Pre Purchase Inspection, Post Inspection & PM of Toyota or Lexus 200 series (1 Viewer)

[2001LC]

I am asking for help building lists. I'm inspecting a 200 series monday and can use some help.

I'd like to dedicate this thread first to inspecting and then maintaining the 200 series. With the 200 series in its 10th year, a comprehensive list of a good PPI (pre purchase inspection), post purchase inspectioning, along with PM can be built. A list of what issue are costing owners headaches, $$ and what PM is best practice to maintain reliability.

First is PPI:

I'm about to dip my toes in the water and inspect my first 200 series. The Lexus LX570 being a Land Cruiser with lipstick would have many similarities to the LC, with the biggest difference being the AHC.
With my limited knowledge of the 200 series today, I'll assume the other difference/options are going to deal more with creature comforts. Naturally any added option(s) would mean more potential issues or maintenance items to be inspected & addressed as would changes in the different years.

For me as a general rule, inspection of any vehicle follows the same procedure. These days it starts online reading description and viewing pictures. A really nice service Toyota/Lexus offers is; the ability to input the VIN into their web portal. From this I can see vehicle detail, maintenance history along with clues of locations of use.

I build all the history (logs) I can, this includes speaking with owner if private party. From this I learn what other work that may have been done outside of Toyota or Lexus Dealer and by whom, also driving & cleaning habits of owner. I'll ask about things like rust, condition, accidents, leaks and see where conversation leads. In the 100 series I've learned if seller uses Jiffy lube, then I'll know to take a very close look for missing oil services hatches, plug gaskets and for lack of servicing of the propeller shafts yokes and spiders. But even Dealer miss this stuff, just not as frequently. Dealer service is great, but I can't begin here to spell-out all the issues I've corrected that Dealer Shops messed up or missed. So I'm interested in all work done and where done as to clues of what to look for, as well as if known issues have been corrected.

If things look good at this point, I'll pull a carfax, which helps me confirm information I've be told, accidents, mileage and locations of use and title.

All the above helps me build a profile of use, maintenance and general honesty of seller's statements.

For me, if more than a year or so in the rust belt state, I'll just move on to next target. Rust is just something I personally don't want to deal with. I wrench and dealing with frozen bolts and rusted parts is just a PITA and costly. But even more of a concern can be inside the body panels where I can't see. I'm not overly concerned with the rust we get in Colorado from winter road chemicals, when it comes to inner body panels. But even our Colorado vehicles when undercarriage not clean regularly may present it's corrosion issue and challenges to undercarriage components. Pictures of undercarriage are helpful to spot heavy rust, this, but in some cases the girm hides what I really need to see. A good eye is needed to see past the grim, using it as clues of what to zero in on. Grim or dirt can also be useful in spotting leaks, so not all bad.

I spend about 5 hour on the average with investigating, before I ever see the vehicle. This gives me a real good idea at what I'll be looking at, along with building a list of special area to zoom in on. With the 100 series when I do my hands on inspection, I know from experience, aera to pay special attention to. With the 200 series I need all the help I can get today.

Hopefully the collective wisdom of the 200 series forum input here will add to this thread. Not only the special areas that should be given extra time or zoom in on, but also with general inspection along with maintenance schedule & tips.

Any tips will sure help me in next few days, and hopefully all for many years to come.

Thanks to all that contribute in this thread, and those that created, maintain and moderator the ih8mud forum making it the world wide renowned community it is.

 

[2001LC]

PPI: (Work in progress, I'll keep updating the list.)

Areas of known issues (These are areas that should be give extra attentions during inspection);

1. Cam tower oil leaks.
2. Timing Chain cover oil leaks.
3. Water pump leak.
4. Radiator leak near label.
5. Heat exchanger cover or valley plate coolant leak under intake.
   
6. KDSS valves. Recessed allen head set screws frozen in from rust building on top in threads. None AHC (Land Cruiser)
   
7. CDL frozen from lack of use.

 

[2001LC]

Post inspection. (Work in progress, I'll keep updating the list.)

Remove undershield (skid plate & #2) and engine cover. Take lots of picture.
Inspect undercarriage end to end closely for oily, greases or wet spots, damaged or missing bolts or parts. Take lots of picture.
Inspect undercarriage includes all components of:

Suspension
Brakes
Control arms
Ball joints, steering
Propeller shafts
Exhaust
Differentials
Transfer Case
Transmission
Engine.
Frame
Body
Body mounts
Fuel lines
fuel tank.
​

Inspect engine bay. Take lots of picture.

 

[2001LC]

Maintaining: (Work in progress, I'll keep updating the list.)

PM (I'll be filling in a list over time)
.
.
.
.
Links:
Drivetrain Fluids. US Land Cruiser

Expected repairs:

1. Starter (Solenoid) 120K with average start and stop cycles.

 

[Malleus]

If everyone on this forum who mentions cam tower leaks had one, I'd open my own business and make a fortune. This was a limited year model assembly related failure centered around the Land Cruiser '10 models. The LX wasn't affected. There is a common Tundra/LC/LX starter failure that needs to be listed. It's more designed obsolescence than design or assembly problem. Since it's tucked between the heads on the top rear of the engine, it's a true PITA.

The LX is certainly more comfortable than the L/C, but no less capable. The major mechanical difference is the AHC, but it's probably the least point of concern. The system has been installed for over a decade on various platforms with an excellent service record. Since it's 100% hydraulic, there's very little to fail.

If you have to buy new, and price is a deciding factor the L/C is the way to go. If buying used, IMHO, the LX is the value option. You get more for your money, and the resale is always higher.

Sounds like you're well on your way.

 

[TonyP]

centered around the Land Cruiser '10 models.

Then why did my '13 have it?

 

[Malleus]

Bad karma?

 

[chilibit]

You get more for your money, and the resale is always higher.

I thought that LX depreciation, possibly as a result of buyer demographics, was higher and that converted to value in the used market but not higher resale prices.

 

[2001LC]

I added radiator leak near label to PPI above.

If everyone on this forum who mentions cam tower leaks had one, I'd open my own business and make a fortune. This was a limited year model assembly related failure centered around the Land Cruiser '10 models. The LX wasn't affected. There is a common Tundra/LC/LX starter failure that needs to be listed. It's more designed obsolescence than design or assembly problem. Since it's tucked between the heads on the top rear of the engine, it's a true PITA.

The LX is certainly more comfortable than the L/C, but no less capable. The major mechanical difference is the AHC, but it's probably the least point of concern. The system has been installed for over a decade on various platforms with an excellent service record. Since it's 100% hydraulic, there's very little to fail.

If you have to buy new, and price is a deciding factor the L/C is the way to go. If buying used, IMHO, the LX is the value option. You get more for your money, and the resale is always higher.

Sounds like you're well on your way.

One poll suggest cam tower leak is found in more years (IDK).
It's was my belief; both LX & LC engine are from same assembly line. Am I wrong?

When you speak of the starter are you referring to the 100 or 200 series? Is there some issue with 200 series starters failing at some mileage or what's the deal?

(I'd not heard of any issue with starters in the 100 series, other than PITA to get at.)

Then why did my '13 have it?

Very good point, and from someone that wrenches

I thought that LX depreciation, possibly as a result of buyer demographics, was higher and that converted to value in the used market but not higher resale prices.

Demographics may have some weight on resale value between LC & LC.
I also feel two other factors play in value"

1) With all the added bells and whistles, there's more to maintain and replaced in the LX. This increases cost of ownership, not to mention Lexus ~30 to 50% higher shop and parts cost. But hey, they've got a great waiting remove and coffee. Look online at Kuni Lexus in Denver. A coffee bar, pool table with rooftop deck and the best views in Town of the front range.

2) Offroads guy's that build heavy beast, seem to prefer non AHC. Some with better understanding of the KDSS / AHC than I, and that builds please correct me if I'm wrong and enlighten me?

I'll add a third possibility. Which seem many feel they should just rip out AHC, or at least this is case in the 100 series. I like the AHC, but I've not built and offroad rig (yet)

 

[TeCKis300]

Good thread. On any other platform, there would be a much larger set of material issues. Looking at the initial list, there's really not anything truly pervasive nor are any of them really truly show stoppers in my mind. Credit the robustness and quality to the 200-platform. Some on the list are in the realm of maintenance related items for higher mileage cars.

1) With all the added bells and whistles, there's more to maintain and replaced in the LX. This increases cost of ownership, not to mention Lexus ~30 to 50% higher shop and parts cost. But hey, they've got a great waiting remove and coffee. Look online at Kuni Lexus in Denver. A coffee bar, pool table with rooftop deck and the best views in Town of the front range.

2) Offroads guy's that build heavy beast, seem to prefer non AHC. Some with better understanding of the KDDS / AHC than I and that builds please correct me if I'm wrong and enlighten me?

I'll add a third possibility. Which seem many feel they should just rip out AHC, or at least this is case in the 100 series. I like the AHC, but I've not built and offroad rig (yet)

While the Lexus models do have features and accessories, that doesn't necessarily mean they are more prone to fail. Lexus has higher standards for their suppliers than Toyota, for x number of defects out of 1000, even on sister platforms. This doesn't take away from the LC at all, but perhaps it may offset some of the added complexity on the LX.

In regards to heavy builds/AHC, also note that the LC OE fitted suspension is not up the the task. AHC is more competent in this regard, and more effective to higher loads as it can directly compensate, up to a point. It can further be augmented easily with spring spacers and/or bags. In towing, I've been at 1800lb payload (~1250lb sticker rated) without issue. That said, if one truly builds heavy with full armor, an LC is more suited as you can get a tailored suspension for the load and or usage. But none will be as flexible or reliable as AHC in general use.

 

[Malleus]

Yes the starters on the 5.7 engines are known to have age related failures at 100k. This is a starter problem, not an engine or model problem.

I never said that other year models couldn't have leaks, I merely pointed out that the campaign was limited to a given time period, for reasons well documented. The point I was making was that the "cam tower leak" has become the 200 series version of the 80 series headgasket.

And yes, the L/C and LX come the similar lines (not the same assembly line), but apparently the stock of components are segregated.

 

[2001LC]

Yes the starters on the 5.7 engines are known to have age related failures at 100k. This is a starter problem, not an engine or model problem.

I never said that other year models couldn't have leaks, I merely pointed out that the campaign was limited to a given time period, for reasons well documented. The point I was making was that the "cam tower leak" has become the 200 series version of the 80 series headgasket.

And yes, the L/C and LX come the similar lines (not the same assembly line), but apparently the stock of components are segregated.

Is it a Denso starter?
What is the failure point; contacts or is it possible related to auto crank feature or...?

I've been trying to get a better handle on where the different model are build and the drive trains. Both in the 100 and 200 series from LC to Tundra. I find information a bit ,,,,...scatter and scant... Anyone have a handle on this stuff....Hummmm

Here something interesting I just learned. Aftermarket engine rebuild kits are readily available for all but the 2UZ-fe. By readitly I mean a local mechanic shop, that a Local Toyota Dealer uses supplier' skips over (not available) the 2UZ-fe going to the 3UZ.

The 2UZ is one h&$$ of a 1 million mile engine that doesn't use oil.

How the 3UZ working out?

 

[TonyP]

Is it a Denso starter?
What is the failure point; contacts or is it possible related to auto crank feature or...?

The solenoid takes a dump, apparently. Usually around the 130k mark. But milage doesn't exactly effect a starter. The constant engagement does. You can drive 200k miles and start a car less then a 100k mile car. Also, there's an updated starter that's a smaller unit. More info here:
Project Fauxverlander 200 Series Land Cruiser Build Thread

 

[2001LC]

Good thread. On any other platform, there would be a much larger set of material issues. Looking at the initial list, there's really not anything truly pervasive nor are any of them really truly show stoppers in my mind. Credit the robustness and quality to the 200-platform. Some on the list are in the realm of maintenance related items for higher mileage cars.



While the Lexus models do have features and accessories, that doesn't necessarily mean they are more prone to fail. Lexus has higher standards for their suppliers than Toyota, for x number of defects out of 1000, even on sister platforms. This doesn't take away from the LC at all, but perhaps it may offset some of the added complexity on the LX.

In regards to heavy builds/AHC, also note that the LC OE fitted suspension is not up the the task. AHC is more competent in this regard, and more effective to higher loads as it can directly compensate, up to a point. It can further be augmented easily with spring spacers and/or bags. In towing, I've been at 1800lb payload (~1250lb sticker rated) without issue. That said, if one truly builds heavy with full armor, an LC is more suited as you can get a tailored suspension for the load and or usage. But none will be as flexible or reliable as AHC in general use.

My experience with any vehicle form the 50's to moderner times. Was/is all the extra (bell, whistles & creature comforts) was just more to fix. We were in the camp of no AC, no power windows just engine and power. Don't get me wrong the reliability of each new series has always improved, this includes extra. But stuff breaks, and needs fixing! More stuff more fixing!

I've got a lot to learn with the 200 series plate-form. From dealing with the series 100 LC & LX. Most prats I just get from Toyota for both. The Lexus parts have same numbers and come in same packaging. This, of course, is not the case with all parts. Say like the hood, headlights, trim, seats etc.. But when it come to the engine, gearbox, bearings it's all the same. Is this not the case with the 200 series?

Did Toyota separate the manufacture of the LX & LC plants and supplies?

 

[2001LC]

The solenoid takes a dump, apparently. Usually around the 130k mark. But milage doesn't exactly effect a starter. The constant engagement does. You can drive 200k miles and start a car less then a 100k mile car. Also, there's an updated starter that's a smaller unit. More info here:
Project Fauxverlander 200 Series Land Cruiser Build Thread

130K is not bad, not great. Looks like removing exhaust manifold or at least pipe required to get out. If I've got that right just as well done sooner before exhaust bolt get to old.

I've got 6 special areas of interest to check out in post #2, so far. Any others anyone can think of?

 

[Chocolate]

You'll probably want to change the transfer case and front and rear differential gear oil as well once you get your 200 as a PM. The factory fill on my front and rear diffs in particular was pretty dark at 40k/4.5 years and the magnetic drain plugs can use a good cleaning.

 

[Ali FJ80]

Hey Paul, I see your thinking of making the jump. I would add the heat exchanger cover or valley plate coolant leak to your list of things to look at. One of ours developed that issue and being under the intake manifold its a bit of work to reseal.

 

[2001LC]

Thanks Ali, I'll add that above.

So you liking your 200's?

 

[Ali FJ80]

Yes, quite a bit.

 

[2001LC]

This 2011LC 79K is Magnetic Gray Met. IIRC Ali, this is/was your favorite color.

After closing the sell of The Black Knight (06LC w/59K OMG clean) with an "ACE" of a mud member. He really helped me put the day together, by meeting with us on side of HWY's at I-70 & US-40. Then driving with my GF & I to Glenwood Springs to close our deal. He then left me in Town as we waited for the seller of the 200 series. We had great weather, a sunny and mild day to do a parking lot inspect.

I had asked the seller to meet near the DMV of GW Springs, so title could be cleaned for transfer. He parked in someones privet spot and headed offer to DMV as I inspected without keys. Sure enough owner (a lawyer) of parking space showed, was not to happy. But we talked and he was cool, kinda!

I started by looking over general appearance. Vehicle had not been clean as I asked it be for inspection, not uncommon from private sellers. But regardless nothing jump out at me. Actually much fewer rock chips then I expected to see from a HWY rig, but then not much traffic between GW Springs & Salt Lake City where most miles were put on. A good cleaning and some paint perfecting, and body should be a 9 out of 10, time will tell.

Interior looks good no issue here that I'm concerned with. A good cleaning and it my be a 10 of 10, will see.

I moved around vehicle with using a mechanic's fender protector laid on ground to lay on, as I inspected undercarriage. Using a flashlight to inspect undercarriage for damage, rust and leaks. Again nothing remarkable, just typical lack of good undercarriage cleaning. Undercarriage cleaning is something I spent a great deal of time on personally, espectly in the winter. But hey, I wrench getting unders these rigs all the time. I, not only hate crap falling in my eyes, keeping clean reduce corrosion and premature failure of components from road grim. It's actually better for me if it's not been cleaned for at least a 1K miles, this way leaks standout.

Next was suspension, no leaks or anything remarkable. I tried to see allen screws of KDSS valve but failed to spot them. Condition and age of undercarriage was good enough that I wasn't to concerned here, so I moved on.

Moving under the hood. Inspecting head cover & cam towers through wheels and with a mirror around head from top side. Fender protector handy here as well. Happy to report nothing remarkable here.

Next was looking around radiator, water pump and under intake nothing remarkable here. No leaks spotted or smelt, like sweet smell of coolant or burning oil. I did not have a borescope to really get under intake and in tight spot, something I do feel I need for the 200 more so than 100 series.

Not a big concern, but I did notice about half way down oil dipstick tube a change in color, but couldn't tell why?

Power steering reservoir looked good as to level, but I doubt ever flushed.

Seller returned with clean title and we headed out on test drive. I notice just the smallest bit of sway in turns, which he was quick to point out ruts in road. Not overly concerned here as it's running on worn snow tires, and TPMS indicates pressure varying by a pound or two.

Acceleration was good and shifting smooth as silk. Nothing remarkable here.

Believe it or not, we had to look hard to find a slick area in January high in the Rocky Mountains, man it was dry up there and a storm had come through two days earlier. But found one snow cover loose dirt area to run some test.

First was finding the CDL switch with sunglasses on. Light came on after short period of flashing was solid. Hard to feel on loose road or hear, but all seemed good with engagement.

Next I wanted to test Crawl Control function. I was counting on seller to show me how to engage, but he'd never even turned on CDL, 4L or Crawl. So it took us a minute or two reading dash (MUST BE IN L4) finding L4 (where's the shifter..LOL) to get engaged. Well all I can say is it was noisey and a bit unsettle for my first time on a loose, snow, grade in Crawl. It worked!

Playing with other buttons and activating NAV screen test sequence (key on, hold DISPLAY, on off park lights 3 times) everything check OK.

I also plugge in my bluetooth scan a ran a full scan. Nothing pasted, current or pending. So all seems good.

Inspection went well, so I close the Deal in about 90 minute after first sight of this very clean looking 20011LC. Funny my 2001LC was the 50th anniversary of the Land Cruiser, now (my first 200) is the 60th. Anyway, I was happy with condition, which meant I wasn't taking the Zephyr mountain train home to Denver. Off to the bank to close.

Grab some lunch and hit the road for 175 mile drive home. Power to spare and good MPG.

Mid Vail (Lions Head) Man, has it changed form the 70's

Copper Mountain east side of Vail pass.

My inspection kit, fender protector, overalls and old ski parka fit nicely in small backpack.