Plastic vs Metal - Battle of Oil Filter Housings

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Not sure if this means anything, but after installing the metal oil filter housing, the next time I changed the oil, I was not able to get the bolt to drain the oil out. I was super specific and torqued both to spec. Idk if im just unlucky or the stock bolt and new filter dont exactly match.
Cap I got - 15620-31060
I got a new bolt for the next time I change the oil, maybe ill be able to get it out.
 
Valgrind said:
Not sure if this means anything, but after installing the metal oil filter housing, the next time I changed the oil, I was not able to get the bolt to drain the oil out. I was super specific and torqued both to spec. Idk if im just unlucky or the stock bolt and new filter dont exactly match.
Cap I got - 15620-31060
I got a new bolt for the next time I change the oil, maybe ill be able to get it out.
Click to expand...
Did you buy the Venza cap direct from a Toyota dealer and the packaging looked OEM? If not and say bought via eBay or Amazon it can be a Chinese copy with even look alike packaging.
 
04UZJ100 said:
Once the filter is inserted on the stand, so long has nothing has fallen out, it doesn’t matter if the stand is loose or not. It’s not going anywhere….
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Seems the important part is the spring bypass and the correct positioning of the same. While I have not opened it up and I will not (staying OEM), if the tube holds the spring in place I can see bypass happening at a lower dP. This is not good at all and the problem AMD is pointing out.
 
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2021 LC200 said:
Did you buy the Venza cap direct from a Toyota dealer and the packaging looked OEM? If not and say bought via eBay or Amazon it can be a Chinese copy with even look alike packaging.
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I bought that exact part number from a Toyota dealer. My hunch is that the original bolt was just messed up somehow, it looks used and abused lol, so thats why I got a new one.
 
When I got my 2016 LC with 60k miles and did my first oil change at 65k miles, I used the MotivX tool to get the plastic oil filter off, and let’s just say it was a butt pucker situation where the filter housing cracked at the ribs and it was very close to me not being able to get the housing off. After that, I threw it in the trash and used the aluminum Venza filter after that. Plastic is probably okay if you are torquing it to spec yourself, but if anyone else works on your car (even dealers) there’s too much risk of not being able to get the filter housing off.

To me the plastic vs. metal debate is all about price cutting from Toyota. They may charge more for a replacement because it may be lower batch numbers, but I doubt the metal is cheaper to produce.

I have not heard of one instance where the block was damaged from cross threading the metal one onto the block. In fact, even if I tried, I don’t think I could purposefully cross thread it due to the tapered design.

I would use the OEM regular filter and not the TRD since they can’t seem to cut the TRD filters at a flat angle…
 
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2021 LC200 said:
Seems the important part is the spring bypass and the correct positioning of the same. While I have not opened it up and I will not (staying OEM), if the tube holds the spring in place I can see bypass happening at a lower dP. This is not good at all and the problem AMD is pointing out.
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Yes and you can verify that by pressing on the assembly to verify it’s “springy” and not locked.
 
Lou Gill said:
why change something that isn’t broke.
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Zill said:
When I got my 2016 LC with 60k miles and did my first oil change at 65k miles, I used the MotivX tool to get the plastic oil filter off, and let’s just say it was a butt pucker situation where the filter housing cracked at the ribs and it was very close to me not being able to get the housing off. After that, I threw it in the trash and used the aluminum Venza filter after that. Plastic is probably okay if you are torquing it to spec yourself, but if anyone else works on your car (even dealers) there’s too much risk of not being able to get the filter housing off.

To me the plastic vs. metal debate is all about price cutting from Toyota. They may charge more for a replacement because it may be lower batch numbers, but I doubt the metal is cheaper to produce.

I have not heard of one instance where the block was damaged from cross threading the metal one onto the block. In fact, even if I tried, I don’t think I could purposefully cross thread it due to the tapered design.

I would use the OEM regular filter and not the TRD since they can’t seem to cut the TRD filters at a flat angle…
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Well said, including the part about TRD filters.
 
Zill said:
When I got my 2016 LC with 60k miles and did my first oil change at 65k miles, I used the MotivX tool to get the plastic oil filter off, and let’s just say it was a butt pucker situation where the filter housing cracked at the ribs and it was very close to me not being able to get the housing off. After that, I threw it in the trash and used the aluminum Venza filter after that. Plastic is probably okay if you are torquing it to spec yourself, but if anyone else works on your car (even dealers) there’s too much risk of not being able to get the filter housing off.

To me the plastic vs. metal debate is all about price cutting from Toyota. They may charge more for a replacement because it may be lower batch numbers, but I doubt the metal is cheaper to produce.

I have not heard of one instance where the block was damaged from cross threading the metal one onto the block. In fact, even if I tried, I don’t think I could purposefully cross thread it due to the tapered design.

I would use the OEM regular filter and not the TRD since they can’t seem to cut the TRD filters at a flat angle…
Click to expand...

Just curious, how do you break the fins when the Motivx tool does not use the fins to undo the cap?

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1713831798263.webp
1713832057210.webp
 
Ok, makes sense now Zill, thanks!

I bought it recently together with the thread on funnel and the drain nipple/hose.

Your experience and those of others must have led to these changes...

1713832905376.png


Added a youtube video of the same. The dude seems a bit "excessively" liking it ... But it is pretty good. You still need to take care undoing an over torqued cap.

 
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2021 LC200 said:
Ok, makes sense now Zill, thanks!

I bought it recently together with the thread on funnel and the drain nipple/hose.

Your experience and those of others must have led to these changes...

View attachment 3614179
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Thanks for catching that.

Hell, I might even buy that one for the aluminum housing anyway. It seems like it engages the housing way easier than trying to get the tabs lined up just right.
 
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Zill said:
I honestly didn’t even know that filter was the MotivX one. But they have another which does grip the fins. I guess don’t buy that one if you are using the plastic housing. ;)

View attachment 3614172
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Yup, I have the same early version Motiv tool.

I came across at least one dealer tech post that said this style of early Motiv tool was prone to break the fins as you did when used with ridiculous torque. Where the OEM SST would not. Good to see that Motiv revised their tool.

When unreasonable torque is applied, somethings got to give. Just as possible that some of the failures were designed fuse points, so that more significant damage can be avoided. Something OEMs do with Failure Mode, Effects & Criticality Analysis (FMECA).
 
I must have the best mechanic on plant earth, never any problems with filters, fluid changes, tires or repairs (not many repairs) and he’s only 29 (owns his own business) so I will have him around for a long time!!
 
Valgrind said:
I bought that exact part number from a Toyota dealer. My hunch is that the original bolt was just messed up somehow, it looks used and abused lol, so thats why I got a new one.
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Maybe I'm reading this wrong, but it sounds like you expect oil to come out when you uninstall the plug on the end of the filter housing. That plug is a 2nd seal. Oil shouldn't come out when you remove that. If it was coming out before, then your housing was defective. Oil shouldn't come out until you use either the plastic funnel thing included with the filter or use one of the screw on tools pictured in this thread after the plug is removed.
 
I ❤️ these threads. 🍿👀
 
lx200inAR said:
Maybe I'm reading this wrong, but it sounds like you expect oil to come out when you uninstall the plug on the end of the filter housing. That plug is a 2nd seal. Oil shouldn't come out when you remove that. If it was coming out before, then your housing was defective. Oil shouldn't come out until you use either the plastic funnel thing included with the filter or use one of the screw on tools pictured in this thread after the plug is removed.
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No, the small bolt was stuck in the housing
 
A lot of very reasoned and thoughtful engineering gets chucked out the window when a disgruntled and/or ignorant person muscle-****s stuff. The alloy housing is more muscle-**** resistant. Beyond that I don’t think there is an appreciable difference between the two.
 
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