Pretty quiet in here... what are you working on? (5 Viewers)

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Have you jacked up the truck to try getting some pressure of the arm?
I need a better idea of what those bolts do.
Yup played with jacking frame and axle separately to get it to move the way I want. I have up down motion relatively freely. Its forward backwards where I need it to scoot back a bit.
This is rear lower control arm from axle to frame. I'm playing with the mount at the frame. Have resorted to trying to make the hole bigger. Slowly getting there. Might be SOL now because I can't even fully get the bolt to back out. Or I'm just getting tired
 
Success!
 
Nothing all that exciting. Started organizing the garage since it really needs it. Found my multimeter I thought I lost.
Also finally pressure washed the 2burner from Fall Crawl, man was there a lot of fat from the burgers baked on there!
Easiest and quickest way I've found to get the steering arm cone washers loose is to whack the top of the steering arm with a hammer- at a location between where the tie rod attaches and where the four holes are for the stud/cone washers. Works every time.
 
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You are a man of many talents!

You can reuse your old fittings on new 3/16 line if you are flaring them yourself.

You can also buy pre flared, short sections of bendable hard line with metric fittings on both ends.

Yup, that's what I ended up doing. I forgot I had a section of metric tube from when I pinched a line at Coal Mine a few years ago. I cut the end off and those fittings fit in the cylinders a have. I also cut off an OEM fitting from an old tube and it fit on the 3/16 tube. So I just ordered 2 AGS metric tubes, 8 inches long for all of $2.70 each. Thanks for the tips guys! Painted and ready for inbound parts to finish this up. Although in doing this job I've realized I need to do something about the rust.

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Stock bottle jack under the pinion next time.
Good to know. I was lifting from the axle where the lower control arm is mounted, and from my sliders trying to get the magic spot... wondering if it has to do with post lift my axle has shifted to the side a small bit and that's why the control arm is pushing forward a bit..
 
Have everything buttoned back up. Chopped the fan shroud in half for better access in the future...should have been like this from the factory.

she’s still dry and I will have to wait until later in the week to fill her and test. I’m waiting on some Gates green stripe hose for the two hoses that run along the valve cover and two U shape hoses to replace the rear heater hoses under the truck. Really hope this all pays off and works well when I fire her up 🤞🏻.

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OK, I was able to disassemble the passenger side knuckle and remove the axle easy peasy. Still can’t get the drivers side axle out, and then I noticed something disturbing.

What do you guys think, is this axle housing bent? It looks like it’s bent back towards the rear of the truck about an inch. Had the wife look at it with her eye and she agrees it’s not straight.

Here’s some pics:

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I removed the rest of the knuckle on the drivers side without issue, still unable to remove the axle. Regrouped and organized all my parts and cleaned up. Going to disassemble the passenger side next to see what I got there. If I have to do some grinding I’ll do that but I want to assess the entire axle/housing first. Stay tuned!

the Burf when tin the knuckle it will come out. Line the flats up and rotate the burf up and down when pulling it out.

it looks bent but you didn’t you see it new? The truck isn’t trashed. It is probably ok.
 
Not Land Cruiser related... but the Rojo 80 was present for the minor surgery on the BMW. I finally installed the bluetooth connection kit for my JB4 tuner, now I can change the settings and finally break the 400hp mark.
 
OK, I was able to disassemble the passenger side knuckle and remove the axle easy peasy. Still can’t get the drivers side axle out, and then I noticed something disturbing.

What do you guys think, is this axle housing bent? It looks like it’s bent back towards the rear of the truck about an inch. Had the wife look at it with her eye and she agrees it’s not straight.

Here’s some pics:

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From the pics, drivers side looks bent back and probably up. That would indeed make it difficult to get the axle out.

Can you run a long piece of rod, maybe rebar, from the passenger side through to the driver side axle and pound it out that way?
 
From the pics, drivers side looks bent back and probably up. That would indeed make it difficult to get the axle out.

Can you run a long piece of rod, maybe rebar, from the passenger side through to the driver side axle and pound it out that way?

I could make an attempt at that. However, if the housing is bent I’ll need a competent shop to straighten it and I’d probably do less harm letting them deal with it.

I read this article about a shop called Arizona Differential in Phoenix, AZ (I recently moved to NM) that can straighten axles on a jig. I’m going to give them a call tomorrow. They build axles, diffs, desert racing trucks, etc.

 
I could make an attempt at that. However, if the housing is bent I’ll need a competent shop to straighten it and I’d probably do less harm letting them deal with it.

I read this article about a shop called Arizona Differential in Phoenix, AZ (I recently moved to NM) that can straighten axles on a jig. I’m going to give them a call tomorrow. They build axles, diffs, desert racing trucks, etc.


Probably cheaper to source a replacement than to pay to have an axle straightened. I tried to straighten my rear one and it never took., but YMMV.
 
If you haven't tried a 5lb slide hammer like the 'Silver Slapper' by OTC to pull the axle, then give that a try with a grade 8 or harder 8 x 1.25m bolt for the birf end. If you have ground the top and bottom of the bell to add a new birf, you may have to grind a bit more as I found out when I added my stronger birfs back when. I found that after I torqued the top and bottoms, the bell closed up enough to make birf remove impossible and had to regrind. I posted about that back when.

With the rear axle all cleaned up, it looks like a good time for RDBs.
 
OK, I was able to disassemble the passenger side knuckle and remove the axle easy peasy. Still can’t get the drivers side axle out, and then I noticed something disturbing.

What do you guys think, is this axle housing bent? It looks like it’s bent back towards the rear of the truck about an inch. Had the wife look at it with her eye and she agrees it’s not straight.

Here’s some pics:

View attachment 2253448

View attachment 2253449

View attachment 2253450
yes that is bent. You should pick up that front axle @bkfj40 has and swap your parts to it. I would not try to re use that axle. Take a sawzall and cut the tube so you can get the axle out and then the third. Someone hit something pretty good with that!
 
yes that is bent. You should pick up that front axle @bkfj40 has and swap your parts to it. I would not try to re use that axle. Take a sawzall and cut the tube so you can get the axle out and then the third. Someone hit something pretty good with that!
I agree 100%. Till you ship your axle out west, pay to have it straightened, and pay for return shipping you'll be way ahead by buying a replacement axle housing. I never saw one looking as bad as yours!
 
When I first had my fj55, it wore the inside of one front tire pretty bad. When I did the springover, I had problems getting the axle out. It was then that I realized that the front axle was bent.

I have a complete front drum brake axle for sale west of Harrisonburg - $75. If you don't want the third, you probably can recoup all your money if you bring it with you to an event and someone breaks a third.
 
When I first had my fj55, it wore the inside of one front tire pretty bad. When I did the springover, I had problems getting the axle out. It was then that I realized that the front axle was bent.

I have a complete front drum brake axle for sale west of Harrisonburg - $75. If you don't want the third, you probably can recoup all your money if you bring it with you to an event and someone breaks a third.

So would a drum housing work with my 79+ parts?And if so, how much would shipping be to NM? Cost isn’t a factor unless it’s a crazy price.
 
Yes the axle is the same.
 

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