Plastic vs Metal - Battle of Oil Filter Housings (1 Viewer)

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TeCKis300

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An interesting thing to me has always been the "upgrade" we're doing by sourcing the Venza metal oil filter housing.

Is it really better?

I suspect there is a good reason that our beloved Land Cruisers come with the plastic oil filter housings. Sure, the common assumption is plastic is an inferior material to metal. That's generally true but not always the case and I know in the aerospace sector, metal is not always the superior choice. What we don't know is the processes these are built with. And what the original engineering trade space was that resulted in the fitment of the plastic version as the right solution for our trucks.

High quality plastic and composite parts are often spec'd for their advantages. These include better chemical and corrosion resistance properties. They can be lighter weight and insulating thermally and electrically. High quality plastics can be just as strong as metal in certain designs. I suspect the major reason though, is their greater durability and resilience for impact resistance. Where a commodity metal part can bend too much or crack rendering it unserviceable.

It's wholly possible we're doing ourselves a disservice by "upgrading" to the metal housing.

Evidence.

The common metal oil housing 15620-31060 that is substituted is found in mass produced commodity vehicles.

1713657744674.png


The original plastic part fitted to our Land Cruisers is only found in heavier duty Toyota trucks.
1713657702519.png


The OEM parts are ~$35 vs ~$100, metal to plastic respectively. Doesn't seem like they went to plastic because it was cheaper/easier to produce.
 
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Good thread. What you left out, and I know you recognize this, is the thermal expansion rates of different materials. The 'metal' oil filter cap is aluminum and I believe the housing is steel? They expand at different rates and on critical joints or threaded connections, this can mean the difference between a seal that lasts and one that leaks. I don't think the oil filter housing is a 'precision' fit but perhaps this comes into play with their decision?
 
I do not remember all details in that very long thread for metal replacement but I think one issue was service people tightening the thing way too much resulting in broken plastic housing. So $35 vs $100 replacement part. I may not remember correctly.

Plastic is fine by me as long as it is a simple cup design as I have in my Volvo. But Toyota tried to be clever with that valve. In my opinion that valve is over engineering. I never had a problem replacing the Volvo housing and when I change Toyota filter I just remove the whole housing.

I do have the metal one, just because at the time I changed oil the first time, LX was my only rolling vehicle and based on the horror stories in here, I got the part to make sure I have it just in case.
 
@TeCKis300

If having a metal oil filter housing (vs polymer) helps people sleep better at night—good.

The OEM polymer housing will perform as needed unless you have ham fisted amateurs/DIYers servicing your Land Cruiser.

If you have amateurs/DIYers without skill and lacking a torque wrench servicing your Land Cruiser—the material (metal/polymer) of your oil filter housing will be the least of your concerns.

Folks who have no professional skill will create a variety of issues above/beyond oil filter housing related issues.

NOTE: For most owners, I recommend having professionals service your LC, or if you do it yourself—be competent at wrenching and/or inspecting work done on a lift after.
 
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Before I bought the LX, it was leaking oil at the plastic filter housing (only ever serviced at a Lexus dealership). I replaced it with a new Venza one and it doesn't leak after 45,000km. Would the leak have stopped if I had used a new plastic one instead? probably...

I sure didn't pay $100 for the aluminum one... maybe $40 CAD
 
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My used truck came with a ratted out plastic version. It was an easy choice to replace with the venza. I don't understand why it could possibly be contentious?

Buy the venza, buy a fit for purpose circle/socket remover thingy, and oil filter changes are easy.

While we're here - what's better? TRD filters or OEM paper filters?
 
@grinchy

No data exists on a TRD vs OEM paper oil filter.

The OEM composite filter housing is the way to go. I don’t understand why people swap them for aluminum ones from the Venza, but I suppose some don’t realize how strong modern composites are.

Note: This will of course lead to another lengthy internet debate, lol. 😁
 
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So if I am reading right.
The only reason to change to the metal on is…
- if your oem cap is already f***d up as hell so you will change it anyway
- you give your 200 out to get serviced by places who have no idea how to use propper tools

Besides that. Is there any benefit for these?
When I got my 200 I just got a cheap 5$ tool from Amazon that does the job on opening and tightening even with my kinda worn out cap. (and for sure everyone should have a tourque wrench at home…)
 
I still have the plastic one on my LX my friend owns his own shop and has been working on cars 30+ years now. He said the only time he has seen them brake/leak is when there he-manned on by quick lube shops or idiots at the dealership...there one in the same lol.
 
All those budget vehicles that have the metal housing put it closer to the ground and behind no significant protection, unlike our cruiser and tundra where it’s tucked up out of the way.

Yes mine will never be over-torqued when I work on it but occasionally I’m in the middle of a roadtrip lengthy enough that I can’t defer an oil change and must trust a shop with the work. The aluminum part gives me confidence I’ll actually be able to get it back off at the next change.


Good thread. What you left out, and I know you recognize this, is the thermal expansion rates of different materials. The 'metal' oil filter cap is aluminum and I believe the housing is steel? They expand at different rates and on critical joints or threaded connections, this can mean the difference between a seal that lasts and one that leaks. I don't think the oil filter housing is a 'precision' fit but perhaps this comes into play with their decision?

The oil filter housing is aluminum, so swapping this part makes sense to cover that concern.

Not to mention, the plastic part needs a bronze threaded section molded in for the aluminum oil filter drain cap, where on the alloy one the material is strong enough to be threaded directly. So even less dissimilar materials.
 
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Just saying that we don't know the trade space Toyota is working with. They have two form fit function parts that are generally interchangeable. Yet there are two distinct part numbers made out of two different materials. What derived requirement was not met by the original commodity metal part? Why did they go through the trouble of spec'ing another part with associated development? To fit them to their trucks? Then take the overhead of carrying yet another part number. It's obvious this was not a price driven decision.

It comes back to requirements that were likely not met by the commodity metal part. I've not found the 200-series / Land Cruiser to ever get fit with inferior OEM parts.

While we're here - what's better? TRD filters or OEM paper filters?

Great example. In my mind, this one is easier because I understand the trade space and what their goal for "better" was.

Race filters are designed for higher flow with less resistance. Maybe a bit more structure to support the media under extended high flow use. Ultimately it is to reduce parasitic drag towards the goal of increased power output.

That's the same trade for performance or race air filters. And there we know we shouldn't presume it as better filtering. Often race stuff comes with compromises that don't make for a better daily driver use.
 
Filter Cap
For me damaging the high $$$ female thread (engine side) of the 3UR-FE is the main reason not to go with a metal or light alloy Venza style replacement. The risk a “mechanic” will cause damaging using incorrect tools or methodology is not insignificant in my view.

Staying OEM, I bought the expensive yet well designed Motivx tool for removal. I plan to keep that adaptor in the dash together with the wheel lock key, just in case I need a change on a long trip at Pep Boys or equivalent. I must say planning to self oil change every 5k I rather drive on for another 2 or 3k on such a one off occasion.

Filter
Filter (and filter cap O-ring) wise I recently bought six direct from a local Toyota dealer and they are in OEM packaging/materials so no surprises there of imitation parts. No change of type from OEM to prevent any performance surprises.

Oil
Plan to switch here at 35k miles from 0W20 to 5W30. Reasons are a) a bit more film strength under operating conditions b) a bit more pressure on the chain tensioners to prevent issues with chain slack c) original factory and design was around 5W30 for as far as I can see d) operating temperature range of 5W30 is very wide, 0W20 is just an EPA “invention”

Will use Pennzoil UP 5W30 as it seems good price at Walmart and high quality oil. Of course many 5W30’s will be fine.
 
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It's wholly possible we're doing ourselves a disservice by "upgrading" to the metal housing.

Evidence.

The common metal oil housing 15620-31060 that is substituted is found in mass produced commodity vehicles.

View attachment 3612415

The original plastic part fitted to our Land Cruisers is only found in heavier duty Toyota trucks.
View attachment 3612414

These application lists overlook a distinction between the "commodity" and heavy duty vehicles: The larger engines needed a bigger filter, requiring a different support tube. They couldn't use the same part number if they wanted to.

Plus, Toyota went back to plastic for their supposedly cheap vehicles. Image search 15620-36020 which is a short-tube plastic cap.

Screenshot 2024-04-21 at 11.02.04 AM.png


(Edit: and now most of their vehicles including the new tundra went back to spin-on filters)

And it's more expensive than the aluminum part, at least to the consumer anyway.

It's entirely possible the plastic 3UR part was further along in the development cycle and the plan was to move to plastic all along... like they are doing for oil pans and plenty of other engine parts. Also possible that was for cost savings at the scale they produce these.

I agree we don't know exactly why toyota chose metal vs plastic, but due to the thread diameter and pitch there is basically no risk of cross-threading or improper installation other than over-torque, and the aluminum part handles that better than plastic. Then you tack on uniform thermal expansion.. I feel even better about my choice so long ago.
 
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I think it's worthwhile to say that not all plastics are the same, and many advanced composites are being substituted for what was traditionally metal. I see it in the aerospace industry, which is not as often a cost driven sector. Equally, not all metals are the same, and there are different grades and processes.

Good info all around and it would be great to discover more to understand Toyota's reasons. Sometimes we find nuggets in these deep dives. Other times, there's only enough anecdotal information where it's not clear cut and each will have to choose their own poison.

Unless there is more info, it's hard to go wrong with what's delivered. I do have confidence and trust the Toyota/Land Cruiser brand, to fit only the most durable designs and parts factory. So I'm not going to second guess their decision here.
 

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