Por15

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xtiaan2000

Joined
Dec 1, 2009
Threads
200
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3,632
Location
Conejo valley
Started researching the best prep and application of Por15 and was bombarded w how bad the product was with cracking and overall stiffness. I had always heard it was the best!

I was planning on doing the entire interior with the stuff after sandblasting but now I’m not sure that it is the way to go.

What y’all think?
 
Por is a moisture cure urethane and wouldn’t be my first choice to paint the interior of your pig, like you mentioned it will dry hard and be prone to cracking.

It has it's place and is a good product for some applications.
 
It’s good for frames, inner fenders, core supports, axle housings, etc...
Have to use their “topcoat” on anything that sees UV. There’s better options out there for an overall interior paint, but it might be fine for the floorboards. I guess the good thing about it if it does chip, they also sell it in an aerosol can, you know, for quick, handy touch up!😃😄
 
Club guy in the 510 world literally peeled a full sheet off after the floor started rusting underneath his meticulously prepped por15 job, then spent way too long getting the rest off...I have no personal experience but this was enough to put me off it.
 
I used it on my '85 4Runner axles front and rear and it has held up very well but I meticulously prepped and applied per their instructions. I think there are much better products for the interior.
 
I plan to follow the same path with the different layers.
Any suggestions on a better sealer? As per Target, I have 3M cavity wax for the tight chanels, but now I’m not sure what to get for the cab. I know that I am going to sandblast first.
God knows I don’t wanna do this again for a while!
 
I would lay a base coat of epoxy primer before anything. Sand/scuff everything and then spend a lot of quality, “getting to know you” time with some lint-free tack cloths and wax/grease remover to completely and thoroughly clean everything, then start spraying some epoxy primer. Once there’s a few coats of that down, do a light sand with some 120 grit, re-clean with the same diligence as before then lay down some decent paint.
 
xtiaan2000 said:
I know that I am going to sandblast first.
Click to expand...
Because you’re sandblasting I would look at industrial epoxy coatings as opposed to automotive epoxy coatings.

I used Sherwin Williams epoxy primer on mine then top coated with a flexible coating (Mathys Noxyde) and it’s holding up well.



industrial.sherwin-williams.com

Offshore | NA-PCG-US | Sherwin-Williams

Coatings for the offshore industry engineered to protect assets in the most extreme environments
industrial.sherwin-williams.com industrial.sherwin-williams.com
 
I am into the industrial direction! But there are a million primers on that Industrial Sherwinwilliamsbsight! :0
 
xtiaan2000 said:
But there are a million primers on that Industrial Sherwinwilliamsbsight! :0
Click to expand...
I believe I linked the primer I used on my build thread, I'll look around tomorrow and see what I can find but the Zinc primer they have now might also be a good option.

industrial.sherwin-williams.com

Corothane® I GalvaPac 2K | Sherwin-Williams

A two-component, moisture-curing urethane zinc rich primer.
industrial.sherwin-williams.com industrial.sherwin-williams.com
 
J Mack said:
I believe I linked the primer I used on my build thread, I'll look around tomorrow and see what I can find but the Zinc primer they have now might also be a good option.

industrial.sherwin-williams.com

Corothane® I GalvaPac 2K | Sherwin-Williams

A two-component, moisture-curing urethane zinc rich primer.
industrial.sherwin-williams.com industrial.sherwin-williams.com
Click to expand...
How does that spray with hvlp? The same as automotive 2k epoxy primer. Price about the same? I use dupont epoxy on all my cruisers. Always looking to improve.
Thanks,
Mike
 
On bare metal I have been using U-Pol acid etch #8 as a first layer of primer. You can spray epoxy or other primers over top of it, but it just provides a good first layer of protection to bare metal. I buy the liter can and use a touchup gun to spray it. The product is "ready to use" so it easy to dump some in a primer gun and spray. You can use epoxy or other primers over top of this layer. It dries overnight, easy to sand, and sticks very well to bare metal. Use a paint prep/degreaser just prior to spraying....just about nothing stick to an oily surface.

Good luck with your project.
 
mmcinnis said:
How does that spray with hvlp? The same as automotive 2k epoxy primer. Price about the same? I use dupont epoxy on all my cruisers. Always looking to improve.
Thanks,
Mike
Click to expand...

Industrial epoxy coatings are completely different than automotive paints, industrial coatings performance is based on mill build and most are designed to be sprayed with a pressure pot or airless or can be brushed or rolled. Not to say you can’t thin them beyond the recommended amount and spray them in a conventional gun but for something like interior panels or under body I would use a 2qt pressure pot anyway.

Industrial primers typically don’t sand well so they don’t lend themselves to typical automotive exterior painting without a little extra work, when I painted the exterior of my pig the first time I used Acrolon 218 industrial paint so it wasn’t an issue for me but I thought it worth mentioning.



If we’re talking about ultimate protection and adhesion the only choice is going to come from the industrial coatings side, you’ll never see bed liner, undercoating or lizardskin in the ballast tank or bilge of a ship, not to say any of those products are bad, they just aren’t as good at protecting steel from rusting in harsh environments.
 
I think it would work well on areas you plan to coat with another product, like a lizard skin or undercoating. Perfection and final sand not that important, for looks.
Mike
Ps may need to buy another paint gun/pressure pot?
 
xtiaan2000 said:
I am into the industrial direction!
Click to expand...
Starting about page 17 of my build thread I link the primer and paint I used and show some of the guns I used to apply them. Target carrier

From my build looks like I used.

Recoatable Epoxy Primer B67 SERIES for the primer, it’s a marine grade primer that should offer years of protection and it has a longer recoat time than most epoxy primers.






Acrolon 218 HS Acrylic Polyurethane for the top coat, it very durable for a paint and looks better than a bedliner coating on the outside.



 
Always get the beta on IPPS!

I am interested in the floor and ceiling.

I want to do heat and sound deadner with a top coat of a Linex type material, aka Scrappdaddy.
 
xtiaan2000 said:
I am interested in the floor and ceiling.
Click to expand...
I looked into the products Scrapdaddy used and yes they are a very popular product in the automotive world.



I ended up going a slightly different direction with a combination of Mathys Noxyde

Mathys - Noxyde





And added my own Insulating Ceramic Microspheres when I sprayed both sides of the firewall & floor and the underside of the roof with the Noxyde.

Ceramic Microspheres Make Paint Insulate



I also coated my inner fenders, inner doors and quarter panels with the Noxyde but didn’t add microspheres.



I can’t tell you if my method is better than his nor would I be willing to debate it just throwing more information out here for guys looking for options.
 
J Mack said:
Starting about page 17 of my build thread I link the primer and paint I used and show some of the guns I used to apply them. Target carrier

From my build looks like I used.

Recoatable Epoxy Primer B67 SERIES for the primer, it’s a marine grade primer that should offer years of protection and it has a longer recoat time than most epoxy primers.






Acrolon 218 HS Acrylic Polyurethane for the top coat, it very durable for a paint and looks better than a bedliner coating on the outside.



Click to expand...


Oh man, that is some great stuff! Do they have a wide range of colors in the Acrolon? Can the primer be topcoated with anything else, or does that venture into the “at your own risk” territory?
Have you spilled any brake fluid on it yet?
 
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