- Thread starter
- #121
I thought that may be what that was from. Looks good.
...via IH8MUD app
...via IH8MUD app
Pretty quiet in here... what are you working on?
- Thread starter Stumpalama
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Trooper starter took a dump. I get one solid click when turning to "start" position. In the past, two or three quick turns would then result in the starter cranking, but not today. Multimeter is missing so I can't properly diagnose. Grounds appear good and all wires plugged in. Engine will fire with a push start. Will have to pull/replace starter in the dark in Tuesday. Starter is not easily accessible.
Put a new battery in the cruiser and fired it up. It ran well until i started fiddling with wires related to the left front marker lights so it would pass inspection. Still a dead inspection.
Camry transmission is dead, I consider it totaled.
Took off the fuel access panel on the 4runner to find some rusty lines, but the junction between the hard line and soft line on the passenger side frame are the most nasty. Battery dead now after 2weeks inactivity so I'll chase down that leak another time soon.
Put a new battery in the cruiser and fired it up. It ran well until i started fiddling with wires related to the left front marker lights so it would pass inspection. Still a dead inspection.
Camry transmission is dead, I consider it totaled.
Took off the fuel access panel on the 4runner to find some rusty lines, but the junction between the hard line and soft line on the passenger side frame are the most nasty. Battery dead now after 2weeks inactivity so I'll chase down that leak another time soon.
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I just went ahead and got a Napa remanufactured starter. Keeping the original denso starter and looking for a rebuild kit.
Helping a buddy with his ADD system in a 2005 Tacoma tomorrow. He suspects that we need to do some soldering on the unit. Managed to strip the 10mm hex head on the diff drain, so I'm thinking we can hammer in a 11hex or 11torx.
I'll take pix tomorrow.
If it's a Denso starter you can probably just get new contacts and a plunger and be good to go. I know you can get the parts for a Toyota starter from Worldpac. They probably have them for the Trooper too.
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Thanks for the tips on the starter.
To get the stripped diff drain bolt my Buddy had to open up the hole with a drill then hammer in a 3/8" extension. I think he's learned his lesson about using s***ty Allen wrenches.
He's going to hand wind the ADD box gears to the 4x4 position so he has the option for 4x4 at the transfer case.
To get the stripped diff drain bolt my Buddy had to open up the hole with a drill then hammer in a 3/8" extension. I think he's learned his lesson about using s***ty Allen wrenches.
He's going to hand wind the ADD box gears to the 4x4 position so he has the option for 4x4 at the transfer case.
- Thread starter
- #129
Made a mess in my shop fixing my pinion angle issue. Got it dialed to within 2.5 degrees at at the pinion (pinion at 15*, DS at 17* +/-).
Made a mess in my shop fixing my pinion angle issue. Got it dialed to within 2.5 degrees at at the pinion (pinion at 15*, DS at 17* +/-).
A fun mess to make.
- Thread starter
- #131
@Von Hayek I just happen to have some nice FJ62 wiring diagrams neatly filed in a binder that may help with the wiring work. I am not familiar with the ins and outs of wiring for the vortec engine, but I will warn you that pulling the dash wiring harness is no small feat, if that is required in order to run the stock gauges and other electricals. It involved pulling the ENTIRE dash apart, including unbolting the support frame. I will keep the dash parts from the parts rig incase you break something in the process.
AA has a good pdf of all the parts and modifications required for the swap, if you haven't already looked at it.
I think you'll have to start a build thread in the 60 section on this!
AA has a good pdf of all the parts and modifications required for the swap, if you haven't already looked at it.
I think you'll have to start a build thread in the 60 section on this!
- Thread starter
- #132
I'm still blowing black boogies out of my nose from cutting the old perches off. I couldn't get the plasma cutter to cooperate and thus, had to go old school with the angle grinder on 1/4 plate. However, the new perches are tacked in and I just need to drop the axle again and final weld them in. I will say that the Hobart 210 is awesome and burns .035 wire like butter.
Thanks. I don't know if they are different from the diagrams in the factory service manual which I have, but am definitely interested.
Though certainly no small task, I'm hoping that the harness is not that complicated. There is going to be a new, separate harness for the EFI. The matings that need to occur between the FJ62 harness and the new engine that I can think of:
- alternator
- a/c
- ignition
- tach
- temperature gauge
- oil pressure gauge
I don't think that any of this is going to happen behind the gauge cluster, but at the sensors. I am going to have to install an adapter the feeds the tack a proper signal for an 8-cylinder engine, which may go behind the dash.
- Thread starter
- #134
There was a good write up on adapting the stock toyota a/c to the vortec here: https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/air-conditioning-after-a-vortec-swap.605779/. I did a quick image search of "vortec engine FJ62 wiring" and came up with a bunch of threads.
Looks like fun! Problem solving at it's finest. It is going to be awesome.
Looks like fun! Problem solving at it's finest. It is going to be awesome.
Got to love the black boogies!
NOT!!
I have to do mine to. but a new brake booster is first in line
- Thread starter
- #136
Why do you have to redo yours? Did you f up your pinion angle too.
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Ran around to advanced auto before they closed to order new wires, rotor, dist cap, and plugs.
Pulled plugs and wires to find this. Somewhat amazed it ran at all. #1,2,4 electrodes are pencil thin and #3 is fused. #2 high tension wire end was broken.
Dist cap contacts have the expected white powder and there was a little oil in there.
I had to rob a wire from the 4runner.
Dig it.
Yikes.
- Thread starter
- #139
Uh... Might want to figure out the source of the mechanical damage to the #2 plug. They should not be smashed, in case you didn't notice it.
Otherwise, they look pretty good, no deposits and a good color. Are you sure those aren't iridium plugs and thus, they start out pencil thin. Electrodes don't usually narrow like that, they typically wear from the top down, increasing the gap util the spark no longer can make the jump.
Otherwise, they look pretty good, no deposits and a good color. Are you sure those aren't iridium plugs and thus, they start out pencil thin. Electrodes don't usually narrow like that, they typically wear from the top down, increasing the gap util the spark no longer can make the jump.
Yes I'm running shims right now to let the drive shaft turn. I will need to fix it when I start driving it on the street.