PIG + Chebby Avalanche Trim =?

[Gumby]

I'm looking for new coils for mine. I need something in the 300 lb range about 5" in diameter. I heard EB springs might be the way to go. Most TJ springs seem to be in the 175-200 lb range.

What are you using?

 

[LC_Hamma]

I'm looking for new coils for mine. I need something in the 300 lb range about 5" in diameter. I heard EB springs might be the way to go. Most TJ springs seem to be in the 175-200 lb range.

What are you using?

I'm using the stock rear TJ coils & 2" TJ lift coils for the front. Rear uptravel will be about 4" & I'm still working on adjusting the fronts, but it'll be much more. The rears have retainers top & bottom to maximize droop. The fronts won't be retained but will limit those w/ straps.

 

[LC_Hamma]

More Adjusting....

I needed to level out the front coils & relocate them slightly outward for alignment & they were a bit too close to the frame also. I holesawed some mat'l. from the top plate & it weakened it too much so I had to reinforce that area. I added 1 1/2" to level it out. I used 1/4"wall tube & lightened it some. Next will be the lengthened bumpstops.

 

[LC_Hamma]

Finished w/ the front coil relocation & bumpstop adjustments. I'll have 4" of uptravel & around 6" of downtravel depending on driveshaft/ u-joint operation.

 

[LC_Hamma]

Steering Redo:

Instead of buying another hysteer arm for the driver side, I just figured I'd fab it similar to how I set up the steering on my 40. Only change will be the drag link will mount on the top of the hy steer arm. I already have the pieces cut out & will assemble within a few days. Here's the example:

 

[LC_Hamma]

After a bolt misalignment issue, I finally got the hysteer arm finalized. I'll be moving onto the knuckles next, then cutting & forming the brackets for the hydro-assist mounts.

 

[40Flipper]

Super cool!!!

 

[LC_Hamma]

The POR15 on the knuckles is drying so they are done. I'll fit up the steering linkage & mock the hydro mounts. I kept the cardboard cutouts from when I fabbed the 40's hydro, so I'll prolly just reuse them

 

[LC_Hamma]

I have the axle mount tacked in. I'll attach the extending end to the underside of the drag link.

 

[LC_Hamma]

Got 1/2 of the drag link bracket tacked up, just need to finish shaping the other piece & burn it in. Then, I'll use curved inner bracket pieces & cap both tops w/ curved 1/8" mat'l.

 

[LC_Hamma]

Done w/ the drag link bracket. Onto finishing up w/ the axle mount. No other bracketry to fab after this

 

[LC_Hamma]

Gotta paint it all, reassemble, & redo 2 brakelines then the front will be 98% done. All that's left to do is order one more inner axleshaft & measure for limiting straps. Already have the shocks & all the brake stuff ready to bolt up. I ordered some hydro fittings & will measure for the lines real soon.......

 

[LC_Hamma]

Front brakelines are redone. Also had to cut, bend & reweld the shock mounts to center them up w/ the coils (they were a bit too close). I refabbed the caliper rubber line to hardline bracket too. I'm just waiting on my 34" long custom braided brakeline to connect to the junction on the firewall. That's located just to the right of the emergency brake cable bracket. You can see how my ARB airline, axle housing breather & braided brakeline all tie together at the top of the housing

 

[LC_Hamma]

Updates

I got my braided brakeline hooked up, got my hydro fittings & have assembled all the steering links & hydro ram. I'll have some hoses made locally for the steering. Currently, I've been running wiring for the aux. lights & messing w/ the ARB harness. Gettin close to finishing my part of this build.......

 

[Trollhole]

Instead of buying another hysteer arm for the driver side, I just figured I'd fab it similar to how I set up the steering on my 40. Only change will be the drag link will mount on the top of the hy steer arm. I already have the pieces cut out & will assemble within a few days. Here's the example:

How come no one drills a hole in the top or bottom of there steering arm where the knuckle bearings are and install a zerk like above?

Would make a really easy way to keep those bearings lubricated.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

How come no one drills a hole in the top or bottom of there steering arm where the knuckle bearings are and install a zerk like above?

Would make a really easy way to keep those bearings lubricated.

This came up in another thread.

To get grease to the trunion bearings, you'd need to cross drill the steering arm to direct the grease accurately to the bearings. That'd make them weaker with little to no benefit. They are very low speed bearings and rarely fail due to a lack of grease, so essentially you're making the steering arm and lower bearing cap weaker, by drilling the grease holes, with little to no benefit.

 

[LC_Hamma]

The stock D60 greasable points are plenty perfect. The old grease gets pushed out evenly to relube the bushing on top & the bearing on bottom. However, the bottom plate SHOULD'VE had a recess milled into the center so the zerk fitting doesn't get knocked off. I had all my bottom plates milled like this:

 

[LC_Hamma]

Dash Panel

The stock panel needed a little rearranging for a larger stereo & a few other switches. So, I patched & relocated a few of the stock switches & enlarged the stereo opening. I'm still running a little bit of wiring & locating antennas, CB, relays & other switches. I'll have a local shop do the total rewire later on.

 

[LC_Hamma]

Bad news on the stereo - it's too deep & hits the windshield wiper arms I did manage to find a good used CB on Ebay, it's the same one I have in my 40. Got it cheap in good shape too. It arrived today. So, I cut out a bracket that'll mount overhead, centered in the roll cage cuz I wanted to keep the lower dash uncluttered.

 

[CDUFF7]

still following along, seems as if every last nut and bolt on this truck has been modified, it is a masterpiece!