- Thread starter
- #21
Thanks for the quick response, appreciate it. Hopefully maybe this'll help someone else in the future.
Power Steering Pump Replacement
- Thread starter gixxerjasen
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
For anyone doing this in the future, the OEM high pressure hose is one of the few parts where I have been shocked by the Toyota price. I went with the Reinz, and while the bag says made in China, the assembly matched OEM, and the hose itself is labeled Japan, FWIW.
Jason
Jason
I actually reached out to Joey about the gear holder. Use the holder and the vice. The holding tool has some flat spots where the vice goes. Worked like a charm to torque.Gear is off. Once it let go it came off in a hurry. Put the gear on the new one, Wits end tool was a treat for getting the nut off, but I kept getting slippage trying to torque the nut, ended up just using wood in the vice, still, money well spent. Hopefully this is close enough, surely it's gotta be within tolerances of my caliper and whatever dust/dirt may have gotten in between.
Old pump:
New pump:
Yes, I measured with the end of the caliper not pictured.
- Thread starter
- #24
Ok, so I'm almost there. Spent a lot of time cleaning out the engine bay in the process of doing all this, then got my son to come out and help me with the bleeding process. He had fun turning the wheel while I leaned over the engine bay watching the fluid. Had my steps all laid out in front of me and then distraction set in when my son asked what I was looking for in there. So I got him up on the stool and let him watch the fluid while I turned the wheel. Then he hopped down and I started the engine. You might have noticed I missed a step there in my distraction of trying to be a good dad. I did end up teaching my son a few new words in that very moment as I scrambled for the key. So yea, fluid everywhere so fast, remember to put the damn cap back on first. I just got done cleaning up, we'll finish tomorrow as I'm defeated for the day. thanks all for the help.
- Thread starter
- #26
All bled and happy, fired it up and "Takka takka takka takka takka takka." 
All bled and happy, fired it up and "Takka takka takka takka takka takka."
opps, did ya damage the gears with removal and or assembly?....did you torque nut to 54 ft lbs ?
IF the gear is not damaged AND it was torqued to 54 ft. lbs. then it should be fairly close to the position it was before removal.
IF its off a little then the 'wear pattern' (read mesh) between the gears is off a little... but if not making a horrible noise will wear in (eventually).
If off significantly, or the gear is damaged it will make a clacking/knocking sound for a long time.
IF its off a little then the 'wear pattern' (read mesh) between the gears is off a little... but if not making a horrible noise will wear in (eventually).
If off significantly, or the gear is damaged it will make a clacking/knocking sound for a long time.
At least yours was by accident. I know a guy who took his cap off on purpose while the engine was running. Man was he a mess.
- Thread starter
- #30
Ok, so I DID drop the gear. Well, when the gear released it kinda flew off. I had already looked at people's damaged gears on here and I sat down with this that I use for my soldering
Amazon product ASIN B07T4KPYN2
And using the highest magnification I couldn't find any damage at all. I ordered up a new torque wrench. Mine is a rather old two beam style so we'll pull it apart and I'll take another close look, retorque, reassemble and try again. I'm not looking forward to this though, but let's get it done right. If the weather cooperates (not now, severe storms rolling in) I'll try to get it pulled this week for reassembly either by or over the weekend. We'll see how it goes. Thanks for the continued encouragement.
Here's hoping I don't need a $150+ gear/
Amazon product ASIN B07T4KPYN2
And using the highest magnification I couldn't find any damage at all. I ordered up a new torque wrench. Mine is a rather old two beam style so we'll pull it apart and I'll take another close look, retorque, reassemble and try again. I'm not looking forward to this though, but let's get it done right. If the weather cooperates (not now, severe storms rolling in) I'll try to get it pulled this week for reassembly either by or over the weekend. We'll see how it goes. Thanks for the continued encouragement.
Here's hoping I don't need a $150+ gear/
This is next on my to do list, how did it turn out for you @gixxerjasen ?
I'm planning to rebuild using the gates kit and the Rein HP hose... I was waiting for the Wits End cooler to come back in because my paperclip cooler is pretty nasty, but I might just move forward without it and just replace the LP hoses and clean up my cooler...
I'm planning to rebuild using the gates kit and the Rein HP hose... I was waiting for the Wits End cooler to come back in because my paperclip cooler is pretty nasty, but I might just move forward without it and just replace the LP hoses and clean up my cooler...
Unless you're absolutely needing the black cooler, you can use a silver Derale or similar cooler. I used a Racing Power Company one.
- Thread starter
- #33
This got back burner'd big time. I hopped on my motorcycle and rode to Florida to visit family I haven't seen in two Christmases including my sister's kids. Had a good time, ate amazing Cuban food, and then rode back this past weekend. Now it's going to rain all week. Hoping to dig back in next weekend. Thanks for checking up on me.
It looks like Derale now offers a black anodized unit for $85 as well:
Derale Black Anodized
They have a Jegs branded clone as well for only $50
Jegs version
Of course they do, now that I installed a silver one. Screwing up my color scheme of black and rust.
So is the Jegs version decent, or should I pay nearly double for the Derale?
That was my thought as well, but I couldn't find where Derale was made... I might have to reach out to them to see.
I used the Derale 17"
Derale = 'Murica
Racing Power Company (what I bought) = 'Murica or Taiwan
I went with a 12" cooler, just so I would have plenty of mounting room on the front of the cross member.
