Pretty quiet in here... what are you working on? (15 Viewers)

[Stumpalama]

You guys just saved my butt. Put away my brass drift and pulled out my brass hammer, put a nut on the studs and started pounding on them, cone washers popped out, steering arm is off. Still trying to get the axle out.

Don't pound the studs with the nuts on them! You will damage the threads. Also never hit a steel hammer with another steel hammer they can shatter or chip and hurt you real bad. Just rest the brass hammer on the stud or the center of the arm and hit it with a 22oz ball peen hammer.

 

[afgman786]

Finally ordered skids & new wheels and 33” pizzacutters mounted and balanced from @OTRAMM

Wife didn't make you return these? Haha

 

[HoundDog]

Don't pound the studs with the nuts on them! You will damage the threads. Also never hit a steel hammer with another steel hammer they can shatter or chip and hurt you real bad. Just rest the brass hammer on the stud or the center of the arm and hit it with a 22oz ball peen hammer.

Got it. First time dealing with cone washers and Google gave me some bad advise.

My bigger problem right now is that I still can’t pull the axle out. There’s a small gap above the top flat and it’s hitting the bottom flat. Hoping the axle housing isn’t bent. Going to rig up a slide hammer tomorrow and see if I can get it out.

 

[Diff Kraken]

Wife didn't make you return these? Haha

No because these arent going to suck as bad as km2s for commuting.

 

[OTRAMM]

Sometimes on 40's you have to loosen the arms to get the axles out. Edit, I should wake up before posting. Not sure how I missed the arms being off.

 

[Pacer]

Sometimes on 40's you have to loosen the arms to get the axles out. Edit, I should wake up before posting. Not sure how I missed the arms being off.

Not questioning, just curious, why on 40s?
Is the same not true for 60s or Minis?
Is the knuckle ball smaller, or, what interferes when the trunnion pins are in place?

Got it. First time dealing with cone washers and Google gave me some bad advise.

My bigger problem right now is that I still can’t pull the axle out. There’s a small gap above the top flat and it’s hitting the bottom flat. Hoping the axle housing isn’t bent. Going to rig up a slide hammer tomorrow and see if I can get it out.

View attachment 2252612

View attachment 2252614

Will the axle move in and out at all?
You should be able to get the knuckle out of your way now at least.

 

[HoundDog]

Not questioning, just curious, why on 40s?
Is the same not true for 60s or Minis?
Is the knuckle ball smaller, or, what interferes when the trunnion pins are in place?


Will the axle move in and out at all?
You should be able to get the knuckle out of your way now at least.

Yes, it moves in and out and rotates. Just gets stuck when I align the flats and tug on it. I’ll remove the knuckle to get it out of the way and go from there. Thanks

 

[OTRAMM]

Not questioning, just curious, why on 40s?
Is the same not true for 60s or Minis?
Is the knuckle ball smaller, or, what interferes when the trunnion pins are in place?


Will the axle move in and out at all?
You should be able to get the knuckle out of your way now at least.

40, 60, mini. Although we see them stuck most commonly on 40's. I'm guessing it's due to them being around longer and having more time for people to put the shims in the wrong place making the knuckle off center.

 

[iptman]

Got some pork shoulders cheap at Restaurant Depot on Thursday, smoking them up today while I work on the 40's brakes. 2 BBQ style and 2 just salt, pepper and raw sugar. The latter 2 then can be seasoned for carnitas or whatever else after the fact. 40 pounds packaged I'd say will end up as 25 pounds in the freezer.

On the 40's brakes, I made the bold assumption the hard brake lines were still available from Toyota. Only the 2 small cylinder connection tubes are available. Going back and looking at the thread about the club hydraulic flaring tool @OTRAMM recommended SUR&R NiCopp lines so ordered a 25ft roll from Amazon. Does anyone know if the OEM lines are 3/16 or is it a similar but slightly different metric size? Based on what Rainman posted in his thread the M10 1.50 brake fittings are near impossible to find so I was thinking about getting 2 extra OEM cylinder to cylinder tubes and snipping the fittings off. Those tubes are only $7 each and I figure if I do find the right ends 4 of them plus shipping would be $14 anyway. But before I do that I want to know if they'd fit on the 3/16 NiCopp tube.

 

[76FJ40]

VautoZone and others carry straight brake lines in varying lengths, just make sure you get Jap metric and not British. You can cut to length and re-flare or just cut off the fittings.

 

[Pacer]

Got some pork shoulders cheap at Restaurant Depot on Thursday, smoking them up today while I work on the 40's brakes. 2 BBQ style and 2 just salt, pepper and raw sugar. The latter 2 then can be seasoned for carnitas or whatever else after the fact. 40 pounds packaged I'd say will end up as 25 pounds in the freezer.

View attachment 2252818

On the 40's brakes, I made the bold assumption the hard brake lines were still available from Toyota. Only the 2 small cylinder connection tubes are available. Going back and looking at the thread about the club hydraulic flaring tool @OTRAMM recommended SUR&R NiCopp lines so ordered a 25ft roll from Amazon. Does anyone know if the OEM lines are 3/16 or is it a similar but slightly different metric size? Based on what Rainman posted in his thread the M10 1.50 brake fittings are near impossible to find so I was thinking about getting 2 extra OEM cylinder to cylinder tubes and snipping the fittings off. Those tubes are only $7 each and I figure if I do find the right ends 4 of them plus shipping would be $14 anyway. But before I do that I want to know if they'd fit on the 3/16 NiCopp tube.

You are a man of many talents!

You can reuse your old fittings on new 3/16 line if you are flaring them yourself.

You can also buy pre flared, short sections of bendable hard line with metric fittings on both ends.

 

[Stumpalama]

You are a man of many talents!

You can reuse your old fittings on new 3/16 line if you are flaring them yourself.

You can also buy pre flared, short sections of bendable hard line with metric fittings on both ends.

I'm checking for the club hydraulic flaring tool.

 

[Stumpalama]

Yes, it moves in and out and rotates. Just gets stuck when I align the flats and tug on it. I’ll remove the knuckle to get it out of the way and go from there. Thanks

Worst case scenario someone put later knuckles in an early year front axle? Both are stuck?
You could use a grinder to grind the undersides of the top and bottom of the knuckles. That is usually done when installing the bigger bird in the older housings.

 

[afgman786]

Putting on newer rear LCA skids... snapped the bolt...
Time to start drilling away again.

 

[76FJ40]

Torque it until it breaks and then back off a quarter turn.

 

[HoundDog]

Worst case scenario someone put later knuckles in an early year front axle? Both are stuck?
You could use a grinder to grind the undersides of the top and bottom of the knuckles. That is usually done when installing the bigger bird in the older housings.

I removed the rest of the knuckle on the drivers side without issue, still unable to remove the axle. Regrouped and organized all my parts and cleaned up. Going to disassemble the passenger side next to see what I got there. If I have to do some grinding I’ll do that but I want to assess the entire axle/housing first. Stay tuned!

 

[afgman786]

What will shift my driver axle back a hair? This is where I'm stuck.
I just need the control arm to shift backwards that much. Played with Jack on same side control arm and same side frame (lifting axle and frame). Can't you pry bar anymore since there's no leverage now.

 

[Stumpalama]

What will shift my driver axle back a hair? This is where I'm stuck.
I just need the control arm to shift backwards that much. Played with Jack on same side control arm and same side frame (lifting axle and frame). Can't you pry bar anymore since there's no leverage now.

View attachment 2253265

Open the hole bigger.

 

[afgman786]

Open the hole bigger.

Was trying to avoid doing that.. but might have to resort to it. Got the bolt out with it the way it was
So was hoping to get it back in the same way. Also didn't want to drill into control arm bushing.

 

[Stumpalama]

Was trying to avoid doing that.. but might have to resort to it. Got the bolt out with it the way it was
So was hoping to get it back in the same way. Also didn't want to drill into control arm bushing.

Have you jacked up the truck to try getting some pressure of the arm?
I need a better idea of what those bolts do.