Hornd
SILVER Star
They Good People.
I used them for prolly ~100 tests of Hydraulic Oil after I recommended them to my Company.
Hard to get in depth Diagnostics at this Level of the Internals for $40.
Ends the Guessing.
Post Your Blackstone Report
- Thread starter BILT4ME
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I used them for prolly ~100 tests of Hydraulic Oil after I recommended them to my Company.
Hard to get in depth Diagnostics at this Level of the Internals for $40.
Ends the Guessing.
- Thread starter
- #142
I have used them for oil analysis on some positive displacement blowers for a cement plant.
It documented the fact that the oil was NOT contaminated and was in great shape. The samples were taken and sent off, then two days later a shaft broke on one of the blowers and they were going to try to blame the oil and since I had the tests to prove otherwise, they had to eat it. Best $400 I've ever spent.
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
Love it when a process works in your favour!
I add a quart between changes. Not too shabby for 228k and original head gasket.
A bunch of mine (engine, trans, front diff and catch can)
I would typically keep my engine oil change intervals between 3000 and 5000 miles (depending on whether or not I was in the middle of a long road trip from FL to NY), but I pushed my sample intervals much further as per their suggestions.
After my previous sample @ 403,706 miles, I replaced the worn valve seals and leaky crank seal
Since then I've had zero consumption
I would typically keep my engine oil change intervals between 3000 and 5000 miles (depending on whether or not I was in the middle of a long road trip from FL to NY), but I pushed my sample intervals much further as per their suggestions.
After my previous sample @ 403,706 miles, I replaced the worn valve seals and leaky crank seal
Since then I've had zero consumption
This report makes me happy. I still have low compression in #5, but at least she's not coming apart.... yet.
My first report! Open to any assessments outside what the lab commented on.
As the note suggests, this is after a rebuild. New bearings, rings, etc. No cylinder work, looked good enough to leave as is. Rebuilt head. And I added a the turbo. This was technically the second oil change on the new build, the first was just a 500 mile change to get any junk out. Hoping everything starts to clear up... have to admit I am a little nervous. Changed oil to my normal Mobil 1 turbo diesel 5W-40 for the next report.
As the note suggests, this is after a rebuild. New bearings, rings, etc. No cylinder work, looked good enough to leave as is. Rebuilt head. And I added a the turbo. This was technically the second oil change on the new build, the first was just a 500 mile change to get any junk out. Hoping everything starts to clear up... have to admit I am a little nervous. Changed oil to my normal Mobil 1 turbo diesel 5W-40 for the next report.
- Thread starter
- #148
Seeing a bit of fuel in the oil tells me it has not been operated long enough to heat it up well and burn that out. Lots of slow, cool driving.
As you put more miles on it, these levels should drop.
Some of these levels being lower than average could also be the oil you ran (O'Reilly's). Molybdenum, calcium, magnesium, phosphorus.
Why are you planning on running a high detergent diesel oil?
I thought the fuel was relatively low. I haven't exactly been babying it, lots of highway driving and normal temps. The Mobil 1 5w-40 is just what I always ran, based off recommendations here on Mud. The oil thread had a lot of people recommending it, more for the oil itself, not necessarily the detergents, if I recall correctly.
- Thread starter
- #150
Fuel should be zero if you're driving it distances so it burns it out.
Mobil 1 is synthetic, not necessarily diesel oil. I misunderstood. I was thinking the Rotella.
Fair enough. I'm looking forward to seeing the next report to see progress. Thanks for the feedback.
ppc
M Go Blue
The fuel percentage is less than 0.5 where the average target is less than 2.0.
How much less? Might be a limits of the testing process.
Looking at a few other posted tests they all had the 0.5 and 2.0 figures.
In conclusion there is nothing wrong with the fuel value.
How much less? Might be a limits of the testing process.
Looking at a few other posted tests they all had the 0.5 and 2.0 figures.
In conclusion there is nothing wrong with the fuel value.
cartercd
SILVER Star
I might attempt the 3-year oil change interval next time as I only drive 2,500 miles per year. I can hear the collective groans of people who think this is blasphemy!
Steve D
SILVER Star
Here's my latest report. I plan to send a sample with each oil change for a while to see if the aluminum numbers come down. I'm not sure what may have caused that issue, but I have been using the truck a lot more - and probably pushing it pretty hard on the highway.
Hornd
SILVER Star
Hornd
SILVER Star
I'm same...Since we added the GX (highway Friendly) I only use the Cruiser Occasionally, but It is not Neglected.
Steve D
SILVER Star
I am not sure the cause or source of the aluminum (Blackstone says pistons) but I plan to shorten the oil change interval and also change my air filter to make sure I'm not sucking in any abrasives.
- Thread starter
- #158
Did you recently change brand, viscosity ,or type of oil?
Steve D
SILVER Star
I have consistently used Mobil 1 5/40 when I change the oil, but sometimes I buy the high mileage one, sometimes not. A couple oil changes ago I used Valvoline at a quicky lube near Glacier National Park in the middle of a giant road trip. I can't imagine changing brands would make that much of a difference, but that may be? One thing I need to verify is the 6,000 miles on that oil. I am 92% sure that's correct but the interval may have been longer.
- Thread starter
- #160
I ask because the molybdenum, calcium, and magnesium have drastically different levels from previous samples. You didn't add any oil between, so that didn't change things.
The only place aluminum of that level can come from is the pistons. Have you been running hard, high RPM? If so, you may be getting some skirt slap. It's important that you keep your change intervals so the viscosity doesn't drop off. If you had been doing a lot of in town driving, then got on the open road before an oil change, the viscosity may be low to start, causing the issue. Then as the fuel burns out of the oil, the viscosity recovers a bit for the rest of the drive.
Definitely watch it and maybe shorten the interval on the oil changes.
The Valvoline will definitely have different additives than the Mobil 1.
