Possible 1968 fj40 project..... (2 Viewers)

[BAMF_CT2004]

Im from a mini truck background, so when it comes to early model cruisers, I am a total noob. Anyways Im considering purchasing a 68 fj40 is from the midwest and has sat in the midwest for atleast 10 years. It has rust in the floor boards and rockers. Frame looks solid with just surface rust. Vehicle is virgin and has been untouched in regards to upgrades. Appears to be completely original. Asking price is $500

From what I could find, the early land cruisers appear to be the least desirable with course spline axles and 4wheel drum brakes. Im interested in restoring it to the point of just fixing the visible rust holes and to get it road worthy. However I have absolutely no body work experience.

fj40 pictures - Photobucket

From the pictures above how difficult could it be to get the body back into decent shape to be road/trail worthy? From a 10min run through in the dark last night with a mag light, mechanically the gas,brake,clutch petals are all non functional, the 3speed lever on the column doesnt appear to move and the right rear drum is seized. Radiator "LOOKS" dry but it still has oil in it that is black with no funky discoloration. I will be going back with a battery and some fresh gas to throw down the carb to see if it will turn over and if I get anything out of it.

From people who have gone through restorations, what would you think it would cost (roughly not expecting exact) to get the body back to road/trail worthyness for all 4 seasons.

Also, what I can seem to find is did the 68s come with 3.70 or 4.10 gearing? Not that it matters, but Im just curious.

 

[JohnnyC]

it's far from completely original

for $500 it's not bad...but...there is ALOT of body work that needs to be done...are you good at welding?

 

[cjgoode]

I would hop on that project for $500, price it a fair price, and if you do the body work your self and weld in some metal you cut its cheap to fix.

 

[BAMF_CT2004]

it's far from completely original

for $500 it's not bad...but...there is ALOT of body work that needs to be done...are you good at welding?

at this point in time, no. Welding experience is very limited. I have a buddy who is pretty good with welding, so when I need something welded, I would just bring it to him. I want to start welding but not sure if the project woudl be appropriate for a begnner. I realize everyone has to start somewhere.

I have found the replacement panels which would so far be about $700 in replacement panels and increasing. I realize the proper way would be to strip everything down to the bare metal and start from there but Im not that picky about body perfection. My plan is to just fix the holes and rattle can it.

 

[duffontap]

JohnnyC is right--it's not all original.

If it were me, I would not try to get it started before buying it. You are in a better position to negotiate a lower price if it's not running and you'll want to follow procedure when you try to start that old engine (doing it right could take days).

There is hardly a FJ40 out there that doesn't have $500 worth of parts on it. If you buy it and feel like you're in over your head, you can easily recover your investment parting it out or reselling it.

 

[BAMF_CT2004]

JohnnyC is right--it's not all original.

If it were me, I would not try to get it started before buying it. You are in a better position to negotiate a lower price if it's not running and you'll want to follow procedure when you try to start that old engine (doing it right could take days).

There is hardly a FJ40 out there that doesn't have $500 worth of parts on it. If you buy it and feel like you're in over your head, you can easily recover your investment parting it out or reselling it.

What doesnt appear to be original? I appologize for my noob ignornace in thinking that it was. I also appreciate the feedback.

 

[JohnnyC]

seats, seat brackets, i assume no rear side seats, tail lights, paint, reciever thingie, missing plate light...form what i can see so far at a quick glance

engine pics?

$500 is not a bad price for what its got

 

[Slowerthanu]

Those look like original high back buckets from a 1969 Camaro.

Buy it, $500.00 with a clean frame means the sky is the limit.

Also, learn to weld, it will make life with these vehicles a lot easier.

 

[BAMF_CT2004]

seats, seat brackets, i assume no rear side seats, tail lights, paint, reciever thingie, missing plate light...form what i can see so far at a quick glance

engine pics?

$500 is not a bad price for what its got

JohnnyC is right--it's not all original.

If it were me, I would not try to get it started before buying it. You are in a better position to negotiate a lower price if it's not running and you'll want to follow procedure when you try to start that old engine (doing it right could take days).

There is hardly a FJ40 out there that doesn't have $500 worth of parts on it. If you buy it and feel like you're in over your head, you can easily recover your investment parting it out or reselling it.

Those look like original high back buckets from a 1969 Camaro.

Buy it, $500.00 with a clean frame means the sky is the limit.

Also, learn to weld, it will make life with these vehicles a lot easier.

Damn, you guys are really good. This stuff was in plain site and I couldnt tell it was altered. Thanks for the all the info. Going back later during the day to get a better look at it and bringing a breaker bar and some sockets to see if the engine will turn over by hand.

 

[fj user]

I learned to weld on mine. Conventional wisdom says to buy the best project you can afford. I don't know what that is for you. Keep in mind that this will be a very time consuming project. But, if you have the time for it, you won't do better for the money IMHO

 

[My wife said no FJ!]

Replying here from your other thread;

did not try to turn it over last night. I thought I would give it a shot tonight. I wasnt going to run it. Just interested in seeing if it would turn over and could possibly run. Why dont you recommend trying to start it?

Two main reasons...for that price, you might simply change the engine, so it would be a wasted effort...

BUT

if you do want to save that engine if it works, you might scar it, or bend and break something...so not worth it again.

My engine had not run in about then years either, and it was stuck...would not turn by hand at all. I pulled the plugs, and poured a good shot glass of Marvel Mystery Oil down each cylinder, and let it sit a week. A week later, I poured in some more, and pour some in down the oil fill right into the engine. About a week or so later, I pulled the plugs again, got myself a big freaken pry bar, and gently tried to turn it...it was still stuck, so thinking I had nothing to lose, I gave it a good solid effort, and the engine "unstuck". I continued to turn it a little, and pour more MMO in. Then I turned it over by hand for a good hour without the plugs in. Clean the plugs and put them back in, cleaned and adjusted the points, poured some fresh gas down the carb, and she fired right up!! All that MMO smoked like crazy, but she ran on the 10 year old gas still in the tank. She is easy to start now, good oil pressure, fresh gas in the tank, runs nice, but I am chasing down a possible vacuum leak as she does not like low idle too much yet. I'll be changing the engine in my '64 eventually as this engine is not the correct year for my rig, so I had nothing to lose...that said, had I just put the battery to her, I was sure she would have ended up as scr*p metal...just my 0.02

 

[BAMF_CT2004]

Replying here from your other thread;



Two main reasons...for that price, you might simply change the engine, so it would be a wasted effort...

BUT

if you do want to save that engine if it works, you might scar it, or bend and break something...so not worth it again.

My engine had not run in about then years either, and it was stuck...would not turn by hand at all. I pulled the plugs, and poured a good shot glass of Marvel Mystery Oil down each cylinder, and let it sit a week. A week later, I poured in some more, and pour some in down the oil fill right into the engine. About a week or so later, I pulled the plugs again, got myself a big freaken pry bar, and gently tried to turn it...it was still stuck, so thinking I had nothing to lose, I gave it a good solid effort, and the engine "unstuck". I continued to turn it a little, and pour more MMO in. Then I turned it over by hand for a good hour without the plugs in. Clean the plugs and put them back in, cleaned and adjusted the points, poured some fresh gas down the carb, and she fired right up!! All that MMO smoked like crazy, but she ran on the 10 year old gas still in the tank. She is easy to start now, good oil pressure, fresh gas in the tank, runs nice, but I am chasing down a possible vacuum leak as she does not like low idle too much yet. I'll be changing the engine in my '64 eventually as this engine is not the correct year for my rig, so I had nothing to lose...that said, had I just put the battery to her, I was sure she would have ended up as scr*p metal...just my 0.02

thanks for posting the heads up. After you posted that you wouldnt recommend trying to start it, I went and did some searching and found some pretty good reasons.

With the reputation of these motors being so durable, I didnt think it would harm anything. On a domestic motor I definately would have thought twice

 

[My wife said no FJ!]

Like I mentioned in your other thread, if the frame and title are good, and you want a 40 and have a place to keep it, you already have people offering parts, so you have nothing to lose.

 

[cjgoode]

Learn to weld and do it yourself. This is a perfect rig to learn on. Well learn on some scrap metal first, then on this. Its going to need a lot of patching, your last patch will look a lot better then your first and you will feel good about it no matter what it looks like.

 

[JohnnyC]

Learn to weld and do it yourself. This is a perfect rig to learn on. Well learn on some scrap metal first, then on this. Its going to need ALOT of patching, your last patch will look a lot better then your first and you will feel good about it no matter what it looks like.

fixed it for ya

x2 on the comments

 

[BAMF_CT2004]

You guys called it before I even got a good look at it. Would need alot of effort that is way beyond my comfort level for a project. Attempted to turn the motor but it was not happening. At that point I decided to pass. Thanks again for all the info.

 

[JohnnyC]

others will come up

they always do

 

[My wife said no FJ!]

...yet you still attempted to turn the motor

this will make a great project for someone who is serious...like Johnny said, someone will come along and know what to do to get this 40 going again

 

[BAMF_CT2004]

...yet you still attempted to turn the motor

this will make a great project for someone who is serious...like Johnny said, someone will come along and know what to do to get this 40 going again

sorry. I should have specified by hand. I didnt bring a battery to hook up to it. The crank nut on the front of the F looked like it was slotted/groved through the middle. We got the crank that is used for the bottle jack and to lower the spare tire from my thrid gen 4runner to see if you could turn it that way because it didnt feel like it was a nut and that a socket wasnt going to work. The hook of the jack crank seemed fit really good into the grove of the crankshaft but it just wouldnt turn.

We couldnt get a good look at it but what does the front of that 1f crankshaft look like and what is needed to turn it by hand?

 

[JohnnyC]

We couldnt get a good look at it but what does the front of that 1f crankshaft look like and what is needed to turn it by hand?

you need the oem hand crank..it works great for doing valve adjustments...here is IDave's video: