Builds Peter's Ultimate Expo Land Cruiser Build Thread

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You need this one and use it once then decide you need one in a different color and sell to me second hand price

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WDHch7bJp8c#action=share

WOW

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Glad to see Zippo out of its multi-year slumber even if it is for some destructive reasons. I believe some of your time can legitimately be applied to a PMP ;) Anyway, I'm looking forward to seeing your progress. There's a very slight chance we will be out in Surrey in the near future - if that happens perhaps we can be involved in some mud shipping. If you need anything from Ibex (source of my 71) let me know as I'll be down in Chestermere/SE Calgary in December.
 
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Keep it coming peter!!

Home renos have slowed me down but marmaduke needs an outing. Get this thing DONE
 
Frame: 1986 CDM BJ70 Frame with valid Alberta registration, already registered in my name and previously insured… “Zippo, the Cruiser which Bursts Into Flames” will ignite once more. Well, the frame will.

An artist's rendition of said frame.

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You need this one and use it once then decide you need one in a different color and sell to me second hand price

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WDHch7bJp8c#action=share

WOW

I know! Seeing this unit has changed my life. And only $50,000.
The thought and design that has gone into this unit is impressive. I hope that my 'RTT Expo Camper' is as well designed. I have Mr. Awlteq on the RTT Expo camper job, so I have confidence in the outcome of that part of the project.

But THIS.... has delayed my progress in the past week. Back on the project tonight to get ready to remove the remainder of the body from the frame on Saturday.

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if it was only white. You should sell it to me immediately.

VERY nice.

are you changing the deck or keeping it as is?
 
An artist's rendition of said frame.

For some reason, Putting "Fire Extinguisher: Only used Twice" in your for sale add doesn't get people excited about buying one's truck. I know. I tried.
 
VERY nice.
are you changing the deck or keeping it as is?

Yup, it makes me happy. A simple flat deck would be more practicle, but this deck is so very well done. It's way too nice to get rid of. It's got a Trailer Saver air ride 5th hitch on it. and 575 liter fuel tanks, dual back-up cams (one for the bumper hitch, one for the 5th wheel hitch), gooseneck ball, rear/top/side work lights, lights in the tool boxes... it. is. nice. All on the Laramie package, deletes, tuner, and that big Aisin auto. Some air bag rear suspension and this might be the perfect highway hauler.

I want to be able to drive a truck up on the deck. It's 12' overall, with 8' of 'Flat Deck'. I might be able to build some ramps to drive up on the deck, which might work out for me. We'll see.
 
On Saturday, Lowenbrau, Shaker, Awltec and RedDiesel helped me lift the body off. I cut the top off, then lifted off the remaining body. Then sawed off the firewall to keep that, possibly for a future LHD conversion, maybe.

Bare Frame, and checking some of the traditionally rusty frame spots. It's a bit crusty, but nowhere near as bad as some frames I've seen.

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Frame continues to look to be in usable condition.
Yes, those are Belton lift springs and OME Nitro Charger Shocks. For sale, I suppose, if anyone wants them.
Back in 2001, when Shaker, Lowenbrau and I were launching Prairie Dog Parts, we bought a few different springs from Australia to test out and decide what product we wanted to resell here. Zippo got the Belton springs, which we decided to sell. So, this is the very first ever set of Belton springs in Canada, as far as I know...

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Driveline Removed on Monday evening.

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Engine Position

Before I removed the engine, I measured the location of the back of the head relative to some land marks on the frame. With a straight edge across the back of the head, the head is 50mm in front of the leading edge of the left hand cab mount, and the 85mm in front of the right hand cab mount. I am measuring to the forward most point where the body mount touches the frame. This should help with initial positioning of the Cummins in the frame.

Next is to strip the remaining parts from the frame, and cut off all the brackets not needed - i.e. driveline and suspension mounts, and to lop off the rear frame rails in anticipation of new frame rails for the custom deck.
 
Rear Frame Cut

I will cut the rear frame as shown below.
I will leave in the two shock holding cross members to the keep the frame square for now, but may remove them later if they interfere with the new suspension or anything else.

I want to cut it where it flattens out, and then build new rails straight out the back for as long as needed. That will be easy to build, and easy to build decks onto it, and build tanks to attach to it, and such.

I will cut it at the steepest angle I can.. up to 45 degrees, but the exact positioning of the cross member and flat spot will dictate final angle. my belief is that the angle cut will spread out the welded surface area and be stronger somehow. I don't know if there is any science to back that up, but it feels right.

Any advice on cutting/splicing frames? I looked at what c2dFJ45 did on his 'Just another 79 Build thread.... Looks great.

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Coming along rather quickly Peter. Glad to see suck progress.
 
Why not cut the frame behind the rear spring perch? I think it would be ultimately stronger, and no worries of fatigue. Unless your suspension is changing enough to not matter.
 
I'm with you Peter cut the frame at an angle near a 45 degree cut. The angle cut will give a longer weld and spread the load. How about sleeving 300 mm or so inside where the cut is for some added insurance?

Even better radius cuts like that guy did. I like how the outer c shape lines the cut frame ends up. image-3125282904.webp

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Discussion: Winches

So.... winches.

My attitude towards winches has changed dramatically over the years. I used to think that winches on the front of the truck were for long hard pulls through the mud. After being involved in trail stewardship over the past 10 years, I now believe that winches on the front are for short carefull pulls over rocks/obstacles, and winching back onto your wheels. An electric is a good candidate for that business. There are some long hard mud-winching pulls that are legitimate, but those should be the very rare exceptions, not what you design the winch around.

The Cummins combo ZF offers some interesting Hydraulic options. The Cummins uses a gear drive power steering pump. It could be upgraded to a bigger pump with some fabrication. A belt drive Hydraulic Pump on a clutch is also a possibility, especially since I've decided to forgo Air Conditioning, and will not be using the A/C position on the engine.

The ZF has dual PTO ouputs, one on each side of the transmission. Unlike the Transfer case mounted Land Cruiser PTO's, the ZF PTO is driven off the transmission counter shaft, and is therefore unaffected by gear selection and as long as the clutch is engaged, will spin with engine speed. Perfect for a rear hydralic application, I think.


Front Winch:
I think that the trusty old 8274 might be the ticket for the front. Independent control of winch/engine/driveline for careful extraction on difficult obstacles. Can operate independant of engine for roll-over recovery.

Rear winch:
A winch on the rear is for pulling your front end out of the Mud that you should probably not drive through, or winching your buddy up the hill that he can't make up under his own power. A hydraulic or PTO is a good candidate for that business.

Does this sound like a good plan?
 

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