Builds Peter's Ultimate Expo Land Cruiser Build Thread (2 Viewers)

[Behemoth60]

Then I needed to learn up on SolidWorks Blocks to model the motion of the IFS around some design constraints. Assuming my frame width and desired height, existing wheels and tires, and maximium up travel of 100mm, I selected some components.
RCV CV's come with their own constraints. 1.5" plunge (the amount the length of the half shaft can change throughout it's travel, and the maximum operating angles.

I went through 10 iterations of the design, and landed on one that fits all the constraints...

 

[Behemoth60]

A build strategy was determined... work from the outside in. I already have the wheels and tires, so first up is the hub/spindle.
After looking at what's available on the market, and what the racers are doing, I decided on using 99-04' Ford Unit bearings, modified or the bigger 35 spline axle shafts, and re-drilled for my 8 on 6.5 wheels. For rotors, I would use 2010+ RAM 3500 front rotors, and 2003 F450 front calipers.

center of the unit bearing needs to be bored to fit the larger shaft, and the bearing needs to be bored for the larger Timkin 2414 bearing for the larger shaft. I tested the operations on a junk-yard unit bearing, before machining my for-realizes brand new Timkin unit bearings.

Yes, I know that you can just buy these professionally modified by Branik Motorosports, or even buy full race prepped one from Spidertrax, but doing this myself with my new Mill actually paid for about half the mill in this one operation.

 

[Behemoth60]

Not shown (I will update with pictures as I find them...)

The ID of the Dodge Rotor is too small to fit over the center hub of the unit bearing. Use the mill to make bigger the center of the Dodge Rotor.

 

[Behemoth60]

I had a jig lasered out to re-drill the unit bearings to the 8 on 6.5 patter to match my wheels. (I thought about buying new Metric wheels and using the Ford pattern, unmodified unit bearings and rotors, but the CAD$ has dropped 20% since last year, and new wheels are substantially more expensive now. )

 

[Behemoth60]

Then it was on to the knuckle. I decided on using a piece of 6" long Schedfule 80 Pipe as the central part of the knuckle. I had a piece of 1" thick steel water jet cut (the laser only goes to 7/8" I am told) to bolt the unit bearing to, machined the center to perfectly match the unit bearing.

 

[Behemoth60]

Decided on using TMR uniballs for the upper and lower mounts. In Prototype #1, I decided to go with the mounts in a Horizontal configuration. They only have 31 degrees for misalignment. This seems like enough steering, as every Land Cruiser I measured has only about 28 degrees maximum. Although, with my wide stance and narrow frame, I think I can steer about 35 degrees... maybe....

With those parts in hand, I did some more Solid Works designs, and got parts for a Knuckle Prototype #1 created. Tacked it together, and did a test fit-up with Rotor, Calliper and Wheel.

 

[Behemoth60]

More Prototype 1....

 

[Behemoth60]

Found lots of room for improvement in Prototype 1. Decided on a Prototype 2...

Go to Vertical uniballs to maximize steering angles.
Replace most of the caliper cut-out.
Re-align upper a lower mounts to improve steering pivot point.
Refined designs with some bends...

Prototype 2....

 

[Behemoth60]

Have plucked away at a few other things along the way... sorry no pictures today...

early 90's Celica GTS seats installed.
Clutch and Brake pedals installed with hydro boost brake master and Ford clutch master (minus push rods)

Heading to Overland Expo West in Zed, the mostly Stock BJ74, to get some inspiration for the 'Camper' portion of the build. Anyone else going to be there?

 

[Behemoth60]

The body mounts look great!

Are the body mounts junk yard or new ram parts? Never seen or heard of liquid filled mounts before. Bad ass

Body mounts are brand new 2010+ Ram 3500 rear body mounts. Having owned a 2003, then 2010 RAM 3500, I definitely notice the dampening effect of those mounts. They only use them in the rear... I will have them in all 4 corners. They are very stout... hopefully the little Cruiser body has enough mass to make them do their job.

 

[Behemoth60]

I have also started working on the IFS differential.
I considered numerous options... everything from the many factory IFS diffs, to some of the Ford 9" based aftermarket items, like the Currie F9 that the KOH racers seem to like. I also found some inspiration on home-made IFS diffs. But I've never seen a IFS diff made from a 14 Bolt center section. I know from the shave I've completed on the previous housing, that the ring gear can be turned down to ~10" and the diff can be very slim... I bet if I double shaved a 14 bolt center section... both top AND bottom, I could get it very close to the bottom of the engine, and still have pretty decent ground clearance... so I tried it... Ground clearance appears to be at about ~255mm. About what a Cruiser axle would have on ~35" tires. Not a bad compromise, considering that this truck will sit at about the same height, but have 40.5" tires!

 

[lowenbrau]

I could get it very close to the bottom of the engine, and still have pretty decent ground clearance... so I tried it... Ground clearance appears to be at about ~255mm. About what a Cruiser axle would have on ~35" tires. Not a bad compromise, considering that this truck will sit at about the same height, but have 40.5" tires!

A Cruiser axle clearance won't change much with suspension loading though. Your independent design will get lower on downhill sections and on landings. How much clearance will you have when on the bump stops? Will it be enough?

For what it is worth, I have dropped in and looked over this project in-person, regularly since it began and I think it is just crazy enough to work. Every component looks to be stronger than stock or even upgraded stock designs and if this thing is able to go faster, stop better, ride better, be more economical, haul more, turn sharper and break less than a stocker while on 41" tires it is going to be all kinds of fun. All it needs is a mad scientist with a hitch mounted mill to keep it going anywhere in the world.

 

[Behemoth60]

How much clearance will you have when on the bump stops? Will it be enough?

Variable ground clearance is certainly one of the compromises of an independant suspension. On paper, I should still have 155mm of diff to ground clearance when fully bottomed out. Is that enough? Yes.

 

[Douglas S]

This is seriously impressive stuff Peter. Can't wait to see it come together.

 

[TLC Norway]

I need more of this feed!

 

[Hanna Quality]

IFS!!! This build just gets better and better.

Did you consider using hummer portals for the IFS? Im still holding onto that dream for my next build.

 

[Hanna Quality]

Some examples out there
You know now that your all set with the 14 bolt...just flip it over

 

[45Kevin]

Peter went to see the new MadMax movie last week. He got some really cool ideas.

I can't wait for his next post.

 

[Behemoth60]

IFS!!! This build just gets better and better.

Did you consider using hummer portals for the IFS? Im still holding onto that dream for my next build.

Thanks Ken. UNfortuneatly, all these great ideas put my end date further and further out.
Yes, I considered portals. Hummers, and Axle tech portals. There was a G-Wagon at Overland Expo sporting some brand new Tibus portals too. But portals are out for 2 main reasons...

1. To get the ride height low as I want it, the axle shafts are already going to be right under the engine/frame. Portals add height to the engine/frame/body. Upside down portals, maybe?!
2. At BHCC this summer, I was talking trucks over beers with HAVIK, whose use of Mog 406 axles under 45 series trucks is legendary. His twisted customs '45 inspired' buggy is Sic, as the kids say these days. If you ask him what he would do differently... no portals. Heavy, expensive, unobtanium parts, that really add surprisingly small amount of value on the rocks. And his axle has to be clear in front of his engine to fit them. And that's in a rock buggy, where portals should shine. Nope, no portals for me.

 

[Hanna Quality]

Thanks for the response Peter I figured you put some good thought on portals and I wanted to know what you thought. After the U80 build I would avoid putting another set of solid axle portals on a rig with a OEM type frame. Like you said not enough room for up travel amongst other problems. I do think there are some great advantage for portals with Independent suspension and with that comes great complexity.

There is even more advantages to having a rig done and out on adventures compared to working in a shop for the umpteenth hour still not finished.

Im really looking forward to hearing how your IFS goes down on and off the road.