Does anyone have a picture for the original cranker? I just want to be able to rotate the crankshaft.
Any ideas?
Any ideas?
Picture of original crank start?
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Does anyone have a picture for the original cranker? I just want to be able to rotate the crankshaft.
Any ideas?
Any ideas?
spotcruiser
Geezer
Put the truck in high gear, let the parking brake off, and nudge it backwards or forwards.
Mark W
Yep, I really don't really care that much I guess.
A rachet and socket on the crank nut works well. Difficult to get the OEm hand crank in through the bib and radiator on most non-ancient rigs. 
Mark...
Mark...
JohnnyC
Long ago TLCA# 2231
mounted on the front of my rig...red arrow pointing to hand crank
about $20 from Toyota
I didn't know Toyota would still have these cranks! I'll check with my local dealer on Monday!!! Thanks for the ideas!!
- Thread starter
- #9
Thanks guys...i think I'll order one
Check out this bit of handy work...the shaft is an old diesel push rod. The ears are cut off nails.
The nails just bent over, but I had to try. I'm posting the picture for entertainment value.
Check out this bit of handy work...the shaft is an old diesel push rod. The ears are cut off nails.
The nails just bent over, but I had to try. I'm posting the picture for entertainment value.
Nope hole is there. Go check it out. Right under the radiator.
Well there's certainly no hole through to the crankshaft pulley on mine! Mind you - I've never heard of anyone hand-cranking a diesel!!!!
By God you're lucky if you can use a handcrank though. Not having to rely on the starter motor or having a "good battery" is a big plus in my books.
By God you're lucky if you can use a handcrank though. Not having to rely on the starter motor or having a "good battery" is a big plus in my books.
When I was a poor college student and had a dead starter in my 79 FJ40, I used to use one all of the time. At first, I was skeptical that it would work but it did actually get the truck running after a few tries. You had to have a good running engine and I only used it when I could not aim the truck down hill. After a few weeks, I got tired of the hassle and bought a used starter.
There is no "hole" to put it through, you just go to either side of the bib hinge and under the radiator.
An old of mine, Josh Fleming showed me how to do it and lent me the crank. He said it was a FJ55 rear tire tool - for lowering the spare down from where it's stored.
I have heard since that these can be dangerous but I never had any trouble.
-Stumbaugh
There is no "hole" to put it through, you just go to either side of the bib hinge and under the radiator.
An old of mine, Josh Fleming showed me how to do it and lent me the crank. He said it was a FJ55 rear tire tool - for lowering the spare down from where it's stored.
I have heard since that these can be dangerous but I never had any trouble.
-Stumbaugh
Look under the bezel, just off center. There's a one-way connector under there. In my case (1970 FJ40), my jack handle fit in there and engaged that connector. I turned it over with ease.
early 40/45 had a bracket on the bumper that the handle sat in or on, then it went thru the lower grill to the crank.
the bracket looks almost indentical to the spare crank bracket on a 60 series(rear)
the bracket looks almost indentical to the spare crank bracket on a 60 series(rear)
rsbcruiser
SILVER Star
I use the one on my 74 55 to time the engine during valve adjustment. works much better than socket because you can turn and watch for the timing mark at the same time, Alternative uses to, like freeing up a reversed shackle, starting a fire, fending off bears, opening beers on and on
Crank Pic
Mike,
I took a pic of my stock crank setup ('83 FJ40).
You can see the support that mounts on the bumper.
I started it - it was easy, fired up on the first quarter turn.
My engine is "just rebuilt tight" .050" bored over, head planned and top of block shaved with compression over 160 psi all around.
The crank stores behind the driver side jump seat with the handle resting beside the jack.
cheers
Mike,
I took a pic of my stock crank setup ('83 FJ40).
You can see the support that mounts on the bumper.
I started it - it was easy, fired up on the first quarter turn.
My engine is "just rebuilt tight" .050" bored over, head planned and top of block shaved with compression over 160 psi all around.
The crank stores behind the driver side jump seat with the handle resting beside the jack.
cheers
Thanks desertpat. That is a really NICE wagon!
Studying the front of my 1979 BJ40, it might just have been possible to slip the crank in on the RH side of the bib hinge but it would practically touch the radiator base-tank while cranking. (Not good.) Besides, I've run wiring (that used to sit on the bottom lip of the bib panel and promote rust there) along that crossmember to block access anyway.
It would be an interesting exercise to try handcranking a diesel - But I don't think it is at all possible due to the high compression ratio.
Cheers. Here's a pix to show what I mean about my wiring.
Studying the front of my 1979 BJ40, it might just have been possible to slip the crank in on the RH side of the bib hinge but it would practically touch the radiator base-tank while cranking. (Not good.) Besides, I've run wiring (that used to sit on the bottom lip of the bib panel and promote rust there) along that crossmember to block access anyway.
It would be an interesting exercise to try handcranking a diesel - But I don't think it is at all possible due to the high compression ratio.
Cheers. Here's a pix to show what I mean about my wiring.
I don't mean to nerd-out this thread, but the diesel question was really interesting.
<nerd start>
Part of me thought that the compression would be mostly cancelled out by the position of the other cylinders, with a six cylinder doing so more completely than the four.
Being bored at work, I plotted the torque required to overcome engine compression for our favorite engines, woweee, 300+ft-lbs to spin a diesel! Keep this estimate is based on the dimensions (bore/stroke) and compression ratio only, so drag and accesories are on top of this.
<end nerd>
I'm suprised the F and 2F were as high as they were as well, but clearly the diesel is a different animal. Too bad, I would have loved to crank-start mine.
<nerd start>
Part of me thought that the compression would be mostly cancelled out by the position of the other cylinders, with a six cylinder doing so more completely than the four.
Being bored at work, I plotted the torque required to overcome engine compression for our favorite engines, woweee, 300+ft-lbs to spin a diesel! Keep this estimate is based on the dimensions (bore/stroke) and compression ratio only, so drag and accesories are on top of this.
<end nerd>
I'm suprised the F and 2F were as high as they were as well, but clearly the diesel is a different animal. Too bad, I would have loved to crank-start mine.
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