power window problem (1 Viewer)

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Hello everyone. I just finished replacing my drivers side door, and upon completion discovered that I now have no power to the switch, and can't operate my any of windows. The switches on the other doors won't work either. The weird thing is, is that I can't find a fuse to the power windows anywhere. My first thing I though was that I blew a fuse, or tripped a breaker somewhere. So far, I can't find anything to explain the lack of power. Probably something simple, but with winter coming, I need to get this fixed. I'd appreciate any suggestions. Thanks a lot.
 
Obvious question is "Have you checked the window lock switch/button to make sure it's not locked?"

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD
 
Past that, pull the plug off the back of the master switch and check for power. I used a test light and turned the key on and probed each pin. If your test light illuminates on any pin, then it is not a fuse problem.

Next remove door panel and find the two prong plug coming off the motor. Unplug that and use jumper wires ( a + and a -) to send 12v directly to the motor. Reversing the +/- is what determines if the motor goes up or goes down.

If you can get the window up by feeding 12v directly to it, then leave the window up and window motor unplugged until you figure out what the actual problem is 'upstream' of that.

Good luck!

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD
 
I just had the DS door switches and buttons out today. None of the other power windows will work with that DS switch out (or not functioning). IOW, your DS door wiring likely has to be functional in order for the other windows to function.
 
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I could be wrong, but I seem to remember a window relay under the driver side kick panel. May be worth checking it out.
 
So, I pulled off my center dash yesterday to re-label my CDL switch after doing the pin 7 mod (I used a old hazard switch). It has been fine, but now all my power windows do not work from any switch. I tested the fuse (#23 in the fuse panel) and my power seats still work. Could this be the relay? Or did I do something behind the dash? Any ideas?
 
So, I pulled off my center dash yesterday to re-label my CDL switch after doing the pin 7 mod (I used a old hazard switch). It has been fine, but now all my power windows do not work from any switch. I tested the fuse (#23 in the fuse panel) and my power seats still work. Could this be the relay? Or did I do something behind the dash? Any ideas?

Does the sky light work
 
So, I pulled off my center dash yesterday to re-label my CDL switch after doing the pin 7 mod (I used a old hazard switch). It has been fine, but now all my power windows do not work from any switch. I tested the fuse (#23 in the fuse panel) and my power seats still work. Could this be the relay? Or did I do something behind the dash? Any ideas?

Is the window lock button pressed?
 
I did the 7 pin mod over a year ago, but just got around to printing and re-labeling the switch yesterday. Thanks to the Mud thread, it turned out great...except now the window issue.

image.jpg
 
Craziest thing...I just started messing with buttons. Pressing the window lock/unlock button (which I had already done like 10 times), then I hit the door lock/unlock button and all of a sudden the auto light on the window switch turned on and now the windows work? Go figure.

Falls in a well eyes go crossed, gets kicked in the head by a mule, they go uncrossed 🤷‍♂️
 
Past that, pull the plug off the back of the master switch and check for power. I used a test light and turned the key on and probed each pin. If your test light illuminates on any pin, then it is not a fuse problem.

Next remove door panel and find the two prong plug coming off the motor. Unplug that and use jumper wires ( a + and a -) to send 12v directly to the motor. Reversing the +/- is what determines if the motor goes up or goes down.

If you can get the window up by feeding 12v directly to it, then leave the window up and window motor unplugged until you figure out what the actual problem is 'upstream' of that.

Good luck!

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD
Old thread, but asking for posterity. I got a power supply and pushed 12V and upto 10A (started at 7A) to try and get the motor to budge, but no luck. Feels like I might need a new motor, but curious what amperage people were using to test.
 
@cyclehacker No idea what the current draw is; the FSM only lists voltage - from the battery. I understand the desire to bench test it, but why not just connect it the battery? Or use one of the other good motors to find the current draw? You don't have to pull the door apart, just probe the back of the joining connector at the door.
 

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  • power window (ppg 108-111).pdf
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@cyclehacker No idea what the current draw is; the FSM only lists voltage - from the battery. I understand the desire to bench test it, but why not just connect it the battery? Or use one of the other good motors to find the current draw? You don't have to pull the door apart, just probe the back of the joining connector at the door.
I can definitely do that. I did already pull the door apart, unfortunately. I’ll try and understand the PDF you sent. Thanks!
 
You had to do that to get at the "bad" motor; my point was you don't have to do that to get at a good motor. The important information for you is in the System Circuit text section. No need to read the circuit diagram.
 

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