paul dinapoli - H55 swap thread (2 Viewers)

[Paul DiNapoli]

yeah - the 4-lo shift rod that connects the A440 to the transfer case is too long - cuz the automatic is like a mile long... so yep - gotta cut the linkage and glue it back together / sleeve it - build a new one - whatever your flavor - I had to find a way to make it work.

my solution was to have a machinist friend help me cut the long straight section of the shift rod - we sleeved it and attached the end with roll pins and a sleeve.

this is the auto out of my rig - day 1 of swap.

and later - after i'd successfully bolted in the new 5 speed / t-case kit ... this is what we came up with to get 4-lo working: i didnt want to have to recreate the geometry of the bend in the shift rod - so to keep it simple i cut the rod after that factory elbow/bend in the rod

since i have access to a bridgeport mill...we just took that threaded end - sleeved it back to the main length of rod - just in front of that elbow. this way I was not having to figure out multiple angles / bends / pivot points, etc...

out of all the problems to solve doing this swap - the 4-lo thing is pretty easy in that there's a lot of ways you could get the job done. i didnt have access to my tig welder at the time cuz my garage didnt have 220 power for the welder.

i suppose you could cut off the yoke thing with the keeper pin at the t-case end and just re-weld or even gas braze that back together.

this is the factory setup before I cut anything - it looks brazed to me. or you could get some bar stock - heat/bend it to shape - make a brand new one and cut threads onto the end.

many ways to get there - but ultimately - the stock a440/t-case rod is too long and I seem to recall cutting out maybe 6 inches?

 

[Skniper]

Gotcha. You mentioned back in your thread that the sleeve method you guys machined may have been too long. Sounds like it worked for you. So no need to revise?

 

[Paul DiNapoli]

Gotcha. You mentioned back in your thread that the sleeve method you guys machined may have been too long. Sounds like it worked for you. So no need to revise?

good reader!!

I did have to revise - i had to shorten the back section a bit as well - and sleeve that section too. i dont love the fact that I have 2 splices in the whole thing...but my friend put some time and love into this this kit

he literally made that from some solid bar stock stainless steel so I didnt have the heart to just toss that out and start over....so i cut another section out of the other end and did this same sleeve technique on the other end. if i'd had 220 in my garage i would have just cut & re-welded it

 

[WSOPgold2012]

good reader!!

I did have to revise - i had to shorten the back section a bit as well - and sleeve that section too. i dont love the fact that I have 2 splices in the whole thing...but my friend put some time and love into this this kit
View attachment 2267096
he literally made that from some solid bar stock stainless steel so I didnt have the heart to just toss that out and start over....so i cut another section out of the other end and did this same sleeve technique on the other end. if i'd had 220 in my garage i would have just cut & re-welded it

Looking to do this soon...ish. Thanks for the write up altho, MInes a '87 4 speed + believe it to be an easier swap. Jus started my research as to what parts ill need.... Are you still enjoying the switch? Better MPG? Thanks!

 

[Paul DiNapoli]

Looking to do this soon...ish. Thanks for the write up altho, MInes a '87 4 speed + believe it to be an easier swap. Jus started my research as to what parts ill need.... Are you still enjoying the switch? Better MPG? Thanks!

you're very lucky - swapping a 4 speed for a 5 speed... what's the big deal it's just another gear!! is your 87 gearbox already with that spacer at the back? you might not even have to change the rear drive line.

the 5 speed swap into the 62 is a total game changer - the automatic is horrid. just horrid. with a manual gearbox the 3FE feels downright sporty! (ok - maybe not - but almost)
i dont think i noticed much of an MPG change...if there was - it was like 14.8 to 15.2... nothing you'd bother with worrying about. someday soon she'll get a 1HDT then we can talk fuel range and hill climbing power. some day!!

 

[orangefj45]

Looking to do this soon...ish. Thanks for the write up altho, MInes a '87 4 speed + believe it to be an easier swap. Jus started my research as to what parts ill need.... Are you still enjoying the switch? Better MPG? Thanks!

You have the "easy" swap; all you'll need is the trans, t-case rebuild kit and 5th gear oiler along with the trans shift lever and knob.

We typically have all of these items in stock, happy to help.

Georg

 

[onemanarmy]

@Paul DiNapoli Do you remember what year your trans crossmember is that you installed? Did you use the H55F rubber trans mount with the flat feet?

 

[Paul DiNapoli]

Do you remember what year your trans crossmember is that you installed? Did you use the H55F rubber trans mount with the flat feet?

cross member was from an 85-87 year FJ60.

this is my trans mount - I got it along with bell housing and other parts from a mud member.

i feel like this thing is still available from toyota?

this is what it looks like under my truck. the 85/87 range cross member is one piece that is built to work with the clocked bellhousing and has room for the front prop shaft to angle down toward the front diff.

dont quote me on this - but i think the earlier year 60's cross member was the 3 piece kit...but you can't/shouldn't try to mix n match these parts and expect it all to work.

 

[onemanarmy]

What you have installed looks like the crossmember mounting bolts/studs are vertical towards the ground.

The pic of the part you posted has angled studs.

I have a H55 behind a 5.3 in my FJ62, and I'm trying to figure out replacement parts.....someone else did the swap and I need a new crossmember and trans mount.

Thanks

 

[Paul DiNapoli]

What you have installed looks like the crossmember mounting bolts/studs are vertical towards the ground.

The pic of the part you posted has angled studs.

I have a H55 behind a 5.3 in my FJ62, and I'm trying to figure out replacement parts.....someone else did the swap and I need a new crossmember and trans mount.

Thanks

good catch on that...i grabbed that image off a google search. I got my parts from mud member @3_puppies he seems to often have used parts...might be worth a shot. also could try Georg: @orangefj45

i swear somewhere in one of these forum posts I saw the transmission mount in a photo inside the toyota OEM bag...like maybe they're still available new?

 

[onemanarmy]

good catch on that...i grabbed that image off a google search. I got my parts from mud member @3_puppies he seems to often have used parts...might be worth a shot. also could try Georg: @orangefj45

i swear somewhere in one of these forum posts I saw the transmission mount in a photo inside the toyota OEM bag...like maybe they're still available new?

I did some quick research and found that the H55 mount looked very similar to what I currently have, so I ordered a new one from partsouq. It's on the way. I'll find out. Also, when I was under the truck, I noticed that the crossemember I have is in rough shape, bent and corroded, so I figured I'd track down a good used one and swap it out with the new mount. I just need to know what year range to look for....looking like late FJ60 models.

Thanks

 

[EscapeWagon62]

Here are the two setups
Early is “notched” later crossmember is flat.
Each has its own isolator/transmission mount.
You base the combination based on early or late model bell housing.
The later bellhousing/crossmember/isolator setup is what I installed and it puts the stickshift in the perfect place.

 

[Cruiserjosh]

Paul thanks for this write up man it’s greatly appreciated! I’m about to perform this swap on my 62 here in a few weeks as well as replace the 3F with a lower mileage resealed and repainted 3F. Wondering if it would be easier to bolt the H55 to the motor and swing it all in at the same time or do separately so I can mock up he cross member? Also where did you source the clutch flex line? Thanks brother

 

[Paul DiNapoli]

Paul thanks for this write up man it’s greatly appreciated! I’m about to perform this swap on my 62 here in a few weeks as well as replace the 3F with a lower mileage resealed and repainted 3F. Wondering if it would be easier to bolt the H55 to the motor and swing it all in at the same time or do separately so I can mock up he cross member? Also where did you source the clutch flex line? Thanks brother

oh man! - if you're doing an engine swap anyway, assuming you have the whole front radiator support out of the way - I would think mating up the gearbox to the engine first..then installing it all fully assembled would be a lot easier.

I wouldnt worry too much about the mock up of the cross member. you're gonna bolt that to the bottom of the gearbox with the transmission mount... it's kinda locates itself since there's really only one place it lands. then you bolt some heavy L metal ears to your frame, drill & tap, bolt it all up - then have a shop burn them in if you're not able to weld yourself.


Also where did you source the clutch flex line?
hydraulic line shop here in portland. vague name " oil filter service" but they make all manner of industrial hydraulic hoses...so i explained to them that i wanted a flexible stainless hydraulic clutch line and they just made one up for me.

you're close enough to a major metro area there's bound to be some kind of hydraulic hose shop.

this is the shop I used...they changed names but they're still there. i dont know if they ship parts - holler if you need help getting one to you.

Les Hall Filter (Formerly Oil Filter Service) · 615 SE Market St, Portland, OR 97214

âââââ · Industrial equipment supplier

maps.app.goo.gl

 

[3_puppies]

@Cruiserjosh
the engine, trans and transfer combo is a very heavy unit, your basic engine hoist will be overloaded and tough to maneuver

 

[Cruiserjosh]

@Cruiserjosh
the engine, trans and transfer combo is a very heavy unit, your basic engine hoist will be overloaded and tough to maneuver

Copy that! My neighbor has a forklift we’ll be using, so should make things way easier and safer!

 

[Cruiserjosh]

oh man! - if you're doing an engine swap anyway, assuming you have the whole front radiator support out of the way - I would think mating up the gearbox to the engine first..then installing it all fully assembled would be a lot easier.

I wouldnt worry too much about the mock up of the cross member. you're gonna bolt that to the bottom of the gearbox with the transmission mount... it's kinda locates itself since there's really only one place it lands. then you bolt some heavy L metal ears to your frame, drill & tap, bolt it all up - then have a shop burn them in if you're not able to weld yourself.


Also where did you source the clutch flex line?
hydraulic line shop here in portland. vague name " oil filter service" but they make all manner of industrial hydraulic hoses...so i explained to them that i wanted a flexible stainless hydraulic clutch line and they just made one up for me.

you're close enough to a major metro area there's bound to be some kind of hydraulic hose shop.

this is the shop I used...they changed names but they're still there. i dont know if they ship parts - holler if you need help getting one to you.

Les Hall Filter (Formerly Oil Filter Service) · 615 SE Market St, Portland, OR 97214

âââââ · Industrial equipment supplier

maps.app.goo.gl

Thanks for the response brother! I’ll have the radiator and upper support out as well as the hood off so I’ll pull the old with the 440 out in one shot and put the new back in the same way with the H55! Thanks for the info on the clutch line I’ll look into that. I have a used hard line from a later 60 but I’m not a fan of trying to route in into position being that it’s a hard line. Also I’d just rather have something new and fresh.

 

[Cruiserjosh]

assembly

Hey Paul I’m curious why you had to separate this from the pedal bucket? Did you utilize your existing pedal bucket from the 62 and add the small clutch portion?

 

[toy_tek]

Hey Paul I’m curious why you had to separate this from the pedal bucket? Did you utilize your existing pedal bucket from the 62 and add the small clutch portion?

If I can respond here, thanks to Paul's thread I did the same thing just a few days ago. Yes the 60 clutch bucket is bolted to the existing 62 pedal bucket. This option prevents the need to tear the dash apart, and only took me about 20 minutes after I got under the steering wheel. I used the clutch pedal bolt to hold the clutch bucket in place, and used a flex wand with threaded drill bit to drill (4) 1/4" holes (no need to use the top tab) and used some 6mm hardware I had to attach the clutch portion to the existing bucket. Super solid. It's a slick option, but I'm not sure how someone could drill the holes accurately without a super low profile drill attachment. Hope this helps. Thanks @Paul DiNapoli for the tip.

 

[Cruiserjosh]

If I can respond here, thanks to Paul's thread I did the same thing just a few days ago. Yes the 60 clutch bucket is bolted to the existing 62 pedal bucket. This option prevents the need to tear the dash apart, and only took me about 20 minutes after I got under the steering wheel. I used the clutch pedal bolt to hold the clutch bucket in place, and used a flex wand with threaded drill bit to drill (4) 1/4" holes (no need to use the top tab) and used some 6mm hardware I had to attach the clutch portion to the existing bucket. Super solid. It's a slick option, but I'm not sure how someone could drill the holes accurately without a super low profile drill attachment. Hope this helps. Thanks @Paul DiNapoli for the tip.


View attachment 3613186
View attachment 3613187
View attachment 3613188

Good stuff! I was so not looking forward to pulling the dash apart. Thank you sir!