Pretty quiet in here... what are you working on? (8 Viewers)

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The LX is still there… so as far as I know I can still make this happen if I decide to.

Another factor that made me hesitate is that the service history at Lexus says it wasn’t serviced until 28,000 miles and then not again until 43,000 miles. And at 54,000 dealer recommended pads and rotors but service was declined. I can only assume the owner got the oil and brakes changed elsewhere? It runs and drives like a brand new truck. 🤷🏼‍♂️

Edit: Also, while I think you’re right about LC values holding value a bit better than a 4Runner- I’m not really sure this particular LX’s value will go up over time. It’s already at $48k. I don’t actually see that going higher after adding miles, pinstripes, dents to the rear lower links, dented gas tank, etc…
I would keep the 4runner. I have been shopping for a LX for the last 6 months. Unfortunately the prices of the 14-15 year range has went up from high 30k to now high 40k in the short time I have been looking. So I am going to sit and wait till they drop back down.
 
The LX is still there… so as far as I know I can still make this happen if I decide to.

Another factor that made me hesitate is that the service history at Lexus says it wasn’t serviced until 28,000 miles and then not again until 43,000 miles. And at 54,000 dealer recommended pads and rotors but service was declined. I can only assume the owner got the oil and brakes changed elsewhere? It runs and drives like a brand new truck. 🤷🏼‍♂️

Edit: Also, while I think you’re right about LC values holding value a bit better than a 4Runner- I’m not really sure this particular LX’s value will go up over time. It’s already at $48k. I don’t actually see that going higher after adding miles, pinstripes, dents to the rear lower links, dented gas tank, etc…
If it doesn't look trashed then it's safe to assume that regular maintenance was done elsewhere.

Good luck with the deliberative effort/knife fight taking place in your gourd! To me, it seems you sometimes lament having moved from your first LX to the Surf, which is still a nice SUV itself.

Follow your heart if your checking account allows it?!? :cool:
 
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If it doesn't look trashed then it's safe to assume that regular maintenance was done elsewhere.

Good luck with the deliberative effort taking place in your gourd! To me, it seems you sometimes lament having moved from your first LX to the Surf, which is still a nice SUV itself.

Follow your heart if your checking account allows it?!? :cool:
Yup. 1st one was a GX/Prado 120 but yeah it is a regret in some ways
ie- V8, third row, smoother ride, didn’t die on flag pole but it had a parasitic draw from the fancy self tilting mirrors and the rear main was leaking so I got a shiny new truck to avoid issues like that
 
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Anyone want 3rd row seats from a 200? I'll make you a smoking deal
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Looks good, man. You didn't waste any time getting that cooler basket mounted.
 
Looks good, man. You didn't waste any time getting that cooler basket mounted.
My son helped me with that. He picked it up and said “Damn dad,that basket weighs a ton”
I moved the doors like we talked about and now they clear everything just fine.

For anybody looking the 4 plus bumper is well made. Once we had straightened out the bumper frame the bumper bolted up and fits perfectly. Everything on it was well made and required no massaging at all it just fit together perfectly.
 
I finally got around to working on the Quadrasteer Suburban. Replaced the radiator, all heater and coolant hoses, thermostat, belts, tensioners, coolant reservoir with some fresh dex cool, an oil change and a new set of KO2s. Of course when I went to test drive the starter gear was flopping around hitting the flywheel under heavy acceleration so I have a ACDelco reman on the way. I also adjusted the torsion bars a bit to level it out.

PXL_20220205_230144982.jpg
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I finally got around to working on the Quadrasteer Suburban. Replaced the radiator, all heater and coolant hoses, thermostat, belts, tensioners, coolant reservoir with some fresh dex cool, an oil change and a new set of KO2s. Of course when I went to test drive the starter gear was flopping around hitting the flywheel under heavy acceleration so I have a ACDelco reman on the way. I also adjusted the torsion bars a bit to level it out.

View attachment 2916858View attachment 2916859
Patrick,
Be sure to get it aligned. Turning up the torsion bars throws it out. Did you replace the heater quick connects at the firewall? They tend to leak with age.

Good looking rig there
 
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Patrick,
Be sure to get it aligned. Turning up the torsion bars throughs it out. Did you replace the heater quick connects at the firewall? They tend to leak with age.

Good looking rig there

Yes, I replaced both the black and white heater tees. Check out the original "white" tee I took off. The thing basically crumbled as I was pulling on it to remove it.

PXL_20220203_221909609.jpg
 
still waiting :)
A kind of a disappointing 225 HP. There are a lot of variables though.

- The tech told me flat out that the dynamometer he used was a bit finicky, and that the second dyno right next to the one we used that night consistently gave readings that are 10% higher.

- There is the driveline loss of course. I don't know what it is in a Land Cruiser, but if you throw a transfer case into the mix I would think it has to be higher than average.

- The airflow to the engine is restricted because the intake was necked down to use the factory air filter housing. The tech said that was the limiting factor in tuning it.

- However, if more air had been available, more fuel would not have been available. According to the tech, the fuel supplied by the factory Toyota pump was not maxed out in the tune he achieved but it was at the edge.

So, air and fuel would give more horsepower (don't they always?). A better way of putting it is that the engine still has use for more of both. That said though, it has plenty of power in my opinion. If the dyno is off 10%, that would make it 250 at the wheels.

It cruises and sounds great. If the new owner wants to eek out another 30-50? horsepower, it could be done. But as it currently sits, it runs extremely well and noticeably better after the tune.

 
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A kind of a disappointing 225 HP. There are a lot of variables though.

- The tech told me flat out that the dynamometer he used was a bit finicky, and that the second dyno right next to the one we used that night consistently gave readings that are 10% higher.

- There is the driveline loss of course. I don't know what it is in a Land Cruiser, but if you throw a transfer case into the mix it has to be higher than average.

- The airflow to the engine is restricted because the intake was necked down to use the factory air filter housing. The tech said that was the limiting factor in tuning it.

- However, if more air had been available, more fuel would not have been available. According to the tech, the fuel supplied by the factory Toyota pump was not maxed out in the tune he achieved but it was at the edge.

So, air and fuel would give more horsepower (don't they always?). A better way of putting it is that the engine still has use for more of both. That said though, it has plenty of power in my opinion. If the dyno is off 10%, that would make it 250 at the wheels.

It cruises and sounds great. If the new owner wants to eek out another 30-50? horsepower, it could be done. But as it currently sits, it runs extremely well and noticeably better after the tune.


You can figure 30-40% loss with a 4wd. So that is not bad. I have read that the stock fuel pump will work but does not have the flow of a gm pump. Easy enough to swap out in the tank. Either way more at the wheels than the 3FE had at the crank!
 
If you had small street tires on wouldn't your number been higher as well
 
If you had small street tires on wouldn't your number been higher as well
That is a good question. I wouldn't think so as all of that information is entered into the testing system. It is going to a know that the engine is turning a larger "gear" at the end of the drivetrain.
 

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