Preserving Patina - How To Tips and Tricks (2 Viewers)

[Jdc1]

An alternative to Fluid Film is Boeshield. It dries to the touch and has been great on the frame and underside of my dad's survivor.

Boeshield T-9® | Corrosion Protection and Waterproof Lubrication

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

Can you weld if you apply rust converter?

 

[wngrog]

An alternative to Fluid Film is Boeshield. It dries to the touch and has been great on the frame and underside of my dad's survivor.

Boeshield T-9® | Corrosion Protection and Waterproof Lubrication


View attachment 1813363

From what I read after you posted that the first time it is more a replacement for the rust Converter step, not the Fluid Film.

What I want for cracks and hidden spaces along with the leaf springs and undercarriage is the wet coat.

Thanks for the info

 

[rkymtnflyfisher]

Cool thread, I'm glad you posted this up so we can all get some insight to your method!

Agreed, this should make it to the FAQ or sticky section before it's all said and done.

 

[Indygbd]

View attachment 1813362

Im going to try a can of this next time I treat one of the trucks.

The “makes paint stick” is interesting as I would think that mean an oil based paint? I’m not painting anything but I would think that Boiled Linseed Oil would not be a good paint base.

Thanks for the tip. I’ll report back here my thoughts between the two

Again, I only apply this to the rust areas. I do not rub it over the entire truck. Usually after wet sanding and or buffing I can get the paint to look good without applying anything on it. (You can try the entire truck, I just have not needed to do that) The Penetrol will have a bit of a sticky feeling. Again, only use a very small about this helps. Depending on the size of the area maybe a quarter size spot for a foot of bare metal. Rub in well, and then wipe with down well with a clean dry rag. That is all I do.

Another Penetrol Tip. This stuff also works great as a paint additive. When brushing on paint and you do not want to see any brush marks when your finished, add a bit to the paint and mix well. It will allow the paint to almost melt together and look like it was sprayed on.

 

[wngrog]

The paint on the red 45 and green 40 is so pourous that a coat of BLO on the whole body works great.

On my 55 where there are exposed metal spots that are not necessarily crusty rusted this stuff sounds great.

On a hood like this that was super crusted over solid paint in places I chipped the paint back from the bare metal areas until there would be no more flaking.

Then I lightly scrubbed the paint clean with the scotchbrite and CLR

You can see the difference here

I noticed swirls in the single stage paint from the scotchbrite so I took an orbital polisher with polishing compound and polished them out being careful not to get the polish in the bare metal.

These photos are from my FJ55 build thread

The Warthog - 1977/73 combo

 

[reddog90]

@wngrog Thanks again for the details on the paint correction step. Sorry, but what's bad about getting the polish on the bare metal? Did you have to polish by hand up close to the big bare areas and around the small chips and then use the machine on the larger areas of good paint?

 

[Jdc1]

From what I read after you posted that the first time it is more a replacement for the rust Converter step, not the Fluid Film.

What I want for cracks and hidden spaces along with the leaf springs and undercarriage is the wet coat.

Thanks for the info

My reading comprehension has been lacking since Ive had kids.

Our painters sprayed this;
The Must for Rust - Rust Remover & Inhibitor
into the blind areas of the tub to help neutralize and protect between the seams. It seems to flow pretty well.

 

[wngrog]

@wngrog Thanks again for the details on the paint correction step. Sorry, but what's bad about getting the polish on the bare metal? Did you have to polish by hand up close to the big bare areas and around the small chips and then use the machine on the larger areas of good paint?

On that hood, because the rust was really more like bare metal that had smooth texture, it’s not hard to clean out so it’s not a big deal.

On the 45 and 40 with the real rough rusted metal that I wanted to keep looking natural and not polished Patina (I hate that) if you get white wax in the rusty metal it is hell to get out.

The only way to “polish” this would be to sand it and that would make it look like one of those dopey fake Patina jobs

 

[wngrog]

My reading comprehension has been lacking since Ive had kids.

Our painters sprayed this;
The Must for Rust - Rust Remover & Inhibitor
into the blind areas of the tub to help neutralize and protect between the seams. It seems to flow pretty well.

A guy brought a real nice original FJ40 to my house for the Swap Meet and it had little rubber plugs all over it where the dealer added this type stuff into the rust prone places.

I need to get some pics. It was pretty slick

 

[lumbee1]

My reading comprehension has been lacking since Ive had kids.

Our painters sprayed this;
The Must for Rust - Rust Remover & Inhibitor
into the blind areas of the tub to help neutralize and protect between the seams. It seems to flow pretty well.

Be very careful spraying krud kutter. It is phosphoric acid and one of the strongest rust converters I've used.
Corroseal is another option. It is a combination of rust converter and latex paint all in one. Brush it on and it converts the rust to black and then leaves a thin layer of flexible latex paint to protect the surface. It works really well on axles and suspension bits and leaves a satin black coating.

BTW, this is a fantastic thread and has inspired me to leave the patina on my 80 instead of paying $$$ to repaint it.

 

[wngrog]

One reason I like the things I use is that they are all basically temporary and there is very little pre-prep needed other than knocking the dirt off.

I like the idea of having to reapply and keep an eye on things versus trying to make it all perfect and then painting it.

I was gung ho on a clear coat on Patina until I realized I would have to basically sand it to bare steel for it not to bubble Up and trap the rust.

 

[morganism]

Linseed oil paints are some of the finest in the world. Used extensivley in Scandinavia, and high end artist paints. Was one of the original types, along with milk and vinegar paints. Works well on plaster too.

Is the only thing that stands up to direct desert sun, and hardens to a hard shell on wood. Fantastic on window frames and lintels, where it fills cracks, and strengthens thin crosspieces.
When you repaint, if you add a bit of kerosene or mineral spirits, it softens the old coat, bonding to it solidly. Not sure of coloring, but pre-mixed is VERY spendy from Europe.

Best thing for wood handle yard tools too, fills cracks, doesn't attract dirt, and highly uv resistant, unlike varnishes and urathanes.

 

[wngrog]

After whomping around in the mud last weekend, cleaning the underside was so much easier pre-treated with Fluid Film.

I pressure washed it and added a fresh coat.

Last Saturday

Today

 

[POTATO LAUNCHER]

I have to admit that Patina was a big inspiration for the finish on my latest trailer. Explored linseed oil options but decided on Penatrol in the end. All but the hubs and wheels are completely bare. I will be using it again.
Tons of prep with heavy Scotchbright on all surfaces then a follow up with denatured alcohol. This stuff self levels and is very forgiving, used throw away chipping brush for application. Dry time for a heavy cost was about a week. It is as hard as paint in about 2 weeks. Has held up pretty well and touchup is easy peasy.

 

[wngrog]

That is a pimp trailer. I think for bare metal that is the way to go.

Back in the day I purchased a Tig welded tube buggy from a real great welder out of California.

He ran it bare for about a year with no rust issues. I moved it to Texas and it was rust red in a week. That would have been a great way to treat it.

 

[BreckenridgeCruiser]

This thread is perfectly timed! I am just working on a real survivor and the thought of letting it rust to death killed me. I thought the only option would be to have it repainted and sealed but this thread gives so many options .

I do have one major question ... How do these techniques hold up in salty areas? I am near the ocean and we have salt air and fog that can hasten the rusting process. Would you modify these techniques in any way for my environment?

 

[wngrog]

It’s the salty roads where Fluid Film shines because you lay it on thick and it creeps, coats and kills.

If I had and open areas on the exterior I would not hesitate to do my normal CLR, Rust Converter, Boiled Linseed Oil coat then add a bit of Fluid Film where you are most concerned.

For example. This seam on the cowl

and this spot where I removed the OEM tire carrier.

Both are rocking external Fluid Film.

In salt air areas it seems like Cruisers rust from the top down. Pay close attention to your drip rails. Mine are swimming in fluid film. Especially where the roof rack attaches

 

[Indygbd]

These photos show how a thin coat of Penetrol protected my bare steel welding table after only one application a year ago.

 

[BreckenridgeCruiser]

I'm liking this more and more!