Pretty quiet in here... what are you working on? (19 Viewers)

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The 100 front locker isn't too terrible to install. It's a bit of a pain just due to the way the housing is designed. The locker itself won't "cause" future breakage on it's own. It's more due to the fact that the CV's won't hold up to being bound up and given full torque.
 

Problem solved!
Ouch.
 
Thanks for everyone’s input here. I’m thinking blue trails should be the goal to stick with for the GX without more major mods. In any case, I suppose I’ll finish putting skids on and just head out on the next official event and go from there.
 
I think that's a good idea. Not everyone likes bashing their junk on the blacks. I really dislike rock gardens so I go around them if I can and just watch the big boys have their fun. Or better yet, take the bypass then run back and passenger on some of the harder sections. I think you did well by addressing rocker and under body protection right off the bat. As long as you have tow points front and rear along with straps you'll be good on the group runs. I would say a rear locker should be your next big upgrade, wheel it and find the limit with it before anything else.
 
I'm looking forward to not being the only GX at future events
 
Working on getting this 61 painted in the next couple of weeks because I’m moving to MD next month! Very excited to meet up with y’all this summer and talk trucks! 🤓😎👍

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Looking for some insight..
Pressure washer is blowing fuses at my house today. Had no issues yesterday using it however today it blew the fuse that it didn't blow yesterday 3times. 2nd time it blew the fuse I stayed downstairs and heard the noise of load going onto the fuse before it popped. Moved the pressure washer to a different circuit that didn't have anything being used on there and still blew it.
Could I have killed the pressure washer yesterday when I was using it? It's a ROYBI 2000psi
 
Moved the pressure washer to a different circuit that didn't have anything being used on there and still blew it.
1. Never assume that you know what is on a circuit unless YOU are the one who has gone through every switch and receptacle in the house making the plot.
2. Don't underestimate the draw that "off" devices can have. I used to have a vacuum that would pop a particular breaker every time I used it. I followed #1 above and also made sure to power off all lights and devices on that circuit. No dice. I learned that if I also physically unplugged one or two things that the vacuum would then work fine on that circuit. My fix was to split up the giant circuit into three by rewiring some stuff to current code (not 1970's code). Problem solved.
3. Now I've forgotten what I had intended to write for #3. I feel like it was pertinent but it escapes me.
 
1. Never assume that you know what is on a circuit unless YOU are the one who has gone through every switch and receptacle in the house making the plot.
2. Don't underestimate the draw that "off" devices can have. I used to have a vacuum that would pop a particular breaker every time I used it. I followed #1 above and also made sure to power off all lights and devices on that circuit. No dice. I learned that if I also physically unplugged one or two things that the vacuum would then work fine on that circuit. My fix was to split up the giant circuit into three by rewiring some stuff to current code (not 1970's code). Problem solved.
3. Now I've forgotten what I had intended to write for #3. I feel like it was pertinent but it escapes me.
The thing is it has worked every time no problem for a couple years now when I would plug it in the garage, up until today that is. Yesterday I was washing off mud and was on the pressure washer a good bit without letting off the trigger (maybe these have a duty cycle that I over did?). Figured I would give the undercarriage a second round today and properly wash the car. However, it kept blowing the same fuse that always worked in the past, nothing new has been connect on this circuit from yesterday or the past 1.5yrs.

Then I moved over to another outlet that I know all the other outlets on that same circuit didn't have anything plugged in on it. I'm thinking about opening the pressure washer up since I couldn't find the receipt and home depot tells me the only insurance they see on my account is for the water heater.
 
If worse comes to worst, you can always run a dedicated line from a new outlet to a new breaker in a blank slot in the main circuit box. I ran a number of new lines/outlets when I first moved into my house due to the paltry amount of outlets - all after studying the local codes, of course.

It's also possible that one or more outlets developed a short. You might want to use a circuit checker in each outlet on the line you're using.

Just reread your last post - it's also possible that the pressure washer developed a short. Opening it up sounds like a plan. Ed might want to step in at this point.
 
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What is the time lag between turning on the washer and the fuse/breaker popping? Immediate or +/- a second or two later?
So the way this one worked was when you turned it on it did a quick compression as if it would test the motor. It blew the fuse before doing a full compression. Motor might be done?


Also I tried opening it up. Looks like any chance I had of fixing it might be out the window. Had all this grease come out from that spot.

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Who can lend a hand with a beefy pitman arm puller and some heat or know of a shop that would help if I showed up (after a phone call) with two steering boxes?

At an impasse....snapped the pitman arm puller I borrow from advance auto. I’m swapping out the old, worn, and leaking steering box for a new to me low mile 80 series box. It’s a bit of an upgrade and drops right in except for swapping pitman arms and the steering shaft u joint. The coupler is also stuck on the 80 series box...the one the 62 slide right off :doh:

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Cody got it started and Ryan finished the job with a bit of manhandling @OTRAMM

thanks again guys!

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So the way this one worked was when you turned it on it did a quick compression as if it would test the motor. It blew the fuse before doing a full compression. Motor might be done?

If the pressure switch is stuck “on” the motor will be powered and unable to spin with the nozzle valve close. Try opening the nozzle valve, water flowing thru pump from garden hose pressure and then plug in the motor.
 
Looking for thoughts on where to go next on this truck. Its got the sliders, 2” lift, 33s and will have full skids.

1) Are black trails doable with this truck? Or will it just get high centered on boulders all day?

2) Is a hidden winch a good idea, or do I need a steel winch bumper for better approach angles and protection from bumping trees etc?

Any other thoughts are welcome. Mainly with the goal of joining on black trails. I assume getting an 80 would work for that too, but switching to a 100 series wouldn’t give any advantage for that- right? Thinking about next steps here... overall I’m happy with the GX... just pondering.

I may be a little late to the discussion, but IMHO 33" tires are on the small side for a steady diet of black trails. And choose wisely because some hidden winch mounts can reduce approach angles. If your objective is to conquer black trails, a rear diff lock is practically a must, and a front diff lock is a big help, but learn to control the urge to use the loud pedal when the front is locked, otherwise, you'll want to stock up on spare CV axles. 35" tires adds significantly to the capabilities, but also stresses the CV axles more and would require more lift (aftermarket upper and lower control arms and possibly a body lift). You should also be mentally prepared for some occasional rock rash. Articulation, clearance, strength and approach angles are the ticket for black trails. The first three tend to take away from the street manners and handling, but that is also why the 80 Series, with solid front coil sprung axles is a better potential match for black trails than your GX. I have not seen very many rigs set-up for north east black trails that also make good sense as daily drivers. Fernando's 80 Series was close to that magic compromise. Think about what the primary use of the rig will be.
 
I may be a little late to the discussion, but IMHO 33" tires are on the small side for a steady diet of black trails. And choose wisely because some hidden winch mounts can reduce approach angles. If your objective is to conquer black trails, a rear diff lock is practically a must, and a front diff lock is a big help, but learn to control the urge to use the loud pedal when the front is locked, otherwise, you'll want to stock up on spare CV axles. 35" tires adds significantly to the capabilities, but also stresses the CV axles more and would require more lift (aftermarket upper and lower control arms and possibly a body lift). You should also be mentally prepared for some occasional rock rash. Articulation, clearance, strength and approach angles are the ticket for black trails. The first three tend to take away from the street manners and handling, but that is also why the 80 Series, with solid front coil sprung axles is a better potential match for black trails than your GX. I have not seen very many rigs set-up for north east black trails that also make good sense as daily drivers. Fernando's 80 Series was close to that magic compromise. Think about what the primary use of the rig will be.
Solid feedback. Much appreciated.
 

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