Preserving Patina - How To Tips and Tricks (1 Viewer)

[cult45]

Where were you when I figured a clear coat was the only option??

 

[BenjaminCA]

Thanks for posting, I contacted you a while back about this and appreciate the info.

 

[dogfishlake]

Awesome thread. I have been following your ideas for a while @wngrog .

I don't like the idea of regular paint like clear coat either. Wax and linseed oil have to be reapplied but you can get back to the original finish if you want to. If one uses modern clear you have a very tough time going back, especially if the clear begins to fail.

I have spent a lot of time saving the original paint on my 55. It had an overall spray paint job with rattle can OD green. I used both lacquer thinner and Goof Off with excellent results. The Goof Off was faster but left a dull finish. It polishes back up well though.

The thinner sounds harsh but on an old paint job it hardly cuts through because that old factory finish is so hard and the spray paint is wimpy enough being non-catalized that it lifts pretty quickly.

I like Meguiars products and their Ultimate polish and Ultimate wax are super easy and don't leave behind the wax residue.

 

[Dizzy]

I've done the rattle can removal, using acetone, on a bicycle. It was significant work. That 55 looks great.

My battery tray was nasty when I started my project, mice, rust, corroding or leaking battery, from the tray to the frame rail. I really didn't want to invest in a new one, or powder coat.

I've experimented with paraffin wax, i.e. candles, on a couple of painted/exposed metal wheelbarrows this summer, and was satisfied with the results. Get the metal piping hot in the sun and rub it with solid paraffin, let it penetrate for the day, or wipe off the excess with paper. It does not stink, it is not initially sticky, it is somewhat absorbed by the metal and covers paint, restoring the color's saturation and value.

However, it is also a component of Boeshield, which is what I've been using on the 40, including cleaned-up electrical grounds on the frame and body, but not applied wet on surfaces with rubber. Boeshield works great directly on the 40s rust; it was specifically engineered for preserving machinery. My 40s crusty hood latches don't squeak anymore when they are operated. Boeshield is locally available at the bicycle shop; hint, hint to the Cruiser vendors.

Anyway, the battery tray got the candle-paraffin treatment, which really transformed it.

Professionally, paraffin was the go-to when I worked as a blacksmith. We would treat unpainted metal with it, and soak it in with a propane torch. These pieces were intended for both interior and exterior environments. If I lived in a hot place like Tuscon, I'd probably do more of the 40 with straight paraffin. I've also done this treatment to wood, it takes a lot, but water beads up when it rains. Nice trailer.

 

[dogfishlake]

I think if there is any remote chance of saving the original paint on a Cruiser it is totally worth it to see what you can come up with. Do the CLR/scotchbrite, fluid film process and it may be that you just saved yourself a pile of repaint money and have a great look. It's only original once.

 

[wdukes]

I am a big fan of wngrog's style. I am working on a couple very similar. I have also had very good results by using rubbing compound and a buffer. I bought a 40 on the roadside in Moab and it was covered with spray paint and looked "rusty" She cleaned up pretty good and the rubbing compound left behind a bit of a sheen that was pretty nice. Super glad to see the emergence of the rustic look after years of paying $$$$ for painting...only to mess it up on a trail.

 

[wngrog]

Yeah, if there is good paint (like places on my FJ55) I do a cleaning compound by Griots Garage on my orbital

I let my rattle can paint cure for a few weeks and polished it hard to blend it with the OE Mulate red doors I liberated off of a 1973.

I found a good rattle can match Rustoleum Merlot and for the Cygnus White I used Rustoleum Ivory White.

 

[dogfishlake]

This picture was my homescreen on my phone for a long time, til I got a 55 of my own!
Love the look.

 

[wngrog]

This picture was my homescreen on my phone for a long time, til I got a 55 of my own!
Love the look.
View attachment 1814514

That was still just a little too chaotic for me.

I redid the white to match the hood and painted the fenders and roof.

 

[nc116]

Okay, perfect timing! So having read through this, I am a little lost on a couple things. Hopefully, my incomprehension can aid some other members. Just treat me like I'm 5...

So my 40 has a nice patina but also has a few rust spots like in the channels on the roof. I would really like to "stop" the rust and make it look prettier again.

From my understanding:

For outside and inside paint

1. Use CLR on a scotchbrite to clean where all the paint is and used to be
2. Use a rust converter (I have VHT brand though I haven't used it yet) on the bare rust only and avoid paint as much as you can
3. If necessary (due to too much overspray of converter), clean up again with CLR
4. Coat the outside paint and rust areas with either use boiled linseed oil (BLO), penetrol, or parafin (I have also read about ankor wax?)
5. repeat 3+4 every few months

For EVERYTHING underneath

1. Probably do an undercarriage wash with pressure washer or something
2. Spray rust converter everywhere that looks somewhat rusty, fill in rust holes with automotive expanding foam, metal tape, or weld if necessary
3. Cover everything in Fluid Film
4. Repeat 1+3 every few months

First of all, is that right?

Second, I was wondering if people can provide some more info about some of the specifics like:

• Where should you NOT use CLR, rust converter, boiled linseed oil, penetrol, parafin, and fluid film? I remember reading something about staying away from rubber? What about plastics? Fiberglass? Electronics? I read that the fluid film can catch fire or at least burn if sprayed on the exhaust
• What is the best thing to use in the roof channels? Just use fluid film? Or spray everything with rust converter?
• I know that BLO and penetrol can be used as additives for the paints. Although this is about patinas, has anyone followed the steps and then painted over them on the uglier areas?
• When is a good time to use an orbital polisher in this process?
• If the rust converter technically converts the rust, why could you not then clear coat? I don't want to clear coat, but I don't understand the reason why the rust would come back if it had been converted.
• Whoever has used penetrol (@Indygbd), is it honestly just use that product and nothing else? The 40 on the first page looks like it had some extra paint added, though maybe penetrol is as much of a miracle worker as I have read.
• @wngrog is there any reason you couldn't just cover the entire 40, paint and all, in fluid film? If it is so resilient, it seems like a great candidate.

 

[S4Cruiser]

Okay, perfect timing! So having read through this, I am a little lost on a couple things. Hopefully, my incomprehension can aid some other members. Just treat me like I'm 5...

So my 40 has a nice patina but also has a few rust spots like in the channels on the roof. I would really like to "stop" the rust and make it look prettier again.

From my understanding:

For outside and inside paint

1. Use CLR on a scotchbrite to clean where all the paint is and used to be - yes
2. Use a rust converter (I have VHT brand though I haven't used it yet) on the bare rust only and avoid paint as much as you can - yes
3. If necessary (due to too much overspray of converter), clean up again with CLR - yes
4. Coat the outside paint and rust areas with either use boiled linseed oil (BLO), penetrol, or parafin (I have also read about ankor wax?) - yes. Owatrol oil is another option too.
5. repeat 3+4 every few months - yes as needed based on need

For EVERYTHING underneath

1. Probably do an undercarriage wash with pressure washer or something - yes but you might need to scrap the gunk off first
2. Spray rust converter everywhere that looks somewhat rusty, fill in rust holes with automotive expanding foam, metal tape, or weld if necessary
3. Cover everything in Fluid Film - yes
4. Repeat 1+3 every few months - yes based on need

First of all, is that right? - yep!

Second, I was wondering if people can provide some more info about some of the specifics like:

• Where should you NOT use CLR, rust converter, boiled linseed oil, penetrol, parafin, and fluid film? I remember reading something about staying away from rubber? What about plastics? Fiberglass? Electronics? I read that the fluid film can catch fire or at least burn if sprayed on the exhaust
• What is the best thing to use in the roof channels? Just use fluid film? Or spray everything with rust converter? If your roof / rain gutters are leaking then you might need to recaulk them with a self leveling seam sealer.
• I know that BLO and penetrol can be used as additives for the paints. Although this is about patinas, has anyone followed the steps and then painted over them on the uglier areas? I haven’t but. Think painting over BLO is dependent on the paint you use (enamel vs urethane, etc.) the directions talk about which paints work over top
• When is a good time to use an orbital polisher in this process? - Whenever you have paint that can be polished but likely not places where the paint is cracking, peeling, etc.)
• If the rust converter technically converts the rust, why could you not then clear coat? I don't want to clear coat, but I don't understand the reason why the rust would come back if it had been converted. - it converts rust but unless you coat the raw metal with something it will rust again, hence covering with BLO, etc. the issue with clear coating is that unless you have a complete bond/covering then water can creep under it and create more rust.
• Whoever has used penetrol (@Indygbd), is it honestly just use that product and nothing else? The 40 on the first page looks like it had some extra paint added, though maybe penetrol is as much of a miracle worker as I have read.
• @wngrog is there any reason you couldn't just cover the entire 40, paint and all, in fluid film? If it is so resilient, it seems like a great candidate. - fluid film is more sticky thick consistency and I don’t think would provide good results on paint compared to BLO. Dirt and grim would stick to is like crazy.

I added couple moments to your questions above. You’re welcome to PM me and swing by to see some of the panels I’ve done for my yellow truck. I’m super close to Chapel hill...just down the street.

 

[wngrog]

Okay, perfect timing! So having read through this, I am a little lost on a couple things. Hopefully, my incomprehension can aid some other members. Just treat me like I'm 5...

So my 40 has a nice patina but also has a few rust spots like in the channels on the roof. I would really like to "stop" the rust and make it look prettier again.

From my understanding:

For outside and inside paint

1. Use CLR on a scotchbrite to clean where all the paint is and used to be
2. Use a rust converter (I have VHT brand though I haven't used it yet) on the bare rust only and avoid paint as much as you can
3. If necessary (due to too much overspray of converter), clean up again with CLR
4. Coat the outside paint and rust areas with either use boiled linseed oil (BLO), penetrol, or parafin (I have also read about ankor wax?)
5. repeat 3+4 every few months

For EVERYTHING underneath

1. Probably do an undercarriage wash with pressure washer or something
2. Spray rust converter everywhere that looks somewhat rusty, fill in rust holes with automotive expanding foam, metal tape, or weld if necessary
3. Cover everything in Fluid Film
4. Repeat 1+3 every few months

First of all, is that right?

Second, I was wondering if people can provide some more info about some of the specifics like:

• Where should you NOT use CLR, rust converter, boiled linseed oil, penetrol, parafin, and fluid film? I remember reading something about staying away from rubber? What about plastics? Fiberglass? Electronics? I read that the fluid film can catch fire or at least burn if sprayed on the exhaust
• What is the best thing to use in the roof channels? Just use fluid film? Or spray everything with rust converter?
• I know that BLO and penetrol can be used as additives for the paints. Although this is about patinas, has anyone followed the steps and then painted over them on the uglier areas?
• When is a good time to use an orbital polisher in this process?
• If the rust converter technically converts the rust, why could you not then clear coat? I don't want to clear coat, but I don't understand the reason why the rust would come back if it had been converted.
• Whoever has used penetrol (@Indygbd), is it honestly just use that product and nothing else? The 40 on the first page looks like it had some extra paint added, though maybe penetrol is as much of a miracle worker as I have read.
• @wngrog is there any reason you couldn't just cover the entire 40, paint and all, in fluid film? If it is so resilient, it seems like a great candidate.

Can I see a picture of your truck?

All your steps up and under are correct.

I would use Fluid Film in the channels as it will creep around into the cracks.

Read the Fluid Film FAQ. It’s safe in anything. It picks up dirt though. It’s stickier than CLR. I would not use it on the paint much. Just test it out. You can decide. It won’t hurt.

All this stuff kills the rust that it can get to. If there is some bubbling under the paint the clear will end up having the rust re appear.

As for the polisher I never used it on my 40 or 45 but the 55....I used it to polish the rough spray paint

 

[Dizzy]

Land Cruiser rubber and Fluid Film? Grommets, weather strip, etc?

 

[wngrog]

Land Cruiser rubber and Fluid Film? Grommets, weather strip, etc?

It won’t hurt the rubber at all. Will condition it. I put it on dried rubber.

 

[nc116]

Can I see a picture of your truck?

All your steps up and under are correct.

I would use Fluid Film in the channels as it will creep around into the cracks.

Read the Fluid Film FAQ. It’s safe in anything. It picks up dirt though. It’s stickier than CLR. I would not use it on the paint much. Just test it out. You can decide. It won’t hurt.

All this stuff kills the rust that it can get to. If there is some bubbling under the paint the clear will end up having the rust re appear.

As for the polisher I never used it on my 40 or 45 but the 55....I used it to polish the rough spray paint

Here are a few pictures. Paint is very oxidized. Lots of nice patina on the hood.

Is it simple enough just to use the spray cans? Or should I get the special sprayer set from the company?

It would be difficult for me to really repaint it because I would have to remove the stripes and they give a special look to my 40.

 

[wngrog]

That’s a perfect candidate.

You should peek under that diamond plate too. Another truck I saved had that. I pulled it off and I liked the mismatch better than the diamond.

 

[S4Cruiser]

@nc116 I bet after a CLR bath a lot of the rust colored spots will go away and a simple wax / oil treatment is all that’s needed. That hood patina is nice!

 

[nc116]

@nc116 I bet after a CLR bath a lot of the rust colored spots will go away and a simple wax / oil treatment is all that’s needed. That hood patina is nice!

Thanks! I'll bring it over sometime soon and we can discuss next steps

@wngrog I actually peeked under the diamond plate and I'm pretty sure the PO added it for looks. I haven't taken it off all the way (and don't want to jinx myself) but it looked okay. I'm not sure if I'd rather it as it is or with the diamond plate and fenders off...

 

[dogfishlake]

Here are a few pictures. Paint is very oxidized. Lots of nice patina on the hood.

Is it simple enough just to use the spray cans? Or should I get the special sprayer set from the company?

It would be difficult for me to really repaint it because I would have to remove the stripes and they give a special look to my 40.

View attachment 1816458

View attachment 1816459

That's a really nice Cruiser! I think as good as that original paint is, you might consider going after it with a regular variable speed buffer and compound, then foam pad and glaze. Follow up with wax. It would come back really well. I imagine burn through on the sharp edges might be an issue. The hood will look sweet too. There is still good paint under that oxidation waiting to shine!

 

[middlecalf]

Yeah, but the roof bra has to go