Plastic vs Metal - Battle of Oil Filter Housings

[mdh384]

A lot of very reasoned and thoughtful engineering gets chucked out the window when a disgruntled and/or ignorant person muscle-****s stuff. The alloy housing is more muscle-**** resistant. Beyond that I don’t think there is an appreciable difference between the two.

 

[Valgrind]

Perhaps they torqued on the filter cap using the drain plug screw…

No it was me, I was very careful to torque it to spec. Old bolt (15 years) and new metal cap.

 

[bloc]

For the record the torque value on the drain plug is quite low, below what most wrenches can verify accurately. I use an in-lbf wrench (plus the appropriate math) for that plug and the KDSS screws. It's more in the middle of the range of that wrench and I have more confidence in the final torque.

 

[gluaisrothai]

I always lube both o-rings with the smallest amount of DC4 possible before installation. This seems to prevent the lower cap from becoming frozen.

I owned an FJ for a decade with the same setup as the LC…followed the same process there.

Less is more, there is a theory that small amounts of silicone (PDMS) could contaminate the cat.

Best,
Ken

 

[Valgrind]

I always lube both o-rings with the smallest amount of DC4 possible before installation. This seems to prevent the lower cap from becoming frozen.

I owned an FJ for a decade with the same setup as the LC…followed the same process there.

Less is more, there is a theory that small amounts of silicone (PDMS) could contaminate the cat.

Best,
Ken

That’s a good idea, I put a little oil on the o ring but I’m sure that would help more.
I also used a 3/8 harbor freight torque wrench lol so it gets down to the for 9.5ft/lb… (as long as that’s correct), but I mean HF is not going to be the greatest accuracy ever…

 

[TeCKis300]

Food for thought.

We know the seal to the filter assembly is via an o-ring. It is designed and configured as a male radial seal . The threads and consequential torque on them really don't matter to the seal, so long as the assembly is retained.

Our assemblies have a little metal tab that helps prevent the assembly from backing out.

In other countries like Australia, the 200-series comes with an even more positive locking tab that looks like this. Australia is known for their huge expanses of Outback and relentless washboard roads, and perhaps why they get a slightly different configuration tailored for their more common use cases.

Composite components are known for their ability to better handle and dampen vibration. This would be a clear advantage for its resistance from backing out. It's known the metal assembly can screw in/out with little resistance until torquing. Add to that an interface which has ever-present oil.

See where I'm headed?

Perhaps the composite oil filter assembly was spec'd for it's retention advantages. That's a clear difference with how trucks are used versus passenger cars.

 

[bloc]

I’d be curious how many aluminum filter caps have backed out by themselves.

 

[TeCKis300]

I’d be curious how many aluminum filter caps have backed out by themselves.

All the ones in the states mall crawling?

 

[Zill]

All the ones in the states mall crawling?

Are there any reports of the metal housing failing/cracking?

To me, the reason why they specced a plastic filter was they put them on platforms that are already shielded be a metal skid plate. Plastic is cheaper to produce than aluminum, and it was where they could save a buck in the production process. Granted, the 200 series Land Cruiser is a platform where damn near everything is designed and built to a ridiculous standard, but it seems like some of the American Tundra/Sequoia design cost cutting influences creeped into the 3UR platform. (Since that’s where the majority of the 5.7 motors were sold)

You can’t honestly say plastic oil pans or transmission pans are better in the long run compared to aluminum, as we have seen on many American designed products in the last decade. (Leaks galore)

The mere heat cycles that occur in these applications make metal a superior choice in the long run.

 

[2021 LC200]

- Cost wise, the Land Cruiser 200 oil filter housing is MSRP $94.16 and that for the Venza is MSRP $46.61
- Heat cycle wise the OEM plastic made part vs the alloy part will certainly be different, so why would using another one than OEM be a good thing?
- As pointed out by technicians who work on these filter housings all the time, removal of the tube and spring check valve mechanism can lead to lose parts or out of calibration of the same, leading to early bypass of the filter. This is the biggest reason to stay away from this popular mod.

 

[04UZJ100]

I ordered a replacement plastic housing. Installed yesterday during what is a miserable oil change experience.

 

[TeCKis300]

Are there any reports of the metal housing failing/cracking?

To me, the reason why they specced a plastic filter was they put them on platforms that are already shielded be a metal skid plate. Plastic is cheaper to produce than aluminum, and it was where they could save a buck in the production process. Granted, the 200 series Land Cruiser is a platform where damn near everything is designed and built to a ridiculous standard, but it seems like some of the American Tundra/Sequoia design cost cutting influences creeped into the 3UR platform. (Since that’s where the majority of the 5.7 motors were sold)

You can’t honestly say plastic oil pans or transmission pans are better in the long run compared to aluminum, as we have seen on many American designed products in the last decade. (Leaks galore)

The mere heat cycles that occur in these applications make metal a superior choice in the long run.

Sorry if I didn't clarify, I'm not sure failing or cracking is the discriminator?

The latest point is that retention can be a concern in a high vibration application, especially one where the threads are bathed in oil. That's a fact for any fastener in a high vibration application. Was trying to show that there's at least several mitigations to retention because the potential is real. That's why Toyota fits springs, clips, and perhaps this composite filter assembly as ways of increasing margins to reduce the potential of backing out, even if it were somehow under torqued.

 

[2021 LC200]

I ordered a replacement plastic housing. Installed yesterday during what is a miserable oil change experience.

The aluminum/light alloy one is any different regarding the process of draining and changing the filter vs the OEM plastic one?

I can see the Jewett one with build in drain valve be different.

 

[2021 LC200]

Once I put the plug back on with the correct torque I may mark it like this for easy future install.

 

[bjowett]

Toyota states right in their new car features that aluminum is used to extend the life of the cap. Plastic is used for weight reduction… that may be, but in reality it’s for cost savings and future parts sales due mostly to install error… but eventually the plastic will age and cycle out before the aluminum. In a perfect world, plastic will last a for a good long time. The world isn’t perfect though.

The same properties that give the plastic impact resistance are also what lead it to fail. The slight flex/conformability allow the plastic threads to squeeze and go deeper into the oil filter bracket than is intended. They jamb up in there quite nicely. It also flexes out of shape and allows the tool to slip while attempting to unscrew it. Then Toyota can sell another one.

Every 70 Series that has a cartridge filter equipped engine receives the aluminum cap. Every Lexus/Yamaha V8 in the F Series cars receives aluminum.

As for the bypass, the Car Care Nut is wrong with his explanation, and I wish he would update the video. The coil spring has nothing to do with the bypass. It does two things, allows for some variance in oil filter height, and allows the drain flap to operate. The bypass valve is located in the base of the perforated tube, and is difficult to mess with.

 

[2021 LC200]

Toyota states right in their new car features that aluminum is used to extend the life of the cap. Plastic is used for weight reduction… that may be, but in reality it’s for cost savings and future parts sales due mostly to install error… but eventually the plastic will age and cycle out before the aluminum. In a perfect world, plastic will last a for a good long time. The world isn’t perfect though.

The same properties that give the plastic impact resistance are also what lead it to fail. The slight flex/conformability allow the plastic threads to squeeze and go deeper into the oil filter bracket than is intended. They jamb up in there quite nicely. It also flexes out of shape and allows the tool to slip while attempting to unscrew it. Then Toyota can sell another one.

Every 70 Series that has a cartridge filter equipped engine receives the aluminum cap. Every Lexus/Yamaha V8 in the F Series cars receives aluminum.

As for the bypass, the Car Care Nut is wrong with his explanation, and I wish he would update the video. The coil spring has nothing to do with the bypass. It does two things, allows for some variance in oil filter height, and allows the drain flap to operate. The bypass valve is located in the base of the perforated tube, and is difficult to mess with.

You have pictures or a drawing explaining this? Regarding the bypass valve.

 

[bjowett]

Here is the bypass from underneath. It’s a shot peened flexure spring with a disc riveted to the other side. Pressure difference will force the disc up allowing oil to bypass. The perforated tube is staked to this piece. The coil spring does nothing here.

 

[2021 LC200]

Probably already well known. Video showing conversion from plastic to alloy and the way to set over the perforated tube.

 

[2021 LC200]

Here is the bypass from underneath. It’s a shot peened flexure spring with a disc riveted to the other side. Pressure difference will force the disc up allowing oil to bypass. The perforated tube is staked to this piece. The coil spring does nothing here.
View attachment 3619292

So the little coil spring shoulders on the outer edge and does not affect the flexture spring force?

It is just there to force down the bottom drain valve?

 

[2021 LC200]

Some further insight on the female/male thread and how the O-ring sealing is not affected by torque. Also the importance of putting the O-ring in the right groove;

"Actually, the oil filter cap does "bottom out" on the oil filter bracket (See diagram). Where the diagram shows "No Gap" is where it bottoms out. Additional torque past 18 ft-lbs is just putting additional stress on the threads. But, given how much torque is applied by oil change gorillas using impact wrenches, I don't think you need to worry about over-tightening. If it'll make you feel better, loosen the cap a quarter turn, and re-torque to 18 ft-lbf. Sealing of the filter cap is not dependent on torque...it shouldn't leak until the o-ring physically clears the bore.

The Toyota filters have a diagram on the side of the box that shows how to install the o-ring, so getting the o-ring in the wrong position must be a common issue. Most of us are accustomed to o-rings that "face seal" against another surface. The Toyota design seals on the oil filter bracket bore like a hydraulic cylinder seal."