Plus sized tires and fender well contact on jumps? (1 Viewer)

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Some of you might be wondering why I'm asking about jumping a 200 series and then some of you have driven with me before. On my FJC even with 33's I would rub the upper plastic fender liner on hard landings. With 35's it ate the fender liners.

Now I haven't seen any posts so far (Mind I haven't read everything in this forum yet) on extended front bump stops or Air Bump Stops for those of you with built 200's. I am curious, those of you running 33"+ tires, have you run into any contact issues with the tire on the top of the fender on hard impact?
 
33s won't bottom out on the top of the front fender with stock bump stops.

I've only had the rears rub the upper inside fender, at complete full compression with all weight on one rear tire,compressing both the susp. This was on 35 Toyo M/Ts.

20180102_131954.jpg
 
with the 37's yes.... even with the Timbrens... I went back to Energy Susp bumpstops front and rear and 35's, and on my favorite set of railroad tracks this weekend it was smooth sailing best I could tell.... but I had the shocks in extra firm so that may of limited uptravel a bit... the rear is fine. I think the tundra front might creat some extra issues but it's worth it once you get the offset / tire size right.

E
 
33s won't bottom out on the top of the front fender with stock bump stops.

I've only had the rears rub the upper inside fender, at complete full compression with all weight on one rear tire,compressing both the susp. This was on 35 Toyo M/Ts.

20180102_131954.jpg


I had a similar rubbing with one side fully compressed on 34" without spacers on RW wheels. Now, I have a spacer on the back. No issues with the front (Tundra setup).
 
So, you're that guy:

 
My 200 is an overweight, gas guzzling oinker. The idea of “jumping” it makes me smile!

:)
 
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If you are planning on getting airborne seriously consider the Tundra swap for the front end. the added track width will help with squirrely landings.
with icon shocks and energy suspension extended bump stops, the front will not hit.

with high offset wheels (50-60 for rock warriors or stock wheels) the rear will rub. as shown by Tony and Kamal.
haven't had any rub with 35s since adding spacers on 50mm offset wheels.
would be interesting to see if a wheel with 25mm offset would clear without spacers.

photo is 35" tire, Tundra control arms, no shock, jacked up to the energy susp bump stops.
the stop will compress more with the weight of the vehicle than what I was doing with the jack,
but I've hit a crossroad at 50 to get the truck off the ground, and it landed smooth, no rubbing.

full compression.jpg
 
May not be the perfect thing but If you don't mind loosing a little bit of the up travel ,, I installed about 1/4" of spacer between the bump stop and frame after installing 315 on GX.
Can't go more then this on OEM bolt.
 
If you are planning on getting airborne seriously consider the Tundra swap for the front end. the added track width will help with squirrely landings.
with icon shocks and energy suspension extended bump stops, the front will not hit.

with high offset wheels (50-60 for rock warriors or stock wheels) the rear will rub. as shown by Tony and Kamal.
haven't had any rub with 35s since adding spacers on 50mm offset wheels.
would be interesting to see if a wheel with 25mm offset would clear without spacers.

photo is 35" tire, Tundra control arms, no shock, jacked up to the energy susp bump stops.
the stop will compress more with the weight of the vehicle than what I was doing with the jack,
but I've hit a crossroad at 50 to get the truck off the ground, and it landed smooth, no rubbing.

View attachment 1603185

I'm in a LX570 vs. a LC, I haven't compared the LCA's and UCA's to see if there is any difference between the two other than the bracket for the AHC sensor. I'm guessing geometry is probably the same but I haven't seen anyone do the Tundra swap on a Lexus yet. I'm all for more travel so I'll dig into it here soon. Would be cool if all you needed to do was move the AHC bracket to the Tundra UCA and add a spacer to extend the overall coil length.

Fedex just brought me some new rotors and TRD Brake pads yesterday so I'll have an opportunity to inspect in the near future.
 
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Just wrapped up the brakes. Found OEM pads on the rear with ony about 2mm of life left, and some NAPA pads in front with lots of pad left. Looks like the previous owner or dealership repaced just the fronts prior to sale. Oh well, brand new TRD pads all around now. Probably the easiest brake job I have ever done. 100k on the truck now and zero corrosion underneath, everything broke free easily, was like working on a brand new vehicle.

The AHC sensor does appear to be the only difference I could spot staring at my UCA and comparing to the LC images. I neglected to look at the LCA for differences. The AHC sensor bracket could easily be replicated, or cut off and moved. It's just held on with one little spot weld.
 
Jump it and it’ll self clearance and you’re good to go.

LOL! 34" (275/65R20 = 34.1" x 10.8") Falken Wildpeak AT3W's are ordered and being mounted up this coming Saturday so I'll have some real world testing results soon.

Follow Up: HUGE Improvement with the TRD pads... though I think anything would have been an improvement over the cheapo front pads and nearly shot OEM pads in the rear. Firmed up the pedal and initial bite is excellent. Followed the recommended bedding process that was included with the pads. Nine 60MPh-10MPH braking intervals right at the ABS intervention threshold. Cool down to ambient then repeat for a second session. I didn't replace the stock rotors or have them resurfaced and brakes are nice and linear with zero vibration.
 
I wanted to follow up to share my experience getting the 275/65R20 Falken Wildpeak AT3Ws to fit on my stock LX570.

I went through several steps and revisions to get it completely rub free under all conditions. I ended up with BORA 1/2" hub centric spacers all around. Removal of the front mud flaps. And a near complete removal of the front fender liner. Pretty much the entire lower 10" of the liner had to be removed. I initially pull the liner forward about an inch but that still didn't give me enough room. I reshaped the ridges with a heat gun so they stuck in instead of out. I finally ended up having to just go wild with the angle grinder and chop a significant amount of plastic out. Nearly as much as you would trim to install an ARB bumper. I'm happy with the results, and I plan to install an ARB bumper in the future so I don't mind the aggressive trimming. These things run quite large, at 36PSI sitting flat in my garage they actually measure 34.3" from floor to top of the tread. That's actually slightly taller than the 315/75R16's I ran on my FJ.
 
I ran 35.8's with just mild scuffing of the body mount..... 37's hit solidly. my current 35's with about the same trimming the OP did are fully clear.

E
 
So no body mount issues running 34’s? I wouldn’t mind cutting my liners since I’m running no liners in my Tundra.

Nope, not like the Tundra with the front body mount interference. From what I remember 35"s would contact the mount in my Tundra. The body mount is there in the 200, in a similar fashion, but it's nowhere near contacting the tire unless you go with an crazy tire size (37"+)
 
No body mount issues and no UCA issues even without the spacers.
 
With the tundra conversion 35s rub slightly.

If you go with the SPC upper arms you can push the wheels forward enough to clear with no issues.
 

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