Lots of Toyota products use electric boosters. But you are right it shouldn't cost 4k to fix.
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The evidence for this is on ebay --- similar parts for the 200 series are on sale on ebay for well over $1k. Since many of the problem is caused by motor wear, which will eventually happen, the 200 series will face same problem in due time.@hippoinacar I have not heard of many reports. Do you have additional info to share?
The evidence for this is on ebay --- similar parts for the 200 series are on sale on ebay for well over $1k. Since many of the problem is caused by motor wear, which will eventually happen, the 200 series will face same problem in due time.
What year is your vehicle?Mine failed at 238k. Motor stopped coming on. I also tried pumping the brakes rapidly just to see what happened and my ABS light came on and it started beeping. Good thing I didn't drive this thing for our roadtrip last weekend.
Changed my vote as well. I thought about just buying a new motor and accumulator and rebuilding the master cylinder, but it's such an old part I don't want the same thing to happen a few years later.
Brand-new brake master assembly incoming.
What year is your vehicle?
My company (City Racer LLC) has developed a new replacement pump motor (47960-60010) that addresses the shortcoming of the OEM unit. I'd like to invite 1 IH8MUD member to participate in trial testing. Basically, what this means is that you'll receive a new (not rebuilt) motor from us free of charge. In turn, you'll agree to install the unit promptly and provide feedback. Please PM me if you're interested.
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Quite stoked to see how this turns out!My company (City Racer LLC) has developed a new replacement pump motor (47960-60010) that addresses the shortcoming of the OEM unit. I'd like to invite 1 IH8MUD member to participate in trial testing. Basically, what this means is that you'll receive a new (not rebuilt) motor from us free of charge. In turn, you'll agree to install the unit promptly and provide feedback. Please PM me if you're interested.
View attachment 2545029
My company (City Racer LLC) has developed a new replacement pump motor (47960-60010) that addresses the shortcoming of the OEM unit. I'd like to invite 1 IH8MUD member to participate in trial testing. Basically, what this means is that you'll receive a new (not rebuilt) motor from us free of charge. In turn, you'll agree to install the unit promptly and provide feedback. Please PM me if you're interested.
View attachment 2545029
There are 2 key areas, which I'll elaborate on after the part goes live. One is the heat dissipation hole on the OEM unit that allows water and oil to enter and contaminate the electricals. We moved the location of this hole to mitigate the issue. Second has to do with an area inside the alloy section of the pump where the factory machining process has tolerance control issues. That's why some OEM pumps last longer than others.Are you at Liberty to say what 'improvements' have been made/incorporated into this version?
"There are 2 key areas, which I'll elaborate on after the part goes live. One is the heat dissipation hole on the OEM unit that allows water and oil to enter and contaminate the electricals. We moved the location of this hole to mitigate the issue. Second has to do with an area inside the alloy section of the pump where the factory machining process has tolerance control issues. That's why some OEM pumps last longer than others"There are 2 key areas, which I'll elaborate on after the part goes live. One is the heat dissipation hole on the OEM unit that allows water and oil to enter and contaminate the electricals. We moved the location of this hole to mitigate the issue. Second has to do with an area inside the alloy section of the pump where the factory machining process has tolerance control issues. That's why some OEM pumps last longer than others.
IMHO most of these brake failures are preventable, in the relative shorter term.
It's difficult to define short term. As brake usage in a perfectly health brake system, is so varied. As some are constantly on brake pedal ever few feet (stop and go traffic). Whereas others may go ~200 or more miles without touching pedal on regular basis (HWY vehicle). The 1 million mile Toyota had no brake issues reported IIRC.
It is sudden zero pressure in brake master and lines, that yields pedal to the floor (relatively no usable brakes). This happens from lose of fluid or brake booster pump motor failure.
Eventually all brake booster motor will fail. It's the motor failing to start that yields zero pedal more than anything else I've seen. As the motor turns the pump, pressurizing the accumulator.
A few tips:
First, never ignore brake warning lights or alarms.
Second, after vehicle has sat for a few hours (pressure bleeds down over time, the older the system the faster it bleeds down) or more. Turn IG key to ON, than wait and listen before starting engine. You'll hear brake booster motor run for up to 40 seconds. Not hearing or hearing run time longer is a warning. If not heard, press brake pedal a few times, it should than be heard. If motor does take all of 40 second run time before stopping, that should be investigated but is considered okay to drive.
Periodically test booster motor run time. Do this by pumping brake pedal 40 times with IG key off or key out of IG. Than turn IG key to ON, and time booster motor run time. 40 seconds is max. 28 second is a very health system with new master assy, good fluid and caliper pistons and seals. 40 seconds is limit, but may indicate some weakness. i.e low voltage/amp, weak seals, bad fluid, etc. Over 40 second and service is necessary.
Prevent measures.
Hope this helps. Be safe!
- Flush brake fluid often. No longer time period between flushes than 3 years, after first factory fluid flushed out.
- I've gone back to using only Toyota brake fluid. It's pricey and may not make any difference, as Toyota no-longer states on bottle who makes. But the extra cost for piece of mind, for what is stated on the bottle "engineered to Toyota spec" may help protect internal seal. If seal weep/leak under pressure, motor will run excessively.
- Inspect motor run time and listen for excessive running of motor.
- Never overfill brake fluid reservoir. Fluid may escape from cap or grommets at bottom. If fluid get on booster motor brake control wires, it may enter boots protecting wires at connection points. The ensuing corrosion from hygroscopic action, will increase resistance of brake control wires. This will hasten motors failure, very rapidly. Brake fluid may also get into breather port for motor. The moisture will attack dust. This may clog breather and then as motor creates a vacuum (high RPM spin) it will suck fluid from pump into motor.
- Inspect breather at bottom of booster motor annually. Deep water crossings, driving in tall grasses, muck, very dusty condition, missing fender or undercarriage shielding, lifted increase open area in fender to engine bay, oversize tires, etc. May all add to debris entering engine compartment. Be on the watch and check breather more often under these or extreme driving condition. Or ensuing fluid sucked into motor will damage brake booster motor.
- Keep battery, battery post and clamps properly serviced. Volt/Amp drop from battery, will be the same as increased resistance in wires. This will effects RPM (slowing) and life of all motors. The brake booster motor and fuel pump motor of the most concern.
- Keep grounds to frame, body and engine properly serviced.