Pistorman's 1970 FJ40 build

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As for the new MBM brake booster I bought on ebay for less than in their direct sale website, I bought the corresponding "clevis" that connects the brake pedal with the booster's pedal rod and it arrived. The OEM one has a different thread to the pedal rod hence it wouldn't work. You can see the old OEM one above and the new one below.
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You will have two large boxes containing lots-o-electrical parts showing up at your house early next week! (I got put back in the hospital twice this week and it slowed down finishing up the last little bits. )

Here is a list of what all has been done for this electrical project for those that are curious.

Complete OEM harness (except for the emissions computer circuits) was built using the old harness as a guide. GXL correctly color coded wire was used throughout. Where I deemed necessary, I increased the wire size to reduce voltage loss. Lighting circuits and alternator wiring are the two primary areas, plus the rear harness. Also added some protective rubber caps to help prevent under the hood shorts on the alternator and starter.

Added a 4 Pin Rear Trailer pigtail (with tie to OEM chassis ground circuit) that can be removed and capped. Weather -Pak connectors used for this.

Three fused circuits were added: One for AC, one for radio, one for CB.

Created new headlight sub harnesses with Weather-Pak connectors that use aftermarket sockets. Just like OEM, these are shipped dis-assembled so the wires can be pulled through the small OEM holes in the bucket then the socket is assembled inside the bucket to complete.

Created a "by-pass jumper" so that the dash light switch does not need to be on to have the dome light work. Included the wire for the dash lights for when he finds one.

Added one of my Fusible Links to the connection at the starter to prevent harness fires in case of a major short on chassis side of the charge wire.

Sourced a solid state regulator from Wagner and included that.

Fog light harness was created using Weather-Pak connectors for easy disconnect. This harness mates to Motts Fog Light Switch.

Rear Heater Harness was made based on the original. (Note: Does NOT use OEM connectors as they are not available. Weather-Pak connectors were used.)

Modified the OEM Washer Motor bullet connectors to use the 2 pin connector on the aftermarket kit that SOR sells.

Changed the connector for the flasher unit to ones that will work with OEM OR aftermarket.

Victor sent me all the OEM and aftermarket lights including the fog lights. Those have been rewired with the proper colored coded wires so they will now match a schematic.

E-Brake switch cleaned and rewired.
4WD light rewired.
Turn signal Dash lights rewired.
Brake Warning Light rewired.
Three Speed Column Reverse light Switch unstuck, cleaned and tested.
Cigar Lighter cleaned up and tested (Though you may want to get a new one to match the rest of this beautiful vehicle!)

All switches that TrollHole had redone were installed and tested on the harness. They not only look perfect, but function perfect as well.

Finally, at Victors request to aid in putting the harness back in the truck, I labeled every single connection! That took forever but I can see how it will really help.

The pic shows the rewired lights ready to be installed.
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man....

Man I wish you did later cruisers CoolerMan :)

Cal-
 
You will have two large boxes containing lots-o-electrical parts showing up at your house early next week! (I got put back in the hospital twice this week and it slowed down finishing up the last little bits. )

Here is a list of what all has been done for this electrical project for those that are curious.

Complete OEM harness (except for the emissions computer circuits) was built using the old harness as a guide. GXL correctly color coded wire was used throughout. Where I deemed necessary, I increased the wire size to reduce voltage loss. Lighting circuits and alternator wiring are the two primary areas, plus the rear harness. Also added some protective rubber caps to help prevent under the hood shorts on the alternator and starter.

Added a 4 Pin Rear Trailer pigtail (with tie to OEM chassis ground circuit) that can be removed and capped. Weather -Pak connectors used for this.

Three fused circuits were added: One for AC, one for radio, one for CB.

Created new headlight sub harnesses with Weather-Pak connectors that use aftermarket sockets. Just like OEM, these are shipped dis-assembled so the wires can be pulled through the small OEM holes in the bucket then the socket is assembled inside the bucket to complete.

Created a "by-pass jumper" so that the dash light switch does not need to be on to have the dome light work. Included the wire for the dash lights for when he finds one.

Added one of my Fusible Links to the connection at the starter to prevent harness fires in case of a major short on chassis side of the charge wire.

Sourced a solid state regulator from Wagner and included that.

Fog light harness was created using Weather-Pak connectors for easy disconnect. This harness mates to Motts Fog Light Switch.

Rear Heater Harness was made based on the original. (Note: Does NOT use OEM connectors as they are not available. Weather-Pak connectors were used.)

Modified the OEM Washer Motor bullet connectors to use the 2 pin connector on the aftermarket kit that SOR sells.

Changed the connector for the flasher unit to ones that will work with OEM OR aftermarket.

Victor sent me all the OEM and aftermarket lights including the fog lights. Those have been rewired with the proper colored coded wires so they will now match a schematic.

E-Brake switch cleaned and rewired.
4WD light rewired.
Turn signal Dash lights rewired.
Brake Warning Light rewired.
Three Speed Column Reverse light Switch unstuck, cleaned and tested.
Cigar Lighter cleaned up and tested (Though you may want to get a new one to match the rest of this beautiful vehicle!)

All switches that TrollHole had redone were installed and tested on the harness. They not only look perfect, but function perfect as well.

Finally, at Victors request to aid in putting the harness back in the truck, I labeled every single connection! That took forever but I can see how it will really help.

The pic shows the rewired lights ready to be installed.

Wow...beautiful!!!
I know you will be taking some time for the house, but pm sent :cheers:
 
You will have two large boxes containing lots-o-electrical parts showing up at your house early next week! (I got put back in the hospital twice this week and it slowed down finishing up the last little bits. )

Here is a list of what all has been done for this electrical project for those that are curious.

Complete OEM harness (except for the emissions computer circuits) was built using the old harness as a guide. GXL correctly color coded wire was used throughout. Where I deemed necessary, I increased the wire size to reduce voltage loss. Lighting circuits and alternator wiring are the two primary areas, plus the rear harness. Also added some protective rubber caps to help prevent under the hood shorts on the alternator and starter.

Added a 4 Pin Rear Trailer pigtail (with tie to OEM chassis ground circuit) that can be removed and capped. Weather -Pak connectors used for this.

Three fused circuits were added: One for AC, one for radio, one for CB.

Created new headlight sub harnesses with Weather-Pak connectors that use aftermarket sockets. Just like OEM, these are shipped dis-assembled so the wires can be pulled through the small OEM holes in the bucket then the socket is assembled inside the bucket to complete.

Created a "by-pass jumper" so that the dash light switch does not need to be on to have the dome light work. Included the wire for the dash lights for when he finds one.

Added one of my Fusible Links to the connection at the starter to prevent harness fires in case of a major short on chassis side of the charge wire.

Sourced a solid state regulator from Wagner and included that.

Fog light harness was created using Weather-Pak connectors for easy disconnect. This harness mates to Motts Fog Light Switch.

Rear Heater Harness was made based on the original. (Note: Does NOT use OEM connectors as they are not available. Weather-Pak connectors were used.)

Modified the OEM Washer Motor bullet connectors to use the 2 pin connector on the aftermarket kit that SOR sells.

Changed the connector for the flasher unit to ones that will work with OEM OR aftermarket.

Victor sent me all the OEM and aftermarket lights including the fog lights. Those have been rewired with the proper colored coded wires so they will now match a schematic.

E-Brake switch cleaned and rewired.
4WD light rewired.
Turn signal Dash lights rewired.
Brake Warning Light rewired.
Three Speed Column Reverse light Switch unstuck, cleaned and tested.
Cigar Lighter cleaned up and tested (Though you may want to get a new one to match the rest of this beautiful vehicle!)

All switches that TrollHole had redone were installed and tested on the harness. They not only look perfect, but function perfect as well.

Finally, at Victors request to aid in putting the harness back in the truck, I labeled every single connection! That took forever but I can see how it will really help.

The pic shows the rewired lights ready to be installed.


Looking thru your post I see where you redid the E-Brake switch. I just bought a 70 and it didn't have one. Then looking thru this thread I realized this is 7/70 or later. Mine is a 10/69 production date. So now it make sense.

The other thing that caught me eye was being in the hospital twice this week. Hope everything is okay. Take care of yourself and take it easy.:cheers:
 
You will have two large boxes containing lots-o-electrical parts showing up at your house early next week! (I got put back in the hospital twice this week and it slowed down finishing up the last little bits. )

Here is a list of what all has been done for this electrical project for those that are curious.

Complete OEM harness (except for the emissions computer circuits) was built using the old harness as a guide. GXL correctly color coded wire was used throughout. Where I deemed necessary, I increased the wire size to reduce voltage loss. Lighting circuits and alternator wiring are the two primary areas, plus the rear harness. Also added some protective rubber caps to help prevent under the hood shorts on the alternator and starter.

Added a 4 Pin Rear Trailer pigtail (with tie to OEM chassis ground circuit) that can be removed and capped. Weather -Pak connectors used for this.

Three fused circuits were added: One for AC, one for radio, one for CB.

Created new headlight sub harnesses with Weather-Pak connectors that use aftermarket sockets. Just like OEM, these are shipped dis-assembled so the wires can be pulled through the small OEM holes in the bucket then the socket is assembled inside the bucket to complete.

Created a "by-pass jumper" so that the dash light switch does not need to be on to have the dome light work. Included the wire for the dash lights for when he finds one.

Added one of my Fusible Links to the connection at the starter to prevent harness fires in case of a major short on chassis side of the charge wire.

Sourced a solid state regulator from Wagner and included that.

Fog light harness was created using Weather-Pak connectors for easy disconnect. This harness mates to Motts Fog Light Switch.

Rear Heater Harness was made based on the original. (Note: Does NOT use OEM connectors as they are not available. Weather-Pak connectors were used.)

Modified the OEM Washer Motor bullet connectors to use the 2 pin connector on the aftermarket kit that SOR sells.

Changed the connector for the flasher unit to ones that will work with OEM OR aftermarket.

Victor sent me all the OEM and aftermarket lights including the fog lights. Those have been rewired with the proper colored coded wires so they will now match a schematic.

E-Brake switch cleaned and rewired.
4WD light rewired.
Turn signal Dash lights rewired.
Brake Warning Light rewired.
Three Speed Column Reverse light Switch unstuck, cleaned and tested.
Cigar Lighter cleaned up and tested (Though you may want to get a new one to match the rest of this beautiful vehicle!)

All switches that TrollHole had redone were installed and tested on the harness. They not only look perfect, but function perfect as well.

Finally, at Victors request to aid in putting the harness back in the truck, I labeled every single connection! That took forever but I can see how it will really help.

The pic shows the rewired lights ready to be installed.

Mark this is an awesome piece of artwork. I am very lucky to have this in my now new FJ40. I can't thank you enough!
 
I bought these tools to make new fuel lines and to adjust the SOR oem type hard brake lines. Amazon about 22 and 28 each.
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could you post a picture of the tubing bender outside the box?
 

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