Drivetrain Fluids. US Land Cruiser

[arich]

I want to change out the Diff and transfer oils now that I'm approaching 60,000.
Here is the Info I found on the Global Service info center. (below)
I was going to use AMS Oil like I did in the 100 but I'm looking for the Mud's advice, stick with stock toyota fluids are try, AMSoil, Mobil 1 Redline etc!

HERE is what I have found:

Front & Rear Diff:
LT 75W-85 GL-5 (US Model I assume)
Rear Diff with LSD:
LX 75W-85 GL-5
----------------------------
The Transfer case requires:
API GL-5 SAE 75W-90
which curiously is listed below "no AMSoil product recommended" while the while the severe gear oil lists as API GL-5.
-------------------------
Transmission Fluid:
Toyota Genuine ATF WS transmission fluid

Maybe I am over thinking this and I'll just use Toyota. Have any 200 owners been through this?

FROM THE TOYOTA GLOBAL SITE:

Front differential oil type and viscosity:
Toyota Genuine Differential gear oil LT 75W-85 GL-5 or equivalent
Rear Differential Oil Type and Viscosity:
Item
Oil Type and Viscosity
w/o LSD
Toyota Genuine Differential gear oil LT 75W-85 GL-5 or equivalent
w/ LSD
Toyota Genuine Differential gear oil LX 75W-85 GL-5 or equivalent
Front differential capacity:
1.85 to 1.95 liters (1.96 to 2.06 US qts., 1.63 to 1.71 Imp. qts.)
Rear Differential Capacity:
Item
Specified Condition
Standard
4.15 to 4.25 liters (4.39 to 4.49 US qts., 3.66 to 3.74 Imp. qts.)
w/ LSD
4.10 to 4.20 liters (4.34 to 4.43 US qts., 3.60 to 3.69 Imp. qts.)
w/ Differential lock

Transfer Case:
Check that the oil level is between 0 to 5.0 mm (0 to 0.197 in.) from the bottom lip of the filler plug hole.
If the result is not as specified, add transfer oil.

Oil Grade:
GL-5
Viscosity:
SAE 75W-90
Standard Capacity:
1.4 to 1.5 liters (1.47 to 1.59 US qts, 1.23 to 1.32 Imp. qts)
NOTICE:
Too much or too little oil will lead to transfer problems.
AMS Oil Info:
2011 TOYOTA LAND CRUISER 5.7L 8-cyl Engine Code 3UR-FE



FROM AMS Oil Site:

LUBRICANTS & FLUIDS:


Engine Oil
Grade 1......API*
Maximum Performance SAE 0W-20 Signature Series 100% Synthetic Motor Oil (ASMQT)

Performance Plus SAE 0W-20 XL Extended Life Synthetic Motor Oil (XLZQT)

Performance SAE 0W-20 OE Synthetic Motor Oil (OEZQT)

All TEMPS......0W-20 [1]
Automatic Transmission,AB60F......WS
Signature Series Fuel-Efficient Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATL) (ATLQT)
OE Fuel-Efficient Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid (OTLQT)
Differential, Front......GL-5
All TEMPS......75W-85
SEVERE GEAR 75W-90 Synthetic EP Lubricant (SVGQT)
Differential, Rear......GL-5
All TEMPS......75W-85
SEVERE GEAR 75W-90 Synthetic EP Lubricant (SVGQT)
Transfer Case,......GLS [2]
No AMSOIL Product Recommendation
Fluids
Power Steering Fluid......AF3
Signature Series Multi-Vehicle Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) (ATFQT)
Power Steering Fluid......AF3
OE Multi-Vehicle Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid (OTFQT) [3]
Brake Fluid......HB
AMSOIL Brake Fluid DOT-3 (BF3SN) [4]
[1] 0W-20 is the best choice for good fuel economy and starting
in cold weather. If 0W-20 is not available 5W-20 may be
used. However, it must be replaced with 0W-20 at the next
oil change.
[2] Use Toyota genuine LF type gear oil.
[3] DEXRON®-III Automatic Transmission Fluid
[4] Hydraulic Brake Fluid, DOT 3

 

[bjowett]

75W85 is for mileage. Use 75W90 GL5 in all diffs and transfer case.

 

[SWUtah]

I get a kick out of the fact the service recommendations in the owners manual for my 2011 LX never recommends any drivetrain fluid changes unless you are towing, severe service WTF. I will change them at 35K and the transmission fluid with WS at 100k, but I am a mall cruiser. I would go with Jowett recommendation or ask Slee. Last year they did all synthetics in my 100, plus WS exchange in the trans.

 

[arich]

Brian
Synthetic or Toyota fluids.

If synthetic specifically which?

I use to use AMS Oil Synthetic Gear Lube in the 100 so I was considering the
AMS OIL Severe Gear oil 75W-90 for Transfer and Diffs ($11.55 qt) after researching a few FJ offroad sites.
This is a Cool Article/Study:
http://www.lastgreatroadtrip.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/gear-oil-comparison.pdf
Found this HERE

Conclusion
As the testing indicates, AMSOIL Severe Gear ranked highest among all gear lubes tested. It was the only gear lube to
score a 4 or better in all performance categories. The high ranking of AMSOIL Severe Gear clearly points to a well-balanced
formulation capable of delivering effective, long-lasting lubrication protection to all differential components. Most notable is
the superior performance of AMSOIL Severe Gear in the critical areas of extreme-pressure protection and viscosity and
oxidation stability. Based on the performance testing, the slightly higher than average price of AMSOIL Severe Gear would
be offset by the cost savings achieved through reduced maintenance, longer lasting differentials and extended lubricant life.

 

[SWUtah]

Brian
Synthetic or Toyota fluids.

If synthetic specifically which?

I use to use AMS Oil Synthetic Gear Lube in the 100 so I was considering the
AMS OIL Severe Gear oil 75W-90 for Transfer and Diffs ($11.55 qt) after researching a few FJ offroad sites.
This is a Cool Article/Study:
http://www.lastgreatroadtrip.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/gear-oil-comparison.pdf
Found this HERE

Conclusion
As the testing indicates, AMSOIL Severe Gear ranked highest among all gear lubes tested. It was the only gear lube to
score a 4 or better in all performance categories. The high ranking of AMSOIL Severe Gear clearly points to a well-balanced
formulation capable of delivering effective, long-lasting lubrication protection to all differential components. Most notable is
the superior performance of AMSOIL Severe Gear in the critical areas of extreme-pressure protection and viscosity and
oxidation stability. Based on the performance testing, the slightly higher than average price of AMSOIL Severe Gear would
be offset by the cost savings achieved through reduced maintenance, longer lasting differentials and extended lubricant life.

Too bad it does not include the Toyota gear lube they use in our trucks

 

[arich]

What do you mean?

 

[SWUtah]

What do you mean?

The analysis attachment that had all the different greases listed and evaluated. I did not see the OEM grease listed

 

[arich]

Oh, you're right. That would have been useful.

 

[SWUtah]

Yes I hope the OEM stuff is within the good range, since I just had the Lexus dealer change the frt. rear diff. And transfer case using Toyota 80w90

 

[apdxyk]

This is a Cool Article/Study:
http://www.lastgreatroadtrip.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/gear-oil-comparison.pdf

It takes a while to learn how to read Amsoil 'tests'. If you look at the affidavit (at the end) and search for the names on it, they are miraculously cross reference to Amsoil employees' names.

If you really want a high performing boutique lube with outlandish pricing and superior performance, you could take a look at Lubrication Engineers - state of art. OTOH, anything from Mobil, Castrol, Chevron, Shell, Fuchs, Motul will do just fine for a fraction of the price.

 

[MooseRDS]

I just did all three (fr diff, rear diff, and transfer) on my 2014 and went back and forth on which fluid to use. In the end, I used my TLCA discount at the dealer and just ordered the Toyota fluids. They are very specific and very pricey (I think they must be made from unicorn tears). I paid about $300 for all fluids and drain/fill plug seals. I could have likely gone a little off spec and used a quality name brand lube for about one third that price. So, why spend the extra? Well, it was purely a personal choice. I've read tons of opinions and studies about different lubes. They all say different things. In the end, I figured the folks who know what lube works best in my diffs and transfer case are the engineers who tested those fluids in those components in the first place. I didn't want to take the chance that a part or coating internally had been updated at some point and is not compatible with a certain additive or synthetic. If I pay an extra $200 every 2 years for Toyota lubes in these components, I don't mind. Once again, personal choice. If these thinner Toyota lubes get me better mileage, maybe I get some of that cost back in fuel savings. I also don't have to concern myself with the "what ifs" of making a wrong choice. My owners manual called for 75W-85 LT or equivalent in the diffs and a very specific 75W LF or equivalent in the transfer case. I have no idea what is equivalent to 75W LF. It may be perfectly OK to use different weights than the manual says. I just know I've got it right for sure if I go with what the owner's manual says.

My wife's 10 year old Mercedes only recommends Mobil 1 0W-40 European Car Formula in the engine so that's what I use. I'm glad Toyota is fine with me choosing my brand of 0W-20 in the engine. I also only use Toyota coolant in both my LC's. My manual gives me a lot more flexibility the lube in the transfer case of my 100 LC so Mobil 1 syn 75W-90 goes in there.

 

[bjowett]

Some transfer case fluid info can be found at the following link.

Transfer case fluid

 

[marques]

I'm a big fan of Redline fluids. 75W90 gear oil for the front/rear differentials and transfer case. Good stuff and you can conservatively run it for 50k miles between changes (unless you submerge the axles and get water in there...)

 

[ceb]

It takes a while to learn how to read Amsoil 'tests'. If you look at the affidavit (at the end) and search for the names on it, they are miraculously cross reference to Amsoil employees' names.

If you really want a high performing boutique lube with outlandish pricing and superior performance, you could take a look at Lubrication Engineers - state of art. OTOH, anything from Mobil, Castrol, Chevron, Shell, Fuchs, Motul will do just fine for a fraction of the price.

I just love the amSOIL ads that "recommend" their fluids for most applications but they actually aren't tested to any standards. I recommend that you use my maple syrup/beer blend for differential fluid. It works well and doubles as a great marinade.

Any possible advantages of a boutique fluid wouldn't show up for hundreds of thousands of miles and by then it'll be impossible to determine if it was the fluid or something else.

Quality mainstream fluids (OE or otherwise) that have been tested to meet the specs set forward by the manufacturer are usually the best choice - and won't cause warranty woes.

 

[ceb]

...My wife's 10 year old Mercedes only recommends Mobil 1 0W-40 European Car Formula in the engine so that's what I use. I'm glad Toyota is fine with me choosing my brand of 0W-20 in the engine. I also only use Toyota coolant in both my LC's. My manual gives me a lot more flexibility the lube in the transfer case of my 100 LC so Mobil 1 syn 75W-90 goes in there.

That is incorrect. Mercedes requires an oil that meets a specific standard. While they can "recommend" a brand (by getting paid to print that recommendation on the 710 cap), they cannot legally mandate a certain brand unless they supply it at no charge - that, in essence, is the basics of the often mis-quoted Magnusson-Moss warranty act. A manufacturer cannot require a specific brand of replacement part (but may require a specification) and they may not deny warranty service based upon the mere presence of a substantially similar aftermarket part.

In this case, Mercedes has set a specification for oils. That is met by the Euro Mobil 1 but also by the Castrol, ELF, Pennzoil or a variety of other oils that are tested to meet that standard. There isn't anything magical about the Mobil 1 except that they paid MB to advertise for them.

 

[MooseRDS]

That is incorrect. Mercedes requires an oil that meets a specific standard. While they can "recommend" a brand (by getting paid to print that recommendation on the 710 cap), they cannot legally mandate a certain brand unless they supply it at no charge - that, in essence, is the basics of the often mis-quoted Magnusson-Moss warranty act. A manufacturer cannot require a specific brand of replacement part (but may require a specification) and they may not deny warranty service based upon the mere presence of a substantially similar aftermarket part.

In this case, Mercedes has set a specification for oils. That is met by the Euro Mobil 1 but also by the Castrol, ELF, Pennzoil or a variety of other oils that are tested to meet that standard. There isn't anything magical about the Mobil 1 except that they paid MB to advertise for them.

If you read my post, you would see I said the Mercedes manual "only recommends" Mobil 1. I didn't say "only requires." They have a reason for recommending the European car formula for likely the same reason Mobil makes a European car formula. What I stated was correct. It is the only oil Mercedes reccomends. You jumped to a conclusion. Would appreciate you not throwing flames. Use whatever you like. I prefer going with the design engineers recommendations.

 

[ceb]

If you read my post, you would see I said the Mercedes manual "only recommends" Mobil 1. I didn't say "only requires." They have a reason for recommending the European car formula for likely the same reason Mobil makes a European car formula. What I stated was correct. It is the only oil Mercedes reccomends. You jumped to a conclusion. Would appreciate you not throwing flames. Use whatever you like. I prefer going with the design engineers recommendations.

Correct. But in this case you ARE equating "recommended" with "required" since you are using what the "design engineers recommend". Your comment about being glad that Toyota lets you pick the brand of oil is also indicative of your incorrect assumption that MB requires the use Mobil. If you didn't think that then why differentiate between MB and Toyota?

In reality, you are using what the advertisers want to sell you. Mobil 1 that meets the MB specs is no different that all the other oils that meet that same spec. It looks like it paid off for Mobil to pay for that "recommendation". Like I said earlier, they are recommending it because they are getting paid to recommend it - but you would have known that had you read my post.

That said, there isn't anything wrong with Mobil - it is identical to all of the other oils that meet the MB spec.

Not a flame, just an observation for others - since you'll be using the recom-quired Mobil.

 

[MooseRDS]

Correct. But in this case you ARE equating "recommended" with "required" since you are using what the "design engineers recommend". Your comment about being glad that Toyota lets you pick the brand of oil is also indicative of your incorrect assumption that MB requires the use Mobil. If you didn't think that then why differentiate between MB and Toyota?

In reality, you are using what the advertisers want to sell you. Mobil 1 that meets the MB specs is no different that all the other oils that meet that same spec. It looks like it paid off for Mobil to pay for that "recommendation". Like I said earlier, they are recommending it because they are getting paid to recommend it - but you would have known that had you read my post.

That said, there isn't anything wrong with Mobil - it is identical to all of the other oils that meet the MB spec.

Not a flame, just an observation for others - since you'll be using the recom-quired Mobil.

Look, you don't get it. You're abrasive. My point was that if I use anything other than Mobil 1 Euro in my wife's Merc, I am using something outside what the manufacturer recommends because their recommendation is so narrow. It's up to me now to determine if the other brand is what the manufacturer intended me to use. With Toyota, they set a spec rating and let me choose the brand of oil without me going outside the manufacturer recommended fluid. There is no meaningful cost advantage to go outside the Mercedes spec so why do it when they tell me what they would like me to use. Manufacturers work with oil companies very closely. They develop additives specific for certain manufactures. Other oil companies may closely duplicate a blend but chances are it's not exactly what was tested during engine development.

In my aircraft, there was a huge difference in oil consumption between Aeroshell and Philips of the same spec. Both quality oils but the Aeroshell was proven to be a better performer in my engine. Still, guys who liked Philips because it was fine in their other plane or they liked the ad campaign, ended up switching back to Aeroshell. Everyone has their favorite oil. Use what you want.

 

[ceb]

Look, you don't get it. You're abrasive. My point was that if I use anything other than Mobil 1 Euro in my wife's Merc, I am using something outside what the manufacturer recommends because their recommendation is so narrow. It's up to me now to determine if the other brand is what the manufacturer intended me to use. With Toyota, they set a spec rating and let me choose the brand of oil without me going outside the manufacturer recommended fluid. There is no meaningful cost advantage to go outside the Mercedes spec so why do it when they tell me what they would like me to use. Manufacturers work with oil companies very closely. They develop additives specific for certain manufactures. Other oil companies may closely duplicate a blend but chances are it's not exactly what was tested during engine development.

In my aircraft, there was a huge difference in oil consumption between Aeroshell and Philips of the same spec. Both quality oils but the Aeroshell was proven to be a better performer in my engine. Still, guys who liked Philips because it was fine in their other plane or they liked the ad campaign, ended up switching back to Aeroshell. Everyone has their favorite oil. Use what you want.

Uh-oh. Abrasive and oil don't go together well. What you don't want to understand is that the ONLY reason Mercedes recommends Mobil is because they have been paid to recommend it. Mercedes has set a specification for their oils. That specification for US models is usually 229.x and Mobil 1 Euro meets that spec - just like ALL other oils that meet that same spec.

The only thing that this exchange has proven is that the Mobil marketing campaign has worked. And with that I'm out of this silly discussion.

 

[linuxgod]

75W85 is for mileage. Use 75W90 GL5 in all diffs and transfer case.

I'm about to hit 60k myself and with towing want to change out all the fluids. Likely will go with Amsoil in the front and rear diffs, and probably the transmission as well (not sure if the "signature" oil makes a significant difference or if I should just buy the "OE" stuff). The manual says to use Toyota LF SAE75W in the transfer case. @bjowett , is it your opinion that the Amsoil 75W90 gear oil is similar enough that it won't cause issues down the road, or do I suck it up and order the Toyota oil (since evidently nobody officially makes an equivalent)?