Pertronix or Full Electronic Distributor

[Xander77]

If the ballast is to protect the points then if using a Pertronix unit the ballast would be unnecessary?

No, the ignitor is a good thing that should be maintained. Why bypass a functioning ignitor? (Rhetorical question, no answer needed.) Do remember to disconnect the condenser when connecting to the ignitor.

My igniter was falling apart so i took it out based on what i have been reading the last few weeks. what are the consequences of doing so?

 

[GA Architect]

@FJ40Jim
Regarding the igniter, there was a thread here that suggests disconnecting the igniter wires (Sorry @GA Architect if I'm mistaken). Is there another approach?

I think Jim could be talking about keeping the igniter for the new points dizzy you offer....but I could be wrong? Lord knows, it sure wouldn't be the first, second or thousandth time I've made an error.

The thread you reference is for removing my OEM points dizzy for a new electronic dizzy, as well as keeping my original coil with the top mounted igniter pack. I wonder if an igniter for a points dizzy would play fair with an electronic dizzy?

FWIW: I followed the instructions I was given on how to wire in a new electronic distributor, and put it in writing for others.

 

[Steamer]

8 months ago I went from Pertronix to Performance Distributors DUI.
Here's why. Giving up on Pertronix.

 

[FJ40Jim]

@FJ40Jim
As an example, SOR states (for the small cap):
OEM VACUUM ADVANCE DISTRIBUTOR -
... For 9/71-8/87 vehicles must purchase ignition coil with internal or external ballast resistor...
Is this valid for 61180? I.e. you either use a 90919-02015 or equivalent coil with internal resistor, or keep the external ballast if present.

No, there is not a valid requirement to purchase a new coil when swapping out a dissy.
If the dissy is bad, replace dissy. If coil is bad, replace coil.
And normal coils do not have internal resistors.

Regarding the igniter, there was a thread here that suggests disconnecting the igniter wires (Sorry @GA Architect if I'm mistaken). Is there another approach?

That's not an approach?

Again, if the dissy is bad, replace it. No need to do anything to the igniter.

@FJ40Jim
Thanks very much for your comments.

You're welcome. I'm glad somebody read something I posted.

If the ballast is to protect the points then if using a Pertronix unit the ballast would be unnecessary?

The ballast cuts down the voltage to the coil to keep it from overheating. When the engine is cranking, there is circuitry that bypasses the ballast and applies full battery voltage to the coil to increase spark strength for starting a cold engine. The ballast protects the coil from melting down.

My igniter was falling apart so i took it out based on what i have been reading the last few weeks. what are the consequences of doing so?

When the ignitor is working properly, it does the heavy electrical work of switching the coil on & off thousands of times per minute. On 75-77 USA or 74-77 Cali Cruisers the distributor has a set of points that provide the timing signal to the ignitor, but the points carry none of the electrical load for the coil, so the points last practically forever. Bypassing the ignitor means less timing accuracy, more misfires, more frequent points replacement...

On the plus side, removing a physically damaged ignitor might increase reliability.

Are you sure the ignitor was falling apart? It is a sturdy metal box with 5 wires coming out of it.

 

[Pin_Head]

No positive effect. When cranking, it is hard to get a spark, so adding load to the spark system by increasing the gap is bad. The minimum gap for making full power (~.030" for a naturally aspirated engine) is optimal. Increasing the gap above that has negative consequences, such as:
shorter coil life due to heat
shorter resistance plug wire life due to heat
increased risk of spark leakage due to higher voltage
shorter cap & rotor life due to higher voltage...

Amen!


Until you get in to drag racing with your 2F and running it above 6,500 RPM and supercharged, turbocharged or nitromethane fuel, it doesn’t really matter much which distributor/igniter/coil you use. They are all good if they are working normally.

 

[1969FJ]

And normal coils do not have internal resistors

Coils do not have internal resistors but they do have varying primary resistance. From Pertronix;

 

[Racer65]

Dang, I would've paid for today's lesson. Looks like the igniter is worth its weight in gold. Now I'm wondering why even bother with Pertronix. Simply drop in a new OEM points dizzy. Leave the coil alone. Leave the igniter alone. Keep the original clamp. Nothing else to buy or mod!

 

[1969FJ]

I run a 1969 with all original stuff , except I removed the points and installed pertronix. 8 years and never a fail. Coil is original from 1969.

 

[Pin_Head]

“Flame Thrower

Blah blah blah

Blah Blah

Blah added power and better fuel economy.”


This is just marketing hype to get you to waste your money.

 

[thebigredrocker]

“Flame Thrower

Blah blah blah

Blah Blah

Blah added power and better fuel economy.”


This is just marketing hype to get you to waste your money.

Interesting. I first hooked up Pertronix 1 with an old ND coil. Good lord did that ever wake up the old 71 F. A couple weeks later I decided the fancy new Flamethrower would surely be even better. I’m pretty certain my rig had more giddy-up with the ND coil. Still ran like a champ with the Flamethrower, the ND coil will be re-installed when the ol’ girl makes her spring debut

 

[Pin_Head]

You just rediscovered confirmation bias.

If you had measured power on a dyno or by accurately measuring your 0-60 times, you would have been disappointed.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

I read that as he became aware of potential confirmation bias, but overcame it. he plans to switch back to the better Nippondenso coil

 

[Xander77]

So if you have a Pertronix ignitor then you don't need the original stock ignitor?
I just bought a new 19100-61180 dizzy and was going to add the pertronix II ignitor. Keep stock coil and resistor and removed stock ignitor. Will this be a stable/reliable setup?

8 months ago I went from Pertronix to Performance Distributors DUI.
Here's why. Giving up on Pertronix.

how has it been working for you so far?

 

[FJ40Jim]

Looks like the igniter is worth its weight in gold. Now I'm wondering why even bother with Pertronix.

Pertronix should be used to upgrade a conventional points ignition to an electronic ignition.
Pertronix should not be used to downgrade from the reliable Denso ignitor system.

 

[Steamer]

[QUOTE="Xander77, how has it been working for you so far?[/QUOTE]

The DUI is working fine. Reliability was #1 for me. I like that it's new and parts are interchangeable with GM and available at most any auto parts store. It fit without changing the side cover. 8 months is still kind of new, so time will tell.

 

[emac]

When I rebuilt my 77, I bought an electronic ignition from Trollhole that is a drop in OEM replacement. Cost was reasonable. By passed the ignitor, kept original coil, and it has been great for about 3K miles. This just seemed like a no brainer for me, but my rig had a terrible Delco-Remy conversion so I had to buy a new dizzy.

A couple of good threads and some help from @GA Architect to bypass ignitor and it worked great. Just make sure the dizzy is seated all the way!!

 

[Xander77]

Are you sure the ignitor was falling apart? It is a sturdy metal box with 5 wires coming out of it.

this part is attached to the igniter so i assume it is apart of it. the connections are breaking off and it is cracked falling apart. (sets between ballast resistor and ignitor)

 

[Racer65]

Pertronix should be used to upgrade a conventional points ignition to an electronic ignition.
Pertronix should not be used to downgrade from the reliable Denso ignitor system.

Would 61180 be able to fill in for the 78 to 80 with semi-electronic / electronic ignition?

 

[1969FJ]

“Flame Thrower

Blah blah blah

Blah Blah

Blah added power and better fuel economy.”


This is just marketing hype to get you to waste your money.

Actually, there is a reason for different primary coil resistance's. ( Should be measured with a waveform , oscilloscope. ) It depends on the actual TOTAL SYATEM you have on the vehicle. One good answer is below.

 

[FJ40Jim]

this part is attached to the igniter so i assume it is apart of it. the connections are breaking off and it is cracked falling apart. (sets between ballast resistor and ignitor)

View attachment 1659057

That's the ballast resistor for the ignitor, and maybe also for the coil. The ballast layout changes every year of the semi-electronic ignition. It is not part of the Ignitor as such, and can be replaced with another used one or new aftermarket parts w/ minor mods.

Would 61180 be able to fill in for the 78 to 80 with semi-electronic / electronic ignition?
View attachment 1659105 View attachment 1659106

No, the 78-newer USA trucks use fully electronic ignition. A points dissy does not provide the right signal to trigger that style ignitor.