Por15

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RUSH55 said:
Oh man, that is some great stuff! Do they have a wide range of colors in the Acrolon? Can the primer be topcoated with anything else, or does that venture into the “at your own risk” territory?
Have you spilled any brake fluid on it yet?
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Acrolon can be tinted to any solid color you like, don’t know about metallic.



Yes the primers can be top coated with most anything you would use in this application, I’m sure there is some weird crap floating around out there that wouldn’t be compatible but for this conversation my answer is yes.



The Acrolon is by far the most durable top coat I’ve use and if the Target Carrier ever get repainted again it will go back to it. ( It has Imron on it now and it’s half the paint Acrolon is)
 
RUSH55 said:
Thanks for chiming in with all this Jim! Getting excited again about painting!
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Good. You need to hurry up with that custom rotisserie so that I can use it for mine.
 
Yes, both are used on structural steel in harsh environments.



Read the literature for both and pick the one that best suits your needs.
 
So.... I’m having a hard time letting go of this.

Getting close to the “paint stage” in the build, so chassis paint and paint/coatings for the underside of the tub and inside floor of the tub keeps popping into my head to mull over, because you know, there isn’t already enough to mull over.
It’d be nice to be able to try out several of the top types/brands of chassis paint on equal rigs and test them out equally in the real world so that you can draw your own conclusions rather than drawing them beforehand from the manufacturers advertising. If you only went off of advertising, everyone’s product is the best ever, hands down.
So, you know how lots of chassis paints claim “rock-hard, chip and scratch resistant, blah blah blah” but CAN chip and scratch. Mathys Noxide is supposed to be flexible, so rather, the opposite of “rock hard”. Would that be beneficial for a chassis coating? Instead of a stone impact on the “rock hard” paint succeeding in chipping it, would the stone bounce off the flexible coating like rubber? I know it might sound dumb, but in the industry I’m in, silicon and ceramic tiles hold up better to sandblast type abrasion better than steel.
One of the reasons I’ll throw Eastwood’s Ceramic 2K Chassis Black into the mix too.
Not sure that it’s better than structural steel paint, but it is an option. And that may depend on your experience with Eastwood brand paints, which I’ve heard mixed reviews on.
 
When we attended Mint I saw lots of STEEL-IT around, no idea if irs any good but certainly was popular with the racers...might just be in for contingency money too :meh:
 
I have used Por15 on my axles and they have been great. No chipping and such, and I have tried. So when I started hearing all these bad reviews I was at a loss. :(
 
RUSH55 said:
So.... I’m having a hard time letting go of this.

Getting close to the “paint stage” in the build, so chassis paint and paint/coatings for the underside of the tub and inside floor of the tub keeps popping into my head to mull over, because you know, there isn’t already enough to mull over.
It’d be nice to be able to try out several of the top types/brands of chassis paint on equal rigs and test them out equally in the real world so that you can draw your own conclusions rather than drawing them beforehand from the manufacturers advertising. If you only went off of advertising, everyone’s product is the best ever, hands down.
So, you know how lots of chassis paints claim “rock-hard, chip and scratch resistant, blah blah blah” but CAN chip and scratch. Mathys Noxide is supposed to be flexible, so rather, the opposite of “rock hard”. Would that be beneficial for a chassis coating? Instead of a stone impact on the “rock hard” paint succeeding in chipping it, would the stone bounce off the flexible coating like rubber? I know it might sound dumb, but in the industry I’m in, silicon and ceramic tiles hold up better to sandblast type abrasion better than steel.
One of the reasons I’ll throw Eastwood’s Ceramic 2K Chassis Black into the mix too.
Not sure that it’s better than structural steel paint, but it is an option. And that may depend on your experience with Eastwood brand paints, which I’ve heard mixed reviews on.
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You have such an opportunity having the body on the rotisserie you can coat the bottom, firewall underside of the roof, etc.
And paint is always such a crucial stage - so much prep work to "get it right".
I will be curious what direction you go after studying the @J Mack and @scrapdaddy knowledge...
 
xtremeVA said:
make the coatings thick enough so that they will never chip down to bare metal....then drive the heck out of it.
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Exactly! I over compensate due to lack of knowledge. The products I used were mainstream products and maybe not the best out there, but they seem to be holding up while still keeping the cab quite and somewhat cool. I can't say enough about how the "tinny" sound of the doors and body are totally gone.
 
PabloCruise said:
You have such an opportunity having the body on the rotisserie you can coat the bottom, firewall underside of the roof, etc.
And paint is always such a crucial stage - so much prep work to "get it right".
I will be curious what direction you go after studying the @J Mack and @scrapdaddy knowledge...
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Exactly that!☝️ And studying what several others who have done similar builds. One thing in common across the board with every build I’ve studied is that nobody does anything the same. Nobody uses the same products in the same areas. Everybody uses what they prefer. So then, it makes the decisions for resto-mod newbs like myself that much more difficult.
 
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