Positive cable going from the battery to the starter is melting. 1973 FJ40.

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Location
Plano, TX
1973 - FJ40
Battery cable POSITIVE is melting where it connects to the starter.. other Cables look good.
I am certain the starter is the original one. I'll try and down load some pictures. It's been a while since my last post.
one owner - Dallas area . Tom
 
What gauge are your main power and ground cables? Replace the melted cable obviously, make sure you use a QUALITY 4awg cable.
Before you hook anything back up I would get your battery tested.
 
I have seen worn starter's sort of ground out internally and pull way more amps than normal. Corrosion in the connectors under the insulation adds resistance which means heat - look where its melted.

I'll be re doing mine with 2/0 wire. I like a cast on battery terminal lots more than than those pinch clamp emergency repair units.
 
Are you able to start the engine on the first attempt? Cranking for too long and too many times in a row can cause that same sort of damage. Especially with too small of a gauge cable.

I had a similar issue when I moved to CO from CA and still had oil appropriate to SoCal despite trying to start in Colorado winter. In my case the melted insulation was a symptom but not the root problem.
 
I would recommend a heavier gauge. You need to clean your connections and probably replace the ground cable too. As Charlie mentioned, corrosion can occur underneath the insulation. You can cut back the insulation on the wire in question and probably find corrosion.
 
Thank you all. both battery cables are 6-guage and apear to be in goog shape Pos Wire is melting where it connects to the starter. The ground cable seems oto be origional.will remove clean, ..

maybe the crimp end is getting corrosion in it causing heating issues?
 
So 2/0 Red 24" and 2/0 Black 16" with terminals is like $50 delivered. I just need to see what size hole my ring terminals require.

Big Fan of NAPA battery terminal sprays both the cleaner and protector. Plus I use those treatment washers on the posts too.
 
maybe the crimp end is getting corrosion in it causing heating issues?

I agree. I did HVAC for thirty five years. Over heating in a single location on a wire the problem is a bad connect in that area. Over amp draw would expect heating the entire length of the wire from the battery to the starter.
 
Just got my 2/0 cables today $45.32 delivered
BatteryCablesUSA
From:sales@batterycablesusa.com

new 00  battery cables 1.jpg


new 00 battery cables 2.jpg
 
I had my wires done up by Mud member @Fourrunner years ago. I used the military clamps. Works great. Not sure if he still does 40 series.

Side note: Coolerman recommended I run an additional ground from the battery negative to the alternator bracket. From the factory this grounds to the engine block. But the alternator bracket to engine block area can get a little “crunchy” over the years. If everything is grounding properly it essentially becomes a backup starter to frame ground (or vice versa).
 
I do still make 40 cable sets.

Here is a link to the cable sets.

 
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How many bolts are removed when taking off the starter? I removed the two long bolts that are on the front of the starter am i missing one? back side? I have a new battery and all new 4ga wire.. one owner. Certain it is the origional
 
How many bolts are removed when taking off the starter? I removed the two long bolts that are on the front of the starter am i missing one? back side? I have a new battery and all new 4ga wire.. one owner. Certain it is the origional
The two on the "front" of the starter are to take apart the starter, put those back in and start at the "back" as Charlie indicates.
 
1958-6/82
Nut/ lock washer #26, 27 on top; the stud is so you can hang the starter without holding it up so you can start the nut.
Bolt/lock washer #29, 27 bottom
Then there is the nut for the battery + cable, and what ever is on the wire from the ignition start circuit
 

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