Builds Picked up a Pickup (3 Viewers)

[Toast]

This is what I did on a spare dash. I think I could do better next time to make the transition less noticeable.

1986 4Runner Refresh

Dude! That looks sick!! I bought this stuff specifically for filling in cracks in vinyl dashboards. It’s like a super flexible bondo I guess. Was planning on filling over the top of the original vinyl, sanding smooth and painting the entire dash. I get that it would be smooth in the spots I filled but I think it will look a hell of a lot better than the cracks. Now that I see your approach I think I might go that direction. Where did you get your vinyl from??

 

[Toast]

I was looking at the coverlay dash covers but my only concern was how does one remove the Speedo bezel to remove the speedo? The coverlay is one piece right?

 

[Manhattan]

Damn @GeoRoss that is great work. I should correct my earlier comment - Good used dash, custom/pro repair and badass DIY. The DIY route did come up a few pages back - one of the wrapped his dash in a vintage cloth that looked great.

@Toast that's a good question. I guess you'd peel it off and do it again? The silicon (Silco RTV 4500) used to put the dash down seems like it'd peel up reasonably easy. There was a bit of excess that squished out of a corner. 24 hours later, I just peeled off - nothing left on the dash. On one hand I was surprised how easy it came up. On the other, I was glad - if I need/want to pull this off, it doesn't seem like it'll be a problem.

 

[GeoRoss]

Dude! That looks sick!! I bought this stuff specifically for filling in cracks in vinyl dashboards. It’s like a super flexible bondo I guess. Was planning on filling over the top of the original vinyl, sanding smooth and painting the entire dash. I get that it would be smooth in the spots I filled but I think it will look a hell of a lot better than the cracks. Now that I see your approach I think I might go that direction. Where did you get your vinyl from??

I just picked it up at a local fabric store. This was mistake #2. I used the same vinyl on my door cards and this vinyl is not holding up to wear from my cig windows. I should have looked at "automotive" grade vinyl. Lesson learned, I won't feel to bad if I need to do them over.

I'll look at that vinyl flexible bonds if I redo it. I would like that crack to less noticeable, but I was also thinking I could just put a dashboard phone mount there and problem solved. I haven't put the dash in yet. I am petrified about getting the PS side vent out without destroying it. I really wish one of our resident 3D printing wizards would come up with a replacement.

 

[GeoRoss]

Damn @GeoRoss that is great work. I should correct my earlier comment - Good used dash, custom/pro repair and badass DIY. The DIY route did come up a few pages back - one of the wrapped his dash in a vintage cloth that looked great.

@Toast that's a good question. I guess you'd peel it off and do it again? The silicon (Silco RTV 4500) used to put the dash down seems like it'd peel up reasonably easy. There was a bit of excess that squished out of a corner. 24 hours later, I just peeled off - nothing left on the dash. On one hand I was surprised how easy it came up. On the other, I was glad - if I need/want to pull this off, it doesn't seem like it'll be a problem.

Thanks, I was pretty happy with how it turned out.

 

[Manhattan]

@rustED71 guess what time I took this picture...

 

[rustED71]

@rustED71 guess what time I took this picture...

View attachment 2318686

Looks great, I'm glad were able to put it to use!

 

[Manhattan]

Thanks again @rustED71 - sent the clock and a spare harness AND covered shipping. Thank you!

 

[Toast]

Geoross, taking the ps vent out isn’t too bad. I’ve done it over and over without breaking one. It helps if it’s hot out so grab a heat gun if it’s cold where you are. Plastic is more forgiving when it’s warm. I use these little flat spoon looking deals to do it. Kinda like a small flathead screwdriver but not sharp. Start from the top left insert in and kind of scoop down and towards you. There’s these little metal tangs that you gotta bend down slightly to pop out. Move to the other top side and once you have both out you can kinda pull up and out. Bottom tangs may grab so use a tool to do the same as top if needed.

 

[gnob]

On that ps vent. If you pull the grille out, you can remove the metal clip things from the inside. That way you aren't prying on the dash pad.

 

[pappy]

On that ps vent. If you pull the grille out, you can remove the metal clip things from the inside. That way you aren't prying on the dash pad.

I need to try this the next time I'm at the boneyard. I have never been able to get those vents out without destroying everything.

 

[yotadude520]

On that ps vent. If you pull the grille out, you can remove the metal clip things from the inside. That way you aren't prying on the dash pad.

That's how I do it!

 

[GeoRoss]

Geoross, taking the ps vent out isn’t too bad. I’ve done it over and over without breaking one. It helps if it’s hot out so grab a heat gun if it’s cold where you are. Plastic is more forgiving when it’s warm. I use these little flat spoon looking deals to do it. Kinda like a small flathead screwdriver but not sharp. Start from the top left insert in and kind of scoop down and towards you. There’s these little metal tangs that you gotta bend down slightly to pop out. Move to the other top side and once you have both out you can kinda pull up and out. Bottom tangs may grab so use a tool to do the same as top if needed.

Warm temperatures are not a problem for me at the moment.

 

[GeoRoss]

On that ps vent. If you pull the grille out, you can remove the metal clip things from the inside. That way you aren't prying on the dash pad.

Awesome! Which grill are you talking about? Speaker grill? I may delve into this if it is that easy.

 

[yotadude520]

Awesome! Which grill are you talking about? Speaker grill? I may delve into this if it is that easy.

You take out the grille inside the PS vent. Just get a long hook and pop it out on the right side and you'll see the 4 clips that are holding that SOB on!

 

[xstogiex]

Man, this thing is looking great! I'm impressed with the interior restorations. Keep it up!

 

[Manhattan]

We finally moved from laptop and paper to saw and welder! We finished the trayback’s frame, mounts, spare tire mount and the sliders.

- For the sliders we used 3" x 1.5" box (thick wall, but I forget the actual thickness on that). The sliders are angled (and will be capped) to match the angle of wheel opening and the ARB's angle. The stringers are 1.5" box (same wall thickness) - welded to square plates that match the height of the truck's frame (and gusseted).
- The trayback’s frame is slightly thinner wall 1.5" box. It is the width of the cab (62”) and at 33”, the corners are cut in – netting a 48" wide rear panel.
- The deck will be 1/8" steel (beefy!) - with lots of strap/hook cutouts.
- The rear panel is 12" tall across the middle, angling up to 8" at the ends. The rear panel has a cutout for the receiver hitch and room on either side of that for a step, two shackle tabs and the rectangular, three-lens FJ40 taillights. 1.5” tube spans the opening in the middle – and tied to the frame.
- The spare will sit in a cutout in the deck, close to cab, behind the driver's seat – about 12 "in" the bed.
- Side panels around the wheels... these are in the cardboard and tape phase. But, there WILL be side panels.
- Last will be the folding and removable side “rails”. Probably 8” tall.

- The sliders, frame, spare mount, receiver associated supports/slides will be powder coated satin black. Side panels will be powder coated the same "Cream" as the body and wheels. The rear panel and deck surface… stilling thinking about those.

It's been so (!) much fun designing pieces and seeing them become real steel.

My sketch:

After some plasmagic!

We changed the design for the license plate - instead of a cutout, there will be an "eyebrow" over the plate.

Side note: I still own an '84 4wd bed that needs rust repair and paint. It's sitting on a container at the bodyshop. But it's gonna stay there for a while

 

[G-Cat]

C’mon @Manhattan , you can’t let ACC beat you to the punch on Facebook like that!

 

[Manhattan]

Ha! I hadn't seen Dugan's post til you posted ^that^. Okay, a couple more pics...

Lots of computer and cardboard mockups...

and finally some steel...

Hard to tell in these pics - the bed narrows to 48" at the end

Still do to - side panels, receiver hitch/support/slider, headache panel/tubes, folding/removable sides.

 

[Zor]

Contouring the area ahead of the wheel well to match the body is