Power Steering Gear Box Rebuild - 1987 FJ60 (2 Viewers)

[bergerob]

Tap Size

Upon closer inspection, it looks like the threads in the box (the first few) are rough.

I have been told the tap size for this is M17 X 1.50. Which are hard to find.

 

[NocalFJ60]

I will look tonight at what size I have and check it on my spare box on the return side. If it is right, I will let you know and can send it to you.

 

[NocalFJ60]

The tap size I have is M16 x 1.5. I tried it on the return side and it threads into my spare box. It hits the brass piece quickly. You will have to pull the brass piece to clean up the threads correctly. You just can't get down far enough with the brass piece in it.

PM me and I can send you the tap if you need it.

 

[NocalFJ60]

Just found the thread I was thinking of and post # 8 by Mace confirms the size.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/187318-fj60-ps-fittings.html

 

[bergerob]

Brass Fitting

Thanks.
I pulled the brass piece on the return line. I will be retapping the thread soon.

Should I replace the brass fittings? On both?
Is this an CDan thing or are they pretty standard?

 

[NocalFJ60]

Should I replace the brass fittings? On both?
Is this an CDan thing or are they pretty standard?

It is cheap insurance. I ordered 4 from Cdan with an order.

OEM Part # 90410-06030 3.69/each

 

[bergerob]

M17 x 1.50

Sorry, I dont have my camera tonite.

I went out and bought an entire Metric Tap Set and ordered an M17 X 1.50 Tap from Enco.

The M16 X 1.50 was too small in the Return line. So I tried (very carefully the M17). Success.

As a note, I got a tip from a friend. Place a piece of paper with a dab of moly in the port to catch any of the metal flakes that came off during tapping. I then followed up with a strong magnet to get the chips and to keep it as clean as possible. This being the return line, I will flush the system before I fully install.

I checked (by hand) the fitting and it slid on perfectly.

I bought the bronze fittings from CDan and should have them soon.

Getting closer.

 

[slcfj62]

As a note, I got a tip from a friend. Place a piece of paper with a dab of moly in the port to catch any of the metal flakes that came off during tapping. I then followed up with a strong magnet to get the chips and to keep it as clean as possible. This being the return line, I will flush the system before I fully install.

You could also have turned it upside down so the metal filings fall out instead of in--unless you already torqued everything down, and then it's that bad dream all over again!

 

[bergerob]

Connected up

I got the fittings (Thanks NocalFJ60). Connevted everything up & checked for leaks.

No problem.

I was flushing out the system with ATF Dexron Fluid. Connected up the return line & still have bubbles.

How bad is that?

What do you recommend? Keep flushing?

 

[NocalFJ60]

Glad you got the parts.

It took awhile to get all the air out of a dry box.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/191522-problem-bleeding-power-steering-system.html

 

[vipergrhd]

mine's next

I nedd to get my gear box sent out as well,it started to leak after replacing and rebuilding the p/s pump and hoses.I'm not sure if it was mentioned but how long was the down time for the gear box and any warranty?

John

 

[bergerob]

Reattached & Cheap Insurance

I was able to get the whole thing back together last night. Still screwing around with purging the fluid.

Here are a couple pics of the SGB reassembled & the old/new fittings.

The SGB rebuild was $140 + shipping. I am in TX so it was not too bad. It took ~ 1 week. I did not ask specifically to have them "clean the threads of the pressure & return lines, nor did I ask them to replace the fittings. So add ~ $20 for a tap & ~ $8 for the fittings from CDan. I am not sure on the warranty.

 

[vipergrhd]

Thanks for the info and i'll make sure to include the brass fitting and retread in the rebuild.

John

 

[bergerob]

Clarifying question

I have a little play/slop in my steering.

I have read a bunch of threads.

Can someone clarify what this means from this thread?

Item: Drag Links
Repair: Adjusted them to Factory specs and to a "spec" on the web.
Difficulty: Really easy.
Effect:Factory spec is 1.5 turns back off of tight. I read a tech report on the web that suggested 0.5 turns was the right amount. I did this in stages. Went to .75 turns first. Nice improvement. Steering was more centered, less play/slop. Felt less like an old truck. Then went to 0.5 turns. Didn't really notice a difference. Strongly suggest doing this mod. Once all the worn parts are fixed, this one is free and easy, and makes a difference.

Does this refer to the picture below?

I thread my new TRE into the relay rod to the approximate location of the old TRE.

PS I have an OME Heavy lift kit.

 

[NocalFJ60]

The drag link attaches to the pitman arm on the steering box. You can pull out the metal clip and use a big flat head screwdriver to tighten the drag link. You want to turn the big flat adjustment like you are sticking your screwdriver into the end of the drag link and down the relay rod.

 

[bergerob]

Pressure Line blow out

Quick update.

While driving, my power steering totally gave out. I heard really loud moaning, and smelt the Dexron fluid.

I was only a few miles from home, drove home and checked it out.

The Pressure line completely blew out and leaked at the gear box. I pulled the line off and saw that the brass fitting was chewed up. (I have pics and will upload tonite).

Long story short, I bought a new OEM pressure line from Cdan, bought a Carquest inline tranny/PS filter. PN 85953, and refilled the pump.

I bled the system per the threads above.

I am happy to say that there are no more leaks and the steering is tight.

QUESTION:
One thing that I noticed was that once in a while, when driving slow (like pulling into a parking spot), turning the wheel, the steering is choppy or bumping. Almost like the power steering is intermittent

What causes that?

 

[Mace]

QUESTION:
One thing that I noticed was that once in a while, when driving slow (like pulling into a parking spot), turning the wheel, the steering is choppy or bumping. Almost like the power steering is intermittent

What causes that?

Air in the system still or a slipping belt

 

[bergerob]

I had a friend watch the pump / pulley / belt for any slippage while I was turning the wheel. No noticeable slip.

Also, looking inside the power steering resevoir, I dont see any bubbles(or foam).

It seems to jump/chatter less if the engine is at a higher RPM.

 

[alaska60]

Higher rpms will make the fluid move faster through the system.
More fluid moving will deplete your pulsing steering.
You still have air in the system. This air can take some time and movement to remove.

 

[bergerob]

Looks like I through the truck back up on stands and go lock to lock tonite.

Is there any visual to let me know I am done? I was hoping that the lack of bubbles or foam is the signal. Or is the true test the chatter in the steering.