I need to go back to the beginning and run all the other checks e.g., recheck power to idle solenoid, fuses, vacuum leaks, idle circuit blockage, but with no garage and winter not far off, the car cover goes on this weekend.

Also, found a leak after heavy rains coming from under dash somewhere, so might be coming in under windshield.
 
Is synthetic line that much better? Going to be getting a winch soon and the price difference is $300. My logic was by the steel line and then later on down the line if I ever need or want to replace I'll buy synthetic line. Thoughts?
 
Thank you Master @emorth for guiding me along the way and teaching me how to wire correctly.

Finally got the rear hatch light that's been on the shelf for 1.5yrs wired up. When I ran the hot to the cargo light and asked my dad to help hold it so I could solder his response was if its twisted well enough why don't you just tape it and call it done, its not like it'll be moving. I looked at him and said no, that is something the old me that you made fun of for half assing things would do.

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Is synthetic line that much better? Going to be getting a winch soon and the price difference is $300. My logic was by the steel line and then later on down the line if I ever need or want to replace I'll buy synthetic line. Thoughts?
Synthetic is lighter, stronger and safer to handle and operate. It is more susceptible to UV requires some maintenance, like rinsing it off once in a while.
 
I think I finally got my oil pan job done. What I thought was an oil pan leak was definitely the fuel pump. I don't know what I was smoking thinking it was going to seal with as much of the old gasket that was still fused to the block. I was able to get my pneumatic angle die grinder in there with a small wire wheel and get it down to iron. I still went ahead and use some FIPG on either side of the new gasket just to be sure.

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While checking for leaks after a 10 minute warm up drive I noticed the coolant hose coming off the oil cooler weeping coolant from what looks like the reenforcement threads of the hose. After a couple hours the coolant dried up and I see no drips. Anyone seen this before?

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Hose is probably breaking down internally I would replace it myself
 
Hose is probably breaking down internally I would replace it myself
THIS.
The hose is starting to fail internally and the antifreeze is travelling down the fiberglass reinforcing cords in the hose and out. I would park it until it is fixed.
 
I actually had the hose on hand so dove right in. Got the radiator drained and cought the coolant in a bin but when I pulled the hose off the oil cooler I got probably another gallon out. Luckily I put down a metal work tray and I was able to grab another pan to catch most of it. I was only able to get just shy of 3 gallons back in out of the 4.7 capacity. I've seen the term "burp" the coolant system used in the 40 section. What exactly does this mean. I get that it's to get the air out of the system but how do I do it?

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I went ahead and started the engine, thermostat opened up with the radiator cap off and the heater on blast. No bubbles so I capped it off and went for a drive with my 2 littlest in the jump seats. Front and rear heaters pumped out some BTUs and the water temp needle stayed around just below half way. Got home and parked it and poured the old coolant in the empty jugs which filled all 3 just about full minus what I spilled so I'm calling this one good.
 
Part 2️⃣: FJ62 lift gate project.
Step 1️⃣ remove the old lift gate (no pictures because somehow I managed to take it off and put the new one on single handed...only almost dropped it once 😱😂. This included messing with the headliner to get to the electrical plugs.
2️⃣ swap all bits from the old door to the new one (lock, door latch mechanism, wiper motor, stickers 😂😳).
3️⃣ 🐍 the new window washer tubing and wiring for the new LED third brake light from GoWesty Campers
4️⃣ magically install the new door by myself (highly recommend against this)
5️⃣ reassemble as much as possible

Part 3️⃣ will include wiring the 3rd brake light, finishing up with the washer tubing, reconnecting all the electrical and testing it. Then I can put the headliner back together.

Also, I’ll have to change the double sided tape to black at some point because the gray tape sticks out like a sore thumb...otherwise it looks almost stock and jives with the lines of an older vehicle. who thought gray tape was a good idea? 🤦🏼‍♂️

Does anyone have a recommendation for plating?

I’d like to get the lock plate in the second pic refurbished. It’s NLA and I’ve only seen ones that are that bad or worse.

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Took advantage of the warmish weather and pulled the soft top off the 40. Need to replace UV damaged straps during the off-season. Cheryl wants me to put the hard top back on it for some reason, so I might just do that so she'll agree to take a ride with me if we get the chance or cabin fever makes us delirious and decide to go snow wheeling.

I also finally installed the H4 retrofit headlights I bought from ToyotaMatt and the FJ Mount for mounting the Hi-Lift to my passenger running board. No pics yet, got too dark too soon.

Hard top install is next....
 
Iptman, this funnel system will help you with engine burping:

Lisle 24680 Spill-Free Funnel
 
Iptman, I like your organizational skilz, where you wrote the date of install on the oil filter. I keep a maintenance log on all my vehicles, but there's nothing like having that date for quick reassurance for an oil/filter check when you're away from the log...
 

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