Post Your Blackstone Report
- Thread starter BILT4ME
- Start date
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I have never done a Blackstone report but decided to do one on this last change.
I was feeling pretty guilty, I live just far enough out of town that its to long to walk to town where I work everyday, but not really far enough away to warm up the engine all the way. I typically ride my bike, but I broke my wrist a few months ago which has taken that out of the equation until recently. And of course, in Aspen it is pretty damn cold in the winter and the truck sits outside. Lots and lots of cold starts
Luckily the Blackstone came back seemigly well. I have run Mobil 1 5w-40 TD since I bought it with 190,000. Supercharged since 260,000l.
Also worth noting the comment on the low insolubles due to good filtration. I have been using the Ford 90 degree adapter and Ford Fl-500s since 290,000. So its nice to see that is all working okay.
I was feeling pretty guilty, I live just far enough out of town that its to long to walk to town where I work everyday, but not really far enough away to warm up the engine all the way. I typically ride my bike, but I broke my wrist a few months ago which has taken that out of the equation until recently. And of course, in Aspen it is pretty damn cold in the winter and the truck sits outside. Lots and lots of cold starts
Luckily the Blackstone came back seemigly well. I have run Mobil 1 5w-40 TD since I bought it with 190,000. Supercharged since 260,000l.
Also worth noting the comment on the low insolubles due to good filtration. I have been using the Ford 90 degree adapter and Ford Fl-500s since 290,000. So its nice to see that is all working okay.
Just got this back today, I had sweet smelling exhaust and I did the gas test in the radiator, turned color immediatly.I am going to pull the head and do the headgasket,along with fixing oil leaks on the front of the engine. Still debating whether to pull the engine.
Comments?
Comments?
- Thread starter
- #124
I would pressure test the cooling system first to determine the leak and into which cylinder.
Pull spark plugs to confirm.
Thanks for your reply, I went ahead and drained the coolant already.
So pressure test would be used to confirm the head gasket failure, in addition to the gas test I did in the radiator?
Or the gas test could indicate a leak somewhere else in the system and not necessarily the headgasket?
Thanks again
So pressure test would be used to confirm the head gasket failure, in addition to the gas test I did in the radiator?
Or the gas test could indicate a leak somewhere else in the system and not necessarily the headgasket?
Thanks again
First blackstone report on my 3FE. Not the glowing analysis I was hoping for… Found the p/o had installed the thermostat without the top gasket, so coolant was cycling through constantly and running on constant cold start I assume? It lead to very high idle and crazy mpg loss. I’m rebuilding the front end with new brakes, axles, bearings and waiting on some adjustable upper links in the rear to make this driveable enough to test again (the rear pinion angle is causing vibration) so we’ll see if my fiddling’ around with small fixes can get this back to a decent runner.
just received this for my 97 lx450 with 183k miles. Just bought the vehicle and am doing a base check on everything. The PO said they had the oil changed every 10k miles but I don’t even know if that’s right, he inherited it from his grandmother and had only had it for a short period of time. Wondering if the high iron and copper are because the oil been run for too long… open to analysis!
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- Thread starter
- #128
Go back to the first part of this thread and see how to post this report without all your personal information on it.
The narrative tells the story. Barely enough to flag the copper. See how it trends from here. Check back in 4k miles
- Thread starter
- #130
From an analysis standpoint, that oil was run way too long.
You may have a similar situation to me and the interior of the engine has lots of crud but up due to sitting, cold, short runs, and not enough oil changes to eliminate the debris.
Seeing a bit of fuel in it tells me it's had cold short runs or idles a lot. No long trips to burn out the solubles and get rid of the moisture.
I've settled on changing mine about 6K, butine is a DD with 14 miles one way and lots of one hour trips or more.
If lots of runs at 5 miles or less, shorten the oil changes to 3000.
I run a Blackstone test every other oil change on mine unless I see something concerning.
The ship may have sailed already...
Oil changes are cheaper than new engines - regarding oil, when in doubt, change it out.
I go w/severe schedule even though I baby my vehicles. If nothing else, it gets me to look underneath to check things out.
My 2 pennies
Hi all - Could I get some feedback on this report please? I had an intermittent sound during winter, my shop couldn't pinpoint it but noticed some metal in the filter on an oil change. Recommended doing another one and sending for a report. So I changed the oil and here's the analysis. Let me know if more history is helpful, the quick version is that the head gasket job was done by the prior owner thru Toyota back in 2016-ish.
"my shop---noticed some metal in the filter"
What exactly did the shop tell/show you? Normally a filter is just tossed in the bin and not taken apart, or did the shop take the filter apart? And if they did take it apart, how did they do that, cut it with a angle grinder??
Either way, the oil only has 1500 miles on it but looks OK, just be sure to always use either a Toyota oil filter (safest choice) or a top shelf aftermarket filter ( like Mobil 1). Current forum experience says to NEVER use a WIX oil filter (some NAPA filters at least in the past were made by WIX).
IME the 1FZFE shows lower wear metals (less engine wear) when using a higher viscosity oil than 5W-30. FWIW the recommended oil viscosity for the same temp ranges in some other countries is higher than the recommended viscosity for US vehicles using the same engine. Or to put it another way, higher oil viscosity in this engine won't hurt it unless maybe you live/drive in a very cold environment.
FWIW recently switched from Mobil 1 10W-40 to Chevron Delo XSP Full Synthetic 15W-40 in my 97 FZJ80 and the oil usage (no leaks) over the last 5000 miles dropped almost in half. Blackstone report pending.
What exactly did the shop tell/show you? Normally a filter is just tossed in the bin and not taken apart, or did the shop take the filter apart? And if they did take it apart, how did they do that, cut it with a angle grinder??
Either way, the oil only has 1500 miles on it but looks OK, just be sure to always use either a Toyota oil filter (safest choice) or a top shelf aftermarket filter ( like Mobil 1). Current forum experience says to NEVER use a WIX oil filter (some NAPA filters at least in the past were made by WIX).
IME the 1FZFE shows lower wear metals (less engine wear) when using a higher viscosity oil than 5W-30. FWIW the recommended oil viscosity for the same temp ranges in some other countries is higher than the recommended viscosity for US vehicles using the same engine. Or to put it another way, higher oil viscosity in this engine won't hurt it unless maybe you live/drive in a very cold environment.
FWIW recently switched from Mobil 1 10W-40 to Chevron Delo XSP Full Synthetic 15W-40 in my 97 FZJ80 and the oil usage (no leaks) over the last 5000 miles dropped almost in half. Blackstone report pending.
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I saw a picture of a filter taken apart and with an easily visible speck of metal. I'm not sure how they took it apart but trust them as they were trying to chase down the sound (that since disappeared). I purposely only did 1,500 miles before changing the oil myself and used a Toyota filter (same as the shop).
Interesting, I didn't know the recommended viscosity is higher in other countries. I don't have any leaks currently (knock on wood) but the incident in January and then Blackstone calling out the increase in Lead explicitly in their comments gave me some worry.
So what I'm understanding from you is that perhaps going with 10W-40 may reduce that wear? Hope you have a positive report coming.
@chbrow10 sorry but I couldn't view your comment if you left one.
Well you'll get a dozen opinions on which oil viscosity to use, but based on the Blackstone results I saw in a 96 FZJ80 with over 200,000 miles, that when I switched from 5W-30 to 10W-40 Mobil 1 the lead level in that engine's serial Blackstone reports went down. No way to say for sure that the decrease was due to the higher viscosity as other factors may have been the cause of the increased lead level.
Since then I increased the viscosity of the oil I used in that engine a bit more to keep it healthy and it's still running very well at over 300,000 miles.
I mentioned the Chevron Delo XSP Full Synthetic 15W-40 because it is approved for both diesels and Gasoline/Petrol engines. I was surprised how much less oil consumption (likely from original valve stem seals) I saw in my 97 FZJ80 which had been running Mobil 1 10W-40. So which viscosity you use depends some on your local weather; it rarely goes below freezing in my region so I felt comfortable going up to the 15W-40 viscosity, many others on the forum have used other 15W-40 (Rotella) engine oil without issues.
It was discussed on the forum years ago that the 5W-30 oil recommendation for US spec FZJ80's may have been due to US fuel economy regulations
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From the FAQ section:
Australia Owner's Manual recommends the following oil viscosity, based solely on the performance requirements of the (1FZFE) engine, unrestricted by US CAFE fuel economy regulations:
Temperature (weather temp)
19 to 100F: 20W-50
14 to 100F: 15W-40
0 to 100F: 10W-30
-22 to 46F: 5W-30
Since then I increased the viscosity of the oil I used in that engine a bit more to keep it healthy and it's still running very well at over 300,000 miles.
I mentioned the Chevron Delo XSP Full Synthetic 15W-40 because it is approved for both diesels and Gasoline/Petrol engines. I was surprised how much less oil consumption (likely from original valve stem seals) I saw in my 97 FZJ80 which had been running Mobil 1 10W-40. So which viscosity you use depends some on your local weather; it rarely goes below freezing in my region so I felt comfortable going up to the 15W-40 viscosity, many others on the forum have used other 15W-40 (Rotella) engine oil without issues.
It was discussed on the forum years ago that the 5W-30 oil recommendation for US spec FZJ80's may have been due to US fuel economy regulations
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From the FAQ section:
Australia Owner's Manual recommends the following oil viscosity, based solely on the performance requirements of the (1FZFE) engine, unrestricted by US CAFE fuel economy regulations:
Temperature (weather temp)
19 to 100F: 20W-50
14 to 100F: 15W-40
0 to 100F: 10W-30
-22 to 46F: 5W-30
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- Thread starter
- #137
My latest Blackstone Report.
Looks like the old truck is wearing well.
I now have 364K miles on it.
Looks like the old truck is wearing well.
I now have 364K miles on it.
FWIW this is why I felt good about running 5W40 in my 1FZ. I don't think it was available when their global chart came out. In my mind, it bridges a useful gap - you have some extra benefit with cold flow, while retaining the more robust 40 weight at operating temp. Depending where you live in the PNW, could be a good option.
Man, I hope my next one is like that. Should know in a few weeks.
Interesting I hadn't heard that about the washable filter either. And come to think of it, I didn't clean it out on my last oil change. Will try cleaning it before my next sample, maybe that's why my lead level was slightly elevated...
Thanks, that makes a lot of sense.
