Power Steering Gearbox Reseal (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter ufg8r
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
ufg8r
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #43
So in place of the spanner wrench sst I used this to tighten the adjusting cup ring for the input shaft bearing. I backed off on the preload on the cup because you can't hold it still while tightening the ring with this socket.
2 3/5 inch wheel bearing tool of some sort, can't remember why I bought it or what type of vehicle it is for.... Oh well
2 3/5 inch wheel bearing tool of some sort, can't remember why I bought it or what type of vehicle it is for.... Oh well
ufg8r
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #44
Adjusted the sector shaft preload kind of by feel b/c I don't have the sst for that either. Put a open end wrench on the flats of the input shaft. Wrench was a 15 mm to think and about 6 in. long so adjusted the preload by pulling with what I guessed was about 1 lb of force, spec is 5.2 to 8.2 in-lb so was just trying to get it in the ball park. Not the best or right way to do this I'm sure, but it seemed like the thing to try.
After putting everything back on the rig steering didn't quite have enough free play, felt more like modern rack and pinion than 1985 land cruiser so I backed of on that adjustment screw a bit until things felt a little better.
Someone asked earlier about refilling the gear box with atf. All I did was bolt everything back together and fill the reservoir on the pump. Worked the steering back and forth to get the air out and kept refilling. Seems to have worked.
I'm at 247,000 miles on the rig now, will try to remember to come back and update on how well it holds up, hopefully it's long enough to forget!
All in all, even with buying 2 seal kits, it wasn't too bad. I'm in it for about $75, could have been less without the whoops.
After putting everything back on the rig steering didn't quite have enough free play, felt more like modern rack and pinion than 1985 land cruiser so I backed of on that adjustment screw a bit until things felt a little better.
Someone asked earlier about refilling the gear box with atf. All I did was bolt everything back together and fill the reservoir on the pump. Worked the steering back and forth to get the air out and kept refilling. Seems to have worked.
I'm at 247,000 miles on the rig now, will try to remember to come back and update on how well it holds up, hopefully it's long enough to forget!
All in all, even with buying 2 seal kits, it wasn't too bad. I'm in it for about $75, could have been less without the whoops.
Thanks for a great write up. I'm just about to start mine. I guess you didn't replace the needle bearings.
Lots of tips here I hadn't thought of. J
Lots of tips here I hadn't thought of. J
ufg8r
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #46
No problem. And nope, I didn't replace any bearings. I heard they were no longer available through Toyota and, since I wasn't in a rush, figured I'd take it apart and make a determination on wether they needed replacing after getting a good look at them. Based on what I saw I figured they still had some useful life so I didn't bother searching out an aftermarket source for the bearings.
CenTXFJ60
SILVER Star
Excellent write up. I've barely looked at the FSM as a result. I'm curious if using the Toyota teflon ring on the ball screw works better running it into the housing? Or do I still need to do the freezer trick? I am installing the Toyota kit and had no issues getting the worm gear back in. I'll hit the third stage (main housing) manana. And thanks to Felicity for advising me during the planning stages. I think I spent more time starring at all the o-rings and parts than I have cleaning and installing them 
CenTXFJ60
SILVER Star
Man what a PITF-NG ass. I spoke way too soon on the last post. That nylon bushing was a nightmare. I had that thing shaped like a heart and everything else under the sun. Gonna require some time against the sector shaft to recall its original shape. Good news is it's done.Excellent write up. I've barely looked at the FSM as a result. I'm curious if using the Toyota teflon ring on the ball screw works better running it into the housing? Or do I still need to do the freezer trick? I am installing the Toyota kit and had no issues getting the worm gear back in. I'll hit the third stage (main housing) manana. And thanks to Felicity for advising me during the planning stages. I think I spent more time starring at all the o-rings and parts than I have cleaning and installing them
Yeah, I use socket with a several wraps of electrical tape to create a lip, similar to the SST they showin the power steering FSM, to keep the teflon and rubber seal from pushing back, then I press it in.
Last edited:
CenTXFJ60
SILVER Star
Man I need to get that FSM. The one I have (actually 2 copies) did not have the page you just posted. And nice job making your own tool. If I get an idea of what it looks like I usually do the same thing.
@NeverGiveUpYota, Do you remember the part number for the OEM control valve sealing rings?
Was it 9030132002 ?
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
This is the diagram the parts guy at that time emailed to me.
Sorry, just crossed to this site...
TOYOTA LAND CRUISER 60FJ60LG-KA - POWERTRAIN-CHASSIS - FRONT STEERING GEAR LINK | Japan Parts EU and the number they show pulls up the wrong part in TPD.
So let me look through my receipts, far easier that way. Found it, PN 90562-48001
Last edited:
So can I reseal without taking the ball bearings out?I'm not understanding how you got the worm shaft out without losing the ball bearings are if that is a possibility
I sent mine off to West Texas as well and it leaked 2 months later. Then Georg put a band aid on it for me but it's leaking again. Ugh... Now I just need to do it myself.
Great write up. Thank you!
This is a great thread!
I heard one person mention warming up seals, or such.
One trick to warming seals is to put them into a zip lock type bag with some steering fluid, seal it up and put it into some hot water, not boiling water. But hot from a tap.
In aviation when I am fitting things that are a press fit I also warm them up. I use a heat gun and warm them to the point you would not want to hold them in your bare hand, but not to the point it smokes. The other side can be put into a freezer for a few hours or you can use some super cold (spray can). Sometimes the expansion/contraction makes things just flop together easily.
I heard one person mention warming up seals, or such.
One trick to warming seals is to put them into a zip lock type bag with some steering fluid, seal it up and put it into some hot water, not boiling water. But hot from a tap.
In aviation when I am fitting things that are a press fit I also warm them up. I use a heat gun and warm them to the point you would not want to hold them in your bare hand, but not to the point it smokes. The other side can be put into a freezer for a few hours or you can use some super cold (spray can). Sometimes the expansion/contraction makes things just flop together easily.
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
West Texas doesn’t warranty their work? That would seem unheard of....
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
@Swampcruiser45 apologies coming off like a bitch (I am a chick) but really if your this confused.... at minimum watch the bleepin jeep gear box rebuild YouTube video then if your still confused, have someone else do it.
No problem. It has become more understandable the more I do with it. I was just trying to keep from taking the ball bearings out and if that was necessary. The input shaft seal had me confused. I bought a spanner wrench to take it apart, but then realized the seal just presses out. The seal isn't seating all he way. I'm going to try cooling or heating
