There are some good threads on this in the 60s section. I think some people adapt an aftermarket tach. I need to do this as well.
Do you know what you are going to use for a speed sensor?
Pretty quiet in here... what are you working on?
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There are some good threads on this in the 60s section. I think some people adapt an aftermarket tach. I need to do this as well.
Do you know what you are going to use for a speed sensor?
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Makes sense that the plugs could be designed to be uniformly pointy.
Some months back, when Tracy was still here, the cam pulley bolt somehow worked loose and allowed the timing to slip. This engine is only slightly interference and we set the timing back.
However unlikely it is possible that the plug was put back in.the truck hadn't been driven much until the past two weeks.
Today the truck drove like normal and I'll change the dist cap , rotor, and wires in the morning.
Some months back, when Tracy was still here, the cam pulley bolt somehow worked loose and allowed the timing to slip. This engine is only slightly interference and we set the timing back.
However unlikely it is possible that the plug was put back in.the truck hadn't been driven much until the past two weeks.
Today the truck drove like normal and I'll change the dist cap , rotor, and wires in the morning.
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They are not supposed to be used in older engines. It is better to use conventional plugs.
I'm hoping to use the speed sensor on the transmission right now. The only thing I am unsure of is the housing for it. The adapter for the transfer case replaces the tail piece on the 700R4 and that is where the speed sensor is located. I am hoping that Advance Adapters made an accommodation for that.
If you see any of the threads that you think would pertain to this, shoot 'em to me please?
Bart
Just catching up on the CLCC threads--Sam, sorry the ol' Trooper is giving you issues--that one plug appears to have been kissed--pull the upper timing cover and re-torque that bolt!!!
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There's a lot going on...
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Heard some chirping while driving and a little clunk from he rear whenever letting off the throttle. Crawled under the truck to grease the universals and shaft to find the rearmost universal to be completely destroyed and just barely holding together.
Picked up a new universal and rented a fancy tool to replace it. Fiddled with it for a couple hours on my stomach, then reached for the hammer instead. Beat on that for a while and drove the seized caps out.
Drive shaft gets installed before the drive into work tomorrow morn.
Yaaa whoooo
Picked up a new universal and rented a fancy tool to replace it. Fiddled with it for a couple hours on my stomach, then reached for the hammer instead. Beat on that for a while and drove the seized caps out.
Drive shaft gets installed before the drive into work tomorrow morn.
Yaaa whoooo
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It is MUCH easier to do off the truck with a vice. I know bronco guys often have a vice bolted to the inside of the frame to replace ujoints since they break so often. However I dont recommend trying to change it upside down under a truck if you don't have to.
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yea, the rear section of the rear drive shaft was fused to the front section of the rear drive shaft. It took some beating to disconnect them after i removed all the bolts. The flanges will get a skim coat of antiseize when i bolt it all back together.
the trooper has a two piece rear driveshaft with three universals.
I tried to do it the "fast" way, then was determined to complete the task as such. The bolts to the middle universal were a bit of a pain to access which is why i initially didn't disconnect the drive shaft at both ends.
the method described in the repair manual was interesting and similar to removing cone washers on toyota hubs. three wacks at that got the fused driveshaft free.
hammer fixes all.
the trooper has a two piece rear driveshaft with three universals.
I tried to do it the "fast" way, then was determined to complete the task as such. The bolts to the middle universal were a bit of a pain to access which is why i initially didn't disconnect the drive shaft at both ends.
the method described in the repair manual was interesting and similar to removing cone washers on toyota hubs. three wacks at that got the fused driveshaft free.
hammer fixes all.
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not bad for an aussielocked rear on a truck that gets wheeled and driven daily.
Next comes some wheel bearing servicing.
Next comes some wheel bearing servicing.
I've been working to get my business going. The good thing is I didn't have to sell the 40 to do it!! Got the hard top done just in time to not need it, ut at least it will be ready for the winter this year
If anyone needs any media blasting done let me know! I'm mobile and will come to you! I wasn't worried about catching the media in my yard but will be able to catch it with poly under whatever I'm blasting. Its Wet Abrasive Blasting so there is limited dust. few things I did yesterday. The hood had around 4 coats of paint and primer and the woodstove was straight rust.
If anyone needs any media blasting done let me know! I'm mobile and will come to you! I wasn't worried about catching the media in my yard but will be able to catch it with poly under whatever I'm blasting. Its Wet Abrasive Blasting so there is limited dust. few things I did yesterday. The hood had around 4 coats of paint and primer and the woodstove was straight rust.
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felt a little random vibration in the transmission shifter on the trooper. found the transfercase skid plate to be very loose with some chatter there. Checked the oil level on the transfer case and it was 1 1/2 quart low. Ouch, looked up capacity on amsoil website and it lists 3.2pints of 5w-30, but I added gear oil before I checked the website. Wonder if the thicker lube will slow the leak. Just realized that I did not check the transmission fluid level. Common problem I see on the interwebs with troopers are the motor mounts and transmission mounts wearing fairly quickly. Not sure if the kind of random vibration/surge i experienced is related. This occurs in gear with power on and clutch out, and not power off with clutch in.
The left rear caliper is sticking too and grinding a bit while driving, driving me crazy. New caliper to be ordered tomorrow. Exhaust leak somewhere, and i'm thinking it is at the down pipe after remembering a long ago had conversation. I'll have to touch up the JB weld!
Received a brand new fuel pump bracket assembly from Beno for the 4runner the other day. Now i just need to remove the old one and bend up some brake/fuel line to get the 4runner back on the road! Fuel lines are discontinued from toyota, so now i'm debating just how long a section i should replace. Come to think of it, there was a soft line inbetween the hard line and fuel pump bracket at the fuel tank and I think i'll need one of those too to serve as vibration resistance. I wonder if those are still available, or something else will work in place of that specific part. Custom or adapt another part?
2 Treadwright tires for the trooper are on the way to replace the front worn tires. Going to give the guard dog 31" a try
Some metric 32" ready to mount on some yota 16" rims. My 40 might just get some new shoes mounted soon.
The left rear caliper is sticking too and grinding a bit while driving, driving me crazy. New caliper to be ordered tomorrow. Exhaust leak somewhere, and i'm thinking it is at the down pipe after remembering a long ago had conversation. I'll have to touch up the JB weld!
Received a brand new fuel pump bracket assembly from Beno for the 4runner the other day. Now i just need to remove the old one and bend up some brake/fuel line to get the 4runner back on the road! Fuel lines are discontinued from toyota, so now i'm debating just how long a section i should replace. Come to think of it, there was a soft line inbetween the hard line and fuel pump bracket at the fuel tank and I think i'll need one of those too to serve as vibration resistance. I wonder if those are still available, or something else will work in place of that specific part. Custom or adapt another part?
2 Treadwright tires for the trooper are on the way to replace the front worn tires. Going to give the guard dog 31" a try
Some metric 32" ready to mount on some yota 16" rims. My 40 might just get some new shoes mounted soon.
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Found the fastest way to break both beads on a front tire at 50mph on the parkway...with the tread separating.
And ive had those new tires for a week, but the rain ruined my mounting plans. Some dish soap, pry bars, body weight and with a little patience i went from this
To this
While i was out there i swapped in a new rear caliper to replace the leaking and dragging caliper.
Maybe even get the safety inspection tomorrow
And ive had those new tires for a week, but the rain ruined my mounting plans. Some dish soap, pry bars, body weight and with a little patience i went from this
To this
While i was out there i swapped in a new rear caliper to replace the leaking and dragging caliper.
Maybe even get the safety inspection tomorrow
Good job Sam!
A budy at work is giving me a 87 extended cab pickup. It's got a rusted throw frame and will not pass inspection. Not sure what I'm going to do with it yet.
A budy at work is giving me a 87 extended cab pickup. It's got a rusted throw frame and will not pass inspection. Not sure what I'm going to do with it yet.